GPM, 8/2003, Heinkel He-111, 1:33

Hello,

Hey everyone! It's been a long since.. Nice to see you all again

Ok, now to the model:

HEINKEL He-111

Short History

In the early 1930s, Ernst Heinkel decided to build the world's fastest passenger plane, a lofty goal met with more than a little skepticism by the German aircraft industry. To make matters worse, he entrusted the development to the Günter brothers, the fairly new and untested company.
To everyone's surprise they delivered on the promise, delivering an aircraft superior to the already fast Lockheed 9 "Orion", that their design was competing against. The first example of their soon-to-be-famous Heinkel He 70 Blitz (Lightning) rolled off the line in 1932 and immediately started breaking record after record. It cruised at almost 200 mph (320 km/h), even though it was powered by only a single 600 hp (447 kW) BMW V1 engine. The elliptical wing, which the Günther brothers had already used in the Bäumer Sausewind sports plane, before they joined Heinkel, became a feature in many designs, the brothers developed subsequently. It was only a matter of time before they turned their attention to developing a larger and more powerful twin-engine version of the Blitz, producing a plane that had many of the Blitz's features including its elliptical wing with an inverted gull wing, small rounded control surfaces, and BMW engines. With location of the engines - the only notable change in appearance. The new He 111 design was often called the Doppel-Blitz (Double Lightning). The design immediately attracted the interest of the Luftwaffe, who were looking for any design that could be pressed into military service. Plane was renamed to He-111 and the serial production started. Within the time, plane was upgraded more and more. This was the most important Luftwaffe's medium bomber at the beginning of WWII. It is known for its performance ir Battle over Britain (almost a symbol of BoB). Because this plane had pre-war design, it's utilization faded from 1942. But this aircraft was still built until 1944 for other tasks.
Ok, I don't want to enlarge on this too much. Overall, this is a very interesting plane, with some interesting, but complex forms. I'm going to enjoy this build.

Also I know, that there were many versions of He-111. The magazine tells, that this is a H-6, but I found, that H-6 was a torpedo bomber, while this model is equipped with bombs. I don't know ... I hope, that within the time being we will find out more about this model (maybe a polish translation of text will help )

About main characterstics:

Characteristics

Crew: 5 (pilot, navigator/bombardier, nose gunner, ventral gunner, dorsal gunner)
Lenght: 16.4m
Wingspan: 22.5m
Height: 3.9m
Wing area: 86.5 m²
Empty weight: 7,720 kg
Full weight: 12,030 kg (Max. take-off weight: 14,075 kg)
Engines: two Jumo 211F-1 liquid-cooled, inverted V-12, 986 kW (1,300 AG) each
Max. speed: 400 km/h
Ceiling: 8,390 m
Max. range: 2,800 km with maximal fuel

Armament:

Guns:
Up to seven 7.92 mm MG 15 ar MG 81 machine-guns. Some replaced to: 1×20 mm MG FF cannon (nose) ir 1×13 mm MG 131 cannon (behind cockpit).

Bombs:
2,000 kg outside and 1× 500 kg inside, alternatively 2,000 kg inside.

Depending on version the armament type, quantity, fuel capacity, range ant other parameters may vary.
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Comparable aircraft:

Polish PZL-37 Los
English Vickers Wellington
Americans B-25 Mitchell
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Production timeline:

Bf 108 - Bf 109 - Bf 110 - He 111 - He 112 - He 114 - He 115

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This aircraft starred in some movies (mostly war-movies). Offcourse, it was not as popular as C-47 or B747, but still, this is an achievement.
This plane was used in many other countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Romania, Slovakia, China and Spain. Moreover, this plane was produced in Spain by CASA company (renamed to CASA 2.111, but still, it was nearly the same aircraft) and used for local tasks even up to 1965.
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Pictures:

First pic shows Heinkel over London. Fortunately, it didn't destroy Big Ben

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I started this model because of our lithuanian forum's contest (or as we call it "Group Build"). We elected the topic - WWII Germany, and consequently I started this project. I have aquired this model long ago. I had many choices for the contest (like B&V 138, Me-329 or even two smaller fighters like Me-262 + FW-190). The greatest Heinkel's opponent was Ju-52. But after some discussions with fellow modelers, I decided to leave it for the future, because Junker would consume all my summer (it is a VERY compelx model). I have to finish the model till this year's December.
Model looks quite nice. Nice printing, detalization, colors, paper and so on. It has a minimal weathering (some shading). I don't know anything about fit, but we'll see. But I sense, that this is going to be a good model. Still... there're pics of a complete model on the magazine's cover.
About "improvements": I really don't know.. Maybe I will do some scratch detalization, according to schemes and pictures, but I'm not going to do any major conversations or big works - like light illumination. Maybe spinning propellors Remeber, that I used lighting and extra detalizaton in my previous projects, like SR-71 or P-38? By the way, I did not forget my SR-71. It is not finished yet, but I'm going to distribute my time for both models, that SR-71 would have at least minor progress.
Since this is a big model, I will have quite a work on reinforcing it. Thanks to my friend, who provided me with some special (thin, easy to work with) plywood, special foam, that I can't find it anywhere to buy (USSR legacy ) and other materials. He acquired this stuff long ago. Mostly from abandoned soviet airport near his home. If I was building small AFV, tanks or cars, I wouldn't have such problems. They are small, don't have large area's, big weight, areas under stress (like wings, bending down within time). But... since I love huge models, I have to do something with this. Also I was thinking (but only just thinking) about removeable wings. Just for better storing. And the last thing - we'll have some fun with this complex cockpit.

About model:

Magazine: GPM
Issue: 8/2003
Release date: 2003
Part count: Don't know. If I find out - i will post.
Difficulty level: 3 from 3 (according to GPM)
Lenght: 50cm
Wingspan: 68cm
Height: 14cm
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Pictures of magazine:

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It should look like that :):

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And this is from what I was choosing for Group Build (There are no Maly Modelarz or some other rough models). But still, those vehicles were just to add to "German" topic. Mostly I build airplanes (maybe in future I will take ground vehicle).

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Thats all. Within the progress I will post more information about plane itself and model. Good luck!
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:twisted:

Hallo freunde,

Thank you for such nice comments and warm welcome. I am so happy to see all those friendly faces on those small avatars again I have updated my pic also, because the previous one was 3 years old 8).

Jorg, Martin: Thank you Pics are OK now.

pawell: Thanks for nice greetings to Lithuania Yes, this is quite a difficult model with some complex forms. A real headache will be eliptical wings and their attachement to fuselage - probably the most complex place of a model. Greenhouse will be another challenge also, but I will show it later. I will start from tail.

cmelak: Thank you for expalantion about this. Now it's getting clearer

Tino: I have analyzed your model's every dot in your photos. I was surfing all forums for the pics and yours were the best. I have learned many things. Your model is really good. I wish I could achieve such level =D>

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Now I want to make a little introduction into this build. I advice to read this topic to every amateur, that is going to the higher level (since I'm just an amateur, trying to get higher, this topic is very important for me).
So I would call this message:

"Changes and new discoveries"

First of all - what is the deal? I haven't discussed with many modellers about this, but I have talked to my fellow modeler Donatas (he's like my teacher) and ex-modeler - my fathe. For example, Donatas can be proud of his cardplanes collection. He has more than 30 precisely made models. And what about me? I was building "Lightning" allmost for two years (offcourse, I had a break, because I was finishing school; final exams; etc.). And if I don't change such tendency, after 5 years I will have two more models in my collection. That's not good. So, the time has come when I have to limit myself and make some changes. Ok, I totally agree, that everyone must push himself to the limits of perfectness. But let's take an example: without limiting yourself, you can build model for ten years. But this gives you more minuses than pluses. Simple - even if the model is super-detailed and accurate, but on the other hand you will have only ONE model. That precious time will be gone forever (life's short), and you will add only one model to your collection. Besides, there are more bad sides. As we work with paper, it has a bad feature to decay. Plane's nose will be rotten after ten years, when you will be finishing tail... It is common to varnish the model after it is finished. So during that decade, your not-varnished nose will decay.
To sum up, I want to make model FAST. I want to have large collection of models, that are quality too.
So, this time I am not going to pursue that "unreachable" perfectness. I'm going to put all my knowledge and skill in making the model of the "Lightning's" quality, but several times faster. And thanks to all those online forums and their members who helped me to gain this knowledge.
I have defined quite a tough schedule for this model, but I'm not telling it here, because I may not make it on time. Also I have some thoughts to make some articles about basic paper modelling, and advanced aircraft modelling from A to Z (the article would focus on this He-111). But this is quite misty, because I haven't even finished this model Maybe in the future. It will depend on the final result of He-111 and my free time. I will write it in Lithuanian, and then translate it into English.

Thats all. I think this is an important topic, because it becomes sad, when you think what will happen if you are not increasing speed. Besides, it adds some difficulty, because you must make it faster while retaining the quality.

So for today I will show two photos with plenty of things, that will help reaching my goals.

What's new?

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Some untraditional items to paper-modeler.

1. Miraculous glue - "Moment". You should know it, because they are universal yellow glue (see, german label), that have quite a smell and no WATER in composition, that moists paper and makes us go mad.. You can glue frame parts on cardboard, do other works and your paper will never get wrinkly. They dry much faster than common white PVA. But you must be careful with it, because you can easily make ugly stains on your model.

2. Foam. Similar foam is used for fishing. Various floats (for fishing poles, nets and "live" catchers with crucians). It is NOT sea foam. It is similar to filler "Macroflex", that is sprayed out and dried. Offcourse you get additional work with the foam, but it makes model much stronger (oh, I haven't mentioned, that I use it fill voids in wings, fuselage - to make model more rigid). This is a rare material. Mostly stolen from USSR.. offcourse I'm kidding. Oh you don't know what was going on in USSR. Stealing was common. Once L. Brezhnev said, that if a man needs something, he can allways steal it. Fortunately I was just a kid then. I grew up in independant country, so I am not spoiled :]. But when I run out of this foam, I will try "Macroflex".

3. We call it "aviation scaleboard". But to make things clearer I will call it a thin (1mm) plywood. It is much better than cardboard. It does not DEFORM. The toughness of the wooden framework is some times tougher than cardboard framework. Besides, when you have very sharp and thin parts, this plywood retains rigid and strong, while card begins to crack and so on... Also it is much easier to work with it. Easy to sand. Again, thanks for Donatas that gave me such rare materials (foam is also from him). But I'm running out of this plywood also. We need some alternatives. I heard that Poland's model shops have a wide choice of such plywood, so maybe you will have them also, but, here in Lithuania, we have none. I was thinking about plastic PVC sheets. You know them? They are white sheets of plastic, there are various thichnesses. Our food containers (like margarine) are made from very thin PVC plastic. Fortunately we have such materials in our country. Oh, I have seen such things in Belgian model shop in Hasselt (i think it is called "Broux"). So these are materials, that are alternative (but better) than cardboard.

4. Stick Glue. You can easily glue frame parts to cardboard, plywood or some other material. Very fast and waterless way. But they are mostly suitable only for thickening parts

5. Bison Wood glue. They help, when working with wood. These glue are based on common white PVA, but they are more advanced. Faster drying time, stronger joins.

6. Watercolours. Very comfortable paint, toxic-less. It is very easy to mix colors, easy to paint. Very easy to clean palette, bottles and mostly IMPORTANT - brushes. You save so much time! You don't need whitespirit or other toxic stuff. Again, you do everything faster because you don't need to bother with difficult brush cleaning (just put under the tap - and thats all), you don't have to ventilate rooms from fumes and so on. Everything is clean and fast. Oh, I suggest to use not dry or liquid aquarelle, but the viscous one. Then you can make it a little stiffer, what helps you in modelling. As you know, the stiff aquarelle paint are not a good idea in painting. Painters make up to fifty layers with aquarell. This is not a good idea if you want to save time in modelling As an alternative I see acrylic, gouache and tempera. But I am a friend of aquarelle, because I use it in university and for painting (I do it sometimes).

7. Natural hair brush. Perfect coverin, but you should know, that they are only suitable for aquarelle. You will kill them if you use them with enamels or other toxic paints. There syntetic or bristle brushes should be used.

8. Oil pastels. For edge colouring. This idea was given by our lithuanian forum's admin. He has the whole collection of them, but I think that you don't need them all (unless you draw with them, but I, personally, don't like oil pastels). So I advice to everone, who want to try pastels - take your paper magazine, go to art shop and try to find similar colour (I give 90% that you will find the suitable color, because it is a very wide choice of oil pastels). But ask only for TOP quality. Like these "Van Gogh". And that way you will save money, because you don't have to throw away a bunch of money at once for the whole set of oil pastels. And don't mix oil pastels with soft pastels (also known as chalk). These are different things. Soft pastels are mostly used in plastic modelling, mostly for making exaust stains and other weathering.
I haven't met the faster way to paint edges. Maybe felt-tip pencils. But I do not advice them, because color changes (and it may change from nearly red to green) in time and spoils the whole model. Also I should say, that after painting with oil pastel, you have to rub paint with your finger and be careful of pastel's excess. You can easily smear the part. After finishing painting edges, you have to wash hands. And at last, I must say that oil pastels are thinned with turpentine (if somebody need it).:)

As you see, I have mentioned word fast five times. I hope, that this will help me to make things faster and retaining the same quality:)

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What's that? These are things, that I don't need anymore. Toxic paint. They consume much time, during which I could build a bomb or two

As you see, I am more and more using "non-sport" technologies (they are so-called in Lithuania, Russia, Poland..). Less pure paper, more other materials. Some of you can blame me for that. But I can still call my models - paper, because they are based on virgin polish magazines, not scratched from wood, plastic or other material.
As our model shopkeeper, during our community meet, said: "Models are fraud. Every model is lie, because we will never make a "model". Except 1:1 copies. But they are still just copies.. Just look - we don't cover SR-71 with titanium, we don't put radars into model ships that track planes ad so on. Besides, we have scale, and some things are impossible. We do not build parts, that are 1cm size on real plane. In model they would be microscopic.. We just make models for our pleasure, so why I should be limited only to paper (oh, we are allowed to use wire and clear plastic :D, so why I cannot use wood, plastic or even tin).
Resuming to "Non-sport" building. Unreinforced model won't live long. It is easy to say for plastic modellers, because their models are made from durable material. But.. we're kartonists. As all know, paper is not a very durable material... Just look at your bookshelf and see the books that are older than 20 years. How do they look like?
However. This is not adaptable to every model. Tanks, vehicles and small planes do not have such problems, because they are small, they don't have large areas or high stress areas. If they are well varnished, they will live for ages (hehe, but tankers have other problems, that we, aviators, don't have). But I love LARGE models. Imagine the huge GPM's B-52 made ONLY according to instructions. After a year or two, his wings will sag, large areas will have dimples. Model will be destroyed. So we must reinforce it if we want to rejoice afer 5 or more years

So much the philosophy. I think that this post will be interesting to many of you. I am eagerly waiting for feedback and comments. if you have questions - feel free to ask here.

Good luck!
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P.S. The idea of this message is not to increase the time, dedicated for model (in account of your studies, work and family), but to do more during the same time.

pawell,

Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge.

1) Unfortunately we do not have such spray-glue here (or I'm clumsy enough, that I hadn't found one)

2) Makroflex in our country is a foam used to fill in seams, when you insert new doors or windows. they also are heat insulators.
I mean not spraying "wet" foam directly into model. Sinci it expands rapidly it may tear apart the whole framework... but I have seen this done in model ships. But in my case, I advice to spray the whole foam in some box, and then just take little by little, cut, sand and so on.
Currently I am using some vintage foam used for fishing floats, floats on nets of "live" fishing with floats, that are attached to swimming crucian fishes (they lure predator fishes, like pikes). Makrolfex is just an alternative in my mind But overall I want to strenghen the model, so I am looking for various reinforcment solutions.

3) I totally agree with you about water-based paint. Well, I haven't rejected enamels yet. I'm going to use them for same purposes, like you do.

4) Oil pastels. At first sight it looks good, but we'll see later, when my model progresses.

Thats all. Thanks again and good luck!
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Ok. A little update.

Firstly, I forgot to capture how I was building the wooden framework, but I will do it when I will be doing the fin.

So what I was doing today:

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Very nice framework design. 10/10 score for GPM. I have filled it with roughly cut foam (approximation with hand, but since it is not very hard, you can shape it a little with fingers)

I sanded it on abrasive disc.

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And a layer of paper (whatman, ~160g/m^2). Like my fellow wooden ship modeller would say - "black" planking (term used on wooden ship models). Now I have a nice base for skin parts and overall good toughness. Besides you can see various "forms" of paints I am successfully using them.

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Thats all. Good luck
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Hallo,

A little update.

These are hinges for moving surfaces:

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Wooden framework. I suggest using special wood PVA when working with wood. For example "Moment Wood". In my case it is "Bison Wood".

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Fully assembled fins. I have showed their frames with foam before. They are really strong, because of foam and other techniques used. I think, that they covered the framework quite nice. Besides that "grey interior" was white, so I had to mix colour and paint. For such places I used "Model Master" enamels for plastic models. Aquarelle is not very suitable, because here you have to paint large areas (not just edges).

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This is a video showing why wood is better than ordinary cardboard:

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[Click the image if you want to see the video]

Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo

Thank you for comments.

Tino: Wow, it is nice, that you have the whole building review. I'm surely gonna to study it throughout. As from first photos it looks beautiful =D> =D> =D> I love your model. It is always very interesting to see other models, when you are building the same yourself.

About translators - I always use them, so you can write here in german also. I know some great online translators.

Babelfish (No. 1): http://babelfish.altavista.com/
Google: http://www.google.com/translate_t
Polish-English (check this out!!): http://www.poltran.com/
Russian-English: http://www.rustran.com/

Ahh those formers. They are always too big. I suppose, that authors allways leaves them, because you can always sand (but never add :D). Moreover, as I am strenghening paper by thickening all "fuselage skins" from inside with whatman (160g/m^2), the diameter shrinks even more, and I have to sand off quite an amount.
I won't enlarge on this technique much, because it was explained in my SR-71 topic, here in kartonbau.de.

Tino, can you explain this more in detail:

Quote

Originally posted by Tino
Also there are one tread in this forum were you can see a list with more advises.

What advices do you mean, and where are they located?

Oh, and Tino, you have a very nice portugese forum. I'm going to check it out more.

Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Thanks for comments =)
I see how many problems are caused, when you build german plane. We cannot fully avoid the so called symbols :tongue:

Now some progress:

Everything just "thrown into one pile". Seams will match better, but as I checked, it can do even better... well - shortage of experience. Also I managed to spoil a little that blue bottom area of the fuselage. Since color is rather light, just a little drop of glue or whatever else can make an ugly smear. Lack of experience again. The same is with P-38's bottom. One thing makes me happier, that when everything will be in place, those smears won't attract one's attention very much It seems, that I wash hand often enough, but I think i need rubber gloves :rotwerd:

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And I finished tail parts. Everything was glued with that holy yellow "Moment". You must cover BOTH parts with it. Let a minute or two to dry. Then you can easily touch the glue without even smearing your fingers - it seems that glue is dried, but for real - it is not. And when you touch the parts - they bind hell strong. I nearly teared one of my parts, when I was trying to deattach it after positioning incorrectly. So this should be handled with care and everything will be brilliant. Besides this, glue does not moist (and deform) paper. It has no water in composition, because it is nitro based glue. One more thing, that should be cared - are these elastic glue "strings", but if you find the right way how to work with, they won't be a problem anymore . Even if a string falls on part, you can easily take it off.

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Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

I've been absent for a while, but model was progressing. Just it was nothing new to show here.

So I started my favourite place - the cockpit. The edges of the seat are sanded and rounded. Seat is awaiting for general painting. The "wire-seat" is unfinished also. Moreover, some detalization for all these parts awaits. At least I will make safety belts according to real photos.
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Fuselage. I would like to have nicer seams. Besides, blue bottom is blotted in some places. I still lack some skills. The color is quite light, and I always have to spoil it :/ I must be more careful about that.
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Tailwheel well. You can see, that the main seam is quite ugly. I lack nicety. In addition, I have read, that paper edge, before connecting, must be sanded (like this /), than just straight cut out with knife (like this |). So this way, the paper will connect much more precisely. Paper thickness is the main problem here.
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One of the segments. With a gunner nest and many windows. I added frames to panel instruments (like I did in SR-71 or P-38). Those instruments were framed with painted wire. Glass was imitated by putting a drop of Humbrol ClearFix.
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Thats all ;). Now I will have less time than before, but I won't stick. Well, I had holiday since Christmas (January was our university's exam session, but it was very easy for me, since I have finished all subjects before Christmas. My average mark is 9.8 ) This disbalanced me a little bit. Now back to routine, but routine has good influence on humans
Good luck!
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Hallo,

Thank you Jan

Now I want to ask your help. I need interior photos. Please help.
I've found plenty of He-111 photos, I also have some literature, but there are mostly exterior or diorama positioning photographs For example, I need the back view of instrument panels, pilot's seat, nose gunner's/bomber's "bed", etc. - this is a rarity

Photos can be even from another model (like this photo):

[Blocked Image: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal4/3501-3600/gal3592_He-111_Ulgur/03.jpg]

This is the best photo I've found... Besides, pilot's seat is different, that given in GPM magazine (mine, and this plastic plane are both H6). I'm getting confused :rotwerd:

Oh, and if you find anything with swastika, then PM me.

Thank you for help. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Ernst, thank you for the pictures

However, pictures are still needed
I found out about plastic model - it is from Monogram. Well, Monogram is not the No. 1 producer in the world, and it may have some misunderstandings and mistakes.

So Ive allready noticed some differences between GPM and Monogram for example gunners/bombers beds are different. Pilot seats are completely different too. I dont know whose fault is here: GPM, Monogram, or that plastic modeller (I havent done anything yet :D, but with such a lack of information I will make larks too...).

Ive noticed, that some modellers here are very interested in historical accuracy. Im getting sick with this disease too.. :tongue: I am looking, searching and reading. Im curious about how everything looked like, how everything was done, where everything was placed and so on . Currently I am curious about interiors (engines, landing gears, wheel wells, etc. too), but I suspect, that soon I will put such emphasis on whole model (I mean exterior). But not now

OK, so if you find anything interesting, please show here. I appreciate your help very much

And some progress:

This technique is very helpful not to loose small parts. I use double sided adhesive tape. Moreover, it is very comfortable to paint those smals parts when they are attached. And even this tape can be used to laminate frameparts on card! This tape is VERY thin and is great for thickening parts.
Oh, and without proper photographs of bomber's bed and that brown seat, I have allready improvized... Oh well...
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Close-up. A little revolution in edge coloring. I paint them AFTER the part was glued together. This applies to smaller parts, while bigger ones should be painted before glueing.
I have glued them edge-to-edge (without connecting stripes) with contact adhesive (that yellow moment). Very easy and quick. I love that glue
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Seat. Still not finished. I need safety-belts :/ OH! And compare this seat to plastic one. Fiasco!
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8199.jpg]

Hmmm, I dont even imagine, how those instrument cups should looke like. What size, shape and so on..
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I dont know what this instrument is for.
I did not like Humbrol ClearFix for making glassy look. Why? When I made frame, and filled it with ClearFix everything looked smooth, but when it dried, it settled down and became coarse. So then got angry and inserted the small circle made from clear plastic sheet.
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8189.jpg]
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Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Thanks to both of you. All that information helped allready (or going to help in the near future)

So now - a little update Currently I am detailing interior of cockpit. I am really thankful for pictures and schemes, that you (and other guys from cardmodels and lithuanian forum) provided.

Seat and "bed". Seat is still unfinished. At least I found out how to attach belts (see that incision in the middle of the back-support - this is the belts' "root")

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8323.jpg]

Instruments' framies. I made them from PC network cords. Those copper wires inside are really thin and suitable for such work. In the background you can see seatbelts being prepared.

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8318.jpg]

Painted. I love that adhesive tape (Leif's method :P)

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8328.jpg]

These framies weren't used. Mostly because of incorrect thickness (this was before I discovered PC network wires).

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8321.jpg]

Pilot's main panel. I made a little scratchbuilding (according to this scheme: http://www.wunderwaffe.narod.r…ine/AirWar/01/Draw/10.jpg ) . That white material is plastic styrene sheets, that plastic modelers use for scratchbuilding. They come in various thicknesses. Superb material because of its solidity, even in such scale. In this case, paper would get frayed immediately.

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8333.jpg]

And future plans. I am going to finish the panel soon and start building the panel's back side. I will use plenty of materials, because those instruments' cups come in various diameters. For bigger (and square shaped) ones I will use paper. For smaller I will use various cords' plastic insulations and so on. I will do this according to superb photos of one american guy from cardmodels He provided me with some really nice panel back's shots. Moreover, I will do some wiring, that come from those cups to interior walls. Well, I'm not sure where they travel, but I will try to find out.

Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Since me, and my friend are doing the same model at this momemt (with the very similar techniques), so we share our work and experience afterwards He will use my experience how I built fuselage, while I will look how he assembled those really tricky wings. I think, such information sharing can really help avoiding upcomming disasters

So today I've nearly finished instrument panels. Only glasses are left to insert. I searched for many methods how to make glass, but the best one is to use hole puncher and plastic clear sheet. For example, I did not like Clearfix, because after drying it sags down and becomes rough. Enamel and acryl varnishes are not suitable too. I didn't like the result either. And one method was nail varnish. It might seem good, but when it dryes, it becomes like lens and simpy distort the view. So I will make small clear circles and then insert them into framies with PVA. One such circle can be seen in my photo. Oh, and when punching them with those hole punchers, one gets bossy. Thats ideal for instrument glazing!
Furthermore I want to tell what I did. I have attached those wire frames with superglue. And then I painted the insrument insides in black and added needles and other stuff with 000 paintbrush or even needle (or the end of toothpick). I also wanted to add screws, that are used to attach each instrument, but I assumed, that this is SOOO much work, so much time wasted, and the result can be unsatisfactory, because you always get messed in such scale. Oh, and I remembered, that we are building "frauds" and cannot make 100% real copies. So I calmed down, and made it as it seems best for me.
About historical accuracy. It was very very difficult to determine which source is the best. American guy's photos show one, GPM is offering second, my black'n'white schemes show third, and IL-2 Sturmovik computer game shows fourth! (additionally, He-111 pilot's secondary panel looks absolutely different in IL-2 Sturmovik - see! And we call those games "simulators" Offcourse, that game is awesome)

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American guy's photos. Instrument situating is a little bit different than in that black'n'white scheme. But mostly I was refering to these photos, while those hanging "appendicitis" were made according to those schemes. So.. as you see - a little bit of improvization Eh.. whatever..

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/PanelRight.jpg]
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[Blocked Image: http://www.wunderwaffe.narod.ru/Magazine/AirWar/01/Draw/10.jpg]

IL-2 game. That overhead panel is absolutely different than GPM offers. Because I found a round 0 information about that overhead panel, I left as it is. Only I've added frames. The same situation with the throttle quadrant (it is still without sticks)

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/il-2.jpg]

And now, time comes for back "cups". I will try to do them according to those photos plus my improvisation

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/MainPanelRear.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/111-2.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l137/thevid/images/he111.jpg]

It is difficult to judge, because different information sources are showing different facts.

Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Pawell. Thank you for this nice tutorial. It is a pity, that I haven't read this forum for quite a time, and I only noticed your message after the belts were finished and glued in position. I will DEFINATELY use this technique on my next model.
Your seats in those photos are fantastic!!!!! I hope, that someone would invent some immortality potion soon, and then after several thousand years I would be able to reach such level of quality. =D> =D>

Ernst. Thank you for fantastic pictures. They will help me alot =D> =)

So. I made the pedals. What can I say - GPM was offering actually not a very accurate pedals. 22 parts should have composed seat and pedals. I raised that number up to 50 by removing, modyfing GPM's parts, and, offcourse, creating my own ones.

This is the photo, that I used to make pedals

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/Pedals.jpg]

Offcourse, it is very far from real world's copy , but I hope, that I made a little step closer to reality. At least I made those pulling rods, pistons, hoses and so on.

So That blue color is absolutely out of touch

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8386.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8384.jpg]

All painted and I'm adding pulling rods. I dont' know how to call them, but in Lithuanian, we call them "traukes".

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8391.jpg]
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Finally everything composed, painted and connected with seat. At last I've found out how belts are made, but I missed the technique pawell offered Next model will be better

Here I will put some photos. I've experimented with lighting, but despite that, I didn't manage to get the quality I wanted. Well, maybe, this is so, because my camera is an old and nonpro one, furthermore, I did not find the right place to shoot - nearly all photos are made from the shady side - but it was just impossible to normally approach from the right side at my home. That is because I used windowstills. Moreover, I don't have the right lighting, lamps, etc...

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8397.jpg]
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And some small parts, that I am currently working on:

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8389.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8462.jpg]

Thats all. Good luck
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Hallo,

A little about the building of the "greenhouse".

These are precisely cut frames. I painted the edges, and other places, that in my opinion (because of my/ or GPM's fault) should not be visible, but will be visible I mean the inside of coloured part, near the window openings. You see, when I attach interior siding, that white can be still seen from inside.
As I've allready mentioned, I am making this model together with my friend Donatas. He's a pro. So he's going to mould the whole nose! (Those ~10 centimeters). While I will go the "glazing" way. I will use smaller or bigger sheets to cover all the windows. For the next section, I will use connector stripes, but for third section I will probably use the edge-to-edge glueing method.. We'll see. This is a very difficult place, and this is a really difficult challenge for me

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8421.jpg]

Former

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8371.jpg]
I loved that aviation plywood (~1mm thickness). Such formers, if made from card, would be useless! It would break and bend while putting it into section. While wood is very very STRONG and it is easy to work with. So, I roughly cut out the inside of it and sanded with electric grinder to perfect look. And outside of the part was cut out by leaving the reserve of 1-2 milimeters. Then, on the electric abrasive disc, it was sanded to the black line. Understand? Then I painted it, and I have a nice and tough former.

This is a pic by Donatas. He is sanding the part to shape:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/331/044cp2.jpg

Watch the video, how tough is the former. (Click the picture and wait till the movie is fully loaded, otherwise it can lag while watching).

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/th_IMGP8372-2.jpg]

And finally I made the throttle quadrant. I added the sticks and glazed the instruments.

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8377.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8375.jpg]

Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo,

Well. Weekend is over. Next week I am returning to my studies, plus I will have more work after this lost week due to my illness. It was great to be lazy, but despite that (at the beginning of this week) I hadn't neither strength, nor wish to work on model with +38.7C body temperature.

Here the first section is complete. Just windows are not yet cleaned. But after everything is finished, I will clean them. Fortunately I managed to avoid super glue fumes from condesing on windows by applying constant wind (with hairfan) while glue was drying.

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8450.jpg]
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I added (but not glued yet) that recently finished seat with pedals.

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8460.jpg]
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Thats all. Good luck!
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Hallo kisboti,

I am sorry for delayed answer, but my internet/forum surfing, modelling time, and overall freetime was reduced by the works in university.

Here's my unfinished architecture work. It was made by ink (or so called tool - rapidograph). It is still dull and in the need for character (including background, shadows and so on). You can compare its size with a simple CD

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8940.jpg

Now your questions. Yes. You can make lighting - this would even be very beneficial. But I really cannot tell you whether the lights existed or not... Where were they placed? How did they look like? I haven't found such information in any literature, that is available to me. Offcourse, it is minority, but this frustrates I know. Well.. I am not doing any lighting this time. I really hope that it will be possible to see anything in that darkness :D. On the other hand you can simply try to put a small lamp or LED, that has no technical or historical purpose, but is just used to light up the interior. This is my suggestion.

Moreover, it would be EXTREMELY difficult to beautifully implement a lighting in this model because of the scale. Lets say in my SR-71 or P-38, such things were possible, but He-111 is the other case (just imagine, how are you going to place lamps in that thin instrument panel?).

Here you can find my unfinished SR-71:
Flymodel Nr. 31, Lockheed SR-71 "Blackbird", 1:33

For P-38, unfortunately, there is no build-review.

And tommorow I am going to update this thread with new photographies! For now, good night
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Hallo!

Here I have finished the "bomb-box". I should blame designers for making those walls colored only from one side. I had to paint them all. Moreover I didn't like the printing flaw. As you can see, there is a color mismatch. And such mismatch exists ONLY on this part. It is more a graduation between normal and mismatched color... But it is so visible. Why this part??? Why!!? And only I have such a problem, for example Tino's He-111 was smooth

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8744.jpg]
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[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8737.jpg]

And... I made a second "green-house" section. Despite, that this is a very complex part, I managed to make it so-so =)

[Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP9008.jpg]

Thats all. Good luck!
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