AT-AT massiv Wellpape

  • Disclaimer :]
    als meine deutsche Gramatik extrem schlecht ist, werde ich versuchen mein Raportchen in Englisch zu verfassen. Ich will keinem, mit alle Fehlern die jeden Deutscher ins Augen stechen werden, weh tun.
    Ufff....



    Actually the model I built for my son for last X-mass. So the work is done. I just want to share my experiences.


    Motivation. 2-3 years ago one afternoon I build from fibreboard for my son an Imperial Star Destroyer (see picture in attachment). Advantage of this construction is that it's tough. After all this time it still exist and it's still playable.
    Some time later just through pure luck I found the Rabe's Millennium Falcon. It's just masterpiece. I have no Rabes patience and skills but his work made me to thing about new model.


    The aim. Model should be playable again l decided to use fibreboard (Wellpappe). Size should be Lego-compatible but very important the biggest single part shouldn't be larger than ~18x18 cm^2. Why this size? Well, I just grabbed all empty Knoppers boxes from snack-bar in my work very good quality paper, fine corrugated, thickness ~1.4 mm. Another good one were PickUp's (these are a bit smaller).


    Tools: Stanley knife (Teppichmesser) tough job tough tools :-) , some set squares (Geodreiecks), compasses (Zirkel), metal rulers (Lineal), pencil, Calculator (Taschenrechner), spatulas (Spatel) and UHU Holzleim


    to be continued...

  • Hallo,


    nice star destroyer.


    greeting Christian

    Über Mich


    Zu meinen Downloads:
    Sport Fischerboot
    Hafenkran 1


    Aktuelle Projekte:
    General Cargo Ship GDANSK 1:250


    Abgeschlossene Projekte:
    6. JSP "Boat on the Road, Tonnenleger "Bussard", Hafenfähre "Jan Molsen", Mahagoni Sportboot 1:250, Sportboot 1:250, Stückgutfrachter "MS Bleichen",
    Burg "Siegmundseck", Römischer Gutshof, Kirche Pfersbach, Schloss "Hohenschwangau", Azay-Le-Rideau


    Unterbrochene Projekte:
    Kühlschiff "Pekari", Minensuchboot "Siegen, Heizöltanker "Norderney", Bomber "B-17 G - Flying Fortress", Schaufelradbagger, Tower Bridge London, Gundam "Unicorn"

    Edited 2 times, last by Christian Lorenz ().

  • Hey, what a nice idea!
    Looks ... ah, like it should. A Star Destroyer! Cool.


    Greetings, Christine

    :P Ist das Modell erst ruiniert, klebt´s sich völlig ungeniert.
    Aktuelles Projekt: Derzeit beschäftige ich mich hauptsächlich mit dem Schreiben.

  • After some considerations the length of bottom of the body was set on ~22 cm (a bit more than previously mentioned 18, so I made it from four layers of Star Wars Lego boxes).


    The really first step in my construction were feet. The reason was quite simple from one side I wanted to have some real life part to see the size; from other these were the most AT-AT distinctive small parts, from which it could be immediately found, what model I'm working on. As model was meant to be X-mass surprise I did all planning late in the evening/night and cutting whenever. It worked perfect, but would not work for feet.


    I've got from web and books some pseudo Blue Prints. Much later (actually it was too late) I found out that there were huge mistakes on them.
    Still these pictures + some pictures of Master Replicas model from rebelscum and
    starship modeler + SW DVDs were what I used for planning. Unfortunately the really good pictures appeared on rebelscum when I was close to finish.


    Back to feet.
    Bellow you can see the base of feet, than partially glued. When top was covered I measured the real height of whole part. Probably the biggest problem when working with fibreboards is imprecisions in height of finished parts. Using some maths on radii of the top and bottom and the height I calculated the circles from which the cones covering feet should be made.


    Well, my maths classes were... long time ago, so it took my some time. Maybe it's trivial, but in case it could be helpful the way is bellow:



    In my case the radii were bigger than any of my compasses so I draw them in CorelDraw and printed on 160 g/m^2 paper. The lower part of feet on the 4th picture.


    to be continued...

  • Über Mich


    Zu meinen Downloads:
    Sport Fischerboot
    Hafenkran 1


    Aktuelle Projekte:
    General Cargo Ship GDANSK 1:250


    Abgeschlossene Projekte:
    6. JSP "Boat on the Road, Tonnenleger "Bussard", Hafenfähre "Jan Molsen", Mahagoni Sportboot 1:250, Sportboot 1:250, Stückgutfrachter "MS Bleichen",
    Burg "Siegmundseck", Römischer Gutshof, Kirche Pfersbach, Schloss "Hohenschwangau", Azay-Le-Rideau


    Unterbrochene Projekte:
    Kühlschiff "Pekari", Minensuchboot "Siegen, Heizöltanker "Norderney", Bomber "B-17 G - Flying Fortress", Schaufelradbagger, Tower Bridge London, Gundam "Unicorn"

  • Quote

    Originally posted by Christian Lorenz
    look here: http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~sf…/Gallery/at-at/at-at.html



    Einmal habe ich probiert, ein Papiermodel von X-wing auf Wellepape umzubauen. Das Resultat war sch...lim. :-) Der Kleine hat mit es gern gespielt aber meine Erfahrung war besser selbst zu ueberlaegen.


    Triviale Bsp: bei Papiermodel hat mat zwei Konturen von Motoren ein fuer vorn und ein fuer hinten, dazu ein Stuck Papier den man sollte entsparechend um die beide umrollen. Leider so was wurde keine 20 min in Haenden von 8 Jahrigen Burschen leben. Macht man das Gleiche in Wellpape, muss man die beide Profile deutlich kleiner machen und bis zu Helfte des Teil mit Streifen verkleben, dann drinenn ausfuellen und dann obere Teil bedecken. Als Alternative gleiche verfahren wie bei Fuessen, aber das wurde ich nur and die Stellen machen wo keine wird das Model halten versuchen. Sonst die ausere Schalle schnell zerquetscht wird. Geht man dann zu duennen Teilen da habe ich alles aus mehrfach verklebten Schichten gemacht. Es ist gut dann unterschidliche dicke Kartonen haben.


    Wie gesagt das Model soll als Spielzeug dienen.

  • Nice legs. More beautiful when painted. Keep on great job.
    ----kooklik----

    Current design/build: Union Pacific Big Boy 4-8-8-4 1/25 Scale

  • The bottom of the main-body was made from 4 layers (rotation of fibreboard ~45° for each next layer to make it more stable).
    First I built the meddle cage, than added trapezoid walls for front part. After leaning of these trapezoids to sensible angle I measured directly on model dimension of the roof. Btw, walls and roof were 2-layerd, but on the not-closed end the inside layer was a bit shorter (to make fitting and gluing of final wall easier and a bit more precise).


    In the roof of main cage I glued on each side two small magnets from broke HDs (2nd picture). As seen on 3rd picture the covers closing the "boarding hatch" have ferromagnetic screws that hold to these magnets. The floor and the roof are cut on one side. To open hatch, you need to press on this side and than the opposite side is easily accessible. I hope I don't need to explain aim of Lego plate in the floor of boarding hatch ;-)


    The triangles fitting slits between middle and outer cages were also dimensioned directly on the model.


    If anybody would like to use this technique I made some principle error. I should start from trapezoid roof of outer cages not their walls. The way, that I choose, led to nearly parallel edges (on pictures of AT-AT one can see that each edge should build an angle of ~10° with axis of roof).

  • On the first picture (copied from rebelscum) one can see how it's done in plastic (I thing that the picture shows Master Replicas model). Now the next picture shows my imitation of coupling and one nearly finished drive motor and one in parts.


    As on the first picture you can see, the hips are quite thin. In original they were movable on both axis - this to motor and this to leg. As such during making step AT-AT was parallel to ground.


    I couldn't afford to make such thin parts in paper and still hope to have them playable. I also resigned from axis on the motor.


    Last picture shows my scheme. As usually multilayered implementation (this time quite thick ~1 cm). The upper triangle was added to glue whole assembly parallel to body.

  • Short update body with drive motors. I've forgot to add it earlier. The metal parts comes from broken computer HDs I know it's not paper. I did it just to have a good explanation of the question: what can one do with old hard-drive. Build an AT-AT ! ;-)

  • First I made the internal framework of head and the side picture (mirrored). There should be place for some pilot inside and the top of head should be removable. The red line on the 2nd picture shows where I cut both parts apart.


    The lower parts of sideboards were glued on the frame and the upper sideboards were mounted on the frame with Scotch-tape (actually Tesa-tape). Then I took measurements of all 5 strips that should build the roof of the head, and subsequently glued all parts together (sorry last picture is not sharp but I have no better one).

  • Head: before cutting out sideboards I copied them on Xerox and used these copies as patterns for 3D-finish of head.


    The head was connected to body with Phi=37 mm tube (using 2 short chopsticks on each side).
    Afterwards I painted the head in the same grey colour as legs.


    Then... details, details, details...


    I was looking on the pictures I collected earlier and I was trying to add all small parts on the body. As first 4 large shields on the front and back part of main body, then three panels pointing in the direction of head, then all 3 roofs and finally some attempt to make back side.

  • Hello Kris,


    great work ! Looks like the real thing ! Now my 8year-old son ist pestering me to build something like this for him !!


    Zaphod

  • Sooo beautiful model. Your work inspires me to build a scifi model. Congratulation KrisR.
    ----kooklik---

    Current design/build: Union Pacific Big Boy 4-8-8-4 1/25 Scale