Halinski Sherman M4A4 VC Firefly

  • I
    saw this model on their website and liked the look of it so I got
    it,photocopied page and had a trial build of the inside of the turret
    but found that the ribs that are cut from one mill card are very fragile
    and I wasn't getting them good enough to do the model justice. so I
    then got the laser cut parts unfortunately these don't include tracks!

    I live in Wiltshire I thought I would put my own markings on the tank
    for the Wiltshire Yeomanry who had Shermans first at Alamein and then
    regrouped in Syria before moving on to Italy.there is only one drawback
    in that the Wiltshire Yeomanry were withdrawn at about the same time as
    the firefly was brought into operation with regiments based in Italy, so
    I'm going to stretch the facts a bit.

    have the English instructions for the kit and they suggest starting
    with the turret. But I'm going to start with the tracks and hopefully
    the new kit enthusiasm will get me through cutting out all the bits
    have made a slow start on this model doing odd bits here and there
    starting with some of the metal parts at work mainly those that needed
    there are a lot of track parts,there are 200 tracks and I am making some extra as added armour so I have cut 430 track pins.
    smallest bits are some 2 mill square blocks by mil thick I had to cut
    them into strips and then seal the sides with superglue before cutting
    into squares otherwise they were delaminating.the above picture shows the thicker card parts. The killer is going to be cutting out all the holes.

    the instructions for the tracks,

    there are 27 parts that make up a track link times 200 plus I'm doing
    an extra 14. I've booked the padded cell. I might add an extra part not
    sure if it's needed or not which will be a strip of card in between the
    two metal pins just gives more support to the central block the tracks,
    probably will be a case of belt and braces. But isn't much more work as
    the waste strip between the top and bottom parts from the inside of the
    central block or about the right height.
    the rest of the track parts

  • Been thinking about the Sherman
    tracks on the way into work and made up a jig for the connecting bits
    parts 262 262a 262b so here it is, also in the picture is the track tread
    core parts 260 260a

    well still cutting out track, but I did make up
    the tread and two connectors from some photocopies hence the washed out
    colours. When together better than I thought especially the
    connectors.part 262c especially but curling each end and then glueing it
    on to part 262a whilst still in the jig and then pushing in part 262de
    straight after pulled in the curled ends of part262c. Below are the
    trial bits of track.

    do you think I should but a little hex nut head in the centre of part 262c where the printed circle is.

  • here is a link to a Canadian site that shows markings for different tank units and periods
    website shows the restoration of the non-firefly M4A4 Sherman taken off
    Salisbury plain training area just by me. To its original glory also
    shows the multi-bank engine which I think is an incredible piece of
    engineering in itself.
    the next link is to a website that shows all the Sherman types and differences between manufacturers
    there is another site but I can't find it on this computer that showed the unit markings so have to add it to another post.

  • Not much to show progress wise except some pots getting fuller.

    I will have quite a lot of one mill rivets. From all the holes i have
    being cutting out. have used a Japanese book Punch to do the holes and
    I've made up a set of punches to go with it

    Saturday I went and looked through the Wiltshire Yeomanry archive
    looking at pictures from the Second World War to see what names they
    used on their tanks they were usually named after Wiltshire towns and
    pubs. There was not one named after my local town devizes but there was
    one named Moonrakers,named after some smugglers who fooled excise men by
    claiming that they were raking out a cheese from a local pond which was
    in fact the reflection of the full moon, the excise men went away
    believing in the legend that the locals were a bit dim. Once they were
    gone and the coast was clear they raked out the barrels of contraband
    from the pond. So this is what I will put on the side of my tank, the
    following pictures are of a standard 75 mil Sherman, from when the
    regiment was re-equipped after Alamein and they were posted to Syria and
    cleared the Vichy French out from Syria and Iran joining the Russians
    in Tehran. Before moving on to Italy before returning back to England
    understrength as half the regiment had served the four and half years.

    Yeomanry first went out to North Africa as a fully mounted cavalry
    Regiment, they then got mechanised with lorries as Searchlight units
    before getting their tanks, they formed a principal role as past the
    ninth armoured Brigade in punching a hole through the German anti-tank
    lines and helping to hold off a German tank counter-attack, that then
    led to the German rout. The Wiltshire Yeomanry were left with four
    working tanks.here's another tank named after village near me.

    I took a photo of these two pictures out of interest.

    not sure what this second one is of some German tank destroyer?

  • Thanks Glue me
    I meant to post sooner I thought last weekend that I would finish cutting out the track parts

    finished cuting out the iner ends and and treads and just had 7 off
    the above strips of conetor parts to cut out and then the esey out
    treads covering. only cutting the curvy top on the conectors allmost
    finnshed me off my thum was to saw to hold the scalpel any more so
    stoped with thes two left and the tread covering to do to morrow. fond
    thow that i could still cut out some parts to laminat to thicker card
    and lable the laser cut parts juring the week. thort larst weekend that
    with my sew thum i would of had a burn out on the sherman but if any
    think sherman mojo has incresed. Go's back to bounceing a round the
    padded room. sorry for the speling brake down but the vois reconision
    porgram decided that it did not like this page any more.

  • During the week I cut out the parts that needed to the laminated to different thicknesses of card.

    the Roman models tank factory track assembly line was officially opened
    by the one lone employee and track production started with the delivery
    of track parts.

    production started with making up the track treads as shown in the
    following pictures the first three show the making up of the inner tread
    I followed up on Jim Nunns idea and added an off cut down the centre of
    the tread.

    I think as Helsinki designed it is okay, but as you see in the fourth
    picture where i placed an inertread over the strip that will become the
    road wheel it does sit over the centre of the tread and over time it
    might sag with the weight of the tank on it, so to be on the safe side
    over engineer.

    I'd glued up the inner tread in the jig as the mortise and tenants were
    tight I took the inner tread out and squeezed it together with my
    fingers to make sure it was all fitting together well.
    As I was
    cutting out the outer skin of the treads I pre-folded scoreline s search
    just a matter of dry wrapping round in a tread and then applying the
    glue and sticking it on

    then trimmed the length if necessary and then inserted the track pins
    to locate the ends and trimmed if necessary and then applied the tread
    the only parts I didn't precut were the three rivets which are cut out
    the hole punch and apply, which will just leave the edges to be painted.

  • The second picture in your last post looks like a spice exhibition :)
    Good idea to start with the tracks. This is the most annoying!

  • After finishing 40 treads I started on a batch of the connectors

    The back part of the connector is bent to shape and placed on the jig.

    Then the front part of the connector is bent shape and glued on top of the back part.

    The two almost triangular parts are glued in place next.

    strip that forms the part that holds the track rods in place comes next
    I started off by rolling each end round a track rod but the card tended
    to delaminate, so use the ends of a fine pair of tweezers this gives me
    a tighter curl that fits around the pins on the jig.

    A thick square packing piece is quickly placed between the two curled ends to hold them in place.

    final stage is to place a covering piece over the packing piece, which
    completes the Halinski connector. I added 2 glued together avant card 1
    mill nuts as well.

    picture shows some attempts at doing the tack signs fortunately the
    Polish version has the same unit number 52 as the Wiltshire Yeomanry so I
    have turned that into a template most of the attempts on the rear plate
    we using artists oil paint. The markings on the side I made using
    watercolour paints and seem to work better my markings are the white
    horse the square troop marking and the name Moonraker. Plus the white
    smear for a better word down the side for a spilled petrol stain down
    the side I think it works quite well.

  • Well
    an update from the weekend first off the build is going to slow up a
    bit as I have acquired a four-legged supervisor who goes by the name of
    pudding, she is a nine week old chocolate Labrador. She's been banned
    from my modelling room as on her first visit there she left a little
    number two present .

    Back to business painted and unpainted connectors

    two completed sections of track showing inside and outside of the track.

    Completed assembled track so far.

    Yeomanry tack markings added to the front and rear pieces of the tank
    and am going to have to move the telephone box on the rear to the
    outside as on the blank alternate part the white blank for it is in the
    centre and I couldn't fit the tack sign in.

  • well I didn't feel like doing tracks match last
    weekend and didn't have much time and my eye was drawn to the machine
    gun mounted on the top of the turret so below is the weekend's progress.

    had a PM from Jim nunn over at paper modellers who is also building the
    firefly but hasn't yet started a build thread about the length of the
    track pins I premade all 400 pins 17.4 mm in length as mentioned in the
    instructions, and found them to be short when I assembled my track I did
    think it was my building and they turned out to be a millimetre wider
    at 18.4mm. but Jim has found the same is tracks measure 18.5mm so I
    think there must be a typo. The machine gun is finished now will post
    pics at the weekend so it's back to more track at the weekend. that's
    all for now.

  • below are some pictures of the gun mount, ammunition can,and the gun and mount together.

    final picture shows painted on tank name with a little kiwi fern leaf
    that the ninth armoured Brigade could have on their tanks after their
    outstanding work as part of the supercharge at Alamein when they were
    attached to the New Zealand division. And the squadron markings on the

  • there is a slight misprint on this kit the page that has the under hull
    skin on it sort gets lighter and greener as it moves off to one corner.
    Unfortunately this lighter corner contains part 1a , this the baseplate
    to the transmission the bolts onto the front but as you can see in the
    picture below it is a lot greener than the hull.

    gave it a light wash with the watercolour pencil that I'm using on the
    tank tracks ( supracolour 2 soft carand'ache charcoal grey409) but is
    more the dark brown and white off the surplus then awash with the colour
    I'm using the green edges which is the same make a pencil as above but
    is umber 049 over the top is not quite the same but I don't think it
    stands out as much.

    this final picture was taken right after I'd done it.

  • HooooRaaa have finished one track just the other one to do now but
    hopefully won't take as long as the first one and will not have so many
    distractions like digging up Roman archaeology first was digging rubble
    out of the Roman hypercost that was part of a villa that then became an
    industrial complex making glass and extracting silver from lead.
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    second one was exposing a corner or possible barn or gatehouse or a
    back-to-back temple, this corner incorporated a wooden post about 14 in,
    square in the corner the wooden posted long rotted away but I did find
    an unused Roman nail it was in perfect condition with only one small
    bloom of rust on it otherwise it was in mint condition.

    that's enough archaeology you want to some track so here's my completed track

    I'm on track mind here are two old photos the first is from allpar.com a
    website that discusses the history of Chrysler tank Arsenal.
    the second picture is from a Canadian Army photo site http://warphotos.basnetworks.net/
    [Blocked Image: http://www.ukpapermodels.com/a…_sherman_firefly_tank.jpg]
    Aboard a Sherman Firefly Tank
    women and children sitting on a Sherman VC Firefly tank of Lord
    Strathcona’s Horse (Royal Canadians). Harderwijk, Netherlands, April
    19th 1945.
    Photograph by Captain Jack H. Smith.

  • Well when I started the Sherman I promised myself that I wouldn't start
    on the rest of the model until I've made tracks I broke that with the
    50.cal and I done it again now I had a whole day and I just made
    connectors it didn't go as well as I thought and I almost had connector
    burnout the trouble with them is that you think you've made a nice
    number then remember that there are 2 to each tread. So this weekend I
    made up the lower hull of the tank I had already cut out the outside
    skin just to get an idea of the size of the model smaller than I
    thought. The first picture shows the outside skin and the inside skin
    which has been laminated.

    the second shows the parts drain plugs I think they go on the bottom of the outside skin

    part two the inside skin glued to the inside of the outside skin.

    outside the outside skin part one with the extra plate on the front and
    Bolt heads that hold the transmission front on glued on as well as the
    drain plugs.

    the side frames added and the inside side skins ready to be glued in place.

    site skin glued in place.

    part four parts that make up the rear bulkhead of the tank.

    rear bulkhead made up and all glued in place this was not quite as
    straightforward as it seemed as the inside curve is different to the
    outside curve and two strips of card parts 4e and 4d are glued to the
    inside of the outside curve and the inside curve. I glued part 4 the
    inside skin to part 4b after glueing the hatch and top opening with an
    edging strip I then glued these in place the front edge of part four has
    to slide over and be glued to the thickning piece of the floor of the
    hull. I then glued in place parts 4e 4d.4c I glued to the inside of the
    outside skin part 1 and then glued 4c to 4b. I hope I'm not going to
    have trouble as this back part is about 0.5 of a mill, thicker than the

    Cut a peace of card to fit in the front-end just to help hold the shape. well that's all for the moment back to the tracks.

  • Hi,

    this is a very fine work. The tracks and the ma deuce are impressive. :thumbsup:

    And thanks for the interesting infos about the Shermans... I never could understand, why they had such a flimsy small gun.

    Best regards

    Vielleicht kommt der Tag, an dem mehr Leute checken, dass Idiotie nicht links oder rechts ist, sondern in erster Linie daher rührt, dass jemand ein Idiot ist! (M. Tegge)


    Mitglied der Luft'46-Gang

  • Thanks haduwolff they were designed for infantry support and not really as tank killers. They were used as they were efficient to make and certainly Chrysler churn them out quicker and cheaper than their contract with the US government, and the Americans wouldn't use anything that wasn't theirs so they only had some fireflies.Bit of a delayed post being trying to get upgrader speech recognition
    software working. Despite making a jig that allows me to make 11
    connectors at a time 12 if you include the original jig, that does seem
    to make them go better they were driving me a bit nutty. So I decided to
    go in place the suspension nuts to the inside of the hull.

    First to the floor.

    Then the sides and rear

  • It was my birthday not long ago and I had the day off so was able to do
    some modelling and is a treat I would make a start on the turret as
    that's what's the instructions suggested being the hardest part. It all
    went together well starting off by making up the interior skins. Parts
    305 to 305h ,305d needed some trimming to fit and parts 305g/305h fits
    the other way round to how they shown on the instructions highlighted in
    the pictures.

    didn't cut out the hatch openings as I wanted the parts to be stronger,
    the only downside is that the openings to be cut out are harder to do
    when it's all glued up.
    The next stage was to build a skeleton over the built-up inner skin
    using parts t1/t25 as I had the laser parts the cutting out of these was
    fairly easy bit of a nightmare to cut some of these parts out of card
    by hand.
    I did do a test build before I got the laser parts might
    just see the turret on the back of some of these pictures and is one of
    the main reasons why got laser Parts. The only parts not included in the
    laser cut ones are t3/t4 which form the front face of the turret. Once a
    skeleton was all formed I filled in the gaps as suggested in the
    instructions with scrap card I use leftover laser cut card of the same
    sickness but was a bit of a mistake as it was quite spongy and even
    after hardening with super glue was hard to file and the front curve of
    the turret to the top need quite a bit of filing when I came to fit the
    outer skins.

    also added parts 307/307c the lining to the pistol port and part 306
    the lining to the cut out on the back of the bustle that gives access to
    the new added on radio housing.
    And as shown in the last picture I
    added on the base ring parts 308/308b to get the rest of the turret to
    the correct round shape.

  • first two pictures show the turret with extra packing between the skeleton frames.

    Outer skin parts cut out parts 306/306i.

    skin glued in position on top using the turret openings to get it in
    the correct position. The skeleton frames and packing needed filing to
    get a good fit for the outer skins.

    with the pistol port side that I hadn't filed enough and had to cut the
    skin just in front of the white portion for the armour round the pistol
    port and then position the back part around the pistol port opening I
    then had to cut one mill strip to fill the gap in front of the pistol
    port. Final picture shows parts 310 the ring round the commanders
    opening, part 311 around bit below the mantle opening and parts 312 four
    round discs on top of the turret.
    That's all for now have a good Christmas everyone
    On Christmas Eve started the air vent and finished it Christmas morning.

    The inside

    Then did the armour round the pistol port.

    By big jig for the track connectors.

    the radio. mainly set on a military frequency but does seem to turn
    easily to a jazz station. I found I needed to harden the round parts for
    the radio I use super glue for those which worked well and had the
    advantage of slightly glossing the card which is useful on the dials.As
    the hole punch drill I use can rip the card if it is of any thickness.

  • Well I wasn't hundred percent happy with the pistol port side of the
    turret where I had inserted a strip, because it was too small and I'm a
    lazy perfectionist, To some extent i was lulled by the good fit of
    Helsinki kits and thinking that the skeleton frames would be the correct
    size. I was wrong and hence I had to insert strip. well I took off the
    front section of the skin apart for a little bit at the front under the
    mantle opening. I then filed hardened with super glue and filed some
    more cut slithers off with a scalpel and filed again while continually
    try fitting the skin until it matched up with the back half. If only I
    had done that all first I wouldn't have to have done the surgery. I also
    removed the ring round the air vent and the armour ring round the
    pistol port and chamfered the edges and did a bit of filling with some
    coloured glue. The turret looks a lot better to the naked eye but of
    course the camera somehow highlights the slight mismatches that the eye
    seems to blend in.

    Last picture shows the completed radio and all the parts that make up the added armoured bustle around the radio.
    Assembled the armour box goes round the radio no real problems. Only you
    need to watch out if you use laser cut parts to remember to cut out the
    paper patterns for the outer sections of armour as the sides and back
    are stepped and the paper patterns have other small strip of green on
    the top of them I haven't yet glued the radio in place as I got to add
    some wiring and therefore haven't glued the lid on either.

    Last two pictures show the aerial mountings, a right angle piece of
    metal between them and a little something next the air vent on the
    front. I think that's it for the turret now back to the tracks and I got
    a bit of other work to finish off.

  • Well I'm still alive and so is this build i have
    got to complete a reconstruction drawing of a Roman villa so the Sherman
    has taken a backseat but the track is progressing slowly. I have about
    20 more track links to go to complete the second track plus extras to
    mount on the turret.
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    second picture shows Cpl R Young and Sgt GE Murray both of the Fort
    Garry horse repairing the track, Sherman VC firefly tank, Putte,
    Netherlands, October 6, 1944. Unknown copyright library and archives
    Next is the inside fitting the main aerial, I'm going to
    pause on the turret build as I think I've done the hard bit. I'm going
    to start back following the parts in numerical sequence.

    The parts for component five possibly drain plugs?

    Part five fixed in position in the base of the hull, circled in red

    bent up some varying thicknesses of brass wire for the extinguisher lines
    the fuel lines and a pipe that runs round the top opening on the back of
    the tank possibly connects to fuel tanks.

  • As it was a bank holiday weekend I decided to give
    myself a day paper modelling, so on with the Sherman still doing track
    links but I am getting near the end now. So have taken a break from them
    and continued with the tank build.
    First five pictures are the engine mounts parts 10 the two side mounts and 11 and 12 for the rear mounts.
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    Instructions now say to make up the engine as it is easier to fit before fitting out the rest of the hull interior.

    will let the pictures show you the story started off with the central
    crankcase parts 77 to 78 and then moved on to making up the five
    cylinder heads although they are the same they have different fittings
    on them so it is important to keep them correctly labelled.parts 79 to
    88 so far.

  • [Blocked Image: http://www.ukpapermodels.com/albums/albums/userpics/10009/post-1-0-72395500-1316105924.jpg]
    I finished off the relief parts 88 could they be core plugs?Then added parts 89/89a.

    Then parts 90.

    Then added cover plates 91, 91a had a hole in it covering this hole was 91b a tube to take a pipe.

    Parts 92 which are brackets to hold the coil.

    Next move onto adding the coolant inlet or outlet manifolds, this is now where care needs to be taken as they are all different.
    The first is for the top cylinder parts 93.

    Next was 94 and goes on the top of the left middle cylinder looking from the back of the engine.

    And finally for this update part 95 which goes on the bottom left cylinder head looking from the back of the engine.

    So far everything has fitted well.

  • Another update finish the last two cylinder water manifolds part number 96
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    Pic of a multibank engine that shows the manifolds

    onto the intake and exhaust manifolds for four of the cylinders heads
    starting off with parts 97 the centre section and the connection to the
    carburettor pipe.

    Part 98 exhaust manifold with flange for exhaust pipe fitting.

    I'd add some additional detail and added some hex heads to the exhaust
    flange and also the flanges on the cylinder ends for the water pipes to
    the water pump.

    Parts 99 the other side exhaust manifold.

    The completed exhaust manifold the next stage will be to add to inlet manifold.

    that's all for now

  • little bit more progress part number hundred the
    inlet manifolds there is an option to make these in paper or wire I went
    with the paper option as I haven't done this bent paper tube before
    and will have to do it for the exhausts later so a bit of practice.

    I made one of the tools looks like a track removal tool.

  • A bit more of the engine continued with parts 101
    to 104 that make up the fifth manifold this one is slightly different to
    others I did have to trim parts 102 inlet manifolds as they were
    slightly long.

    Some pictures of the cylinder heads dry fitted to the central block.

    So onto the cam gearing houses parts 105 there are 3 of these.

  • Well time to dance a jig pop the cork on some
    champagne and have a party! I have finished tracks, for both sides and
    some extra for spares and a bit of extra armour.

    two completed tracks one showing the inside of the track and the other
    the outside after looking at some old pictures show and fireflies I did
    notice that the cleats on the rubber treads seem to be a lighter colour
    so rather than leaving the cleats the same brown colours the treads I
    painted them with some watered-down steel paint I think it's an

    treads and some track that I'll fix to the front and the side of the
    turret as extra applied armour I may make up some more but I don't want
    to bury the model under a lot of track, armour.

    Surplus treads and connectors

    that the masochism is over until the next tracked vehicle I can relax
    and get back to the engine, and now that I don't have a desk covered in
    little pots I can even get back to doing some of the SD 14 as the a3
    sheets that take up quite a bit of room.

  • Now the track is finished it is back to the engine.
    [Blocked Image: http://www.ukpapermodels.com/albums/albums/userpics/10009/images.jpg]

    And assembling parts 109 which I think is probably the cam pulley if
    it was a conventional engine. Reasonably straightforward only care needs
    be taken in rolling the paper tube that forms the back shaft that it is
    the right diameter.

    The pulleys mounted in place.

    Parts 110 the distributor care needs be taken again with the paper tubes to get them to the right diameter.

    distributors fixed in place with the engine dry assembled to make sure
    that that should bit as were facing the right way as near as possible to
    the cylinder head.

    Parts 111 the coil .


    Fixed in place on their brackets on the end of the cylinder heads.

    Cylinder heads glued to the central block the back of the engine.

    Looking at it from the front.

    And the sides.

    Timing casing and the distributors glued in place on the back of the engine.

    Engine just placed in the back of the tank there is a bit more space round it than I thought.

    That's it for now working on the wiring at the moment for the spark plugs and coils.

  • I got carried away last time and just glued on the coils all facing the
    same way it was only after I looked the illustrations again as I
    realised 2 are facing in the opposite direction so I had to do some
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    three pictures show the engine with the coils in the correct position
    and the spark plug and coil leads in place, I made these and some fine
    electrical wire that had seven strands in it I cut off the excess
    insulation to give me enough for the guide tube I then cut down the
    length except for about eight an inch so I could feed the wires out in
    the right place on the cylinder head ways to shop each colour the wires

    is of the feed wires of the coils fitted this is some old possibly
    galvanised wire that came from a wooden plank on frame ship model the
    wire as tarnish down to a nice grey colour.

    Moving on to the
    other end of the engine part 113 the makes up the drive gear casing has
    been glued to part 112 the back flange and parts 114 the gear ends
    possibly have been glued in place.

    the inside of the real part 112/113.

    three pictures show parts 115 being added these did need a bit of
    trimming and the L-shaped parts were slightly short and a shorter side
    this didn't matter too much as they were really be noticed as it is on
    the side should really come down to part 112 .

    Part number 116 the first part of the drive shaft or went together straightforwardly.

    then glanced back to the instruction sheet assembling this comes a bit
    later on I should have moved on to the water pump so that'll be the next

  • The next instalment water pump parts 120
    the water pump centre front


    centre dry fitted in place along with pipework fitting the pipework was
    a bit harder than it could be as I had glued into place all the
    distributor wires and the water pump pipes, go underneath them but it
    worked out okay.

    wire painted black and all glued into place I use PVA glue the brass
    wire in place starting off with the bottom two houses to help all the
    centre in place with some glue on it I then fitted the others in place.

    Next the carburettor parts122

    Main carburettor body assembled

    The fuel intake part I think

    Two parts joined together

    The air intake valves parts123

    Fixed on the carburettor's

    Mounted on their spacing brackets parts 124

    grear caseing fixst to the engine.

    That's it for the moment

  • Another instalment the carburettor is fitted to the intake pipes

    is where my dyslexia kicked in and I found that I'd put them on the
    wrong way round have been takes facing the back of the engine not the
    front to match up so I had to remove the carburettor is only intake
    pipes and the other way this means that rather than having seems on the
    intake pipes facedown they are now on the top

  • Before fitting the carburettors in place on the intake pipes to the
    cylinder heads I jumped ahead of the instructions and made the engine
    mounts the front engine mounts parts 118 fixed to the side of the gear

    The rear engine mount 121 being constructed

    And fixed to the engine

    Air intake and carburettor assembly with intake pipes fixed the engine

    engine dry fixed in the engine bay just to check the fit and that the
    left side carburettors wants to be bit lower, the front engine bulkhead
    part 13 is also dry fitted

    what turned out to be a fiddly and frustrating little bit of assembly
    fixing up the five throttle control rods levers. Could I get the super
    glue to glue but in the end it seemed to work.

    Starter motor part 119

    And fixed in place on the engine

    Added part 123 a sort of cover on top of the engine.

    this I put the engine back in engine compartment and just placed a
    ruler on top of the front engine bulkhead down onto the rear engine
    bulkhead just to see how it all fitted with the supposedly top on only
    to discover that the carburettors were too high so the moment I'm in the
    process of lowering them all down so the carburettor the top central
    cylinder will actually have to sit on top of the inlet manifold not be a
    little proud of it inlet pipe that is proving difficultust is inlet
    pipe to the top right hand cylinder head looking at it from the back
    where the inlet pipe is a s shape but all that's for the next update.

  • More progress managed to lower the carburettors down a bit but it's
    going to be a tight fit height wise. First up the bracket to hold the
    oil filters parts 126.

    Made up oil filters parts 127.

    out Enrico's method of making paper Rod by twisting up cigarette paper ,
    I use this to scratch make the fuel lines from the fuel pump bottom
    right of the engine up to the carburettors had trouble again getting the
    super glue to work so will have to go out and get some more. I made up
    parts 130 oil pressure valve the bit of brass wire on the front of it is
    to take a sleeve of wire insulation I will fit this when I insert a
    make up the back screen of the engine bay.

    Parts 128 the oil filter fixing brackets glued in place on the oil filters and glued to part 126 with one pipe glued in place.

    Two pictures showing the finished oil filters glued in place on the engine.

    The engine is almost done now moving on to the radiator. radiator carcass parts 131.

    Radiator carcass engine dry fitted into the back of the tank.

    That's all for now.

  • Had most to this weekend on the Sherman so got quite a bit done main
    faces glued to the radiator carcass and the two holes through it lined
    edging frames are cut out ready to glue on. Parts 123

    Edging frames glued on front and back.

    Sides glued on including the fixing brackets which fix on on top of the front engine mounts. Parts 133

    top of the radiator parts 134 , 134 e and f was a bit confusing how
    these two went on I put part134e on the inside and part134f on the
    outside and the two subassemblies of the filler cap, parts136, 137 and
    the top hose fittings, Parts 135 I fixed some nuts to the top of these
    as the printing wasn't that clear on the black .

    Subassemblies fixed to the radiator top.

    Radiator top fixed to the radiator and the two bottom hose fittings parts138.

    engine and radiator test fitted in the engine compartment still fits okay.

    with the fan flywheel assembly the illustrations are not that clear on
    this, need to keep looking at the picture and build at the same time.
    First I assembled parts140 and 140b and fixed to the back the rolled
    tube part 140k. This engages with the starting motor.

    The fan body made up. Just a inner ring to be glued in place.

    The completed fan hub.

    The fan hub and the cut out fins.

    The fins glued in place.

    fan inside the fanguard made up of parts 139. This was fairly
    straightforward just needing care when glueing it up to get it could go
    in the right shape and don't score like I did the two lines running
    across it just blows the corners. It also added nuts around the edge as a
    printed ones didn't show up very clearly. a bit pointless really as
    they will not be seen but they do add to the fan guard.

    The completed fan with the first part of the drive shaft fitted to the front part 141.

    nasty to make return radiator hoses from the cylinders to the top of
    the radiator these are made from some soft wire insulation but was
    difficult getting them bent to shape and cut to length and joining to
    bits together.

    hoses fixed into place the fit isn't brilliant but there is good as I
    can get them without damaging too much of the engine already made.

    and fan guard glued to the radiator , although I haven't actually glued
    to the fan in place so it is free to turn nice touch by the designer.

    Sides and back view with the radiator and engine.

    views of the engine tried in the engine Bay is not much room there now.
    just the exhausts and of the hose from the bottom of radiator to the
    water pump to finish the engine.

  • Last engine components to be done on the exhaust pipes that looked daunting but turned out okay the parts before cutting out

    Start the longer exhaust pipe.

    point I dry fitted the copper rod that I bent up that forms the
    radiator hoses possibly radiator to the water pump the model they just
    show it formed from a single Rod, but looking at the pictures of the
    real engine where these joining the water pump it looks like the pipes
    have been crimped in so I used to length the copper rod and made a sharp
    right angle on on one end of each and then filed the outer face to
    almost half the thickness of the Rod then silver soldered them together
    to look more like the actual hose fittings. I then dry fitted the end of
    the exhaust pipe to check its fit, but they clashed so I had to re-bend
    left hand side of radiator hose so it went slightly lower and wider so I
    could fix the exhaust in.

    The radiator hoses fixed in place

    left-hand side completed exhaust the exhausts are easier than I thought
    to make up I dampen the inside of the exhaust pipe part and then rolled
    it up into a tube and glued the edge bits together ransom brass rod of
    the right diameter once the glue dried I stood to tube up the brass rod
    applied glued to the edges of the gap in the tube and brought the
    segments together one at a time to form the curves in the pipe.

    The shorter right-hand pipe completed.

    seem to have taken these two pictures from the inner side where the
    seems are it would look better taken from the other side.
    Exhaust pipes fitted to the engine and she fired up just fine

    was short lived when I came to fit the engine into the hull of the tank
    it was a tight fit and I thought I'd take the two side fire horns off
    getting it in it did fit the right-hand exhaust is just a little too
    wide so that's taking it off and making it a bit narrower and refitting
    it the moment it's hard against a side and I've got to fit the plate the
    covers a fuel tank in their somehow. That's for the next update till
    then thanks for watching.

  • Made up the ends the drive shaft, as in the instructions they haven't
    been glued to the drive shaft to allow adjustment to fit onto the

    Dry test fit of the engine with the shortened exhaust.

    Views of the completed engine with and without the drive shaft in place.

    The made up fuel tanks.

    And then the steel plates form the side of the engine Bay in front of the fuel tanks I added nuts on for extra realism.

    I jumped ahead and made up the plates that fits the underside of the
    Hull to accommodate the fan and engine. I also added fixing bolts on top
    of the printed ones on these plates as well. first is parts 298 which
    is a cover for the bottom of the fan.

    Next is a slightly domed plate that fits under the engine parts 299.

    And finally to flat plates which also fit under the engine parts 230 and 231.

    Plates in front of the fuel tanks and the plates in the bottom of the hull fixed in place.

    The fuel tanks fixed in place.