Hi John,
Yes I did finish it 
Here are some pictures of it (they show all the errors!!!).
I must get around to tightening some rigging too.
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Woody,
Hi.
Thanks for the reply.
I am aware of that site and it is very good. I also have quite a few books with pictures but again it is not clear.
I am also aware of the issue with displaying the swastika in Germany (and am willing to hide it in any photos I post) .
However, I am only after if they were Silver or Grey in colour or maybe changed from one to the other at a certain date.
The colour (and B&W) pics make it very hard to tell Silver from Grey!
Maybe someone can translate the model Magazin article?
'Luftwaffe Colours 1935-1945' by Michael Ullmann on page 14 he has a couple of pictures of 4 different types of DLH planes in "All appear to be finished in Silver with glossy Black engines". Also, on page 32 a 1941 DLH document is quoted as, "While our aircraft remain in NMF in peacetime, or are painted externally in Silver shade 01, for camoflage purpose their exteriors are to be painted in RLM Grey shade 02 during the durationof the war". I am favouring that the Ha139s were Light Grey with Silver for under water on the floats and the moveable elevators etc. I also believe that most of the DLH flyingboats WERE light Grey but that for the Do26 there may have been a period when (at least one) was Silver (either NMF as per the last photo by Mike but covered in a Lacquer protective coating) or actually painted in Silver (L40/51).
Hi all,
Sorry for posting in English.
I am trying to find what the livery (colours) of the DLH Dornier Do26 and Ha139 were pre war.
I am after any pictures of the Dornier Do26 and Blohm and Voss Ha139 in their prewar Deutsches Lufthansa (DLH) colours.
Obviously coulored photos preferable but B&W too. Essentially I am confused as to whether DLH had a change of livery from Silver (maybe NMF or dural aluminium) to light Grey fuselages or visa versa at some stage pre war. I have good B&W photographic evidence that the Ha139s were Grey all over with Silver ailerons and elevators and below water parts of the floats and the upper outer wings being Yellow (one Ha139 only apparently having Black engines). I also have evidence that the Do26s were Silver and/or Grey all over with Silver below water line and Yellow upper outer wings and at least one having Black engines. Now these two types of planes were different in their livery to other DLH planes (being for over the water service) and so had the Yellow high visability sections on their upper wings. BUT why did they not follow the rest of the DLH fleet colour scheme of Silver everywhere and Black engines? Michael Ullmans book at around page 21 has these pictures and information but the accompanying chart and text is NOT clear as it mentions both Silver AND Grey for outside fuselage!? In particular I am interested in seeing if the fuselages for the Do26 were light Grey (L40/52) or Silver (L40/52) or if they had both of these colour but at various times??
I also have an article and some readers comments from a German modelling magazine called "Modell Magazin" from 1975 issue 3, 4 and 5 about the Do26 and it's colours but am unable to read it. I wonder if anyone here is interested to translate then I could scan them in and email or maybe post in the forum (but it is a bit off topic I think).
regards
Peter
Hi all,
Does anyone know (Pawall?) if ABC did any ship models like the one Ralf had of the Varjag? or any others and if so what editions?
regards
Peter H
Rocky,
Hi.
Are you still building your great looking Graf Spee?
I have a 1/144 scale RC combat Graf Spee and think she is a very pretty ship.
I am very interested to see what you are up to.
How are the LEDs going? any problems with them yet?
One thing I would like is a scanned copy of the forward section of the deck so that I may use it (after modification in paint shop pro) to make a printout and glue to my 1/144 ship to reproduce the wooden deck.
Can you or anyone else email me a scanned copy of this section??
Anyway, look forward to more progress reports.
regards
peter
Hi all,
I have the new JSC Viribus Unitis and am a little unsure as to how correct the colour of the hull and superstructure is.
JSC has it in a light olive green, is the right.
I can scan it and recolour it if needed. It just seems strange to see a green battleship when most are grey (or camouflaged).
Also here in Australia very few people do card modelling and what you can buy is usually 1:87 scale buildings for railroads!
regards
Peter
Hi all,
small update.
I have finished some of the rigging (hard to see in pictures) and put the bases of the coal scuttles on (the round dots on the deck!!) see Pic 17.
And here is an bird's eye view, Pic 18.
Slowly getting there!
Will finish the rigging and railings and that should be about it.
Here is a overall view up todate.
I made the tertiary guns out of resin from a mold of the closest thing I had....a U-Boot deck gun (88mm) from a 1/144 Doyusha sub. The scale change resulted in a gun of about 50mm (2") which is about right in 1/250 I think!
Regards
Peter
Pic 15 , below, show a close up of how I tackled the mast rigging. Although I am unsure if these ships actually had sails or not they did appear to have the rigging for setting at least one or two sails from each mast!
The picture shows small bits of balsa used to get the same (correct?) spacing for each section.
Pic 15a shows half way across with the balsa removed.
I think it looks ok?
You will also see some more detail in the form of tertiary armament added. I think these are 50 or 75mm QF guns like in the following pictures of the recently built replica, (the original pictures label them as 3 pounders ?Hotchkiss).
Regards
Peter
Hi all,
Werner: The item is a JSC "viribus Unitis" WW1 dreadnought that they are waiting to have in stock. JSC does have them and has for at least a month!
Moduni did explain that they didn't have it in stock and did ask if I wanted to wait (ETA 24/10/05) before they sent the order, and I did say I would wait.
BUT I feel that as it is now 2-3 weeks past the ETA and 2 months after the order was placed, that sending the other items that are in stock or at least answering my emails to ask if I wanted to wait again would be polite.
So yes it is not Modunis fault, only theu could be a little more communicative.
regards
Peter
hi all,
sorry for posting in english .
I hope this is the right place to ask this?
I have ordered (and paid for via paypal) from Moduni a number of items back in September. I was emailed by them that one item would not be in until 24/10/05 and asked if I would like to wait for it, I said yes.
Since 25/10/05 I have sent 2 emails asking for an update on my order but have not received a reply. (this item IS listed as available by JSC who make it, but moduni's site say they do not know when it is due!!).
I was hoping someone here would have some advice as to what to do?
I have ordered from them before with no delay.
regards
Peter
Hallo an alle,
Entschuldigt bitte mein Posting in englischer Sprache.
Ich hoffe, dass hier die richtige Stelle für meine Frage ist.
Im September bestellte ich mein moduni verschiedene Artikel und bezahlte im voraus via paypal. Ich bekam daraufhin eine eMail von moduni, dass einer der Artikel voraussichtlich bis zum 24.10.2005 nicht lieferbar sei.
Ich wurde gefragt, ob ich darauf warten möchte was ich auch bestätigte.
Seit 25.10.2005 habe ich nun schon 2 eMails an moduni geschickt, in denen ich nach dem Status meiner Bestellung fragte und auf die ich nie eine Antwort bekam. Laut JSC ist dieser Artikel verfügbar - MODUNI's Seite sagt aber, dass man nicht weiß, wann dieser Artikel wieder lieferbar sein wird.
Ich hoffe, dass einer von Euch einen Rat für mich hat, wie ich nun weiter verfahren soll ...
Ich hatte sonst nie Schwierigkeiten mit den Bestellungen bei moduni.
Viele Grüße
Peter
Here is a close up of one of the ratlines:
Regards
Peter
Hier ist eine Nahaufnahme von einer der Wanten:
Grüße,
Peter
Hi all,
Pic 13 shows her with the masts up and the ratlines in place.
I made the white ratlines out of two sizes of cotton thread on a simple wooden frame with nails to wrap the thread around. I used CA to spot glue each join (this caused me to have an allergy for 4 days!!).
The masts are a combination of old wood handled paint brushes, tooth picks and satay sticks!
Also note that there are bollards and anchors in place and covers over the anchor chain outlets.
Pic 13a is the same photo but with no camera flash. What a big difference in the colour!
Regards
Peter
Hallo zusammen,
Bild 13 zeigt sie mit den Masten und Wanten. Ich habe die weißen Wanten aus Baumwollfaden in zwei Stärken über einen einfachen Holzrahmen mit Nägeln zur Befestigung gefertigt. Ich habe für jeden Verbindungspunkt CA-Kleber benutzt (hat mir 4 Tage allergische Reaktionen eingebracht).
Die Masten sind eine Kombination aus alten Holzpinselstielen, Zahnstochern und Schaschlikspießen.
Beachtet auch die die Poller und Anker, sowie Abdeckungen über den Kettenaustritten.
Bild 13 a ist das selbe Photo, nur ohne Blitz. Was für ein großer Unterschied in der Farbe !
Grüße,
Peter
Hi all,
Thank you to the Moderators(?) for the german translation, I hope that it will allow more of my German friends to understand my build.
I am certainly happy for people to post replies, advice or critisisms in German too......so long as they keep it simple! 
regards
Peter
Hallo zusammen,
dank an die Moderatoren (?) für die deutsche Übersetzung. Ich hoffe, dieses ermöglicht mehr deutschen Freunden meinen Bau zu verstehen.
Ich freue über Antworten, Hinweise oder Kritik - auch in Deutsch....so lange es einfach gehalten wird !
Grüße,
Peter
Hi all,
Some more details added with the support struts, from balsa, added for the ships boats. see pic 12 below.
On reflection and examining photos of the replica ship, it appears as if the support struts do NOT go all the way across but are divided down the middle. Don't think I will change it though!
Hallo zusammen,
Die Bootslager aus Balsa ergeben weitere hinzugefügte Details. Siehe Bild 12 unten.
Beim Überprüfen von Photos des Originalnachbaues, erscheint es so, dass die Bootslager nicht über die gesamte Breite gehen, sondern in der Mitte geteilt sind.
Ich denke, ich werde es aber nicht so abändern.
I have also made the front superstructure along with the armoured diagonal barbette, again there is some internal supports to these structures.
Pic 10 below. This shows the superstructure completed and some of the railings in place that were in hard to access areas.
Next it is onto the boat mountings and ancillary deck stuff and masts.
The designers plans called for 3 simple tube-like supports under each boat but the photos and plans I have found on the net showed a support framework for all the ships boats except the forward ones which had davits.
I made these out of thin balsa along with cradles to support the boats hulls.
The railings are laser cut card from a firm in Germany (T.Pleiner), although I have made my own for other ships on a wood frame with drawings of different railings (for correct spacing) and thread, see pic 11 below.
Regards
Peter
At this stage I built the two ? Torpedo boats as well as the turrets, see pic 7 and 8 below.
Note that there is some conflict as to where the single torp tube is mounted!! Some photos/plans show it mounted in the bow, others show it mounted on top of the stern deck. The roof of the four turrets are convex and so I had to cut along the 4 lines as marked on their roofs and then using a teaspoon rub the inside of them to make them take a convex shape of correct diameter.
Pic 9 below shows the completed hull with main armament.
Leif,
Thanks for the great tip (why didn't I think of that!!), I will investigate this next time I scale up
I am in a town 4 hours (by car) west of Sydney, called Mudgee (about 10,000 population, lots of vineyards (25) and lovely wines green hills).
Pic 4 below shows what the instructions are like when downloaded.
Normally in card ships you build up an internal frame, attach to a base plate and add sides or deck. However, the designer of this model didnt have any internal hull frames so I added them out of 1.5mm thick balsa as per Pic 6. The base plate was laminated onto 1mm thick card but despite putting weights on it to keep it straight it still warped (I did spill some water on it though!!). So I made a new one out of 3mm thick balsa (its still cellulose based!!) which fixed the warping problem. See Pic 5 for a comparison (Warped card deck (top), balsa baseplate (middle), printed card deck pieces joined).
Pic 2. Shows close up of main deck and two ? torpedo boats and parts.
I recoloured the deck, as the original was a very poor striped tan (pic 3a), as well as some of the sky lights/windows and changed the embossed dragons from black to yellow (see Pic 3 below).
Is there a way of inserting the explanations of the pictures under or between each picture rather than have all the pictures one after the other???
I thought I would do a build of the free-download paper model of the Ting Yuen, a Chinese battleship of the 1880s (http://homelf.kimo.com.tw/yukiyuji/TingYuen.zip).
I apoligise for my lack of German.
A bit of history first:
These were constructed in the German Vulcan yard and were patterned after and smaller versions of HMS Inflexible. Armed with four 12-inch guns in two turrets amidships and single 5.9-inch guns in smaller turrets at the bow and stern, they were powerful vessels. The central citadel had 14-inch armour plate although the turrets, in reality gun houses, had only one-inch of armour. When they arrived in China in 1886, they were the most powerful warships in the Far East. During the Sino-Japanese War of 1894, they were both present at the Battle of the Yalu with Ting Yuen being the flagship of Admiral Ting. Hit hundreds of times during the battle, the two Chinese Battleships fought off the main Japanese squadron. The 14-inch armour of their citadels proved impervious to Japanese fire. At the conclusion of the war in 1895 Ting Yuen was struck by a torpedo from a Japanese torpedo boat and beached as a total wreck. Chen Yuan was taken into the Japanese Navy and renamed Chin Yen. (The Chinese Steam Navy 1862-1945 by Richard Wright).
The original is 1/700 scale PDF file, but in order to fit in with my first two ships (V108 and Uruguay Cruiser) and future plans of a 1/250 scale navy I had to enlarge them.
As I have adobe reader V7 and Paint Shop Pro V8 I simply cut and pasted between these two programs and then printed out sections at 280% (from 1/700 to 1/250 scale) enlargement in order to fit on an A4 page.
Unfortunately this meant that the longest sections were cut between two pages and would have to be joined back together again at time of construction.
see pic 1 below:
Note A4 page in centre is original size of 1/700, other pages are how many required after scaling to 1/250.
Eskatee,
thanks for the pics but I allready have these and many others as a reference source (thanks to B Holderman).
These include numerous photos of the ship after the battle!! as well as some CGI stuff etc.
see a couple of the pics attached.
I am happy to send if you want.
regards
Peter
Hello,
Just to let you know I will post what I have done so far with this model in the construction thread later on tonight.
regards
Jorg,
Here is a pic of the turrets under construction.
The discs with the 4 small black lines are the top, but they need to be made convex (not flat). I did this by cutting along the black lines and rubbing the bottom of them with a spoon until they were curved.
peter
Jorg,
hello.
I thought that the deck colour looked like a nice dark oak. BUT I agree on second thoughts that it would probably bleach in the Eastern sun and be a lighter colour. However, the original deck was horrible (see photo"original deck")!!
I will post some more photos of the build soon.
regards
Peter
Hi all,
sorry I have little Deutsch.
I am also building this free download of the Ting Yuen but have scaled it up from 1/700 to 1/250 and recoloured the decks and some other parts.
So far I have found it to go together quite well
here is a photo:
regards
Peter
