Revenge / Shipyard / 1:96
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First: I am a male - that was bug :). I am learning this (for me a new) board system and some mistakes occoured.
Second and important: On the picture is NOT my Revenge - I have attached this picture from my archive becouse there exist no image, no drawing and no photograph of real Revenge.
I have bought the Shipyard Revenge model just week ago and now I am cutting frames and keel. But it is not my very first paper model - I am from The Czech Republic, so I have built plenty models from our journal ABC - ship Arizona and some German armors for example.
I try to fill my profile informations.
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dobry den,
hi Radek, nice to see you! Twice the week I`m in CR by profession, but only in the western part: Marianske Lazne, Chodova plana and Touzim, sometimes Plzen.
I would like to see you building the Revenge, because I´ve never seen such an old model in paper, and how to build it, I´ve problems with the new onesRadek, I know, you´ve had a free day today, hoping you´ve had used it
Have a great weekend
Edi -
Hallo!
I have found some minor bugs in frames.First: There is no need to cut openings in frame nr. XIII and nr. XV. Visible parts of these frames will be covered by parts 33 and 34 respectively - with no openings!
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... and second: If you want to build open deck hatchech you should cut off part of nr. VII.
Radek
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So, I have made framework - dry, without glue so far.
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and second photo. You can see that I have cut uselessly openings in frames nr. XIII and XV. Moreover frame nr. VII has full hight still.
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Zdarec na Hanó Radku, za
íná to pkn - budu sledovat.Kósek od Brna zdraví Bernie
Translation - my welcome to neighbour from Czech Rep.
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Thanks to all.
It seems I am not only one Czech modeller here:). That's good!Now I am working on guns - theoretically. ALL pictures and photos in the Shipyard documentation are of INCOMPLETE ship! That's terrible. I have to find where to place guns and corresponding lafets before I glue the framework...
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Hello Radek!
Nice to see another fine czech modeller here. You are not so far away from Austria, Vienna - next neighbour at all.
As I also want to build a historical ship one day, I read your reports with great interesting.Servus
Josef
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As I wrote, I was working on gun barrels and carriages placement yesterday. It was not very obvious neither from the instructions or from the pictures, so I had to use photos of the Revenge of the "unknown modeller" and some naval history internet pages concerning armament of my ship. I sketched a scheme, but still I can not find positions of two guns nr. 283.
Moreover - I made decission not to use preprinted lafets and barrels but made it my own way. I hope I could send first photos this evening.
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Quote
Originally posted by fuchsjos
Hello Radek!Nice to see another fine czech modeller here. You are not so far away from Austria, Vienna - next neighbour at all.
As I also want to build a historical ship one day, I read your reports with great interesting.Servus
Josef
Hello Josef
I think it would be quite simple for you - I have seen your ISU-152 and it looks really outstanding!
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I have glued some carriages so you can judge it :).
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The next step will be barrels. Picture below shows their appearance and proper numbers of carriages.
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... and new guns ...
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Great looking cannons - trust that paint will make them real-looking
quote:
Originally posted by fuchsjos
Hello Radek!Nice to see another fine czech modeller here. You are not so far away from Austria, Vienna - next neighbour at all.
As I also want to build a historical ship one day, I read your reports with great interesting.Servus
Josef
Josef - trust that can meet you on Papirove Kralovstvi 2006 Brno /Paper Kingdom Show/ - on 25th February 2006 /details will follow later as separate note/
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Hi, Radek!
An outstanding building thread! =D> =D> =D>
I am thoroughly enjoying your discussion and photographs on this build. I am sure this is going to be an outstanding model, and look forward to your further updates.
Cheers!
Jim
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Next stage - glued framework with "red" stripes. This photo looks quite successfully but I have to do many little corrections and sanding.
And I work on guns still. It will be very lenghty and tedious...
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... still working on guns. Just now drilling peg holes.
(Barel is made from 0,5mm wood (bambus), wraped by paper. Diameter about 2mm. Drill diam. 0,4 mm)
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I have finished first sets of guns.
From left side to right:
heavy gun for lower decks - carriages will be near fully covered
stern gun - top of wheels will be visible
rest - main deck guns -
detailed photos
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The next step will be gun tackles.
BTW: Do you have any practical experience with making blocks or tackles? Should be made of paper (carton) or of massive wood.
OK, from PAPER, surely :), but I am very afraid of stiffness of blocks.And second - ropes (wires): Do you have experience with home made ropes (ropewalk machine) ? Or do you use bought whipcords?
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...and another set of guns.
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...
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Hallo Radek,
You do a fantastic detailing work!
congratulations!=D> =D> =D>
Greetings Friedulin
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Hi!
I need to trot out - I have obtained (after VERY long waiting and duty (Zoll) problems solving) new book from Amazon today. It isThe Anatomy of NELSON'S SHIPS from C Nepean Longridge
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... so my sailing ship book collection looks like this now
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Michael, I did not said my ropes will be self-made - but I want TRY IT.
I have found pictures of ropewalks made by (wood)ship modeller from wood or from LEGO - so I bought 4V engine and sprockets, made shafts and now I try to put it together
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Inspired by my new book and rkelterer's Bounty I have made decission to built gun tackles.
Not all, of course - only visible. So the total number of them is about 30. -
Model size:
total lengh of tackle 12mm
block proportions 2 x 1 x 1 mm -
..
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hi radek,
very interresting - your approach to build the blocks with the ropes together - a perfect solution for short connections or connections where you exactly know the distance between the blocks. what kind of wire do you use to form the hooks ?
greetings from austria
raimund -
Raimund:
The first attempt was to build blocks - 2x1x1mm with 0.3mm holes. (I have pictures of these - if you don't believe ). But it was impossible to lace the thread through.ad wire: It is common cuprum wire from electric flex. I'll take some pictures of formig hooks - this evening, I hope.
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Aw, no sheaves???
Seriously, exceptional job, Radek! I love your technique for stropping the blocks and running the thread for the gun tackles. They came out very well!
Your cannon look great too!
So, did you make the line (rope) yourself using that Lego rope machine? That's dedication! In any event, I really admire the way you are building this ship.
Looking forward to further updates.
Cheers!
Jim
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No, no sheaves... Mea culpa, I should rebuild it...
Rope: My mother was a taylor - so I have plenty of threads at home. I have found the slenderest one and used it. (It is 100% polyester.)
Ropewalk machine: I'm working on this just now. Not from Lego, but wood and steel.
Radek
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Now back to Revenge.
I have completed the first layer of "planking" (of two).
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While planking, I was inspired by Victory project (as always ).
You can see my ship looks quite ugly now - that's becouse my retouch technique and second and more, becouse of alarming incurvation of plates. I'm building my ship from copy of original (as always, for sake of mis-shape) and I'm affraid I used too thin paper.
So, coud you help me and advice some technics of smoothing the hull, please? I have seen two possible ways in this forum. The first is put a layer of stopper(mastic) and sanding after it and the second one could be lay a layer of thin newspaper paper and sanding.
So, as I said, any advices or links are warmly welcome.
Thanks a lot, Radek
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... two more pictures.
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...no answer, no advice...
I covered the hul by another layer of small newspaper scraps and sanded after it. It looks mottled now, but is quite smooth.
The next stage are decks.
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Hi, Radek!
I am very sorry I missed that question too, but I doubt I could have suggested anything more useful as I haven't built a full hull yet anyway.
I have seen the use of mastic as you call it, or putty of sorts, to fill the low spots, but not the use of newspaper scraps, so if you could show us a picture, that would be great.
I do know that many times the hull plates get deformed when glued at each frame former, and I have seen some folks extend the hull plating across a few formers without using glue in between to avoid this distortion. Having never actually performed this feat, I can't say the pluses and minuses of the technique, but it seems to work very well for some. One problem is the underwater hull does not provide enough formers to make a smooth and faired hull...perhaps inserting something in between might help, such as foam or balsa wood spacers, and it might make the curve of the hull more fair for the final planking. Just some ideas for next time (and when I finally make a full hulled ship!).
In any event, your ship is really looking great! I did not realize there was so much internal detail provided in this kit, what with the Captian's cabin and such...awesome!
Cheers!
Jim