Just to clarify Zec's comments, here are two drawings demonstrating how it worked. The machine guns fired through the engine, between cylinders!
Don't let this make you too depressed, Frank. I love your build of this excellent model. I think it sets an example for how to make the very best use of such advanced and richly detailed models.
Leif
PS. I suspect you already knew this. You just haven't got to the forward parts of the machine gun cowlings yet. That's right, isn't it?
Of course you should recount your research experiences in good order. And don't forget to include photographic material. Following the process will be a pure pleasure. It will be most educational and worth preserving as a genuine work of lasting importance.
I'm glad for you, Martin, that you have come to the point of realizing your long-stated goal. I also understand that arriving at this point might be a bit intimidating. We'll be rooting for you, through the ups and downs of the whole thing.
Leif
Good work; I admire the cockpit in particular! - Leif
In the two reasonably good drawings I have, one of them (top left) shows a very slight angle outwards of the legs.
In the better drawing (bottom left), I couldn't detect and angle at first. At first, I thought there was, but then I came to believe it was the curved wheel cover fooling me.
The I got really curious and saved a part of the same drawing from the rear, where the gear leg was clearly visible. And there was in fact an angle. I saved a really big image so that it is quite clear (bottom right).
Not proof of anything, of course, but still.
The top drawing is of a Spitfire Vb, the bottom (better) one is a Spitfire Vc.
Congratulations on the first cut-out, see-through aircraft paper model I can remember seeing - somebody actually dared take the first step! The model really deserves it. I've been thinking about the same thing, for the same model. And then others. Very inspiring too see you actually doing it.
Leif
Hello Mindaugas,
I wish you successful studies, and some happy modeling to keep you company away from home!
I was wondering who's the designer of the Modelik Polikarpov - any relation to the Modele Kartonowe (free download) model?
Leif
Dear Rutz,
I've been kind of busy with other sectors of life, but the Comet is resting right in front of me, standing on its nose to protect the underside, which is sorely lacking a rather complicated landing gear.
Perhaps the Christmas period will set this right. We'll see.
Thanks for asking! - Leif
It is indeed a beautiful piece of tool. I'm glad for you (and a little bit envious).
Leif
Great tip! Thanks. - Leif
Hello Hans-Jürgen,
What's with the "Halter für das Schälen heißer Kartoffeln" and does it help you to adjust formers? Sounds like it would merit a photo...
The Fokker is very nice.
Leif
The one I picked up was by "tesa". Very standard and quite common it seems, mostly for household use, like attaching shelf paper, glueing on labels, attaching thin stripes of panels, etc. I don't remember the price exactly, but a couple of Euros, I guess. I'm sure others, with greater experience, can give you better or more precise tips.
The good thing about this kind of tape is that it is 50mm wide (and 5m long), so it will cover an uncut part all over. Then you can cut out the inside (where the glazing will be), peel of the protective paper, stick the uncut transparency on, and only then cut the outside rim clean (through paper, tape & glazing).
Leif
Fred, I'm not sure Jörg referred to Scotch double-sided tape. It's much too tricky to use, since it doesn't have a protective foil. Use the kind which comes thin, but with a protective foil (not necessarily Scotch); building markets have several non-descript brands in different widths & lengths.
Stick the first sticky side onto the part while it is still only roughly cut; then cut both layers clean; and only then remove the protective film for attaching to the transparent sheet.
Chris, nice work! - L.
I'm sure Jörg's suggestion is the best and wisest. Just thought I'd mention another intriguing possiblity I've seen suggested, namely to print the frame parts on self-adhesive paper (used for labels, etc.; the kind which has a protective sheet over the sticky side).
Attached, see two illustrations from the instructions for Andrzej Inwald's D4Y2 Susei.
Leif
I'm glad for you, and your pretty Fokker. I will remember that rotary engine for some time! - L.
The exhausts are beautiful, and so is the painted seam! - L.
I am very happy to finally see this model actually built - it's been on my dream wishlist as long as I've heard about it. This is the first time I actually see it.
I'm also happy that you built a scan, not the (now extinct) original!
Thank you!
Leif
PS. That is one pretty SE-5A you have hanging there from the roof! Orlik, isn't it? I admire that model, since it is one of the few models that you (at least theoretically) could build as a partly see-through model, showing the interior.
It would be really interesting to hear more about your experiences enlarging the SE-5A to 1:14. I applaud that effort - the kit, like so many other high-quality kits, deserves it.
Or perhaps this is not the Orlik kit, but the big Spanish one, now also extinct?
GREAT landing gears, Mindauagas. And the engines are exquisite. I could watch these photos for a long time; it's such a pleasure to see your careful work.
And many thanks for the tip about the circle cutter. That very problem has plagued me, but I never found a solution. Thanks!
Leif
Thanks! Now I know a little bit what we are talking about.
I was just thinking that contacting Willi might be fruitful.
Leif
This is not a proper answer to your request. Still, the mentioning of Perry Rhodan (an unknown entity to me) triggered the memory of a recent posting at Papermodelers.com.
Go see if you've found a friend...
Leif
For when you get back, here's the best photo of the M11 enginge I've found. It's the M11-F, a late version. Note the enclosed valve rockers, and pushrods. Makes it easier to construct (but the earlier, open, version is more interesting...).
Source: Wikipedia (eng), where you can download an even higher resolution image.
L.
PS. It suddenly strikes me that you built the Junak - perhaps there is the very engine you need?
I'm thinking that it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to make the wings really foldable, back and forth, since the wingfolding includes removing the front strut and folding the rear one each time. Quite an ingenious design, but difficult to make a working model of it.
What you could do, of course, is to build one wing in the "flying" positon, and the other folded, just to point at how it worked. In that case it would be the start of an attractive diorama model.
About the landing gear: The upside is that you don't have to replicate spoked wheels. Something to be grateful for!
If it helps, here's the main drawing scaled to 1:33 as close as I could get it. And divided into three A4 size-sheets.
Looking at them I spotted the little metal pennant (weather vane) at the bow, good for determining wind direction when taking off. A "must" to include in your build!
L.
Very pretty! - L.
Good Peter - just a remark: Nicht klappen sondern wegnehmen (the stubs don't fold, they are removed - probably detachable). Unscrew one bolt at the top, and one at the bottom twice for each stub, and they come away. But no hinges (Scharnier).
About the engine, and your wish to build it more detailed. I have long been thinking that the free kits and addendums from CardPlane (Modele Kartonowe) is a goldmine for kitbashing. Go have a look at ccoyles' build of the PWS Z-17 on this site.
This is a nine-cylinder engine, but the cylinders themselves seems to be very much like the M-11 engine, so if you use five of these, plus the exhaust tubes, you should be fine.
The addendum with the engine can be found here, at Modele Kartonowe. The direct link for the download of the parts I was thinking about is this:
http://www.modele-kartonowe.co…ep_additional%20parts.pdf
You could look around Lech's very generous site for other engines that might suit you even better. It's just the cylinders you are interested in, right? Just an idea.
Leif
Good work! About the engine, see:
http://www.ctrl-c.liu.se/misc/ram/eng_m-11.html
And a larger drawing:
http://www.ctrl-c.liu.se/misc/ram/m-11-andreev.jpg
About the wing folding: Studying the plans, it is clear that the wing folded backwards at the rear spar. When folding, the trailing edge went under a flap in the centre section. See sketch below.
About the stub wing: I very much doubt that the stub wing folded, and most likely not at the place you've tried to build. If it really did, that is not to be seen either from the photos or the drawing.
However, it was clearly detachable much further in. See sketch from plans detailing the fittings, and a close-up from the big photo, where you can see the slot.
Otherwise, a big challenge seems to be the rail for the landing gear, which is not detailed in the drawing. Very likely there were many modifications (perhaps including a folding outer section of the stub wing).
Finally two more photos of the M11 engine, this time mounted on the classic Po-2 biplane. Note that in the last image the valve rocker rods are enclosed. Perhaps this is the more powerful M-11L version mentioned in places. Sources:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Cz…photo#5079184878956710930
http://picasaweb.google.com/in…photo#5227010368549401282
Leif
The proper designations for the ambulance version seem to be Sh-2S or Sh-26 (differing opinions among the sources above). It is depicted in the second plan view above (note the stretcher drawn). The second seat was occupied by a medical personnel in ambulance duty.
There is a really pretty picture, good for detailing the engine as well, here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Shavrov_Sh-2_display.jpg
That landing gear is really intriguing - folds upwards with the help of a loop of wires, along some kind of track. The suspension is by rubber cords. In the pure naval version the entire landing gear was deleted for weight reasons. This was probably the case during service with the ice-breaker fleet.
Note that you can see/download the photo in a really large version as well! With a little deft work in a graphic programme I suspect you could exract the Aeroflot logo and use it on a scanned version of the model. And the serial no - CCCP-E 1986, plus a red "45" with yellow lining on the fin. Not to difficult, is it?
That particular aircraft is preserved at the Historic Aircraft Restoration Museum, St Louis.
Leif
... and for more of the Shavrov Sh-2 (text & photos), see the following:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shavrov_Sh-2
http://www.msacomputer.com/Fly…ussia/Russia-History.html
http://www.aviastar.org/air/russia/shavrov-2.php
http://www.ctrl-c.liu.se/misc/ram/sh-2.html
I attach a few samples from these sites. The first two, and the last, are from the Russian Flying Boats site, and the third (white ambulance) from the Russian Virtual Aircraft Museum.
The two last are of the ambulence version, which I just learned (from the sources above) was called Sh-2-s, or Sh-26. Interestingly, they came in both white and olive drab.
Finally, about the M-11 engine, it is the same as in the Po-2 double-decker, another veteran having roughly the same lengthy time in service. Those engines just kept ticking, didn't they.
Leif
There is something very attractive about these 1920s-30s Russian planes; probably the sense of pioneering or something. Anyway, really interesting choice of subject - just imagine that they were in active service until 1964!
And thanks "Aeromarino" for a reminder to revisit the Seawings. It really is a most excellent reference site.
The links to the plans you're referring to deserve repeating. Here they are:
http://www.seawings.co.uk/shavplan1.htm
http://www.seawings.co.uk/shavplan2.htm
http://www.seawings.co.uk/shavplan3.htm
Leif
I am glad you liked our museum! Tomorrow I am meeting up with Raimund Kelterer who is in Gothenburg for a week, and I'll recommend it to him as well. Plus the Aeroseum, the aircraft museum at Säve airport (an old fighter base, now a museum, plus a commercial & light aircraft airport).
Greetings, Leif
I would have never guessed that part 13 was a trim wheel; it looks too much like the centre of some wheel hub. But I believe you, of course! - L.
Hello David. I have followed your build, and noticed that you are relatively new here at this forum (I've seen your work previously, in US forums). I do hope someone has said hello & welcome properly. It is good to see you here, too!
I do envy your position as retired in Spain - although at the moment I think the temperature up here in Scandinavia would almost match yours down there! (Quite a difference though, a few months ahead; I already shudder and cringe...)
Leif
Good move with the instruments. With downloads, you can do this pretty easily (copy & paste another set of instruments). With printed kits its a nuisance. Designers really ought to include double copies of these (and other) details. Both as spares, and for doubling, if you are so inclined.
The glossy dope seems to be working fine. As for "glazing", I've used an intermediary sheet of transparencies hitherto. In the future I think I will try simply taping over the bottom layer with ordinary clear (glossy) tape.
Leif
Hello Chris,
I'm glad to see you doing this. Lech has such a generous website, that you could keep busy for a very long while just building his free models, so it is good to see someone tackling those he has been able to get published.
Even so, the sample downloads, errata, and free extra details are a goldmine in themselves. I've actually started a collection of them with the hindthought of having a good number of pilot's seats, radial engines, throttle levers, and sundry details available for kitbashing.
Amazing that so little about the original aircraft is available on the net. A quick search didn't produce much at all (apart from many pictures of Lech's model). The more of these Polish aircraft you see, the more intrigued you get by the obviously very advanced early Polish aircraft industry during the 20s and 30s. And they were not all military either, as one of Lech's upcoming models is demonstrating, the PZL-26.
Good luck with the build!
Leif
I would put it under the old iron ("bügeln") like already suggested. Iron it on both sides, until you're satisfied. You might even apply some steam from the iron. Try it on some other piece of cutting paper, to gain confidence & experience with different temperatures, and different amounts of steam. - L.
QuoteI stopped just long enough to buy the Orlik 1/33 scale De Havilland Mosquito yesterday and that too will be getting the 1/16 scale enlargement treatment when ready!
I'm so happy to see more people building in a sensible scale! - Leif
Martin, I was thinking about you, and your wish for a Spitfire PR XI. Haven't found that, but I just happened on to Gremir's two Spitfire PRXIX (the Swedish one is here, and the British one here).
[Blocked Image: http://www.gremirmodels.com/Spitfire_XIX_v1.jpg][Blocked Image: http://www.gremirmodels.com/Spitfire_XIX_v2.jpg]
But then, that would be old hat to you, I suppose...
Leif
Thinking about it later on, I realized they must have been radiators. But they sure are the most curious-looking ones I've seen, right? - L.
And what, pray, are those two "Heizkörper"? - L.
Look how pretty she shines - a very powerful argument for building the model as printed, in original! - L.
Hello Jan!
I know that you can buy it, and I've done so. But in Sweden, at least, I cannot buy anything but 3mm depron (or similar), in very large sheets. The price is some 8 euros for a square meter or possibly somewhat more. That may or may not be expensive, but in any case it isn't 2mm.
Which is why I thought the tip about the free 2mm stuff used for protecting paper and just thrown away at the shop was too good not to mention.
I have made a few test parts, and when laminated on both sides it works just beautifully.
Keith, I've had some experience of cutting out parts doubled on to 2mm hard card. It is indeed a lot of work, and in the end I resorted to a power table jigsaw.
However, since then I have been thinking and looking for proper substitute material for the hard 2mm card. The best I have arrived at is 2mm depron (which is the white foamy stuff they use for insulating electrically heated floors). I have not been able to locate a source for that, and in any case it is kind of expensive-ish.
Imagine my joy, therefore, when finding out that 2mm depron (or similar material) is used for protecting packages of large-sheet papers, such as available in artists shops.
You should try to locate an artists shop selling large sheets of expensive paper, like aquarel paper and similar, and kind of mention your problem. Perhaps they, like my shop keeper, will feel in a merciful mood and just give you the large sheets (which they trow away in any case).
Although I haven't tried them for a real model yet, they seem ideal. You will probably have to double them both back & front with ordinary paper (pattern on one side; suitably coloured or white, on the other) for rigidity.
The good news is that white glue works very well. The even better news is that you can make exact cuts, and the cutting is like through butter, at least compared to 2mm hard card.
For what it's worth. I'd love to see it tried out on a full build.
Leif
