Revenge / Shipyard / 1:96

  • Hi,
    the hull of my ship is near complete and the next step is standing rigging. And there arises a big problem: BLOCKs.
    (I will need about 70 pieces of 3mm triangular deadeyes, 80 pcs. of 4mm and 9 other types of blocks.)


    As I wrote previsously, that I've found a guy with laser cutting machine - but that way is impasse. His 30W laser can cut only plastics. And blocks are too small, are too heaten while cutting so the result is useless. Cutting of metal (brass, Cu, Al,...) is impossible. And paper (1mm carton) burns...


    The attempt of hand made was unsuccesfull too. Carton tears to layers while drilled...


    So, if anyone had to solve similar problem - how to make plenty of pieces showed below (the size is from 2,5mm to 5mm), please tell me. All suggestions are welcome.


    Thanks


    Radek

    Images

    • kladka.gif

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

    Edited once, last by Radek ().

  • Hi Radek,
    try the following solution: take a modellers brass tube in the necessary diameter e.g. 5mm with a thickness of 0,5mm, take a flat and tapering plier and press three sides of this tube on one end nearly flat (with small round edges) and sharpen this triangle with a file so that you get a sharp and even edge. Cut from this brasstube with the triangle end a piece of about 4cm and use it as a punch (you can resharp the edges if they become dull!). Punch from your karton the needed triangles and harden this little pieces with cyanoacrylate. Preprick in the hardened little blocks your holes and drill these holes with an electric minidriller. By putting the little blocks in a punched-out hole of your karton, you could hold them safe (you know: the smaller the pieces, the quicker they disappear!). Hope, I could help you,
    greetings from Lipperland
    Hajo

    Ein Leben ohne Kartonmodellbau ist möglich, lohnt aber nicht! (Frei nach Loriot)

  • Hi, Radek! :]


    Beautiful build! She is really looking superb and your fine attention to the details, including the recoloring of the decorations, is awesome to behold.


    I like Hajo's ideas on building the triangular blocks (not sure if they are called deadeyes as they are later on when dealing with the round ones, but it might be the correct term even at this early stage), I have been trying to figure out a similar approach on the Constitution build. I found the same problem when using a drill, and the idea of treating the card with CA is a good solution, I believe. I have also tried using a small set of micro punches (they are actually a set of hard steel mandrals that fit into a guide made of plastic which sets up to a steel base with matching diameter holes). The set I am referring to is by Waldron Model Products, and it is the sub-miniature punch and die set. It works great with paper and card as the guide keeps the mandral square to the paper and you tap it with a small jeweler's hammer, the mandral punches little discs out of the card as it passes through the steel underlying base. I actually use it to make small discs for scratch building other items, but the holes are wonderfully round and precisely made. The trouble is being able to place the card correctly under the plastic top guide as it has a bit of distortion caused by the thickness of the clear plastic guide, but I found using a pin prick in the center of the hole I want to punch helps in placing the mandral at the right location. You can probably make up something similar using pins and a home made plastic guide...it is about 2mm thick, the plastic top guide. I often use it with just the plastic guide and my cutting board as the base, and it works fine too, you just lose the disc into the cutting mat this way.


    I hope I do it right, but attached is a picture of what this tool looks like.


    Hope this helps.


    Cheers!
    Jim

  • Thanks a lot Hajo and Jim,


    My (unsuccessful) attempt was: to drill all holes first, fill these with CA, and cut the triangles after it.


    Now, I'm looking for a brass strip and try to make blocks of metal. We will see....

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Hi, Radek,


    I think Jim is correct. They are called deadeyes.
    Quoting R.K. Battson, Period Ship Modelling, Percival Marshal & Co. Ltd. ,1948:


    " In the 15th century, these deadeyes were heart shaped,, and usually had one large central hole, scored at the upper end for the lanyard, and were called, simply hearts.


    By the 16th century, they were still heart shaped, but had three holes."


    Cheers...John


    P.S., Battson discusses making blocks and deadeyes in his chapter 'Masts, Spars and their Fittings'. He uses siticks of wood to construct them.

    Edited once, last by John ().

  • Thanks John,


    I have known the technology of deadeye making from round stick of wood. Each piece of deadeye is turned and cutted from the wood stick on the lathe. And drilled after it. Another solution see here. BUT these deadeyes are twice bigger than my. That is the problem. I touch the limmits of wood structure, I'm afraid.

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Hello Radek,
    No, in the illustration shown in the above book, the holes are drilled before the deadeyes are sliced from the triangular strip. Side holes are also predrilled for blocks.
    I can appreciate the daunting task ahead.
    John

  • No Jörg, but I have met another guy with another type of laser cutter and I HOPE it will be good way this time. I hope...


    (Anyway, I have bought a Dremel engraving milling cutter and plate of 1mm alluminium... ;) )

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Some new pictures of pinrails and belaying pins. I made decission to build full tackelage (both standing and running rigging) so there will be many ropes to be belayed.


    I'm afraid that the paper&card work is near finished - the rest are ropes, wood, wires... :-(

  • Hi!
    I have finished my ropewalk machine and made some modifications. I have found that I can build all "ropes" I will need, so I have removed some cog-wheels and hooks and use my machine to cap ends of ropes.


    Note: The baseplate is removable. To make rope I use much more longer piece of wood. :) This short one is used only for making caps...

  • Thanks a lot Jörg,


    I have to admit that my ropewalk is as "ropewalk itself" quite useless. I can buy all ropes I need in hobby or midinette shops. BUT I wanted TRY it!
    Now I use my machine to cap ends of ropes, bind and bundle, and made rope eyes.


    I think I will find use for my machine in future when I build wooden model of large tall ship. I hope I build it. Sometimes.


    But now, I'm working on my Revenge. There is plenty of belaying pins on the decks...


    Radek

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Hi!
    I have found the difference between plan of standing rigging and parts nr. 167l and 167p.


    See pictures attached:
    The plan shows eight deadeyes and respective shrouds. But part nr. 167 has nine slots for deadeye strips (and consenqeuntly is longer a bit).
    The main problem is not the number of deadeyes but their positions, becouse the shrouds must not collide with gun ports.


    Personaly, I have made decission to use nine deadeyes and I hope, that all three gunports will be clear ... like on the Revenge of "unknown" builder.


    Radek

  • Hi,


    I have obtained from MiGas laser cuted block and deadeyes.


    The less block is 2.5 x 2 mm, the largest triangle is 5mm long.
    Thicknes of plywood in 1.2mm

  • Today (and yesterday and the next week, probably) is raining in the middle Europe :( . So I've plenty of time to work on her. :)


    The photo shows main mast sanding. With Unimat it is quite easy job (but very, very dusty).

  • Hi, Radek! :)


    You are doing a superb job of a very difficult and sometimes confusing mass of lines...I like the mast jig, just curious what the steps are for and how you figured out the appropriate rise of each step.


    Great job of laying the shrouds over the mast head and flaying them one on top of the other, really looks quite authentic. I can't wait to see the next installment, particularly how you tackle the ratlines.


    All my best,
    :prost:
    Jim

  • Jim: My mast jig seems to be a mistake :( It has not desired stability...


    Peter P.: My Unimat was another (and very expensive) mistake. It serves as a holder mostly. Very good, stable and useful holder. But it was about 500 Euro. :( :(

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Well, I think it is clear to all who look at your photos the jig wasn't a complete failure, the mast work and rigging looks splendid!


    I am embarassed to tell you how many machines or other gadgets have blessed my work area over the years that did nothing better than collect dust, being totally useless for the advertised purpose...live and learn! The Unimat is a nice piece of equipment for certain work, such as the sanding job and maybe even some very light lathe work, but it is indeed a costly piece of equipment.


    Looking forward to further updates on this brilliant build!


    Cheers!
    Jim