Bn2t Freudenstein, Modelik, 1:25 scale [FERTIG]

I am going to take a short break from the Pirling trains and try my hand at a narrow gauge engine, something I have loved since I was a kid. following somewhat tentatively in the footsteps of Yu, I am trying my hand with the Modelik Bn2t Freudenstein, in 1:25th scale, nr.10/08. Consider it "Freudenstein for dummies," and hopefully Yu will forgive me for treading on his feet. I started work before Christmas, and my trip to Hawaii fueled the fire, because I got to see some of the OR&L engines at the Hawaiian Railway museum.

Work started with the base, so there is something to set the engine on without damaging the flanges. I used 2mm card for the base plate, as 1mm will likely warp. I also built a wheel jig, covered with some plastic.

First job is the frame..and rivets. I used Photoshop to copy the red color from my backup scans and make a sheet of red. You can also see the frame parts laid out. One thing that made life easier was to apply the rivets to the parts before assembly; I did not have a problem with any popping off.

That's ok, Yu got me into this mess...er, thread I remember your comment about being unhappy with the wheels; prophetic, because I am also having problems, which I will talk about in the next update.

I have been working the wheels, and re working the jig. I am still trying to get a good wheel. One thing I think I have learned is to install the inner red band of the tire before you add the formers and the outer gray band. My first wheel has unsightly gaps, for which I am still looking for a solution. The bottom two pictures show all the wheel parts, and the parts for just one wheel.

Hi Norm, I did consider using glue drops, but I drag out the paint only as a last resort. The only problem with the punched rivets is that there is a white rim. I wasn't going to try and edge color the rivets. If I could find some red and black construction paper, that might be a solution. If the punch is very sharp, it definitely makes better rivets.

Yu-san, my first wheel has a big gap on the backside of the tire. I will be quite happy if I get them to look like yours! Will post pictures later. I am working on other parts while I steel myself to spoke the first wheel.

Hey Jan, neat! Makes me feel better i still need to shrink my gaps, though, as you will see. Thanks

I think I am on the road to successful wheels. The first one has an ugly gap in back (see last pic) but the second is looking better already.

Progress has been slow, lots of fiddly work. i am finishing up the wheels, then cylinders, brake gear, and the side rods/valve gear. The upper right pic shows the parts ro the wheel hub and the rest of the photos show the sneaky way I fixed the ring size problem. The top ring fit ok, so there must be some cutting error involved. Sanding the inside of the rings would work also.

Here is some of the work on the cylinders and brake parts. In the middle left pic you can see that there is still a small gap, sanding the rings would likely eliminate this.

One disappointment has been the Draf Model bolt heads. They have a bad tendency to de-laminate after being glued on. You can see one that needs to be replaced in the photos. The good news is that all four wheels are done :yahoo: Not up to Yu's standard but I will take them, and the next engine will be better. Once I got the tires squared away, the spoking process was simple: test fit, trim, color, test, trim glue...the jig makes it easy. Be sure to use plenty of glue on the spokes, they need to be strong.

Kooklik, thanks, I was hoping it was just me. I will try that. Do you plan to share your amazing Big Boy design here?

Yu-san, that was my plan!

I am finishing the cylinders and starting to fit wheels and side rods to the frame. Pics will be forthcoming. For the cylinders you will have devise tabs, as non are provided. I ust cut them out of scrap paper.

Thanks, Kooklik, and I hope there is a geared engine in your future also

I am finishing up the parts for the brake gear and cylinders. the steam chest on top of the cylinder needs to be installed after the cylinder is glued to the frame. it is also wise to wait on gluing the side rod pegs to the wheels until the wheels are glued to the axles, because otherwise the need to thread the side rods though part 10, the guides, requires interesting contortions :gaga:

This is the rest of this week's work.

When working the brake gear, side rods and valve gear, make sure that the dowels fit in the holes easily, and use beeswax to lubricate. I have had trouble with this, so this is real hindsight! also the piston rod guides need to be thinned at the cylinder end so they fit into the slots. You need to carefully study the photos on the back cover as the diagrams, although good, don't show the firemans side of the engine. Be careful to get the eccentric cranks correct, you can see how they go on the back cover photos.

I know the narrative is a little out of joint with the pics, but they will catch up... On part 31, the front deck, you will need to cut off the edging strips and reapply. Folding them does NOT work.

These next few groups of pics will show the work through completion of the Valve gear. I recommend resorting to one's favorite tranquilizer prior to doing the valve gear. But it does fit. The back cover photos are essential, so don't cut it up to build the stand...at least until the engine is done.

I am also trying to eliminate the blurred pics, not entirely sure if its the camera or unsteady hands. You can see the upper valve gear components and the parts for the firebox.

Last set. The cab deck and firebox are not installed yet, but I have glued the cab floor to the deck piece.

Beeswax is an old trick to de-fuzz thread for rigging. When I go back to ships I plan to try it as part of making railings, along with clear matte nail polish, instaed of superglue.

Thanks for your kind words it is starting to look like a locomotive...

Not much to show this week, I have not had much time, and I am mostly working on components for the cab and boiler. I do think the constructor, Michal Kolodziej, has done a fine job,with excellent fit and a rational design. The biggest short coming of the kit is no drawing of the fireman's side of the engine, but it is shown in photos.

Still slogging through parts construction...Be careful wrapping the sand dome, the sides are a bit long; I made the mistake of starting at on end... :rotwerd:
Also there are no marks to show where the two pipes on top of the steam dome go, so look at the pictures.

And the rest of this week's meager yield...I have been going back and coloring all the rivets with my pens, looks better. :]

I am getting closer to being finished with the components but it is still a slow slog...

I am nearly finished building components. As you will see, I am building sub assemblies like the smoke box, boiler, cab sides, then I will assemble these. The boiler is not glued yet, just a mock up.

You can see some more of the parts here.

I hope to finish the last few parts today, next step will be erecting the boiler...

Its all coming together, just a couple of parts to finish that I have been stalling on. be sure to build the coupler assemblies identical, not mirror image. I actually figured this out before I made a mess

I also did some housecleaning

Thanks, Kooklik, I bet your house cleaning was a little bigger then mine Final assembly is under way...

Here you can see the one serious fit problem I have had, the tank ends are too short by 4mm. They are just too short, the only serious fit issue i have had. However, the fix is easy...just add strips and color them.

The Freudenstein was on hiatus while I helped a friend with a beta build, but I have now finished the piping and am finishing the cab. The piping is copper wire and fine florist's wire. I did not try to run the pipes to the manifold, just into the cab. She is nearly finished, and so I have started a new elok...

My thanks to Jan Kolodiej and Modelik for producing such an entertaining model with only a few small vices.