KRAZ 255 B / Renova / 1:25 - [FERTIG]

  • Hello all, let me invite you for a build-story of russian cross-country army truck KrAZ 255B.

    Model issued by Renova - Model / PL /

    - here you get basic info about truck, model, and english version of build instruction AND Corel Draw file for laser-cut for wheel chocks
    /good step to save some time on cutting of about 1700pcs :)/

    Version of Czechoslovak army I am going to build based on pictures from:

    want to appoint that on this forum you can find a Kraz 255B - neat build by JC:

    Renova "Kraz" 255B 1:25

    I am going to make "freestyle" version with patina coat of acvarel colours and chalk dust.

    I am better now to stop writting and add some pictures:

    - both fuel tanks are marked with NM-35 /Nafta Motorova - 35 - fuel description - diesel oil and cetane number - for identification of diesel oil for summer or winter season/, driver´s seat - formed as used one.

    - right footboard incl battery box and can basket

  • Hi Jonny, pls find an example of acvarel colours:…rvy&po=Vodov%E9+barvy

    - great advantiges: low price/linked example about 1,4EUR per set of 12 colours/, can prepare different colour density and tones. When äcvarel colour is dry - surface is rough - better for chalk dust application

    will try to take some pictures while building to "proove" that it is still ONLY PAPER :) /painted and dusted/

    It is normal to own ORIGINAL

  • Hi Johnny, first of all I will attach picture explaining product called by myself chalks / it is realy blackboardchalks/ and picture is showing what needs to be done /milled on sand paper and mixed/ for application on cardmodel part use dry brush....but this will be explained later separately

    Then I have here 3images
    /1 - parts to be formed and glued - Front Fender of KrAZ255B/
    /2 - formed and glued. As you can see there is no need to be precise when forming "freestyle" and you have to form some damages. Added on the top of standard fender holes and pinheads are made of glue dots. Wires were replaced by pencil leads 0,5mm/
    /3 - image of real truck and detail of fender - grey version, but repainted with green colour with a lot of corrosion and small white paint areas on left side of fender - I will try to make it in this way today/

    to be continued....

  • Hello Johnny /and all /, here is step by step painting and patina of KrAZ 255B front fender.

    Previous post was about forming of front fender - now when formed can start painting as follows:

    step1 - black - darkgrey tone for fender sides. May use different tones

    step2 - green /little bit mixed with braun/. Again different tones applied

    for both colours use hight density

    step3 - white and red dots for sides - apply with dry brush with colour on it and corrosion application /orange and brown colours/ very low density - make a dot and put a finger on it and pull away - according to gravity law/

    step4 - apply chalk dust with dry brush and if too much applied pull away with finger /use white dust for making colours lighter/

    step5 - try to compare finished fender with real truck fender - hope that reached result close to real truck

  • CZ: Perfektni navod. Jen se chci zeptat, jestli se papir vodovkama nerozmaci - me vzdycky vystoupila vlakna a povrch byl dost nevzhledny.

    :usenglish: Perfect description. My question is if paper/carton does not soak with watter and let out grains. I have such bad experience with aquarel colors...

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Radek, basicly can say/write

    - less water - better result /high density of tone for basic paint, low density for second layer of paint - details - different tones/

    - small details - corrosion, fuel, oil /low density/ - such small areas can not de-form your work :)

    It is normal to own ORIGINAL

  • Friedulin - thank you very much for your kind words
    Johnny - looking forward to see your works

    Over the weekend I have made:

    -left side footboard /still to be done diesel can
    -outlet /the end is rotten away/
    -hoist /actually did not find from a drawing where to put a part 40f - will check with author/, steel cable will be placed thru the floor in to the loading space of the truck and connected to "sometning" what had been self-loaded. "Something" could be eg another engine or couple of barrels - do not know exactly yet what to put there. Any idea??

  • Hi Bernie,
    As you know I am buiding the Kraz too, but in a "factory delivery" brand new state. Your rusty, used version is amazing and many steps further on the path of modeling then mine; nevertheless it makes it interesting for those who follow our threads to compare the results of both versions.

    Am I right that you were wondering about the location of part 40f?
    On page 11 of the construction drawings (at the end of the booklet)you will find the answer. You will find it on one of my pictures of the front bumper where my hoist cable ends.
    With best regards,


  • Hi JC, thank you for your comment. I do hope as well that these two different ways of building: pure and freestyle will be interesting for our colleagues from this forum

    About part 40f - now I do understand from your description what it is - thanks a lot for help. I did different way -

    - not used a clip for the end of cable to make towing lug
    - used knoted end of cable to make towing lug

    GRIFF: if you find on your cotton roap fuzzes /hairs/ which do not make your cable realistic looking put a glue on your fingers and put the roap in between them and apply on it by pulling away /repeat several times/ - then will be smooth

    Warning - do not use CA /cyanoakryl/ glues for that! Safety first!!

    It is normal to own ORIGINAL

  • ...another elements of frame have been made - backside of frame.

    Smear on towing lug was made with very high density of acvarel colour.
    Back fender elements:
    -here I am not sure if should be white white painted areas - since not available pictures of back side from a truck I am building, bud let them to be white for night drive identification. Have added some corrosion on it and when re-painting - did not try to make accurate line

    Hopefully will be able to finish the frame over the weekend

  • Good Morning, over the weekend did a frame of the KrA and connected all parts on it. Frame is not completely painted and chalk dusted yet, but some parts are.

    As you can see the total lenght of the truck will be 35CM!!! /it is so big that have to arrange for new -bigger- blue background paper :D

  • ...still fine - tunning frame and elements mounted on it.

    Compressed airtank holders will be empty /not tanks on real truck - check image of real truck/
    Black smoke effect from outlet on bottom side of fuel tank.

    Got info from my colleague that laser cutted tire tread patterns /about 1700pcs/ are ready and will get hem next week. Should be in plastic bag collected - not necessary to cut out from the A4 page anymore - only have to spill out and sort :) /looks to me like Cinderella´s job/

  • Hi Johnny, I have never thought that my work could be applied as a

    If it helps - just apply ;)

    It is normal to own ORIGINAL

  • Works on engine started already. This is airfilter.
    Since I have not picture of the engine of this KrAZ225B, I am using as a reference pictures the book of M35 US Army truck "Deuce and Half".

    Air filter is re-painted on green with base darkgrey paint and on sides where close to engine is colour burned-out

  • CZ: Nazdar. Kde jsi sehnal ten laser? Kdyz jsem se asi pred pul rokem ptal po firmach na rezani kartonu laserem, tak mi bud neodpovedeli anebo se rovnou vysmali :(

    :usenglish:: I ask about laser cutting possibilities in our country.

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Zdar, bylo to samozYejm pYes min 2 ruky :)
    Kolegova maminka má graf studio a kdy tam dlal, tak si udlal kontakty po "konkurentech" a jedním z nich bylo i studio z Jiní Moravy, kde to jeho kamarád vypálil, ale kdybych tam doel osobn, dopadl bych jako ty /dlal to mimo éfova vdomí.

    Was not easy to get /allthought this pattern is offered on one e-shop in Czech Rep./, BUT my colleague¨s friend is equipped with laser at work and from here I got it

    It is normal to own ORIGINAL

  • Hello Jan, thank you very much for your kind words and looking forward for your future great works including weathering of used or crashed plane :)

    Today morning finished cooler/still to be done some fine tunning/ where used a net for imitation of real-cooler net. Origin of material I used is not known to me, since got it from my friend who told me that this comes from computer. Honestly I do not know. But the same effect can be reached with footwear

    BTW I made for this year new "scary" Avatar :) /reason of my angry face is that the background is closed fridge/

  • Hello Kartonists, here are images of finished distributor box connected with engine and hoist. Had some troubles to fit on its place since outlet pipes were done by myself not accurate according to drawing of Renova-Model - but now it is OK.

    And one more picture from build of front axle. Have to state that construction of Renova Model is very good. Lot of parts are from 1mm thick "karton" which is guarantee for stability.

  • Hello Kartonists, I am back in here - last week stayed at home with my family and had beautifull time when walking with Emma around our village /allthough my point of living is mentioned Brno - I live in small village close to Brno called Vinicne Sumice/

    ...and when walked around took pictures of crash barriers to make one for my model pad "concrete" panel and crash barrier is finished - all made from paper /panel of card-thick 2mm/

    ...brush used for imitation of cables and pipes for engine and brake system

    ...finaly started works on wheels - this is front-right wheel. Used laser cutted elements which after gluing grinded and the wheel was builded in way to have illusion of not enough air in the wheel - bottom side you can see how wheel "sits" on the table

    BTW - thank YOU very much Josef for your nice words - each comment like this makes me to work in the same quality of work and to add something new to this topic

  • Witam serdecznie
    Powstaje na pewno piekny model. Bernie pieknie go brudzi, robi fajne slady eksploatacji... Widac, ze pojazd w wykonaniu Berniego przejechal juz wiele kilometrow :) I w zwiazku z tymi kilometrami, zniszczeniami i ubrudzeniami nie podoba mi sie wykonanie opon... Maja wysoki bieznik jak by wyszly dopiero z fabryki... A model jest pojazdu mocno uzywanego. Nawet na fotce oryginalnego kraza widac, ze bieznik jest zdarty... A u Ciebie Bernie nie :(
    Gruga rzecz, ktora mi sie nie widzi.... Widac, ze wkladasz w niego wiele serca. Dlaczego wiec nie zrobiles kratownic na skrzyni biegow i na reduktorze ??? Nie uwierze jak odpowiesz, ze to dla Ciebie za trudne :) Czyzby malutkie lenistwo ? :)

  • Hello Wisa, thank you for your critique

    You are right - the tire tread patterns are too high on this picture
    /had a memo yesterday already from Roman Vlach - Czech Rep.- who is making the same model/

    Check corrected version where tried to grind patterns more /better visible effect of low-air-level in the tire/

    I do not understand what "Kratownici" are, but think that you mean small blocks to be glued on distributor box - was not aware when builded of this - but when saw on Konradus this KrAZ…8&t=90776#reply_91098

    knew that did something "wrong"
    My biggest compliment to Jacek for his performance - pls forward to him

    Greetings to you Wisa