Chateau de Pierrefonds - France - / L´Instant Durable / 1:250 [Fertig]

    They were large enough that I thougt they would hold their shape when glued up. Boy, was I wrong! I had four in place when I noticed that their sides had caved in. This often happens when placing dormers on a sloped roof. Either this or the side walls splay outward.


    I should have known better. Here is a tip that keeps the sidewalls of dormers parallel. Cut a strip of light card the width of the dormer longer than needed. Glue the sides of the strip and slide the strip up under the side wall tabs of the dormer. While gently applying pressure between thumb and forefinger, pinch the tabs to the glued strip with a pair of long nosed pliers. Then snip off the extra bit of the strip extending beyond the front wall of the dormer. You can see the light strip behind the tabs in this shot...


    Note: This technique is described with photos on page two of the St. Michaelis build


    For very small dormers, check out page three of the Reims Cathedral build

    Oh, please, John, you should adorn the reference to the other thread with a link for direct access... It's so nice whenever people take care to do that, and the more who do so, the more useful the site becomes.


    You know how to do it, of course? (And this is for everybody):


    + The general form for a link to a single post can be copied from any post, such as this one, or see below.


    + The post-id for the specific post (not just thread) you will attempt to make a reference to can be had by letting the cursor rest over the "bearbeiten" button. Remember the figures, and insert in the general formula for a link in the two relevant places.


    I looked it up, and in this case the post-id of the post you wish to refer to is 51845. So the full link would be:


    http://www.kartonbau.de/wbb2/t…hp?postid=51845#post51845


    + Use the link button in the message composition section, or write it like this, using the formula text you wish to link). Inserted into your text it would look like this:


    This technique is described with photos on page two of the St. Michaelis build


    Your tip is too good to go ignored, just because it is a little bit difficult to find!


    Leif


    PS. I "disabled BBCode" in this message (you will find that under "Options" in the message compositon section) in order to demonstrate how to write it, which means the link doesn't work in this post. Perhaps you will "bearbeit" your own post and add a live link there...

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    Thanks Leif,
    I added your suggested string to the post above and it worked! I will contact you via PM and question you on the process some more.


    PS. I have now added another link in the dormer post to Reims Cathedral.


    John

    Edited once, last by John ().

    Well, you did it, didn't you, and on your own - good job, and so useful for the rest of us.


    In response to your queries by PN, this might be of interest also to others. So what you do, is this:


    1. Writing your post, you wish to make a link. First, look up the post you wish to refer to. Place your cursor over the "Bearbeiten" button, and read out what it says (probably in a small window running along the bottom of your browser window). Jot down the 5-figure number (or from today 6-figure number!) occuring there among other mumbo-jumbo. In your original case it was "51845". That is the id-number of the individual post you wish to link to.


    2. Somewhere on your hard disc, in a convenient note or something, store this line:


    http://www.kartonbau.de/wbb2/t…?postid=XXXXXX#postXXXXXX


    3. Back to the message you are busy writing. If you wish to link a bit of tex (like the preceding five words), select them, and press the button of a link above your message-writing window. What happens is this:


    a) You are asked wheter "link a bit of text" is the text you wish to create a link from. Click OK.


    b) You are asked to fill out the line "http://". Erase that text, and paste the line you have stored somewhere (http://www.kartonbau.de/wbb2/t…?postid=XXXXXX#postXXXXXX). In that line change XXXXXX in two places to the number you identified earlier (the post you wished to link to). Click OK.


    Your are now done. The text you have written will now look like this (and I repeat paragraph "3." above:


    3. Back to the message you are busy writing. If you wish to link a bit of text (like the preceding five words), select them, and press the button of a link above your message-writing window.


    This sounds very cumbersome. But mostly it works like a charm, and you (meaning each and everyone reading this) will eventually work out shortcuts.


    The extra work involved is well worth the effort, since it is so useful for everybody else reading your post. People will thank you, each and everyone at their own computer. And your threads will be a pleasure to read.

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    The first little building atop the next wall begged a photo. I am beginning to recognize classic French rooflines.
    Note that the roof I am interested in photographing is not in focus. I have always wanted to play around with f-stops to create interesting depth of field shots. This one came by chance. I must have focused on the octagonal tower.

    When I started this model, I noticed that on the front and back cover photos of the L'Instant Durable book, the tops of some of the towers were not seated properly. The lines showing where the triangular tabs of the machicolation roofs should land were exposed. They resemble sharks teeth.


    Knowing this, I went to great pains to avoid exposing them. As indicated in this thread, I painted them with opaque gouache paint or ran a coloured band of paper around the tower.


    Then I hit upon this idea. Why not cut the bottom of the little tower off 2mm or so? Then it could slide like a piston up and down to line up with the line running around the tower.


    Here is the bottom to the upper tower reduced by 2mm...

    And you leave us hangning there, again... ! You master of keeping the suspense. - L.

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    Here is the result. It's not glued in place, but the theory worked. It probably is not touching the top of the lower tower for base support, but that's all right. If I run a bead of glue around the 'shark's teeth', I will be able to slide the upper tower up and down and twist it a couple of times to coat the walls of the tower and slide it into place.

    There are 15 dormers on the northeast roof of this castle. That's 155 folds and nearly as many edges to be coloured. I notice in many cover photos of early architectural models, edge colouring was not always done. This deficiency is quite noticable. If you build paper models and intend to just cut and bend the edges of the paper, seriously consider colouring the edges. It's well worth the effort.


    Here's a shot of a dormer roof unpainted. The white is very noticable against the deep blue of the roof material.

    While on the topic of dormers, you must look at this nice detail. Notice in the picture below, that there are three notches in the leading edge of the roof. They are designed to lock into the facade of the dormer. The central one straddles the finial and the other two lock the gable end in place.


    This makes it very easy to position the roof accurately. You also get a nice overhanging edge at the soffit.


    Nice attention to detail here...

    Hello John,


    Just lovley and beautyful your work. =D> =D> =D>


    Also Superb Pictures.

    Heinz Michlmair verstarb am 05.07.2007 bei einem Sportunfall in Ungarn. Mitglieder und Betreiber von kartonbau.de vermissen Heinz und seine Beiträge. Seine bisherigen Beiträge in unserem Forum sind nun Teil unser Erinnerung an "Heinz".

    Thanks gentlemen. Appreciate the feedback.


    Here is a whimsical shot. Caesar Tower is huge! I put it in the courtyard of Chateau de Chaumont to make the point.


    Had some trouble with the watch tower on this one. It, along with its staircase tower, proved quite challenging. Came close to losing them both.


    John

    Oh, I like that perspective - very sort of foreboding. One imagines some thunder clouds in the background. For some reason.


    The landscape on the Chamont is actually quite nice - unpretentious, since you know it isn't trying to be naturalistic, more impressionistic, like the model itself.


    L.

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    Very perceptive comments Leif. You've captured the essance of what I try to maintain in the models! You will recall our discussion about the paper trees on the Hohenzollern build.


    I could not have expressed it better. Thank you. May I quote you?


    As to the tone of the photo. I agree. I like the sombre darkness. Happenstance rather than good planning. The lighting, although some might say insufficient, really does make the tower ominous and dominating.


    Thanks for picking up on this Leif.


    J.L.

    Hi John,


    Great job. :super: :super:


    It is the question if such modell would look better with trees and bushes create by a non paper material.


    On one hand, it´s a Paper modell, On the other Hand it´s a high detailed archetecure modell and I do think it is allowed to brush up the modell with non-paper tress an such stuff.


    But it´s allways your turn what you descide to do.


    Anyhow the outcome of you effort is great.


    Thank you for the report and the pictures.


    greatings from Vienna, Herbert

    Here's a tip specifically for anyone attempting to build this model. The design calls for tabs, as seen here, to be glued to the back of the walls. I have found them a hindrence to good building. They tend to either bulge out the walls as you attempt to glue them to the walls, or the glue on them telegraphs through the thin paper. In either case, the smooth clean, flat wall is interrupted by these tabs. It 'breaks' the plane surface in other words.


    The next photo shows my solution...

    First, as you could easily guess, I reinforce the wall with card. Next, I cut off the tab with about 1.5 mm of coutyard. This lets the wall pass by the courtyard. It is uninterrupted.


    In this photo, you can see the remaining strip of coutyard between the two towers, and the reinforced wall running down uninterrupted.


    I think losing the tabs in this sutuation, makes applying the walls between the towers much easier.

    John,


    this method ist exactly what I would have made to inforce large walls. Cut off all unnecessary tabs. But as they are gone, you now have the chance to give some glue behind, like you would weld these pieces together with a string of glue. Nobody sees it, and it gives additional stability and security. Al least that's what I am doing most of the time (and that's why I am using 150% of glue like I normally should...).
    Well built so far, I should add. As expected.


    Best regards from
    [Blocked Image: http://www.pielawa.de/bilder/jenssign.gif]

    Um ein tadelloses Mitglied einer Schafherde sein zu können, muss man vor allem ein Schaf sein. — Albert Einstein

    Hi Jens.
    Thanks. We work in much the same manner. Here's another shot of the reinforced wall running on down to the base between the towers. No tab. I like your term 'weld' when you refer to a bead of glue between two reinforced parts. It works.


    In this shot you can also see the beginnings of the keep. The first two walls are sitting unglued on the courtyard to test the fit. You can see the entrance tunnel through the hole in the back wall.