[completed] Messerschmitt Bf 109E-4 and Bf 109 T-1

  • Very good catch on the stabilizer post - this is what makes threads like these so useful, and interesting!


    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

  • Thanks Leif for your kind words!

    I am not happy with part G2a in the T-1, meant to join the stabilizer root with the fuselage. The upper white strip blocks the openings (see a) in the stabilizer. So just cut it away. The lower white part is simply wrong in shape and size. Away with it! What is left is a strip that is ideal to join the horizontal part. Two small self-made tabs glued behind the vertical parts will do the rest. Fortunately, part G2 is perfect in design; the final result is a smooth transition between stabilizer and fuselage.

  • I agree - great job and this is a very interesting thread seeing the differences in design technique. After just finishing the Modelik BF109, and having the T1 you are building here, this thread has inspired me to add the Halinski kit to my build list - I just need to come up with more time for building. If only I could figure out a way to not have to do this pesky work stuff ;)

  • Thanks Dansls1 and Josve!

    ....a favorite? Difficult to answer that question. It's like you say: the approach of these models is sometimes very different and with the very solid frames that characterise the Halinski models one feels safer at first, but... until now the final result is very satisfying in both cases. The E-4 has a very attractive color scheme and it's not the fault of the T-1 to have these 'night shade colors'... Sometimes a question mark arises for the presentation of the T-1, for instance: when you chose the option of separate rudder and separate tail planes, you are asked to cut these pieces out of the original parts -a tricky business given the very dark background that shows hardly the outlines. We will see later that this could even become a serious problem for the nose section: no alternative parts for the different options.
    One small mistake in the T-1 instructions: the rudder frame is build from Wf8-->Wf16 (and not Wf10-->Wf19).

  • Quote

    Originally posted by jcvandenbergh
    ... Sometimes a question mark arises for the presentation of the T-1, for instance: when you chose the option of separate rudder and separate tail planes, you are asked to cut these pieces out of the original parts -a tricky business given the very dark background that shows hardly the outlines. We will see later that this could even become a serious problem for the nose section: no alternative parts for the different options....

    I actually figure that I will purchase the Gremir version of this kit when I go to build it so I can print replacement pieces in case of mistakes. This is even given that I purchased the printed version.

  • Hi JC,

    Very nicely built models! @) :super:


    Original von jcvandenbergh
    I see shot down Spitfires and Hurricanes, but the fifth from the right? No idea :rolleyes:

    I think the symbol is a bomb and the word beneath it means "Halifax".
    I might be wrong, so, anybody who knows better, please correct me.


    nothing's impossible, the impossible just takes longer :D

    Edited once, last by Dennis1993 ().

  • Interesting! It is a pity that this word is indeed hardly readable.If "Halifax" is correct this could mean he shot down a Halifax bomber -as an easy target- but not during a pilot to pilot fight.

  • Yes, Zec, like you, I prefer the E-4 colors..but as I said before, it is not the fault of the T-1 to wear such a dark dress...

    Finished tail sections complete with elevators and stabilizer struts. The design of the struts of the T-1, with the built in wires, is far preferable over its E-4 counterparts and results in a more 'slender' and more streamlined look.
    Please note that:
    -T-1 strut parts are wrongly numbered 11 L/P,11aL/P and 11bL/P in the instructions; this should be: 12L/P, 12aL/P and 12bL/P.
    -parts G3aL/P (not in the instuctions or diagrams) must be folded to fit the shape of the hinges and then be placed at the rear of Wg11L/P.

    ** unretouched pictures at www.strangeplace.com/forum/

  • Bitte nicht böse sein, die Modelle sind extrem sauber zusammengebaut bisher, aber ich finde, die K-Version sollte in der Anleitung unbedingt folgendes stehen haben:

    "Schnittkanten färben vor dem Einbau"

    ansonsten, wie gesagt super, aber wegen der dunklen Farbe fallen die Kanten auf.

    Nächstes mal wirds immer besser, natürlich

    If you don't care where you are, You ain't lost

  • Whoa, I don't think JC needs to be reminded of edge-colouring...

    But you're right in principle - getting those edge-colour nuances right is a tough job, and you keep learning all the time. It is said that you should aim for lighter, rather than darker nuances. However, I don't know - it seems to me that this is good advice only for light colours, like the E-version, while for the T-version my guess would be darker, rather than lighter nuances (if you can't get it exactly right, which is almost impossible).

    And isn't it the case, that sometimes a visible joint may be more due to a small amount of visible remnant glue reflecting light more than the dull paper?

    I imagine this can be ameliorated at the final stage by carefully varnishing the complete model or section with a matt or semi-matt gloss. Isn't that one of the advantages of varnishing - that you actually hide the joints and all glistening remnants of glue?

    By the way, I actually like the darker T-version better, so far into the build. Perhaps because you haven't seen that version before. And I do admire this entire effort very much.


    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

    Edited 4 times, last by Leif Ohlsson ().

  • I am enjoying this build very much. Both models are looking very nice.

    I am holding my opinion of which version I like better until I see both models complete. I think I liked the cockpit of the Halinski model better, but I don't know that you can really judge the overall plane until you see it with wings, prop spinner and sitting on it's wheels.

  • I like your comments -like I said before I am nothing else but an amateur who loves this hobby and I don't have any pretensions about what I present to you in this thread... the fact that so many of you follow it so closely is more then enough reason to go on with it.
    Maybe these visible edges (I do paint the edges in what I think to be the matching colors) are partially caused by the artificial/flash light that is indispensable during these dark days. As soon as the weather will allow me to I will return to daylight pictures...But I want to keep learning :]

  • I have noticed also that flash can make an edge that has been colored look like it is not.


    best regards
    mit herzlichen grussen


    In Build:
    Panzerkreuzer Infanta Maria Teresa

  • JC,

    I'm enjoying your parallel baubericht. . .It's like getting two reports for the price of one. Haven't seen many 109s presented in splinter camouflage, so I'm favoring the T-1 for now.

    Fur meine Deutschen Freunde: Bitte, wie sagt man "splinter" auf Deutsch? Ich kann die Ubersetzung nicht finden.


    "Think small."

    im bau:
    Douglas M2 mailplane

    auf dem Bucherbord:
    FG Me-262; DCM Bristol Scout; Ta-152-C; FG GeeBee R-1; Leonardo's "Ornithopter"; "das Phoenix"

    Edited once, last by cbg ().

  • I have started the wing sections of both models. The center wing section of the Halinski is a puzzle that took me hours to understand (I am not that smart :D ), in the first place because the part of the diagram that shows its construction is in my view absolutely not clear in this case and in the second place because there are some serious mistakes in the numbering of parts:

    -the part that I marked as 'a' is not W23aL but W23 aP.
    -the area of W23aL marked 'b' is not the printed side but the unprinted backside of the part; parts W23aL and W23aP must be placed in the frame with the printed side towards the center.
    -the part marked 'c' is not W23dL but W23fL

    Taking advantage of these hints may save you time...

  • What went wrong in the design of the center section of the T-1 ?(??
    Wire X16 must be 'sandwiched' between three layers. On my picture, the bottom layer is already in place and it is obvious that the demarcation lines ('a') for the wire are totally wrong, just like parts W19a and 19b ('b') that will form the middle layer, the one where the wire passes through. (The diagram is also wrong: W19a must be placed to the rear of the wire, W19b in front of it.)
    Now all this is very easy to correct (all you have to do is change the dimensions of the two rectangular middle parts) but... how can this happen? Maybe the location of the wire (which is exact compared to the connecting wing parts) was changed during the designing process?

    On the second picture: working on the E-4 wing frame (that I discussed already; sorry for all this criticism :().

  • On the Halinski kit, why is the printed portion of W23aL and W23aP on the inside? It looks to me like it should be the coloring to correspond with the cutout for the control surface, so you picked the wrong mislabelled W23aL to change the number of, and it should be in the middle of that former 'sandwich'.
    As I don't have the kit and that's only a guess based on the diagram and picture you have provided, but I'd double check that you don't have the coloring on the wrong side at this point. If so, the easiest fix is to probably just cut the very back portions off and switch the sides, if that framing is all glued together at this point.

  • I know exactly what you mean, Dansls1, and of course it was, like you, my first thought too that the colouring had everything to do with the control surfaces and would have to be on the outside... It is a pity that you do not own the kit, because you would see like I did that nothing will fit with the colour facing to the outside.
    -W23aL/P must be on the inside of the sandwich: the slots (a) on their insides (that would otherwise be covered) are meant for W23t** (b) that will form a bridge between them and I have already checked that in my construction the distance between W23aL/P is now exactly right.
    -The profiles for the oil coolers (c) between the first and second former are in the right position and facing towards another as they should.

    As far as I can see it now, the colouring could have something to do with the oil coolers that will be built in at these locations - I can't check it out yet right now or it is an error and it that case I can add the colouring very easily.

    One final possibility is that I am totally wrong myself :D

    By the way: thanks for studying my thread with so much attention.

  • Thanks for the clarification Rafal - hopefully it's not too late JC...

    Ah - oil cooler, now that could require coloring too. I'll tell you, while I don't own that Halinski, I have spent hours studying the build diagrams of the ones I do have, and every time I look at them I find at least one thing that I learn about how to build them. They truly are puzzles, but from the results I've seen - worth it. I'll find out soon - I started cutting on the Mustang III as my first Halinski last weekend ;)

  • No, it is not too late! I will show the result soon. I should have been studying these parts more thoroughly. This diagram clarifies everything. It is so clear that is could (or should?) have been part of the instructions. Thanks, Awot and Dansls1!

  • That is a nice feature! Could be incorporated in other models as well, when needed. - L.

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

  • Both wing frames together with the outer frames of the T-1 temporary slipped onto the center part and the E-4 frame ready to be "filled in" with the remaining parts.

    -You can now see the considerable difference in wingspan of the two versions: 11,08m. for the T-1 (the T-1 being a carrier based aircraft the longer wings were needed for a safe approach) and only 9,90 m. for the E-4.
    -The model of the T-1 has many extra options to choose from apart from the basic version; we have already seen the cockpit interior and the separate control surfaces.
    Another option is to add the inside of the oil coolers, therefore a section in the frame must be removed (see "a"). You can also build in the wing machine gun compartments between the two indicated ribs. (see "b"). Therefore a part of the frame must be removed over the complete width and replaced by the compartments. Unfortunately it is not clear at this stage where to cut and how to cut. I suppose this has to be done when covering the frames, otherwise my frames will fall apart.. ;)

    p.s. where the T-1 instructions state that "marked parts of ribs W 23, 24 and 26 should be cut off" when choosing the separate control surfaces version, one should read "W 23, 24, 25 and 26".

  • They're both looking great JC! Despite this being my first post, I've been following your thread from the beginning. I'll continue to watch your progress with much interest. I can't wait to see these two birds side by side.

  • Bad luck, but good catch. Perhaps you can find a suitable piece of wood block, or even better a bit of plank, with one surface straigth enough for cutting. Secure the plank and put the framework across it so that it rests on the piece you are going to cut.

    A kitchen meat cutting plank or something like that might do the job, if the edge is straight enough. Or even the edge of your working table, come to think of it; the wing pointing upwards and downwards. You might wish to put a small piece of floor matting between the edge and the piece you are cutting.

    Will be interesting to see how you manage. Best of luck. - L.

    Dankbar für die Gelegenheit auf Englisch schreiben zu dürfen, kann aber Antworten problemlos auf Deutsch lesen.

  • Perfect hint: I found an old wooden levelling ruler. Placed on my desk in a vertical position is was an ideal support for the small portion of cardboard that I had to cut away. So no more fear for the progress of one of my two babies... ;)