Modelik Od2 (P4.2) [FERTIG]

Yu, you are 100% right :). When I say "punch", I mean press vertically. Depending on the knife position, I get a bigger hole (knife more horizontal) or a smaller one (knife almost vertical). The latter is better suited when cutting along a small radius line. Perhaps I could call it "digital cutting"
No, the blade is not replaceable. It was made from a out-of-use steel see-saw. I sharpen it often with an appropriate stone. It is good because it lasts for ages. This particular knife is already some years old it looks set to last for another decade!...
I'm sure my mom will be most pleased with your best regards I didn't serve her with tea and scone. Instead, I helped her with a 2000 part jigsaw puzzle she is joyfully putting together :rotwerd:

Some more details...
Curving thick card, as it is visible in the last picture, can easily lead to disaster. To avoid that, I delaminate the card in 3 or 4 layers (the card often chooses the exact number before I do...), curve each one, glue them together and trim the excess on the inside. With this method you get a stable and stiff curve.

Greetings from Portugal, Wiesel, and thanks for the exaggeration :rotwerd: :rotwerd: :rotwerd:
Work on the locomotive is going smoothly
Curving the walkways is easier because there is no card. Each section has two parts, both of them to glue on paper. Instead of paper+card+paper, you have 2x(paper+paper). I made some transverse cuts in the reinforcement, to make the curves more easily.

Not easy, Yu! It is a pretty cartoon puzzle by Hugo Prades, named China Town 8).
Regarding the roof, you can see in the picture that there is no secret weapon. For a change, I just followed the instructions The only interesting point is that the vertical inner face of parts 89h should be painted black. To fold such long and thin parts I half cut (or a bit more than that...) them with the well-known-special-all-purpose-knife. Note that the knife's tip is slightly rounded and not very regular. This may be helpful in punching the paper without exhausting it...
I used the punching method a lot to make card and paper ducts. Hopefully, one of the pictures is self-explanatory

@ Josve - well, no and yes The paper has double thickness, also in order to be painted on both sides. With such small parts I glue the inner and outer paper with cianoacrilate. As it is both strong and stiff, it surely helps when cutting...

There is something not very logical in the locomotive - the moving door has a black frame, inside. The windows frames are drawn but not painted. I noted, after assembly, that they don't look very well and added black frames inside.

Hi David! Thanks for your comment and please forgive my poor English :rotwerd:
I guess you are referring to the narrow card strips below the platforms? Well, they are a sandwich of (red) paper + card (0,5mm) + (black) paper. They add up to something close to 1mm. The coloured paper parts come with the kit. After making the sandwich and painting the edges, I gently try to curve it. If the radius of curvature is big, it goes well. If not, as it is the case, the sandwich breaks out. Collapse can come in 3 different ways: the outer layer breaks due to tension, the inner layer buckles due to compression or the various layers (not necessarily the paper/card interface, because of the glue) separate, due to excessive shear stress. It is this last one that is useful because each of the layers is much thinner than the sandwich, and allow a small radius curve without collapsing. To force the layer separation, I curve a bit in one direction, then on the opposite and so on, inducing collapse by fatigue on the card. As you see, I don't throw layers out ;). Just separate them, on the section to be curved, curve each one and glue them back together, in the curved position. Try the method at the extremity of a bit of a narrow card strip and see what happens - with a standard quality card, it starts to delaminate quite easily.
I hope the explanation is better than the first one. If not, please feel free to make any more questions

There are not many parts left to cut and 75cm of railway are already waiting for a train!

I am almost there, John The last assemblies are not part of the kit but a rather complicated plumbing system. A lot of delicate work...

Thanks, Tino
And yes, after 75cm of railway, with 308 parts, 2403 parts on the model plus 2936 rivets and close to 5 months of sheer fun, the train has arrived :yahoo:

Well, let's go on to the (many) pictures

Some more...

...and more...

...and a lot of details...

...yet more...

...and still more...

...and the last ones.
I hope you enjoyed the report as much as I enjoyed the build

Many thanks for your very kind comments :). Next, I'll get back to buildings: Merino's Burgos Cathedral.
@ archangel1 - the best method is to sharpen the knife often ;). I also use to pass the nail over the edge, to smooth it off before painting. It usually helps.

Thanks for your kind words
Looking forward to your speedy recovery, Hartmut

Nice picture, Yu, and thanks for the post

Glad you liked it, jcvandenbergh
I'm following your Messeschmitt squadron (well, almost :D) closely...