Final parts for now is more gun platforms. I think the instructions actually says something different about the construction but this is how the drawings implied it should look. (Hindsight: I could have tried to find a few pictures ...)
I added some tabs to the deck to make it easier to get the platforms to stay in place.
There is also what looks like a skylight on the deck.
More railings (that needs coloring of the insides). There are no supports for these but I like the result from using just wiccol glue (in several layers). It becomes sufficiently transparent when it dries.
Not much to say about this, just a couple of deck houses (or "grey boxes" if you want).
The "support" below the open gun platforms (part 32) required adjustments to fit in place. I had to cut away several mm at each end to make it fit.
The sides of the superstructure (as built so far) were not complicated in any way but required some coloring on the top insides that are part of some sort of fixed railing.
(Not much have been accomplished here lately, sorry about that)
Next up are piece 30 to 33.
Here part 28 is in place on top of the rest of the subassembly, the railing around the front of it is part 29 and the rest of the railing extends from part 27.
Part 28 extends out from part 26 with space for two AA guns. I have decide to hold off glueing the combined subassembly on to the main hull. The fiddly bits are easier to work with when you can twist and turn the "base" easily.
The final result with part 27 in place.
The inside of part of the superstructure sides (part 27 again) is actually visible. I colored the visible areas using different shades of gray depending on the color of the adjacent deck.
For these relatively large areas I used water colors instead of felt tipped pens, it easier to get an even color that way.
The upper deck (part 25) needed some trimming to get a good fit around part 26. Also some additional coloring of the front "wings" of part 23 was necessary to cover small areas of white card that otherwise would have been visible. (Not much, but noticeable to me at least)
There is lots and lots of folds on part 27.
When I attached part 26 on top of part 23 I made a small mistake with the starboard side of part 26. Both sides are supposed to be vertical where part 27 is to be attached but I managed to make it "sag" inwards in the middle. I compensated for that with some additional strips of paper that hides the number 27 on that side of the part.
Work continues on part 26. Again I decided to add an extra former to get better rigidity in the construction, quite a lot of pieces will be added on top of this one.
This is the next layer of parts that is to go on top of the previous one, part 27 (at the bottom of the photo) is the tricky bit, and I hope to have finished that in a week or two.
Next up is the bottom part of the superstructure, it is apparent from looking at the pieces that at least some of the other parts must be assembled and glued to this one before it can be put in place on the main deck. Part no 27 is to be "wrapped" around the front of at least one more subassembly on top of this part. That will be much easier to do if one does not have to handle the entire hull while trying to fit no 27 in place.
I also decided to add more bulkheads to the interior as can be seen in the last photo, otherwise the part felt to flimsy to survive the rest of the assembly. Originally there was only two of them.
The aft end of the part have quite a lot of angles so some extra care is needed to ensure a good fit for the sides that have many bends in them.
Not everything is made out of paper, I have been working on the Norske Löve for a loong time, and this time another deck is being fitted. (and later on attached with lots and lots of glue).
I find outdoor papermodeling not so easy, the slightest bit of wind and disaster strikes 
It is not entirely visible in any of the pictures above, but I did have some problems with a buckling deck. It was mainly visible at the aft end of the ship where the superstructure were to be added. I probably used a bit too much glue on that part of the deck.
So I decided to add som extra bulkheads orthogonal to the original ones. While doing that I also added some at the bow just to keep the lines of the hull smooth. A few small pieces of paper also helped smoothing the curve of the extreme end of the stern.
This removed most of the buckling and made the frame even more rigid/solid.
Edit: The small rectangular pieces of cardboard in the picture above are the beginnings of the extra bulkheads.
If anyone wonders about the floppy disks I use them to spread the load when I put something heavy on top of the model after gluing, to keep it "in shape".
And the two middle hull side parts cut down to size and put in place followed by two shot of the complete model so far:
Now that the frame is completed it is time to cover it with decks and hull sides. None of the parts share their joining positions with the frame so there will be no "soft spots" in the construction.
Another very good thing is the use of an adjustable piece for the middle of the hull sides, that make it possible to focus on getting the bow and the stern properly adjusted without bothering about the fit in the middle of the hull. When all looks good you cut the middle pieces down into the required size and fit them in place. Perhaps that same idea would work for hullplating on a full hull model and make it easier to get that right?
When dryfitting the parts it was obvious that the deck had to be attached first and the sides afterwards, that way minimal adjustments had to be made to the parts. Just a few thin strips from the middle of the deck and some strips of the hull sides at the bottom to match up with the frame.
Thank you Jörg.
Yes, I find the 1:400 line by JSC a very good compromise in size and detailing. The older ones especially are not overloaded with detail parts while still having nice details in the printing. The little "bonus" model is a nice touch, you get something pretty that can be completed in a reasonable amount of time.
Of course it would be nice to do something like the very impressive Prinz Eugen build or Scorpio:s always impressive (and quickly built) large ships. But I would have to spend far to much time for to little return and go nuts in the process.
It will be interesting to see what Artur Zuranski does with Fantom Model and the 1:300 scale, perhaps another good "middle ground" there.
/Ulf
And another one from below:
After some assembly this is the result.
The bulkheads are actually quite rigid thanks to the doubling of the paper and the wiccol glue. The sides and the deck also get a lot stiffer later on thanks to the outer "skin" layers.
When both the forward and the aft parts are complete they can be glued together at the middle ends and the result is the complete hull frame.
There is nothing really complex about the model so far, just don't mix up the numbers on the bulkheads. Those are printed not on the bulkhead part itself so some care is necessary.
But first a small interlude.
The attached image shows a part of my toolset.
I prefer Wiccoll glue for its paper bonding effect. After gluing some pieces together I have had to use a knife to cut things apart when I made any mistakes, I think that bodes well for the rest of the model. Some Alleskleber is useful for the sometimes necessary plastic to paper bondings.
For edge coloring I prefer to use felt tipped pens, I actually want the edges to be visible (not white though), this is after all pieces of paper that are put together and I want that visible in the finished model. Larger areas are more easily covered with water colors.
The yellow knife is an Olfa AK-1 that I managed to find a single one of in a local bargain bin. I very much like the way it cuts the paper so I would be grateful if anyone could point me to a european source for original replacement blades. The Soft-touch Micro-Tip scissors is from a british online-shop, no local sources available for that either.
I forgot to mention in the first post that this model is a waterline model like most of the JSC line.
Like most (perhaps all?) JSC ships this one uses a different way of construction for the hull. The base hull is split into a forward and an aft part. both consisting of an outer "shell" and a set of bulkheads. It all starts with the following pieces:
Hi Gert,
The pictures should be visible uploaded along with the first post in 600x450 resolution, the second post is just complimentary for those who want hires versions that are larger than the attachment limits allows for.
/cadwal
Hi,
this is going to be a construction report of the HMS Nelson (JSC No 16, 1:400). But I would like to point out from the beginning that I will not be updating the thread often. My builds take a looong time to progress. (The will be a few extra posts now at the beginning)
HMS Nelson was one of the two new battleships that Britain were allowed to construct according to the Washington treaty as a compensation for the US and Japanese ships armed with 16 inch guns. The other was HMS Rodney known from the battle with Bismarck.
Both ships share the distinctive silouette of three forward facing triple turrets with the superstructure placed very far aft compared to "normal" battleships. That design coupled with bad choices of materials (mainly to save weight) and not so good assembly quality lead to various problems like the bridge windows being destroyed if the guns were to fire even slightly aft past the superstructure, anything on the forward decks being easily damaged during gunfire as well as the 16 inch gun and its supporting machinery not being as good a design as the earlier 15 inch Mk I. The ship was also somewhat underpowered, again due to weight savings.
The model is not computer designed and the paper quality perhaps not up to modern standards, but still nothing major to complain about. The model contains 10 A4 Sheets containg 881 parts depicting the ship as it was in 1945 (according to JSC). The inside of the cover has plans of the ship(s) and instructions in Polish are provided. (I just found the english ones here in the forum)
Like many other JSC kits this one contains an additional model, the Flower-class corvette HMS Begonia. I have put a few pictures of that model completed in the Gallery section. HMS Begonia
Original size images @ ImageShack:
[Blocked Image: http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/5830/img1764vg2.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/7305/img1763bi2.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/743/img1762cu8.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/7996/img1761bv3.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3843/img1760sb5.th.jpg]
Hi,
Here are a few pictures of the HMS Begonia, a Flower-class corvette (or coastal escort) launched in 1941.
This model is the "extra" item that comes with the No 16 JSC kit. It is one the older JSC kits, so no crisp computer design.
(And also no rigging, I avoid that if possible 
)
For those interested in fiction I can recommend the book "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat. The "Compass Rose", a fictional Flower-class corvette is one of the main characters of the book.
