1/33 Me Bf 109 K-4 Model-Hobby 2020-1

This new model is very worth buying. Its quotation includes a canopy, and I don't need to purchase it separately. The drawings and printing are also very detailed. I'll start making it now. As you can see from the photo, the canopy is not the previous Halinski version, and its back end is relatively far and rounded, which is specifically designed to match this model.

Quote from Hans-Joachim Möllenberg

Sorry.......again......

I'm sorry again, they're too small for me to notice. I have replaced the wrong one with your picture

Quote from Osborne

this is the so called "Galland Haube"...

I can't wait to see how you're going to build this part - the typical asymmetrical fairing for the K version...

This model contains a complete engine. If I install it into the fuselage, it may cause the hood to fail to close, and this asymmetric fuselage will not be appreciated. This is very confusing for me. I think I'd better not install the engine, but let the hood close to better display its beauty. For this reason, the engine can only be placed separately.

Anyway, the process has already started

Many parts are left and right distinguishable, but without any markings, I can only judge for myself. I made a mistake in judging that the printed side of W10 should be facing upwards. Due to this error, I had to cut off the positioning pin.

Quote from Maxim_RB

Hello, Ferrarifan!

I got the same model on my bench, I hope I will finish it somehow)

We can make a small group build of this, on separate threads or in a single one, what do you think?

Here is my progress for today:

Hi Maxim, It's a great honor for me to meet you. I didn't expect anyone else to make the same model at the same time.

Judging from the photos, your model is much more complete than mine. I can definitely learn from your process. Do I need to improve my speed to catch up with your progress?

I have never had experience building models in a single thread, but I would love to give it a try. I hope you can give me more guidance. My first step is to modify the topic of this thread? What do you think is a better name for it？

Quote from Maxim_RB

Hi Ferrarifan! Lets leave your thread name as it is, I am not sure I will be able to keep up with your speed of assembly and eventually we will be on equal stage of construction) Lets consider it as not a competition, but a kind of cooperative Zen practice (what the modelling actually is). You make, I make, we share our results, discussing the process, it must be fun And if this experience will work out good - I have a lot of Halinski models to make with you. From my side, I will try to dedicate at least one hour every day to this construction - got a job, two small kids, four horses, it takes some time Nice work with the MK108 cannon breech cowling

Hi Maxim, I quite agree with you. I regard the modeling as my happiest enjoyment, and like you, I will not turn this enjoyment opportunity into a competition. By the way, I should spend a little more time on this enjoyment every day than you do，because I only have one child, and I don't have a horse. Let's continue

You won't include a Ferrari in your four horses, will you?

I spent a day improving the visual effect of the seat belts, and the effect looks good. My print pattern comes from the product catalog on the Eduard official website:

Seatbelts Luftwaffe WWII fighters STEEL 1/32

Seatbelts Luftwaffe WWII fighters STEEL 1/32 -

www.eduard.com

I didn't completely follow the original instructions and made minor modifications based on profiles I found

I have made some refinement to cockpit details according to the 109K-4 operation manual in "DCS World", and currently there is a lack of a flare gun under the right window frame.

Continue to make it as I expected, and the effect is not quite the same as the model designer hoped.

I'm making a strangely engine hood

@Osborne, The typical asymmetrical fairing for the K version:

Quote from Maxim_RB

Hi! Your progress on the model looks very impressive! I have a set of photoetched seatbelts, but in the end I decided to save it for the next project and made a copy from my Halinski 109 F-2 journal. Got some minor progress on my model, still struggling to get some time for build. Will show my work this week) Be careful with the lower air intake, I did a mistake in its assemly and now I am in doubts, whether it possible to make it right.

Hi Maxim, I have found from your production photos that the seat belts effect provided by you without using the original model has indeed improved a lot. If you use photo-etching belts, the effect will definitely improve significantly. I look forward to your next work. So far, there have been no major mistakes in our production process. I hope to see your update at.

Unfortunately, neither of us has adopted the engine installation plan. A friend of mine also plans to start making this model, and he assured me that he will install the engine on the aircraft. I have provided him with the address for this thread, and I hope to see him post the production process here earlier.

Quote from Zaphod

Hello Ferrarifan,

great work with the cockpit and the fairing !

If you want the red knobs to look more realistic you can apply several layers of glue (the white one which dries transparent) until you get a ball-like form.

Kind regards

Zaphod

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Hi Zaphod,

Your proposal is very good. I will try it immediately.

I only made a small thing today, an oil cooler.

Quote from Maxim_RB

It will be nice to see a third assembly of this model by your friend! Unfortunately, I did a mistake with my oil cooler, it seen from photo. But anyway, the model will be completed) Looking forward for next model to apply skills, obtained in this build. Definitely, it will be something from Halinski. His models, as for me, are engineered better. As for metal barrels, resin wheels and PE parts - my level of build is not high enough to use them. Will use them in next builds)

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As for engine installation - I am not sure it will look "real" from the journal. It takes a lot of work to make it even from the resin set in a plastic model, moreover, the paper hood is very poorly detailed inside. So, when I started this model, I knew, that will not even try to make an engine. Maybe one day, as a separate model, to place it near the model)

Hi Maxim, I don't think this error is serious. You can try filling the exposed white with color, so it won't be obvious. I have the same idea about the engine as you do. I will make a separate model of the engine instead of installing it on this model

Quote from Maxim_RB

Hi, Ferrarifan! Yes, I will use a piece of color to close this white portion. As for Halinski, being much better in design, its not a theory, here is a second model, sitting and waiting for completion. It was very fun to build, got another one, Margaret, complete with laser cut frames and Eduard resin wheels. Will make it after the Messerschmitt)

Hi Maxim, I agree with your experience that Halinski is indeed the best, which is beyond doubt. Unfortunately, this brand no longer exists. There are only inventory items now, and no new products will be published. And its designers have created another brand, so I am very concerned about his new brand, "Card Army"

In addition, I have another Mustang in stock, which is made of coated paper and should look brighter, but the production process may not be so comfortable.

I feel that the paper used for this model is really too thick, which exceeds my previous experience in controlling it. So many seams are not under my control and have a tendency to crack.

Quote from Maxim_RB

I heard about Halinski publishing house closure, but the website is still working and a lot of models are available. If its true, its very sad. Still got some models in wish list, will try to get them soon. Your Mustang is great, but the metallised paper may be an issue. Usually I coat Halinski with two layers of Capon lacquer with intermediate drying. It will remove some metal gloss, but will make the process of work with it more predictable. My Mustangs are printed on a usual paper, not glossy, with aluminium paint. Its good in forming and glueing. By the way, I got drawings of frames for making a Mustang canopy in scale, if you need)

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Yes, same feeling about the paper of this model. Its too rigid.

Although Halinski may not release any more new models, this is really unfortunate news. I don't think it will have much impact. After all, Card Army's new models are great, and they even surpass Halinski quality.

I did hear of someone using varnish to soak drawings before building them a long time ago, and I dare not attempt this.

I have been collecting canopies for a long time, and so far, the number of them has exceeded the models I have collected, so thank you for your information

Today, while preparing to process the metal framework of the landing gear, I encountered something that made me very confused. In a normal way of thinking, the drawings given in this location of the assembly guide should conform to the actual size, rather than requiring scale conversion. But look at the picture. It's really beyond my imagination:

At the same time, I also encountered another difficulty. Using the very thick paper provided in the model could not make a satisfactory roll of paper. After I tried to cut off the layers, the remaining tail could not achieve an integer multiple of the number of turns. It seems that I can only give up the original parts and completely process them myself. I still trust the model designed by Rafal Ciesielski very much, and this time I was surprised.

After experiencing a failure, I completely gave up making the parts provided by the model, measured the dimensions myself, and then made them with 80g paper. The final effect won't be visible until I paint color them. According to my judgment, the thickness of the parts provided by the model is about 200g, If you want to process them, it's almost impossible to complete the task.

Quote from Maxim_RB

I got some ten canopies and 40+ models)) Sad about Halinski, we will see how this new publisher, Card Army, will evolve. From their range I interested only in Yak-7B. Wildcat is overengineered, as for me, P-40 and Fw-190 are reprints of Halinski models I already have. And thank you for warning about landing gear, I will just make a copy on a 80g paper right from the start. Or sand down the paper of the journal, as a possible option. As for correct angles of landing gear - only drawings can help. The model in whole leaves the impression that designer was tired and not very happy and interested in getting the project done perfectly. It first seen on these hilarious seat belts of unknown design. This method of tail section joint, these wheels in a journal are very strange.

My current inventory is approximately 80 models, with the number of canopies approaching 120. And in the past three years, I have stopped purchasing because of the official control measures taken to control overseas packages due to infectious diseases otherwise my inventory may be higher. Because I'm interested not only in piston-engine, but also in jet aircrafts. The design of this model is not perfect, which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing. That's what allowed everyone to do something different, and they all improved it in different ways. Like you said, Wildcat's over-design makes this impossible. I also appreciate your warning about the tail wheel, I will pay special attention to it.

Quote from Zaphod

Hello Ferrarifan,

yeah, I dislike these roll-parts too. It is usually near impossible to get the diameter exactly right, many designers do not take the glue into account and you have an uneven surface in the end.

Your substitutes look great !

Kind regards

Zaphod

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Hi Zaphod, my feeling is that the design of this model is almost completely borrowed from the design of Halinski in this part, because I have just finished it and still remember it vividly. This kind of imperfect design gives us the opportunity to find other alternatives on our own, which I think is kind of fun.