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Ricleite

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1

Wednesday, March 28th 2007, 9:55am

Nakajima Ki-44 Shoki - GPM

My next model :) Surely more complicated than an average building...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C01.jpg
  • Ki.44-C02.jpg
  • Ki.44-C03.jpg

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2

Thursday, March 29th 2007, 9:35am

Thanks for your posts, Sparrowhawk and Airgoon :) I choose the Ki-44 because it is a rather recent kit and the aircraft is a pretty one, with something not very big behind a huge engine.
The kit is rated as difficult but many parts are optional. You can make the cockpit or not, there is a simply printed engine if you don't want to assemble over 100 parts for the engine alone...
Construction starts with the cockpit.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C04.jpg
  • Ki.44-C05.jpg

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3

Friday, March 30th 2007, 9:39am

@ Airgoon - I'm afraid you'll have to wait a little for the finished model. This is not the kind of kit that I can build fast :rotwerd: :D

I enclose a few more pictures of the cockpit.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C06.jpg
  • Ki.44-C07.jpg
  • Ki.44-C08.jpg

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4

Friday, March 30th 2007, 9:46am

Hi Ricleite,

A real excellent work!

=D> =D> =D>

Greetings Friedulin

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5

Saturday, March 31st 2007, 12:44pm

Great choice of aircraft Rick!
I really like your way of doing the tiny details!
Looking forward to follow your build!
"I'LL BE BACK"

Johnny Svensson
PAPIRMODELLER.COM

In the workshop
LeFh 1:16 DrafModel
T28 1:25 DrafModel


Finished builds.

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6

Saturday, March 31st 2007, 10:27pm

At last you build a plane :super: .
A little hint for the small levers in the cockpit - you could place small drops of glue on them, to make the knobs look more plastic.
LG
Michael

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7

Monday, April 2nd 2007, 9:50am

Thanks for your posts, guys :)
I'm trying to make the model as 'paper' as possible. The idea of putting a small drop of glue on the small levers is good but I wonder if it will be visible! As you see, I was somewhat too prudent when cutting those levers :rotwerd:...
Not so much on the lateral panels. They need a bit of patience and a lot of luck :D
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C09.jpg
  • Ki.44-C10.jpg

zec

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8

Tuesday, April 3rd 2007, 7:38pm

Quoted

Original von Ricleite
The idea of putting a small drop of glue on the small levers is good but I wonder if it will be visible!


I´ve done the same with the levers in the cockpit of my Sturmovik - for sure you have to paint these drops after hardening, but in my eyes it looks better.
zec has attached the following image:
  • IL2m3_075.jpg
LG
Michael

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9

Wednesday, April 4th 2007, 9:51am

@ zec - you're right, they look great! What glue do you use? For these small parts I use cyanoacrilate glue and it doesn't like pen markers...

@ Airgoon - no tricks, indeed. I enclose a picture with the tools I use. Unfortunately, the (very efficient) hole-maker is too big for the tiny holes on the lateral panels :(
Ricleite has attached the following image:
  • Z-corte.jpg

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10

Wednesday, April 4th 2007, 9:54am

I enclose two pictures of the cockpit, as it is now. The pieces joining the two rear bulkheads are not part of the kit. I added them to make the assembly a bit stiffer. The rear bulkhead will, probably, have to be painted...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C11.jpg
  • Ki.44-C12.jpg

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11

Thursday, April 5th 2007, 9:30am

Moving on to the engine. In the picture, you can clearly see the thickness of GPM's paper. Almost armoured!...
Ricleite has attached the following image:
  • Ki.44-C13.jpg

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12

Monday, April 9th 2007, 9:33am

Moving on with the engine...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C14.jpg
  • Ki.44-C15.jpg

zec

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13

Tuesday, April 10th 2007, 6:59pm

Quoted

Original von Ricleite
@ zec - you're right, they look great! What glue do you use? For these small parts I use cyanoacrilate glue and it doesn't like pen markers...


Hi! Unfortunately i don´t know how this glue is called in english, but in german it´s called "Weißleim" or "Holzleim". This glue is mostly used for glueing wood.
LG
Michael

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14

Wednesday, April 11th 2007, 9:42am

Thanks for your tips about the glue :). John and Tino have already told me about white glue but the fact is that I am so used to UHU all-purpose (cellulose) and cyanoacrilate... :rotwerd:

Continuing with the engine. The fit, up to now, is just fine =)
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C16.jpg
  • Ki.44-C17.jpg

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15

Thursday, April 12th 2007, 12:06am

Ricardo, whether its architecture or aviation, your skills shine through.
Well done!
John

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16

Thursday, April 12th 2007, 9:46am

Well, this is a lot different from an architecture subject but, being in paper, it is fun as well :D
I enclose a picture of the rear bank of cylinders and valve actuators. The bulk of the engine work is almost complete :)
Ricleite has attached the following image:
  • Ki.44-C18.jpg

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17

Friday, April 13th 2007, 9:34am

And there it is! The exhausts are not yet there. I used bits of card instead of wire for admission pipes. Not necessarily better looking but I like to use card where possible :)
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C19.jpg
  • Ki.44-C20.jpg
  • Ki.44-C21.jpg

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18

Saturday, April 14th 2007, 2:46pm

@Ric,
I'm watching your progress with interest. I bought this kit on impulse not so long ago, so I will benefit from your expertise! I appreciate Japanese aircraft and am glad to see this subject.

@Martin,
Off topic: I've been offline for a while. Have you finished the Pitts?

cbg
"Think small."

im bau:
Douglas M2 mailplane

auf dem Bucherbord:
FG Me-262; DCM Bristol Scout; Ta-152-C; FG GeeBee R-1; Leonardo's "Ornithopter"; "das Phoenix"

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19

Monday, April 16th 2007, 9:45am

Thanks for your posts, Sparrowhawk and Airgoon. I really appreciate them :)
@cbg - you made a good acquisition. Up to now, I find it worth every cent!

Two more pictures, of the propeller and spine. Rolling GPM paper is a (bad) joke. I swapped the original parts inside the propeller for new ones, in thin paper.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C22.jpg
  • Ki.44-C23.jpg

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Monday, April 16th 2007, 12:48pm

Brilliant Work

Ricardo, the segments of the propeller nose close so nicely! Absolutey brilliant work. The formation of the blades is not too shabby either!!

You are able to slide from one area of interest with paper to the next so effortlessly. Architecture, trains, aircraft... I'm stuck in architecture. Ulm Cathedral is plodding along.

Always a pleasure to follow the current project at hand.
Cheers...John

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21

Monday, April 16th 2007, 3:08pm

RE: Brilliant Work

Hello Ricleite,

once more fantastic work. The engine ist just great and I admire your dedication to use papar as far as possible.

You state -and I agree wholeheartedly- that GMP-paper is difficult to roll. I am just trying to build the Molch you excelled in and I am experiencing problems in rolling the long cylinders for the torpedos and the hull. They tend to wrinkle, which is quite nightmareish.

Do you have a hint on how to do them?

kind regards

Zaphod

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22

Tuesday, April 17th 2007, 9:56am

@ John - You are in for a good one! Ulm is one of Schreiber's best kits. I built the 'old' kit but, probably, the new one is just a reissue.

@ Zaphod - You got to the buzzword: paper :D. Rolling long cylinders is always complicated and GPM's thick paper certainly doesn't help :(
The parts you talk about have something good: the diameter is not too small. The method I use is to put the part over a desk (or something else) edge, press it with a finger, one hand or both, depending on the part size, and slide it around the edge. It is important to put the pressure evenly and not too much. I repeat the process until the diameter looks good and reasonably uniform, putting more pressure, in any pass, where the diameter remains bigger. The worst part is to get the desired shape close to the edges. You should be able to do it without laminating the paper because the diameter is reasonable. That was not the case with the cannon on the Panzerjagerwagen. Fortunately, it is not too hard to keep just the outer, printed, slice...
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  • Ulm-G3.jpg
  • PanzerJagerWagen C-30.jpg

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23

Tuesday, April 17th 2007, 9:59am

Getting back to the Ki-44, I enclose a few pictures of the engine cowling. There are no parts for the interior and I guess I'll have to paint it :(
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C24.jpg
  • Ki.44-C25.jpg
  • Ki.44-C26.jpg

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24

Tuesday, April 17th 2007, 9:41pm

Hello Ricleite and Airgoon,


thank you very much for your hints. I tried the table-edge with the second torpedo and it came out much better than the first one. As Ricleits says: It gets really complicated clodes to the edges, and one mustn´t stop.

Zaphod

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25

Wednesday, April 18th 2007, 9:56am

@ Airgoon - Your picture says it all :). However, with a part of that size, I'd tend to use the whole hand, and not the fingers. It might be better to use a not very sharp edge and have several passes with moderate pressure, instead of one or two with more pressure. It allows you to keep checking the shape and put the pressure on the next pass accordingly.
If the hand is very dry, it may slide over the paper, instead of getting the paper along with it. Make sure this doesn't happen!

I enclose some pictures of the wing structure. The outer formers have to be trimmed, if the ailerons are to be built separately, which I did.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C27.jpg
  • Ki.44-C28.jpg

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26

Thursday, April 19th 2007, 9:36am

The only parts that GPM provides for the wheels are the centers! Up to the builder to do the remaining...
Ricleite has attached the following image:
  • Ki.44-C29.jpg

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27

Friday, April 20th 2007, 9:46am

The external fuel tanks of the Ki-44 are a lot less pointed than, say, those on the Starfighter ;) :D. They pose different problems to build, as well.
To get the shape right, I used the same method as for the Hecht and Molch torpedo noses: rolling a long strip of thin paper to serve as a basis to glue the parts provided in the kit. It was easy for the nose but not so much for the tail, as it proved to be something thinner than an ordinary ellipse...
Anyway, it ended up as you can see in the pictures :)
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C30.jpg
  • Ki.44-C31.jpg

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Saturday, April 21st 2007, 9:53pm

Yeah, it ended extarordinary good looking :super: . I think you have explained this method with the rolled-up strip in the Hecht and Molch-Thread?
LG
Michael

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29

Saturday, April 21st 2007, 9:59pm

excellent work.....

Hi Ricleit

excellent work !! Very precise, clean build !!

FLU
Im Bau / under construction:

StuG III, 1/25, GPM

zurückgestellt bis zum Renteneintritt
--- KRAZ 255 B 6x6, 1:25 ---


und vergesst nicht, es ist nur ein Papiermodell........

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30

Monday, April 23rd 2007, 9:58am

Thank you, zec and Frank Unger :) You're right, zec, the method is the same and I'm happy with it.
I enclose two more pictures of a small assembly below the engine cowling.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C32.jpg
  • Ki.44-C33.jpg

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Monday, April 23rd 2007, 10:22am

Hi Ricardo, you just dont know how to do thing wrong @) @ =D>. Funtastic work.
Regards,

Diamantino

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32

Tuesday, April 24th 2007, 9:37am

I do, Tino, I do. But I try to avoid it :D ;)
Some more pictures - air intake and exhausts.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C34.jpg
  • Ki.44-C35.jpg

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33

Thursday, April 26th 2007, 9:50am

Moving on to more colourful assemblies...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C36.jpg
  • Ki.44-C37.jpg
  • Ki.44-C38.jpg

34

Thursday, April 26th 2007, 12:05pm

Ric,

I love your method of rolling a long strip of thin paper. I will definitely try this soon.
How do you calculate diameter and bend of the rolled part???

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Thursday, April 26th 2007, 2:43pm

@ Henni - first, you have to define the curve you want to get. If it is an ellipse, you have:

r=a cos(t) and y=b sin(t), where 't' can be anything from 0 to 90º (first quadrant).

If you take 'a' as the radius of the curve (at its base) and 'b' its overall height, then, for any 't' value, you calculate ‘r’ and ‘y’. ‘y’ is the paper strip depth corresponding to ‘r’ radius. The relation between the paper strip length and ‘r’ is very simple and depends only on paper thickness, having in mind that you must have equal areas. Taking ‘e’ as the paper thickness and ‘l’ as the strip length, the area is ‘e’ x ‘l’.
The area for a circle with ‘r’ radius is equal to 3,14 x ‘r’ x ‘r’. From this, you get ‘l’ = 3,14 x ‘r’ x ‘r’ / ‘e’.
This means that, when the strip length is ‘l’, its depth should be ‘y’. Calculate a few points in a spreadsheet, put them to (real) paper and that is it!

Just a tip: I found out that ordinary 80g/m2 paper has a thickness close to 0,115mm. With 5mm radius, you already need a strip of paper 683mm long!
I only put glue when I join parts of a long strip. Otherwise glue thickness would start to be relevant…

36

Thursday, April 26th 2007, 3:44pm

Understood.
Thank you for your Excursion. I will try this with the next sidewinder-rocket. :super:

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37

Friday, April 27th 2007, 9:30am

@ Henni - Go for it ;)

A bit more, at the front and at the tail...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C39.jpg
  • Ki.44-C40.jpg

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Friday, April 27th 2007, 1:44pm

Pure joy to watch your build Ricardo!!
Nice tip with the paperrolled shapers!
I have used balsa or other wooden rods to do the same procedure.
"I'LL BE BACK"

Johnny Svensson
PAPIRMODELLER.COM

In the workshop
LeFh 1:16 DrafModel
T28 1:25 DrafModel


Finished builds.

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39

Wednesday, May 2nd 2007, 9:57am

Hi Josve,

Using balsa rods may be simpler, if you have the right tools. But you know how much I like to use paper :D...
I'm moving now to the wings. Underside first, lateral panels next.
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C41.jpg
  • Ki.44-C42.jpg

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Thursday, May 3rd 2007, 9:37am

Adding the main landing gear...
Ricleite has attached the following images:
  • Ki.44-C43.jpg
  • Ki.44-C44.jpg

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