Ting Yuen / Download / 1:250

    I thought I would do a build of the free-download paper model of the Ting Yuen, a Chinese battleship of the 1880s (http://homelf.kimo.com.tw/yukiyuji/TingYuen.zip).


    I apoligise for my lack of German.


    A bit of history first:
    These were constructed in the German Vulcan yard and were patterned after and smaller versions of HMS Inflexible. Armed with four 12-inch guns in two turrets amidships and single 5.9-inch guns in smaller turrets at the bow and stern, they were powerful vessels. The central citadel had 14-inch armour plate although the turrets, in reality gun houses, had only one-inch of armour. When they arrived in China in 1886, they were the most powerful warships in the Far East. During the Sino-Japanese War of 1894, they were both present at the Battle of the Yalu with Ting Yuen being the flagship of Admiral Ting. Hit hundreds of times during the battle, the two Chinese Battleships fought off the main Japanese squadron. The 14-inch armour of their citadels proved impervious to Japanese fire. At the conclusion of the war in 1895 Ting Yuen was struck by a torpedo from a Japanese torpedo boat and beached as a total wreck. Chen Yuan was taken into the Japanese Navy and renamed Chin Yen. (The Chinese Steam Navy 1862-1945 by Richard Wright).


    The original is 1/700 scale PDF file, but in order to fit in with my first two ships (V108 and Uruguay Cruiser) and future plans of a 1/250 scale navy I had to enlarge them.
    As I have adobe reader V7 and Paint Shop Pro V8 I simply cut and pasted between these two programs and then printed out sections at 280% (from 1/700 to 1/250 scale) enlargement in order to fit on an A4 page.
    Unfortunately this meant that the longest sections were cut between two pages and would have to be joined back together again at time of construction.
    see pic 1 below:




    Note A4 page in centre is original size of 1/700, other pages are how many required after scaling to 1/250.

    Pic 2. Shows close up of main deck and two ? torpedo boats and parts.


    I recoloured the deck, as the original was a very poor striped tan (pic 3a), as well as some of the sky lights/windows and changed the embossed dragons from black to yellow (see Pic 3 below).


    Is there a way of inserting the explanations of the pictures under or between each picture rather than have all the pictures one after the other???

    Peter, great to follow another build of a up-scaled model. If you wish to try it, there's a comparatively simple way of getting the long parts on to a common sheet. See "How to make larger prints in an ordinary printer".


    The only thing you've got to do on your own is to buy some larger sheets and cut them longer.


    Just if you think it would be of any help.


    Leif


    PS. Where are you at?

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    Edited once, last by Leif Ohlsson ().

    Leif,
    Thanks for the great tip (why didn't I think of that!!), I will investigate this next time I scale up :D
    I am in a town 4 hours (by car) west of Sydney, called Mudgee (about 10,000 population, lots of vineyards (25) and lovely wines green hills).


    Pic 4 below shows what the instructions are like when downloaded.
    Normally in card ships you build up an internal frame, attach to a base plate and add sides or deck. However, the designer of this model didnt have any internal hull frames so I added them out of 1.5mm thick balsa as per Pic 6. The base plate was laminated onto 1mm thick card but despite putting weights on it to keep it straight it still warped (I did spill some water on it though!!). So I made a new one out of 3mm thick balsa (its still cellulose based!!) which fixed the warping problem. See Pic 5 for a comparison (Warped card deck (top), balsa baseplate (middle), printed card deck pieces joined).

    At this stage I built the two ? Torpedo boats as well as the turrets, see pic 7 and 8 below.


    Note that there is some conflict as to where the single torp tube is mounted!! Some photos/plans show it mounted in the bow, others show it mounted on top of the stern deck. The roof of the four turrets are convex and so I had to cut along the 4 lines as marked on their roofs and then using a teaspoon rub the inside of them to make them take a convex shape of correct diameter.


    Pic 9 below shows the completed hull with main armament.

    I have also made the front superstructure along with the armoured diagonal barbette, again there is some internal supports to these structures.


    Pic 10 below. This shows the superstructure completed and some of the railings in place that were in hard to access areas.


    Next it is onto the boat mountings and ancillary deck stuff and masts.
    The designers plans called for 3 simple tube-like supports under each boat but the photos and plans I have found on the net showed a support framework for all the ships boats except the forward ones which had davits.
    I made these out of thin balsa along with cradles to support the boats hulls.
    The railings are laser cut card from a firm in Germany (T.Pleiner), although I have made my own for other ships on a wood frame with drawings of different railings (for correct spacing) and thread, see pic 11 below.


    Regards
    Peter

    Hi Peter


    Love the build and changing the scale, I will have to do this with a lot of the models I have as I only build 1/200 or larger now :rolleyes:


    The designers have to many great smaller scale models not to build them, so up wil go the scales.


    Any tips would be great for us all


    Keep at and hopr to see a lot more soon


    Rob

    Hi all,


    Some more details added with the support struts, from balsa, added for the ships boats. see pic 12 below.
    On reflection and examining photos of the replica ship, it appears as if the support struts do NOT go all the way across but are divided down the middle. Don't think I will change it though!


    Hallo zusammen,


    Die Bootslager aus Balsa ergeben weitere hinzugefügte Details. Siehe Bild 12 unten.


    Beim Überprüfen von Photos des Originalnachbaues, erscheint es so, dass die Bootslager nicht über die gesamte Breite gehen, sondern in der Mitte geteilt sind.


    Ich denke, ich werde es aber nicht so abändern.

    Hi all,


    Thank you to the Moderators(?) for the german translation, I hope that it will allow more of my German friends to understand my build.
    I am certainly happy for people to post replies, advice or critisisms in German too......so long as they keep it simple! :D



    regards
    Peter


    Hallo zusammen,


    dank an die Moderatoren (?) für die deutsche Übersetzung. Ich hoffe, dieses ermöglicht mehr deutschen Freunden meinen Bau zu verstehen.
    Ich freue über Antworten, Hinweise oder Kritik - auch in Deutsch....so lange es einfach gehalten wird ! :D


    Grüße,


    Peter

    Regards


    Peter Hawkins
    Mudgee, NSW
    Australia

    Hi all,


    Pic 13 shows her with the masts up and the ratlines in place.
    I made the white ratlines out of two sizes of cotton thread on a simple wooden frame with nails to wrap the thread around. I used CA to spot glue each join (this caused me to have an allergy for 4 days!!).
    The masts are a combination of old wood handled paint brushes, tooth picks and satay sticks!
    Also note that there are bollards and anchors in place and covers over the anchor chain outlets.
    Pic 13a is the same photo but with no camera flash. What a big difference in the colour!


    Regards


    Peter


    Hallo zusammen,


    Bild 13 zeigt sie mit den Masten und Wanten. Ich habe die weißen Wanten aus Baumwollfaden in zwei Stärken über einen einfachen Holzrahmen mit Nägeln zur Befestigung gefertigt. Ich habe für jeden Verbindungspunkt CA-Kleber benutzt (hat mir 4 Tage allergische Reaktionen eingebracht).
    Die Masten sind eine Kombination aus alten Holzpinselstielen, Zahnstochern und Schaschlikspießen.
    Beachtet auch die die Poller und Anker, sowie Abdeckungen über den Kettenaustritten.
    Bild 13 a ist das selbe Photo, nur ohne Blitz. Was für ein großer Unterschied in der Farbe !


    Grüße,


    Peter

    Pic 15 , below, show a close up of how I tackled the mast rigging. Although I am unsure if these ships actually had sails or not they did appear to have the rigging for setting at least one or two sails from each mast!
    The picture shows small bits of balsa used to get the same (correct?) spacing for each section.
    Pic 15a shows half way across with the balsa removed.
    I think it looks ok?
    You will also see some more detail in the form of tertiary armament added. I think these are 50 or 75mm QF guns like in the following pictures of the recently built replica, (the original pictures label them as 3 pounders ?Hotchkiss).


    Regards


    Peter

    Here is a overall view up todate.
    I made the tertiary guns out of resin from a mold of the closest thing I had....a U-Boot deck gun (88mm) from a 1/144 Doyusha sub. The scale change resulted in a gun of about 50mm (2") which is about right in 1/250 I think!


    Regards
    Peter

    Hi John and Peter,
    you two broke a record today. The one was asking in a thread almost 10 years old and the other one actually responded with a finished model.
    Amazing!


    Regards
    Jan