GPM, PzKpfw.III Ausf.G 1:25

    Good evening all!


    I am new here, this is my first model after few years, now I found some time to get back to modeling and cant wait to start as I manage to get some colection of many models by GPM and Halinski


    My first choice is Pz.Kpfw.III Ausf.G by GPM, I am very pleased that they improved so much since I first bought a model from this company.
    As I already started to build the model, therefore I am unable to say on how many pages it is on or how many parts is consists of, but I will provide all those info in my next models.

    Here are few pictures so far, also from now on I will post step by step construction of the parts.

    Hello and good morning,


    as I wrote before the model is okay to build, but there are few errors which can spoil the model, the process is without any problems unitl the the clutch (parts up to 18) the whole segment is too wide to fit into the main body therefore there I had to cut off from part 14G, unfortunately I realised this problem too late the result is horrible as i have had to cut already parts being glued together.

    Hi "barbarossa"


    Nice to see your report on building the PzKpfw III. What I can see from the pictures, it's a nice clean build.


    At the present time, I'm also working on this model, but I have only limited time, so the building proces will take a wile.


    I'm working in a different sequence than you are, I will first finish the bottom part of the hull. Then add the tracks, this is nessecary because I also want to build a diorama in the mean time, like the PAK diorama (see diorama part of the forum). This diorama will contain 2 models, the PzKpfw and a Greif (still to build). So once the bottom part of the tank is finished, I know the exact position of the tracks, that I need for making the trackmarks in the soil of the diorama.


    After the tracks are mounted, I will mount the fenders. I will do it in this way because with the T34/76 I found out that it is hard to mount the tracks with the fenders already in place.


    The next step will be that I build the top part of the tank so I can be placed in the diorama allready.


    Finally I will build the interior. This is still possible because I make the interior in such a way that it can be taken out. This is an advantage in showing the model on a exhibition. The outershell of the tank can than be on the diorama while the interior stands next to it showing the amazing details of this GPM model.


    Regarding the clutch part of the drivetrain, I will keep your warning in the back of my head. So when I start building this part I will first dry fit it TWICE instead of ONCE :yahoo: before glueing.


    If you find more problems, please let me know on this forum or in a personal message. If I encounter some problems I will let you know.


    Finally I have one question, what kind of tracks are you planning to use? The paper tracks of GPM or laser cutted (GPM or Drafmodel)?


    I ordered the lasercutted of GPM, these look very realistic and it saves you a lot of cutting :)


    Looking forward to the rest of your building process


    Xander

    Hi Xander I am following the instruction attached with model and as you can see I am at the trailing arms dampers ( parts nr42-42e) so far I can only say that the main problem was the clutch at the end it looks all right but I am bit dissapointed as I try to build everything clean.


    Apart from the clutch the problem is part 13c it is too big for the radius of part 13d but this can be fixed by cutting the 13c into correct length and then the remaining part to be glued so then there wont be a gap btw the part 14 and 13c and the joining line of that part will be covered with 13f .


    Next problem is with the parts 9 and 10 these parts are to be glued into position marked on the inside covering part 6 but then there is just a little space to fit the both seats,the clutch and the gearbox (nr 14) together with the seats should be fixed inside very carefully as there is little space for the fingers and also for each of the parts. Because ot the above mentioned problems there position of steering handels (nr 25) will slighty change.


    The engine (parts 28-32e) is easy to build and there are not any errors the only thing is to be carefull with fixing the parts 30 and 31before the fuel tanks 29 L and 29R as it says in the instruction otherwise there wont be any space to fix them in the place also on the part 29R there is white circle indicating to fix part 29b this needs to be painted as this doesn't correspond with the 29L and this is visible on the pictures at back of the sheets cover.

    On the photograph below there is this this gap visible as I decribed it above ( involving parts 13c and 13d)

    Hello Jorg, i know that the pictures are not great but I need to find out how to make them smaller ( I did take some with sony alfa) and they are exceeding the size so need to have look how to make them smaller ( using final cut for mac) when I will have some time later on this week.
    These pics I posted are taken with Canon comact cam there is not too much glory :(


    Regards Martin

    Hello alle zusamen! After a long time I am coming with new post. I decided to skip all the small details which are listed in the construction description to prevent any damage to them as there is still some rough work to do. Instead I started with a wheels. I though this will be a straitforward process but it is not that truth. the parts 68c wont fit into both of the holes in parts 68 and 68a, otherwise building the wheels parts 71 up to 71h is nice everything fits into place as it should. so 22 wheels to go:D

    .....and there are few more pictures of the wheels. I still dont know for which tracks to go does anyone know if its too much pain to build them out of paper? I have seen them in Bernie's Brummbar thread made out of laser cuts and they really looks great. But for now on back to wheels :D
    Regards Martin

    Hi,


    In fact there are 4 possibilities for the tracks.


    1. Paper tracks out of 1 piece
    2. Paper tracks made from individual links
    3. Laser cut tracks out of 1 piece of GPM
    4. Laser cut tracks made from individual links of Drafmodel


    The advantage of using the paper tracks is that they are already with the model. The disadvantage is that you have a hell of a job in cutting the tracks. In my opinion the paper tracks out of one piece look a bit flat (withouth much 3D structure) this is not nice compared to the detailed rest of the tank.
    The paper tracks from the individual links are better but of course way more work.


    I have choosen for the laser cut parts of GPM because they really look good and are less work compared to the laser cut parts of Drafmodel. The disadvantage is that they are more expensive than the model and you have to paint them. I already tried painting them and it works out nice, so if you need some advise, send me a PM.


    At the end, I don't think you would see the difference between the GPM and Drafmodel tracks, because I'm going to weather them with dust and mud so it is hard to see the small spacing between the individual links.


    I started working on the backrollers of the tank, because these determine the distance between the track and the body (the pictures I will post this weekend in my thread). Next step is to build the cog wheel and the wheels for putting tension on them. Finally I will put on the driving wheels, because due to the suspension they are easy to damage but also easy to adjust to make the track really run parallel with the tank hull.


    I allready found out that both the cog wheels have to be adjusted because the GPM laser cut tracks are a bit wider than the printed tracks. It is only one mm but they will not fit if I don't make the shaft of the cog wheel 1 mm wider.


    Finally I have one tip: when you build the return rollers, do not reinforce part 72 and 72a by doubling the thickness of the paper but by glueing it to 0.8 mm thick cardboard. This makes the rollers more stiffer and will help you when you fit the tracks, because the track need a bit of sag. When you bend the tracks to make this sag, it creates quite some force on the rollers which might bend them.


    I even drilled a hole through the complete return roller and glued a toothpick inside to serve as a axle. The protruding part of the axle is then glued into part 4 using a lot of glue. The glue dried during a few days, and now the return rollers are really stiff. I can't bend them any more with respect to the hull of the tank.


    Xander