A.E.C 'Monarch' Petrol Tanker (Modelcraft Ltd, 1/72): A 1947 Kit

  • My next project is this vintage kit from Modelcraft Ltd, printed in 1947. The history of Modelcraft can be found on the excellent website of Bas Poolen World of Micromodels


    My original printed kit for this model, which is quite rare, is shown below. I had a high quality digital copy made at the local print shop, so the original remains uncut and preserved



    I have decided to build this as it was printed, so I won't be detailing the inside of the cabin - I quite like the finish of the printed windows. I will add some external details, however. I want this to look like a paper model of the time. I've also decided to colour all cut edges with black, as this will add to the effect.


    I decided to start with the tank and mounting frame.


    After scoring/rolling and folding, I got....

    The reverse face of each mounting frame rail was coloured with a pen before assembly.


    The kit is designed such that the elevation diagrams are used for parts (e.g. wheels). With this in mind, I cut the part that says 'Petrol' from the elevation to use on the rear of the tank.....

  • Armando

    Changed the title of the thread from “A.E.C 'Monarch' Petrol Tanker (Modelcraft Ltd, 1/76)” to “A.E.C 'Monarch' Petrol Tanker (Modelcraft Ltd, 1/76): A 1947 Kit”.
  • Radiator next. The printed part was used as a template to cut out some thicker backing card, slightly oversized.

    These were glued together and the backing card sanded back to the printed part.



    Then a radiator cap attached (scrap plastic rod).



    When dry, this will be sealed with dilute PVA then painted silver around the edge.


    I also made the vacuum tank, tool box and petrol tank. On the latter, I used scrap plastic rod to make the filler neck. I will add straps from spare card when ready to attach to the chassis.


  • Chassis. This was cut out, scored and folded. The instructions recommend using wooden matches to strengthen it. I used coffee stirrer sticks. These will provide rigidity and minimise twisting/warping.



    I coloured the sticks, should any part be visible when assembled.


    I have yet to make/attach the axles.

  • Armando

    Changed the title of the thread from “A.E.C 'Monarch' Petrol Tanker (Modelcraft Ltd, 1/76): A 1947 Kit” to “A.E.C 'Monarch' Petrol Tanker (Modelcraft Ltd, 1/72): A 1947 Kit”.
  • The top of the chassis was coloured black, should any portion be visible after assembly. Here, is shown the fuel tanker mounting ready to be attached.



    Attached. I had to trim the three curved parts to obtain a good fit to the tanker. I will coat this in dilute PVA.


  • Wheels.


    I cut out slightly oversized circles, from scrap card, bigger than the printed wheels.


    I need five wheels (four plus spare), each wheel being made up of two laminated circles. This shows the circles clamped until the UHU cures.


    I then put a small screw through each assembly..... These serve (a) to hold the wheels in clamps until the dilute PVA sealer dries and (b) to enable mounting in the chuck of my drill so that I can turn the wheels down (by combined rotation and sanding) to the size required - that's the theory, anyway 😄

  • First, I used a foam sanding block and hand drill to obtain a circular (flat) profile.

    Then I hand-sanded the perimeter edges to round off the tyre profile. Then I glued the printed wheel on each tyre and blended in the colour with a piece of graphite and then grey pastel.


    The wheel on the left us the 'spare', which is carried under the chassis (so does not require a printed part).


    I will coat each wheel with dilute PVA to seal the colour and print, before varnishing later

  • Moving back to the tanker container..... I decided to detail the top by making the five filling lids (if that's what the are?).... I punched out circles from 1mm scrap card and coloured the edges. Then I punched out circles of the same size from areas around the printed lorry elevation, that wouldn't be required, to get the correct colour.


    These were glued to the card circles and, when dry, attached to the top of the container.

  • The container has four filling hoses printed along the length, two on each side. I decided to 'replace' these with lengths of plastic tube.


    I glued the tubes together, as shown. I will spray these, I think, in red primer to see how they look, before attaching to the container.


  • I prefer the hoses painted in red primer, as shown. Here, I have also added card mounting brackets.



    The end-fittings/couplings of the hoses might be in brass, so I stuck some self-adhesive gold foil (Bare Metal Foil Company) on each end.... The foil conforms to the shape of the hose when pressed in place. The orifice of each hose is then coloured black.


    Here is a finished hose attached to the container......



  • Back to the chassis...... The plan shows there should be two bearers/outriggers that support the rear mudguards, and one bearer to support the rear of the front mudguard. I made these from brass rod. I also made the spare wheel rack from (thinner) brass rod, rather than use card.


    Here, the outriggers are glued in place (after colouring). I will reinforce the joints with additional UHU, when cured.

  • I then realised that the front mudguard bearer would have to be removed in order to slide the rear of the driver's cabin onto the chassis 😮 so I did this. I also attached the tool box (left, below) and the spare wheel and carrier.


    I also realised that the rear driving wheels are doubled-up 😮, so I had to make another two from card. Below, I have attached them and show the front wheels as a comparison.

  • I've started to assemble the cabin. Basically a 'box', with curves that need to be formed on the roof and A-pillars.


    In these photos, I have made the rear of the roof curved..... Not easy 😐

  • Hoi Armando


    Coole Karre...hab mir den Bogen gleich mal ausgedruckt, für den (über-)nexten MRB...kann ja sein, dass nach Vive la France und Mütterchen ich soll's ja nid sagen auch mal na God shave the Queen dran kommt, grins


    Gruss Barni

  • I have completed the basic cabin.....


    The rear bulkhead is designed to slide into the chassis.


    I'm quite pleased with the curve of the roof.

  • Going back to the chassis.....


    The plan says the chassis is as viewed from underneath. However, it is incorrect - the spare wheel should be on the driver's side (right hand drive). I had already made the assembly according to the plan, so I had to remove the spare wheel/carrier and relocate it to the correct side (as shown below).


    This is now the correct layout. I also added some retaining straps to the tool box. I will add a hub to the spare wheel.

  • Container now attached to chassis. I also cut a length of plasticard strip to make the rear bumper.


    This was coloured in black and the number plate stuck on. I had to add two small plasticard brackets on the chassis (can be seen either side of the toolbox), upon which the rear bumper will be glued.

  • The cabin is now glued on to the chassis and the radiator stuck on. Just waiting on glue to cure (which should be quick in this hot weather).



    Rosie has decided to help me......

  • Here, I have re-attached the front mudguard bearer and the attached the petrol tank for the lorry itself.


    I've always liked the 1950s styles of petrol tankers. I decided I would give this one an identity...... To resemble the shiny red TEXACO petrol tankers.


    To do this, I used 5mm white rub-down transfer lettering (edding, 18pt HELVETICA HALBFETT) and Microscale Clear waterslide decal film. First, I applied the individual letters (spacing already worked out) to the clear decal sheet. Then I protected the white lettering by surface-coating with liquid decal film. When dry, this can then be used like waterslide decals.


    This photo shows the decal applied..... It will be protected with a coat of spray varnish, when the model has been completed.

  • I carefully cut out the printed ladder.

    I reinforced the rear of the ladder with two pieces of plastic rod..... Hopefully, these will minimise future bending/warpage. I coloured them to match.

    The top of the ladder was curved inwards as it should attach to the top of the container.

    The lower part of the ladder should be attached to a bearer that protrudes from the chassis - I made this with double-thickness scrap card (see below).

    I won't attach the ladder until the front and rear mudguards have been attached, to avoid potential damage, but here it is shown dry-fitted.

    I cut the mudguards out and formed them into curves. The following photo shows the rear mudguards.

  • Front mudguard attachment to the cabin. Once glued in place, I decided to infill the open space (see photo from yesterday) to make it look better. Using the profile of a front wheel, I measured and cut a piece of scrap card.

    Then coloured it black and glued it in place. The rear of the mudguard is glued to the support bearer.

    Looks okay, and improves rigidity.... I will strengthen the glued joints with dilute PVA.

    Onto the other mudguards......

  • Two front mudguards now attached.

    I also added a little step on each side, for driver and passenger.

    And I made the exhaust from a piece of wire and plastic tube for the silencer. The end of the wire is coloured black.

  • Rear mudguards..... I attached the first rear mudguard after profiling..... These are attached to the two bearers on each side. I also made inner in-fills from scrap card - rigidity improved.

    The photos are taken before touching up with black and strengthening with dilute PVA.

  • I turned my attention to the headlights. These should be domed at the back. I decided to use two small self-tapping screws.

    Whilst I could possibly have drilled holes in the cabin where they should be mounted, I decided against that - not easy to drill a large hole in card.


    Instead, I screwed them into a piece of wood, up to the point where the thickness of the headlamp is as-required.

    I then cut off the head with a hacksaw and filed the rear of the 'dome' flat. I then glued on the circle of punched card to act as the lens.

    These will be coated on the front with translucent yellow glass paint, after attachment to the cabin.

  • I made a couple of rear view mirrors from scrap card. The reflective surface is self-adhesive aluminium foil. The bracket is a piece of plastic rod.

    I also added a thin piece of plastic rod to act as a windscreen wiper. From photographs, it appears there was only one wiper (for the driver).

  • And now the running gear.... I decided to use plastic rod and tube to make the axles.


    The dry-run showed that this combination worked perfectly and the correct wheel height was achieved in relation to the mudguards. After colouring the axles, I attached each wheel and used a couple of set squares to keep them straight whilst the glue sets. Here are the rear wheels......

  • The plan isn't clear regarding the function of parts G1 and G2. I think they are meant to represent catwalks on top of the container. I'm not sure why they are different. I decided to cut the double-step (G2) down to a single-step (so that they match) and glued them on either side of the fillers......

    I added some additional detailing to the five fillers.

    I also attached the nameplate (which is short for Model Petroleum Co. Ltd) and the front registration plate. And the wing mirrors have been attached - I drilled small holes to accept the brackets (glued in place).

  • Modelcraft originally published this as one of their Lineside Lorries plans. I have been sent a copy of this by someone from the Railway Modelling Web, which helps me to identify further details.

    I noticed that what I thought were hoses alongside the tanker are actually hose containers! There is also a set of valves that can be seen on the port side of the chassis - these would connect to the hoses to enable filling of pumps at petrol stations. I made these up using pieces of electrical wire.

    I will glue these in place at the appropriate point on the chassis.

  • There should be two sidelights on the front of the cabin. To make these, I attached two brackets of coloured plastic rod; I then put an excess of UHU on the end and positioned it such that the UHU formed a drop..... When this cured, it resembles a spherical light. The following photo shows one drop applied and cured. I may paint them with translucent yellow (undecided).

    I have also coated the headlights with one coat of translucent yellow paint - another coat to follow.

  • Final coat of translucent yellow..... I think the side lights look okay (also coated).

    I will now varnish the model by hand before attaching the ladder, valves and wheels.

  • Sterling effort it has come out extremely well. Much better than the original sheet suggests. I'm very impressed.


    Doug

    It went together very well, actually. Testimony to the original designers, who had no computers/software to do layouts etc......