Paper Model, Ty2, Angraf, 1:25 - FERTIG

Tender wheel structure

Part#3

Mounted the springs and weathered both sides.

Tender wheel structure

Part#4

the wheel cap.

Assembled, painted and weathered

Fit Check with Tender body

Quote from Maciej Wójcik

Hello Joon!

Very nice model, but tender had a different number and kind of plate. The number was "417" and written by white paint

Source: flickr.com

With best regards!
Maciek

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Wow, Maciek,

Thanks a lot for sharing the photo of the actual Ty2 “110” !!

Although it’s too late to change it, but I fully appreciate your kindness, sharing the photo.

Thanks a lot, Maciek!

Tender Break

Assembly completed

painted and mounted

Problem is… the breaks are barely seen (mostly blocked by the frame ).

What can I say… haha

Levers for tender break

Installed

Rods for break

Starting from thin paper strips

Attached

Painted rods in black

Mock-up vs current status

Quote from Andi Rüegg

Hi Joon

Outstanding. You teach us what perfection is!

Regards,

Andi

Hi Andi,

Thanks a lot for your comment, Andi !

Adding some guard (?) for the break system.

(Based on Draccus’ build log.)

Painted

The connection to tender.

Added magnets matching to what already installed at tender body side.

Tender wheels attachment test.

Ready

Attach to body

Good.

As expected.

Size comparison with Py27

weathering to follow

Applied Weathering at the wheel structure internal.

Before Weathering

After Weathering

Picture doesn’t show the weathering effect that much

And made the mock-up of coal box filler.

Checked and found I don’t have enough coal grains to fill the box. So, need some structure that will go inside of the box and become base for thin layer of coal grains.

And made the structure and installed

Used magnets to make it detachable and snap in to potion when it is being placed.

Coal surface to cover the top

Added the coal top.

Prepare the base that will be covered by coal grains.

The magnets helps the part snap into the right position.

Apply primer, fit check and let it dry

Apply coal grain on top with white wood glue

Completed.

It looks the coal basket is “too full”.

Will consider to make another version later

(when the new version is needed)

Preparing for the rail mass production.

The block is the ‘mold’

Three paper strips to be passing though the hole and glued together

Made two piece (60mm in length), placed on a mock-up base (55mm) and did fit check with proto tender wheel.

Fair.

Comparison of Py-27 rail mock-up.

and then,

Measured the complete locomotive lengths, width and distances between wheels.

Now need to go and find a good wood base.

37 inch (L) x 5 inch (W) x 0.5 inch (T)

Hi Henryk and Krisztián,

Thanks for comment.

just few steps more. Hope all goes well.

Tried different tie sizes and rail clips.

Now, the types, sizes and combinations are pretty much determined.

Also preparing small base for mock-up

Completed the experiments on mock-up/prototype.

Prepared mock-up wood base.

Add ballast on it.

Tried to find the right viscosity of diluted wood glue. It seems 50:50 is giving good result.

Tried to use different ballast types which are both left over from Py27.

Let it dry for a while

Definitely see clear difference.

I like the lighter version better. Will use it for Ty2

Size comparison with Py27

Getting ready for the real base construction.

Need to prepare good wood plate first ( 36.5 in x 5 in )

Quote from Johannes Gründling

Not sure if you already did and just omitted it in the post, but don't forget to add a few drops of dishsoap. It breaks the surface tension of the water making it easier for the glue mixture to penetrate into all the little nooks and crannies.

Thanks a lot !! Johannes !!

Will try definitely 👍

Thanks a lot, Jan !

Will keep in mind.

Made the rail and the clips.

Need many rails to cover 36.5 inch

And found a red oak slab

Need to cut to size and flatten it.

Cutting is completed (36.5 inch x 5 inch)

Next step,

Flatten the slab using hand planer.

I think it’s going to be long process:

A. Red Oak Flattening using hand planer,

B. sanding,

C. Apply Tung oil and

D. let it dry for a while

Although flattening is not completed, did a quick fit check with the loco.

Length 36.5 inch (93 cm)

Width: 5 inch (13cm)

Coming back to hand planning

Managed to flatten one side of the slab using hand planner. It’s first time handling hardwood/oak and I’m learning a lot.

Flattening using hand planner.

Before and After.

As you can see, it slightly bent to the right (last night) and now the right hand side is flatten. About 2mm was shaved off at both ends.

Then sanded using 80, 120, 220, 400 and 800 grit.

Can see the reflection after sanding.

Next step.

Before applying Tung Oil, applied masking tape on the area where thin wood sheets will be bonded.

After Tung Oil first coat, it starts to show the color I was looking for.

A couple more coats to be applied.

Attached thin wood sheets creating the mound for the rail.

Mark position for ties and attached masking tapes for black paint.

Applied black paint and removed the tapes

Prepare wood strips and applied wood stain

Attached the wood strips on positions.

Made a jig that will keep the rail at the center.

Coming back to Paper modeling from woodworking

Attached the rail on the base

Put rail clip one by one

Attach on the base using the jig that keeps the tail in place

Add the connector between rails

Assembly Completed

Took some pictures with the locomotive.

It sits at the middle of the base well.

However, I think the base with can be optimal around 5.4~5 inch. 5 inch is too tight.

Next

Magnets

Carefully attached magnets in place for both loco and tender.

Following picture shows the maximum side angle/tilt that magnet force can hold the tender.

It seems the magnet gaps are well dialed in.

(strong enough to hold the model, but weak enough to remove the model from the base)

Moving on.

Started to attach ballast grains. The wood glue solution is prepared based on Jan and Johannes. (wood glue + water + a bit of dish soap)

Hi Helmut,

Thanks a lot for your comment!

Glad to know you enjoy the build.

Taking longer than I thought.

Anyways,

Johannes and Jan,

Thanks tons for your advice!

Your tips definitely helped a lot.

Thanks, Hajo !

It got somehow dried.

While it is completely dried, added the pipe connection between tender and loco.

Painted

Current status with Py27 side by side

Made the tunnel Gummiwulst-Übergang (or Rubber bead transition) between the loco and the tender.

Thanks a lot Hänschen for letting me know the correct name of it.

Start with paper rings and a napkin paper strip.

Carefully attach the napkin to inner side of the paper ring. Need to be very careful as it’s very thin.

Attach small magnet to have the ‘tunnel’ detachable.

Installed the magnet at the matching location at Tender side and did fit check.

Install and get its shape and thickness when it is in place (compressed)

Using CA glue, gradually drop by drop, get the shape and the size fixed.

Well dried and ready for painting

Few steps more.

Added the water pipe.

Somehow based on my imagination.

Installed the pipe and set the length and the shape.

Ready for painting.

Hi Hänschen,

Thanks for letting me know the correct name. The build log updated.

Painted the pipe and the rubber bead transition.

And applied metal coat on the rail top.

A large scale weathering next

Applied weathering on the railroad.

Before weathering

Applied diluted black and brown acrylic paint.

Applied few more and completed the railroad weathering.

Completed

It took 2 full years to get these pictures.

It has been great joyful learning.

Hope you like the pictures taken under the sun.

Thanks a lot for your comments, sharing opinions and suggestions.

I’ll post some more pictures for a few days before wrap up the Ty-2 build project.