Posts by Mindaugas

    Hello,


    I want to present my Modelik's Kettenkrad. I am putting this under gallery, since it will not have any chronological build log. I will give you a short photo-review of model's build and a few pictures of finished product.
    The kit was awesome, very precision fitting, great use of different thickness cardboard (0,2, 0,5 and 1mm), finishing of edges. Every spot of the model is very well thought of. Model shows a very distinct style of author by excessive using long roll-able parts around different diameter sticks. Be prepared for lots of rolling. But once done correctly, it gives precise and nice round parts.


    Some things to note (besides stock model):


    - Uncut model sheets were varnished with nitro (acetone based) lacquer primer "Capon" from both sides. This is a polish brand primer, used for priming parquet, before varnishing it. At first look this technique seems extremely harsh, by straight brushing this varnish and completely soaking the sheets. But this does not wrinkle paper and it gives extreme protection, stiffness, rigidness, ease of forming, rolling and nice negligibly semi-gloss surface, which does not need to be varnished after completion of model. Also it makes easier to work with parts, when they are not so susceptible to dirty hands, glue and paint stains. They can be cleaned off easily. Off course this reduces the adhesion of glue and increases holding time, but this is a trade off.
    - I have made minor weathering by washing recesses and dry brushing tracks and metal parts with Pactra acrylic paints.
    - I made some additional parts for instruments from very thin copper wiring, which I extracted from dead electric motors for my RC planes. I also punched small clear circles for imitating instruments glass.
    - The mesh for motor cover was made out of fine kitchen food draining tool (?). :)
    - I am also very proud of air valve, made in the tyre. :D


    I also made a towing cart with boxes and canisters, but I do not have photos of it yet. I will post these later.


    Enjoy.
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    Hi there,


    It has been a few year since my activity on this forum. Some older modelers should remember me from this forum and "Cardmodelers" (now Zealot?). I see a lot of this has changed in this forum, new system, new structure, new boards, etc. I wonder where are all those old threads? It shows that I have 270+ posts, but I cannot find my old threads and galleries anywhere.
    Then I was a student and an active forum member. But university times started, now work, family, with wife we are expecting a baby in a few weeks, so I abandoned forums. I'd only came to check the beautiful works by other modelers.
    I started serious cycling, with competitions, I also attend RC car competitions, fly and scratch build RC aircraft, especially love FPV (first person view flight).


    But I never forgot paper modeling! During these silent last years I've built a lot of planes, sailplanes and now I started loving vehicles, especially tank-destroyers.


    Enough. I would like to present my little work. It is a polish tank destroyer TKS-D built on TKS tankette's chassis. Only a few were produced and their fate is unknown after the 1939 attack on Warsaw.


    Model is a very small one, only 10cm long.


    There won't be any photo-build, only a short gallery. Only I would like to show a cutting process of tracks, where I had to cut more than 1500 holes, smaller than 1x1mm, from a few tiny stripes. [Blocked Image: http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif]



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    And here I provide size comparison with my nearly complete SU-85 (85mm tank destroyer built on T-34 tank chassis). 29 tonnes vs. 2.5 tonnes. [Blocked Image: http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif]
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    Thats all. Thanks!

    Hallo!


    Here, I have completed the engine, which is quite simple, but nice. Offcourse it will be absolutely invisible, so practically I could have even skipped it :D


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    This is my ubersmall workplace, in my room, in Valencia :) Spain is very nice country, but I wouldn't live here, maybe I am too patriot of my country, I love it and I miss it. This is a good experience to see something new, to learn in a new way, to see the architecture and living style here, to design a project for Spain, but it's good that this exchange period is just half a year :)


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    Some photos of Valencia :)


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    Good luck friends!
    --

    Hallo,


    I am currently in Spain, Valencia, on Erasmus studies for one term. I just wanted to continue modelling, but avoiding plane transporting problems, I have decided to get myself a very small plane. That is a little 1:33 Modelik Polikarpov I-16 typ24 :)


    About a plane itself:


    All of you know, that I-16 was used, by USSR, in the beginning of WWII, and really wasn't too inferior even to Bf-109s. This was a revolutionary airplane with revolutionary design. It was the first plane in the world with retractable landing gear and cantilever wing desing (cantilever http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantilever - in mechanics, is a method of attaching a beam, only at one end, to a fixed surface). These planes were introduced in 1930s, as a backbone for Soviet Air Force. This petite fighter showed its best in Manchurian war with Japans, just before WWII. This is a model of typ24, which was very manoeuvrable, and thus was called 'rata'.


    Ok, so the model is quite easy, only 4x A4s, not many parts, complex places or so. I am not going to complete it fully, because I will have to transport it back to Lithuania. But I will do so, that in Kaunas I will just need like two evenings to complete it :)


    The magazine itself is very neat, with great polygraphics. No weathering or superdetailisations..


    I have a very few tools and materials with me, so I will do it straight "out of box", without detailing, fixing or modifying.


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    I am sorry, that I really hasted, and I didn't photographed the beginning of the production. But on the other hand, there is not much to show. Just a framework, and primitive cockpit, which is deep and not so much visible.
    It is like three evenings work.. Just I haven't built any models for a while, so I was eager, and I hasted too much, which lead to some minor mistakes. I hope I will get accustomed to it :)


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    Aim sights


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    Engine. It will be practically invisible, so I didn't put too much effort in it...


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    That is all. Till the next time :)
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    Hallo!


    Thank you for your comments, and knowledge, which will help improving this model.
    So a little update on this veeery slowly paced topic.


    That's a cradle of belly gunner. It wasn't very difficult, but I have smeared the glazing a little. Interior didn't receive such attention, as exterior, so you can compare. Exterior is much cleaner. But, when it is attached, the interior won't be that visible. Perfectionism should be always, but this time I can't tell why.
    Interesting, how will it be able to integrate into the main fuselage. Also this cradle lacks the bubble window with MG, because I will make all double curving glazing at one time with my heat moulding machine. There will be 3 or 4 pieces of that.


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    Wheels. I have cut many circles of cardboard with my Olfa circle-cutter, glued them together, attached them to electric grinder, and grinded to round shape. Then I immersed them into plastic modeler's Goddess "Future" chemical, expecting to make them hard, and avoid paint soaking inside, when paiting. It was ok, but wheels cracked on seams, when "Future" was drying... I have repaired one wheel with a glue and pressure of tons of heavy books, but when repairing second one, I used paper clips (I was lazy to carry books around), and these left deep marks. I had to use wood cement... I didn't want to cut another full wheel with Olfa, because of my painful blisters on fingers.


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    Here, besides these wheels you can see rim parts. Some of these were poorly designed (the white areas were much larger, that attachable parts itself), so I had to paint them at all. Those thin rings were made with special circle ruler and rapidograph.
    Also NOTE: The Olfa circle-cutter in the background has a little modification. That's a ~1mm thick polystirene sheet (maybe a wedge made from it), which holds the body of the Olfa firmly. If you don't use it, your Olfa is wobbling, and you cut spirals (when increasing pressure), instead of circles. Then you can throw these parts away..


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    The landing gear support was made in a little bit another method. It was assembled without painting edges, and then I have painted them all at once. It is somehow faster, but your paint doesn't always go where it is supposed to go - i.e. it leaves marks on surfaces around closely placed edges. Well.. not the right method for WHOLE model, but for such parts it's OK.


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    Completed engines. I like the result, maybe one of them has some inferior seams.


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    That's all. Good luck! :)
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    Hello!


    Thank you Glueme :)


    Here you see the upper gunner's place. I haven't made many additional imrovements here, only I sticked the iron sights for machinegun. In internet and my reference books I found many variants of those iron aims, but I chose the most simple on (Well... I could have done ones with the metal circle and cross, but... whatever :) ) Also I'm not sure 'bout this dual magazine, because none of my references proved it. I saw sooo many machinegun variants for He-111, and they had direct feeds, single magazines, and even dual feeds (but this applies only for dual barrel gun - while mine is single). So.. I left as GPM suggests.


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    Propellors. I have filled the cones' inside with foam to give some support for blades. A little bit of sanding, and painting awaits... It's a pity I hadn't made perfect seams, because author's pictures in magazine show nicely finished seams.. I'm envy for him :)


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    Oh, and I have a question, without I cannot move further. Please tell me what was the He-111's propellor configuration? Rotating to one side (in such case pilot should add throttle to one side); or counter-rotating?? Also, which direction do they rotate? For example P-38J had counter-rotating props, which rotate outwards from the cockpit.


    That is all. Thanks for watching and good luck ;)
    --

    Hello,


    You have a very nice model here. I like the size of it, smooth surface and nice seams =D> =D>


    Sorry, that I do not read german, but how was the color matching, when printing that "gap" ? How you did it, because in pics it seems quite fluent. I am having such problems with covering my SR-71's framewrok.


    Thanks and good luck finishing this beautiful plane ;)

    Hello everybody,


    Thank you for your nice comments :)


    Tino: Yes, aileroons, flaps and others will be moveable, and this post is dedicated to frameworks of those movable surfaces ;) They are allready designed by GPM to be movable, so I just have to follow instructions. I suppose, that it would be ugly if I made these fixed, because they are supposed to move.
    René Pinos: Currently I am arranging documents for this, so in near future I will report the results. I would also be happy to meet as many german modellers as it is possible :)


    Firstly, I am sorry for the quality of pictures, because my camera died after making three pics and I wanted to show my progress so much, that I didn't wait for batteries to recharge and I used my mobile phone. So those three colourful and contrast pictures are made by camera - others by phone.


    The main subject of today's post is frameworks of moveable surfaces (aileroons, flaps..). Next stage is to fill all voids with foam, sand it and then I can easily "skin" the whole wing area.


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    Here I am researching the landing gear well. I made two conclusions: 1) I had to laminate the sidewalls of wheel wells, therefore I had to make more space by cutting out some framework. 2) I ommited that card liner, because the wheel well depth becomes inapropriate. I suppose, that these are GPM's mistakes.


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    Thickened landing gear wells:


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    Bad liner, bad..


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    Flaps :) These are one of the most beautiful places of this model. Here you can see their push-in structure. Hinges are at the bottom in order to make flaps hang, but not to rotate. (In this picture, the whole wing is upside-down).


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    Angled flaps:


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    Aileroons. They are quite tight, so I made many imprecisions. I hope, that "sanding" will solve everything.


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    Aileroon's hinge. Soaked in superglue for extra strength:


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    And for the end: Here you see some missmatches. I don't know where they are from, but maybe it is my mistake, when building such a complex framework, or maybe GPM's designing mistake.. Well, I hope to "sand out" everything ;)


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    Have a nice day! :)
    --

    Hallo Freunde,


    Guys, thank you for your comments and awesome photos.
    Ernst: thank you for those great reference photos
    kisboti: You have done a really nice work on lighting. I did some lighting in my models previously, but this one is without a lighting


    So after a long break, I am back again. I had busy studies, some traumas, and I was involved in other activities. But at the turtle speed I was progressing. (Also I am willing to go to study for one term in Germany next year, via Socrates student exchange program :) )


    So heres' the update:


    I have made the backs of the instruments panels using various junk, like wires, pieces of cord and so on.. And then everything was painted. This was done according to reference photos, given by you.


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    Cockpit. I had much embarassment with installation of interior items into the greenhouse. Since I have added many details to them, some things were hidded or just didn't fit. So i had to clip a bit :) Also I had many headache with attaching last segment of greenhouse. So here I made a plywood former from scratch and sanded it to the angle. I am expecting to get at least average result.. but I've allready failed in doing so, because no He-111 cockpit had such a "fat" frame. But it is for the seam's beauty :D


    Interior:


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    Overall view:


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    Wings :) I've started to make their framework. Some parts are from cardboard, and some from aviation plywood (~1mm thick) to add strengh. It seams, that wing's geometry is OK, but it is in a need for some sanding, framework isn't smooth. But I will do sanding at a stretch when I fill it with foam. So.. GPM designed a complex framework, but it seems to work. Also you can see flaps and aileroons.


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    Size (Matt is A3) :)


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    Engines... They have consumed so much time! The framework is all cardboard. I suppose, that it will be enough strength. Also I didn't use plywood for these, because your hand gets very tired and blade gets dull quickly when cutting it. After the plywood, the card is being cut as a butter :) When skinning, I had to sand the framework, because it seemed to be a little too large. Also I had problems matching the skin to the exaust bays, so I had to use some sharp razor. Next step here, is to completely paint all the white areas I got after "razoring".


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP9597.jpg]
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    Propellors, engine frontal parts.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP9604.jpg]


    The hinge of the rudder... Unpainted.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP9601-1.jpg]


    Angled rudder:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/imgp9602-1.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck and until the next update! ;)
    --

    Hallo!


    Here I have finished the "bomb-box". I should blame designers for making those walls colored only from one side. I had to paint them all. Moreover I didn't like the printing flaw. As you can see, there is a color mismatch. And such mismatch exists ONLY on this part. It is more a graduation between normal and mismatched color... But it is so visible. Why this part??? Why!!? And only I have such a problem, for example Tino's He-111 was smooth :P


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8744.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8737.jpg]


    And... I made a second "green-house" section. Despite, that this is a very complex part, I managed to make it so-so =)


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP9008.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo kisboti,


    I am sorry for delayed answer, but my internet/forum surfing, modelling time, and overall freetime was reduced by the works in university.


    Here's my unfinished architecture work. It was made by ink (or so called tool - rapidograph). It is still dull and in the need for character (including background, shadows and so on). You can compare its size with a simple CD :)


    http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8940.jpg


    Now your questions. Yes. You can make lighting - this would even be very beneficial. But I really cannot tell you whether the lights existed or not... Where were they placed? How did they look like? I haven't found such information in any literature, that is available to me. Offcourse, it is minority, but this frustrates :D I know. Well.. I am not doing any lighting this time. I really hope that it will be possible to see anything in that darkness :D. On the other hand you can simply try to put a small lamp or LED, that has no technical or historical purpose, but is just used to light up the interior. This is my suggestion.


    Moreover, it would be EXTREMELY difficult to beautifully implement a lighting in this model because of the scale. Lets say in my SR-71 or P-38, such things were possible, but He-111 is the other case (just imagine, how are you going to place lamps in that thin instrument panel?).


    Here you can find my unfinished SR-71:
    Flymodel Nr. 31, Lockheed SR-71 "Blackbird", 1:33


    For P-38, unfortunately, there is no build-review.


    And tommorow I am going to update this thread with new photographies! For now, good night ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Well. Weekend is over. Next week I am returning to my studies, plus I will have more work after this lost week due to my illness. It was great to be lazy, but despite that (at the beginning of this week) I hadn't neither strength, nor wish to work on model with +38.7C body temperature.


    Here the first section is complete. Just windows are not yet cleaned. But after everything is finished, I will clean them. Fortunately I managed to avoid super glue fumes from condesing on windows by applying constant wind (with hairfan) while glue was drying.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8450.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8379.jpg]


    I added (but not glued yet) that recently finished seat with pedals.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8460.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8457.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8411.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    A little about the building of the "greenhouse".


    These are precisely cut frames. I painted the edges, and other places, that in my opinion (because of my/ or GPM's fault) should not be visible, but will be visible :D I mean the inside of coloured part, near the window openings. You see, when I attach interior siding, that white can be still seen from inside.
    As I've allready mentioned, I am making this model together with my friend Donatas. He's a pro. So he's going to mould the whole nose! (Those ~10 centimeters). While I will go the "glazing" way. I will use smaller or bigger sheets to cover all the windows. For the next section, I will use connector stripes, but for third section I will probably use the edge-to-edge glueing method.. We'll see. This is a very difficult place, and this is a really difficult challenge for me :P


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8421.jpg]


    Former


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8371.jpg]
    I loved that aviation plywood (~1mm thickness). Such formers, if made from card, would be useless! It would break and bend while putting it into section. While wood is very very STRONG and it is easy to work with. So, I roughly cut out the inside of it and sanded with electric grinder to perfect look. And outside of the part was cut out by leaving the reserve of 1-2 milimeters. Then, on the electric abrasive disc, it was sanded to the black line. Understand? Then I painted it, and I have a nice and tough former.


    This is a pic by Donatas. He is sanding the part to shape:


    http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/331/044cp2.jpg


    Watch the video, how tough is the former. (Click the picture and wait till the movie is fully loaded, otherwise it can lag while watching).


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/th_IMGP8372-2.jpg]


    And finally I made the throttle quadrant. I added the sticks and glazed the instruments.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8377.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8375.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Pawell. Thank you for this nice tutorial. It is a pity, that I haven't read this forum for quite a time, and I only noticed your message after the belts were finished and glued in position. I will DEFINATELY use this technique on my next model.
    Your seats in those photos are fantastic!!!!! I hope, that someone would invent some immortality potion soon, and then after several thousand years I would be able to reach such level of quality. =D> =D>


    Ernst. Thank you for fantastic pictures. They will help me alot =D> =)


    So. I made the pedals. What can I say - GPM was offering actually not a very accurate pedals. 22 parts should have composed seat and pedals. I raised that number up to 50 by removing, modyfing GPM's parts, and, offcourse, creating my own ones.


    This is the photo, that I used to make pedals


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/Pedals.jpg]


    Offcourse, it is very far from real world's copy , but I hope, that I made a little step closer to reality. At least I made those pulling rods, pistons, hoses and so on.


    So :) That blue color is absolutely out of touch :D


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8386.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8384.jpg]


    All painted and I'm adding pulling rods. I dont' know how to call them, but in Lithuanian, we call them "traukes".


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8391.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8394.jpg]


    Finally everything composed, painted and connected with seat. At last I've found out how belts are made, but I missed the technique pawell offered :( Next model will be better :)


    Here I will put some photos. I've experimented with lighting, but despite that, I didn't manage to get the quality I wanted. Well, maybe, this is so, because my camera is an old and nonpro one, furthermore, I did not find the right place to shoot - nearly all photos are made from the shady side - but it was just impossible to normally approach from the right side at my home. That is because I used windowstills. Moreover, I don't have the right lighting, lamps, etc... :(


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8397.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8436.jpg]


    And some small parts, that I am currently working on:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8389.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8462.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Since me, and my friend are doing the same model at this momemt (with the very similar techniques), so we share our work and experience afterwards :) He will use my experience how I built fuselage, while I will look how he assembled those really tricky wings. I think, such information sharing can really help avoiding upcomming disasters :P


    So today I've nearly finished instrument panels. Only glasses are left to insert. I searched for many methods how to make glass, but the best one is to use hole puncher and plastic clear sheet. For example, I did not like Clearfix, because after drying it sags down and becomes rough. Enamel and acryl varnishes are not suitable too. I didn't like the result either. And one method was nail varnish. It might seem good, but when it dryes, it becomes like lens and simpy distort the view. So I will make small clear circles and then insert them into framies with PVA. One such circle can be seen in my photo. Oh, and when punching them with those hole punchers, one gets bossy. Thats ideal for instrument glazing!
    Furthermore I want to tell what I did. I have attached those wire frames with superglue. And then I painted the insrument insides in black and added needles and other stuff with 000 paintbrush or even needle (or the end of toothpick). I also wanted to add screws, that are used to attach each instrument, but I assumed, that this is SOOO much work, so much time wasted, and the result can be unsatisfactory, because you always get messed in such scale. Oh, and I remembered, that we are building "frauds" and cannot make 100% real copies. So I calmed down, and made it as it seems best for me.
    About historical accuracy. It was very very difficult to determine which source is the best. American guy's photos show one, GPM is offering second, my black'n'white schemes show third, and IL-2 Sturmovik computer game shows fourth! (additionally, He-111 pilot's secondary panel looks absolutely different in IL-2 Sturmovik - see! And we call those games "simulators" :D :D Offcourse, that game is awesome)


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8341.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8345.jpg]


    American guy's photos. Instrument situating is a little bit different than in that black'n'white scheme. But mostly I was refering to these photos, while those hanging "appendicitis" were made according to those schemes. So.. as you see - a little bit of improvization :P Eh.. whatever..



    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/PanelRight.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://www.wunderwaffe.narod.ru/Magazine/AirWar/01/Draw/10.jpg]


    IL-2 game. That overhead panel is absolutely different than GPM offers. Because I found a round 0 information about that overhead panel, I left as it is. Only I've added frames. The same situation with the throttle quadrant (it is still without sticks)


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/il-2.jpg]


    And now, time comes for back "cups". I will try to do them according to those photos plus my improvisation :D


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/MainPanelRear.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/111-2.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l137/thevid/images/he111.jpg]


    It is difficult to judge, because different information sources are showing different facts. :)


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Thanks to both of you. All that information helped allready (or going to help in the near future)


    So now - a little update :) Currently I am detailing interior of cockpit. I am really thankful for pictures and schemes, that you (and other guys from cardmodels and lithuanian forum) provided.


    Seat and "bed". Seat is still unfinished. At least I found out how to attach belts (see that incision in the middle of the back-support - this is the belts' "root")


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8323.jpg]


    Instruments' framies. I made them from PC network cords. Those copper wires inside are really thin and suitable for such work. In the background you can see seatbelts being prepared.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8318.jpg]


    Painted. I love that adhesive tape (Leif's method :P)


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8328.jpg]


    These framies weren't used. Mostly because of incorrect thickness (this was before I discovered PC network wires).


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8321.jpg]


    Pilot's main panel. I made a little scratchbuilding (according to this scheme: http://www.wunderwaffe.narod.r…ine/AirWar/01/Draw/10.jpg ) . That white material is plastic styrene sheets, that plastic modelers use for scratchbuilding. They come in various thicknesses. Superb material because of its solidity, even in such scale. In this case, paper would get frayed immediately.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8333.jpg]


    And future plans. I am going to finish the panel soon and start building the panel's back side. I will use plenty of materials, because those instruments' cups come in various diameters. For bigger (and square shaped) ones I will use paper. For smaller I will use various cords' plastic insulations and so on. I will do this according to superb photos of one american guy from cardmodels :) He provided me with some really nice panel back's shots. Moreover, I will do some wiring, that come from those cups to interior walls. Well, I'm not sure where they travel, but I will try to find out.


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Ernst, thank you for the pictures :)


    However, pictures are still needed :)
    I found out about plastic model - it is from Monogram. Well, Monogram is not the No. 1 producer in the world, and it may have some misunderstandings and mistakes.


    So Ive allready noticed some differences between GPM and Monogram for example gunners/bombers beds are different. Pilot seats are completely different too. I dont know whose fault is here: GPM, Monogram, or that plastic modeller (I havent done anything yet :D, but with such a lack of information I will make larks too...).


    Ive noticed, that some modellers here are very interested in historical accuracy. Im getting sick with this disease too.. :tongue: I am looking, searching and reading. Im curious about how everything looked like, how everything was done, where everything was placed and so on :) . Currently I am curious about interiors (engines, landing gears, wheel wells, etc. too), but I suspect, that soon I will put such emphasis on whole model (I mean exterior). But not now :)


    OK, so if you find anything interesting, please show here. I appreciate your help very much :)


    And some progress:


    This technique is very helpful not to loose small parts. I use double sided adhesive tape. Moreover, it is very comfortable to paint those smals parts when they are attached. And even this tape can be used to laminate frameparts on card! This tape is VERY thin and is great for thickening parts.
    Oh, and without proper photographs of bomber's bed and that brown seat, I have allready improvized... Oh well...
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8185.jpg]


    Close-up. A little revolution in edge coloring. I paint them AFTER the part was glued together. This applies to smaller parts, while bigger ones should be painted before glueing.
    I have glued them edge-to-edge (without connecting stripes) with contact adhesive (that yellow moment). Very easy and quick. I love that glue :)
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8193.jpg]


    Seat. Still not finished. I need safety-belts :/ OH! And compare this seat to plastic one. Fiasco!
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8199.jpg]


    Hmmm, I dont even imagine, how those instrument cups should looke like. What size, shape and so on..
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8195.jpg]


    I dont know what this instrument is for.
    I did not like Humbrol ClearFix for making glassy look. Why? When I made frame, and filled it with ClearFix everything looked smooth, but when it dried, it settled down and became coarse. So then got angry and inserted the small circle made from clear plastic sheet.
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8189.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8191.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Thank you Jan :)


    Now I want to ask your help. I need interior photos. Please help.
    I've found plenty of He-111 photos, I also have some literature, but there are mostly exterior or diorama positioning photographs :( For example, I need the back view of instrument panels, pilot's seat, nose gunner's/bomber's "bed", etc. - this is a rarity :)


    Photos can be even from another model (like this photo):


    [Blocked Image: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal4/3501-3600/gal3592_He-111_Ulgur/03.jpg]


    This is the best photo I've found... Besides, pilot's seat is different, that given in GPM magazine (mine, and this plastic plane are both H6). I'm getting confused :rotwerd:


    Oh, and if you find anything with swastika, then PM me.


    Thank you for help. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    I've been absent for a while, but model was progressing. Just it was nothing new to show here.


    So I started my favourite place - the cockpit. The edges of the seat are sanded and rounded. Seat is awaiting for general painting. The "wire-seat" is unfinished also. Moreover, some detalization for all these parts awaits. At least I will make safety belts according to real photos.
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8165.jpg]


    Fuselage. I would like to have nicer seams. Besides, blue bottom is blotted in some places. I still lack some skills. The color is quite light, and I always have to spoil it :/ I must be more careful about that.
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8173.jpg]


    Tailwheel well. You can see, that the main seam is quite ugly. I lack nicety. In addition, I have read, that paper edge, before connecting, must be sanded (like this /), than just straight cut out with knife (like this |). So this way, the paper will connect much more precisely. Paper thickness is the main problem here.
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8169.jpg]


    One of the segments. With a gunner nest and many windows. I added frames to panel instruments (like I did in SR-71 or P-38). Those instruments were framed with painted wire. Glass was imitated by putting a drop of Humbrol ClearFix.
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8177.jpg]


    Thats all ;). Now I will have less time than before, but I won't stick. Well, I had holiday since Christmas (January was our university's exam session, but it was very easy for me, since I have finished all subjects before Christmas. My average mark is 9.8 :) ) This disbalanced me a little bit. Now back to routine, but routine has good influence on humans :P
    Good luck! ;)
    --

    Wow, guys! I wasn't expecting such kind comments. THANK YOU EVERYBODY!! :)


    Martin: Mechanic was not covered with varnish. I'm going to do it soon. Then I was just too lazy to do that. Moreover - mechanic looks more like those Warhammer miniatures (tabletop game, that I am interested too :) I collect armies). I mean, that there are too strong contrasts and colors. Next time (in order to add realism) I won't use such extreme drybrush/wash and will make figure less loud and more realistic to realworld man.


    Thank you again. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hello TAD,


    Very beautiful plane. I am amazed by how precisely you build it. I have a quest: What varnish do you use, and why you laquer separate parts instead of whole model (after it is finished). I know, that polish people are very concered about varnishing models. Can you tell your position about this :)


    Thanks and good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Thanks for comments =)
    ;( I see how many problems are caused, when you build german plane. We cannot fully avoid the so called symbols :tongue:


    Now some progress:


    Everything just "thrown into one pile". Seams will match better, but as I checked, it can do even better... well - shortage of experience. Also I managed to spoil a little that blue bottom area of the fuselage. Since color is rather light, just a little drop of glue or whatever else can make an ugly smear. Lack of experience again. The same is with P-38's bottom. One thing makes me happier, that when everything will be in place, those smears won't attract one's attention very much :P It seems, that I wash hand often enough, but I think i need rubber gloves :rotwerd:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8116.jpg]


    And I finished tail parts. Everything was glued with that holy yellow "Moment". You must cover BOTH parts with it. Let a minute or two to dry. Then you can easily touch the glue without even smearing your fingers - it seems that glue is dried, but for real - it is not. And when you touch the parts - they bind hell strong. I nearly teared one of my parts, when I was trying to deattach it after positioning incorrectly. So this should be handled with care and everything will be brilliant. Besides this, glue does not moist (and deform) paper. It has no water in composition, because it is nitro based glue. One more thing, that should be cared - are these elastic glue "strings", but if you find the right way how to work with, they won't be a problem anymore . Even if a string falls on part, you can easily take it off.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/tail_german.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo Jan,


    You never stop to amaze us. Your model is an example, how card models should be made. My eyes cannot believe when watching your model. All those matched seams, clean and smooth surfaces.. EVERYTHING perfect! =D> =D> =D> =D>


    Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo


    Thank you for comments.


    Tino: Wow, it is nice, that you have the whole building review. I'm surely gonna to study it throughout. As from first photos it looks beautiful =D> =D> =D> I love your model. It is always very interesting to see other models, when you are building the same yourself.


    About translators - I always use them, so you can write here in german also. I know some great online translators.


    Babelfish (No. 1): http://babelfish.altavista.com/
    Google: http://www.google.com/translate_t
    Polish-English (check this out!!): http://www.poltran.com/
    Russian-English: http://www.rustran.com/


    Ahh those formers. They are always too big. I suppose, that authors allways leaves them, because you can always sand (but never add :D). Moreover, as I am strenghening paper by thickening all "fuselage skins" from inside with whatman (160g/m^2), the diameter shrinks even more, and I have to sand off quite an amount.
    I won't enlarge on this technique much, because it was explained in my SR-71 topic, here in kartonbau.de.


    Tino, can you explain this more in detail:


    Quote

    Originally posted by Tino
    Also there are one tread in this forum were you can see a list with more advises.


    What advices do you mean, and where are they located?


    Oh, and Tino, you have a very nice portugese forum. I'm going to check it out more.


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    A little update.


    These are hinges for moving surfaces:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8084.jpg]


    Wooden framework. I suggest using special wood PVA when working with wood. For example "Moment Wood". In my case it is "Bison Wood".


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8089.jpg]


    Fully assembled fins. I have showed their frames with foam before. They are really strong, because of foam and other techniques used. I think, that they covered the framework quite nice. Besides that "grey interior" was white, so I had to mix colour and paint. For such places I used "Model Master" enamels for plastic models. Aquarelle is not very suitable, because here you have to paint large areas (not just edges).


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8099.jpg]


    This is a video showing why wood is better than ordinary cardboard:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/th_IMGP8087-1.jpg]


    [Click the image if you want to see the video]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Ok. A little update.


    Firstly, I forgot to capture how I was building the wooden framework, but I will do it when I will be doing the fin.


    So what I was doing today:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8075.jpg]


    Very nice framework design. 10/10 score for GPM. I have filled it with roughly cut foam (approximation with hand, but since it is not very hard, you can shape it a little with fingers)


    I sanded it on abrasive disc.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8078.jpg]


    And a layer of paper (whatman, ~160g/m^2). Like my fellow wooden ship modeller would say - "black" planking (term used on wooden ship models). Now I have a nice base for skin parts and overall good toughness. Besides you can see various "forms" of paints :) I am successfully using them.


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8079.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck ;)
    --

    pawell,


    Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge.


    1) Unfortunately we do not have such spray-glue here (or I'm clumsy enough, that I hadn't found one)


    2) Makroflex in our country is a foam used to fill in seams, when you insert new doors or windows. they also are heat insulators.
    I mean not spraying "wet" foam directly into model. Sinci it expands rapidly it may tear apart the whole framework... but I have seen this done in model ships. But in my case, I advice to spray the whole foam in some box, and then just take little by little, cut, sand and so on.
    Currently I am using some vintage foam used for fishing floats, floats on nets of "live" fishing with floats, that are attached to swimming crucian fishes (they lure predator fishes, like pikes). Makrolfex is just an alternative in my mind :P But overall I want to strenghen the model, so I am looking for various reinforcment solutions.


    3) I totally agree with you about water-based paint. Well, I haven't rejected enamels yet. I'm going to use them for same purposes, like you do.


    4) Oil pastels. At first sight it looks good, but we'll see later, when my model progresses.


    Thats all. Thanks again and good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo,


    Long ago, I have showed some progress pics on a this forum of this model. Maybe someone saw them? If I am not mistaken, it was in Malo's topic about Flymodel's P-38 preview. But now it is fully complete. It even has a diorama now.
    This was a model for our first lithuanian contest (aka "Group Build") and I won a prize. Now I have entered the model to the dishmodels.ru russian contest also. It is called "Dishow 2006" It is a very tough contest, because models in there are so awesome. But still I'm happy to see my Lightning among other participants:


    http://www.dishmodels.ru/gshow.htm?p=2170


    Dishow 2006: http://www.dishmodels.ru/dishow2006/


    About my model. This is what I wrote for the contest:



    And pictures:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.dishmodels.ru/photo/g02170_8153928.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://www.dishmodels.ru/photo/g02170_6983522.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://www.dishmodels.ru/photo/g02170_2399882.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://www.dishmodels.ru/photo/g02170_6635440.jpg]

    Hallo freunde,


    Thank you for such nice comments and warm welcome. I am so happy to see all those friendly faces on those small avatars again :) I have updated my pic also, because the previous one was 3 years old 8).


    Jorg, Martin: Thank you :) Pics are OK now.


    pawell: Thanks for nice greetings to Lithuania :) Yes, this is quite a difficult model with some complex forms. A real headache will be eliptical wings and their attachement to fuselage - probably the most complex place of a model. Greenhouse will be another challenge also, but I will show it later. I will start from tail.


    cmelak: Thank you for expalantion about this. Now it's getting clearer


    Tino: I have analyzed your model's every dot in your photos. I was surfing all forums for the pics and yours were the best. I have learned many things. Your model is really good. I wish I could achieve such level =D>


    ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    Now I want to make a little introduction into this build. I advice to read this topic to every amateur, that is going to the higher level (since I'm just an amateur, trying to get higher, this topic is very important for me).
    So I would call this message:


    "Changes and new discoveries"


    First of all - what is the deal? I haven't discussed with many modellers about this, but I have talked to my fellow modeler Donatas (he's like my teacher) and ex-modeler - my fathe. For example, Donatas can be proud of his cardplanes collection. He has more than 30 precisely made models. And what about me? I was building "Lightning" allmost for two years (offcourse, I had a break, because I was finishing school; final exams; etc.). And if I don't change such tendency, after 5 years I will have two more models in my collection. That's not good. So, the time has come when I have to limit myself and make some changes. Ok, I totally agree, that everyone must push himself to the limits of perfectness. But let's take an example: without limiting yourself, you can build model for ten years. But this gives you more minuses than pluses. Simple - even if the model is super-detailed and accurate, but on the other hand you will have only ONE model. That precious time will be gone forever (life's short), and you will add only one model to your collection. Besides, there are more bad sides. As we work with paper, it has a bad feature to decay. Plane's nose will be rotten after ten years, when you will be finishing tail... It is common to varnish the model after it is finished. So during that decade, your not-varnished nose will decay.
    To sum up, I want to make model FAST. I want to have large collection of models, that are quality too.
    So, this time I am not going to pursue that "unreachable" perfectness. I'm going to put all my knowledge and skill in making the model of the "Lightning's" quality, but several times faster. And thanks to all those online forums and their members who helped me to gain this knowledge.
    I have defined quite a tough schedule for this model, but I'm not telling it here, because I may not make it on time. Also I have some thoughts to make some articles about basic paper modelling, and advanced aircraft modelling from A to Z (the article would focus on this He-111). But this is quite misty, because I haven't even finished this model :) Maybe in the future. It will depend on the final result of He-111 and my free time. I will write it in Lithuanian, and then translate it into English.


    Thats all. I think this is an important topic, because it becomes sad, when you think what will happen if you are not increasing speed. Besides, it adds some difficulty, because you must make it faster while retaining the quality.


    So for today I will show two photos with plenty of things, that will help reaching my goals.


    What's new?


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8064.jpg]


    Some untraditional items to paper-modeler.


    1. Miraculous glue - "Moment". You should know it, because they are universal yellow glue (see, german label), that have quite a smell and no WATER in composition, that moists paper and makes us go mad.. You can glue frame parts on cardboard, do other works and your paper will never get wrinkly. They dry much faster than common white PVA. But you must be careful with it, because you can easily make ugly stains on your model.


    2. Foam. Similar foam is used for fishing. Various floats (for fishing poles, nets and "live" catchers with crucians). It is NOT sea foam. It is similar to filler "Macroflex", that is sprayed out and dried. Offcourse you get additional work with the foam, but it makes model much stronger (oh, I haven't mentioned, that I use it fill voids in wings, fuselage - to make model more rigid). This is a rare material. Mostly stolen from USSR.. offcourse I'm kidding. Oh you don't know what was going on in USSR. Stealing was common. Once L. Brezhnev said, that if a man needs something, he can allways steal it. Fortunately I was just a kid then. I grew up in independant country, so I am not spoiled :]. But when I run out of this foam, I will try "Macroflex".


    3. We call it "aviation scaleboard". But to make things clearer I will call it a thin (1mm) plywood. It is much better than cardboard. It does not DEFORM. The toughness of the wooden framework is some times tougher than cardboard framework. Besides, when you have very sharp and thin parts, this plywood retains rigid and strong, while card begins to crack and so on... Also it is much easier to work with it. Easy to sand. Again, thanks for Donatas that gave me such rare materials (foam is also from him). But I'm running out of this plywood also. We need some alternatives. I heard that Poland's model shops have a wide choice of such plywood, so maybe you will have them also, but, here in Lithuania, we have none. I was thinking about plastic PVC sheets. You know them? They are white sheets of plastic, there are various thichnesses. Our food containers (like margarine) are made from very thin PVC plastic. Fortunately we have such materials in our country. Oh, I have seen such things in Belgian model shop in Hasselt (i think it is called "Broux"). So these are materials, that are alternative (but better) than cardboard.


    4. Stick Glue. You can easily glue frame parts to cardboard, plywood or some other material. Very fast and waterless way. But they are mostly suitable only for thickening parts


    5. Bison Wood glue. They help, when working with wood. These glue are based on common white PVA, but they are more advanced. Faster drying time, stronger joins.


    6. Watercolours. Very comfortable paint, toxic-less. It is very easy to mix colors, easy to paint. Very easy to clean palette, bottles and mostly IMPORTANT - brushes. You save so much time! You don't need whitespirit or other toxic stuff. Again, you do everything faster because you don't need to bother with difficult brush cleaning (just put under the tap - and thats all), you don't have to ventilate rooms from fumes and so on. Everything is clean and fast. Oh, I suggest to use not dry or liquid aquarelle, but the viscous one. Then you can make it a little stiffer, what helps you in modelling. As you know, the stiff aquarelle paint are not a good idea in painting. Painters make up to fifty layers with aquarell. This is not a good idea if you want to save time in modelling :P As an alternative I see acrylic, gouache and tempera. But I am a friend of aquarelle, because I use it in university and for painting (I do it sometimes).


    7. Natural hair brush. Perfect coverin, but you should know, that they are only suitable for aquarelle. You will kill them if you use them with enamels or other toxic paints. There syntetic or bristle brushes should be used.


    8. Oil pastels. For edge colouring. This idea was given by our lithuanian forum's admin. He has the whole collection of them, but I think that you don't need them all (unless you draw with them, but I, personally, don't like oil pastels). So I advice to everone, who want to try pastels - take your paper magazine, go to art shop and try to find similar colour (I give 90% that you will find the suitable color, because it is a very wide choice of oil pastels). But ask only for TOP quality. Like these "Van Gogh". And that way you will save money, because you don't have to throw away a bunch of money at once for the whole set of oil pastels. And don't mix oil pastels with soft pastels (also known as chalk). These are different things. Soft pastels are mostly used in plastic modelling, mostly for making exaust stains and other weathering.
    I haven't met the faster way to paint edges. Maybe felt-tip pencils. But I do not advice them, because color changes (and it may change from nearly red to green) in time and spoils the whole model. Also I should say, that after painting with oil pastel, you have to rub paint with your finger and be careful of pastel's excess. You can easily smear the part. After finishing painting edges, you have to wash hands. And at last, I must say that oil pastels are thinned with turpentine (if somebody need it).:)


    As you see, I have mentioned word fast five times. I hope, that this will help me to make things faster and retaining the same quality:)


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8062.jpg]


    What's that? These are things, that I don't need anymore. Toxic paint. They consume much time, during which I could build a bomb or two :)


    As you see, I am more and more using "non-sport" technologies (they are so-called in Lithuania, Russia, Poland..). Less pure paper, more other materials. Some of you can blame me for that. But I can still call my models - paper, because they are based on virgin polish magazines, not scratched from wood, plastic or other material.
    As our model shopkeeper, during our community meet, said: "Models are fraud. Every model is lie, because we will never make a "model". Except 1:1 copies. But they are still just copies.. Just look - we don't cover SR-71 with titanium, we don't put radars into model ships that track planes ad so on. Besides, we have scale, and some things are impossible. We do not build parts, that are 1cm size on real plane. In model they would be microscopic.. We just make models for our pleasure, so why I should be limited only to paper (oh, we are allowed to use wire and clear plastic :D, so why I cannot use wood, plastic or even tin).
    Resuming to "Non-sport" building. Unreinforced model won't live long. It is easy to say for plastic modellers, because their models are made from durable material. But.. we're kartonists. As all know, paper is not a very durable material... Just look at your bookshelf and see the books that are older than 20 years. How do they look like?
    However. This is not adaptable to every model. Tanks, vehicles and small planes do not have such problems, because they are small, they don't have large areas or high stress areas. If they are well varnished, they will live for ages (hehe, but tankers have other problems, that we, aviators, don't have). But I love LARGE models. Imagine the huge GPM's B-52 made ONLY according to instructions. After a year or two, his wings will sag, large areas will have dimples. Model will be destroyed. So we must reinforce it if we want to rejoice afer 5 or more years :)


    So much the philosophy. I think that this post will be interesting to many of you. I am eagerly waiting for feedback and comments. if you have questions - feel free to ask here.


    Good luck! ;)
    --


    P.S. The idea of this message is not to increase the time, dedicated for model (in account of your studies, work and family), but to do more during the same time.

    Hello,


    Hey everyone! It's been a long since.. :) Nice to see you all again ;)


    Ok, now to the model:


    HEINKEL He-111


    Short History


    In the early 1930s, Ernst Heinkel decided to build the world's fastest passenger plane, a lofty goal met with more than a little skepticism by the German aircraft industry. To make matters worse, he entrusted the development to the Günter brothers, the fairly new and untested company.
    To everyone's surprise they delivered on the promise, delivering an aircraft superior to the already fast Lockheed 9 "Orion", that their design was competing against. The first example of their soon-to-be-famous Heinkel He 70 Blitz (Lightning) rolled off the line in 1932 and immediately started breaking record after record. It cruised at almost 200 mph (320 km/h), even though it was powered by only a single 600 hp (447 kW) BMW V1 engine. The elliptical wing, which the Günther brothers had already used in the Bäumer Sausewind sports plane, before they joined Heinkel, became a feature in many designs, the brothers developed subsequently. It was only a matter of time before they turned their attention to developing a larger and more powerful twin-engine version of the Blitz, producing a plane that had many of the Blitz's features including its elliptical wing with an inverted gull wing, small rounded control surfaces, and BMW engines. With location of the engines - the only notable change in appearance. The new He 111 design was often called the Doppel-Blitz (Double Lightning). The design immediately attracted the interest of the Luftwaffe, who were looking for any design that could be pressed into military service. Plane was renamed to He-111 and the serial production started. Within the time, plane was upgraded more and more. This was the most important Luftwaffe's medium bomber at the beginning of WWII. It is known for its performance ir Battle over Britain (almost a symbol of BoB). Because this plane had pre-war design, it's utilization faded from 1942. But this aircraft was still built until 1944 for other tasks.
    Ok, I don't want to enlarge on this too much. Overall, this is a very interesting plane, with some interesting, but complex forms. I'm going to enjoy this build.


    Also I know, that there were many versions of He-111. The magazine tells, that this is a H-6, but I found, that H-6 was a torpedo bomber, while this model is equipped with bombs. I don't know ?( ... I hope, that within the time being we will find out more about this model (maybe a polish translation of text will help :) )


    About main characterstics:


    Characteristics


    Crew: 5 (pilot, navigator/bombardier, nose gunner, ventral gunner, dorsal gunner)
    Lenght: 16.4m
    Wingspan: 22.5m
    Height: 3.9m
    Wing area: 86.5 m²
    Empty weight: 7,720 kg
    Full weight: 12,030 kg (Max. take-off weight: 14,075 kg)
    Engines: two Jumo 211F-1 liquid-cooled, inverted V-12, 986 kW (1,300 AG) each
    Max. speed: 400 km/h
    Ceiling: 8,390 m
    Max. range: 2,800 km with maximal fuel


    Armament:


    Guns:
    Up to seven 7.92 mm MG 15 ar MG 81 machine-guns. Some replaced to: 1×20 mm MG FF cannon (nose) ir 1×13 mm MG 131 cannon (behind cockpit).


    Bombs:
    2,000 kg outside and 1× 500 kg inside, alternatively 2,000 kg inside.


    Depending on version the armament type, quantity, fuel capacity, range ant other parameters may vary.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Comparable aircraft:


    Polish PZL-37 Los
    English Vickers Wellington
    Americans B-25 Mitchell
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Production timeline:


    Bf 108 - Bf 109 - Bf 110 - He 111 - He 112 - He 114 - He 115


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    This aircraft starred in some movies (mostly war-movies). Offcourse, it was not as popular as C-47 or B747, but still, this is an achievement.
    This plane was used in many other countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Romania, Slovakia, China and Spain. Moreover, this plane was produced in Spain by CASA company (renamed to CASA 2.111, but still, it was nearly the same aircraft) and used for local tasks even up to 1965.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pictures:


    First pic shows Heinkel over London. Fortunately, it didn't destroy Big Ben :P


    [Blocked Image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/44/Heinkel_He_III_over_London_7_Sep_1940.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fe/He_111_Wreck_LOC_8e00286u.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://www.skovheim.org/located/troms/he111/he111vannar.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://www.richard-seaman.com/Aircraft/Museums/Hendon/GermanWw2/HendonHe111From10oClock.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://1000aircraftphotos.com/Contributions/Alfarrabista/3216L.jpg]


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/he111_1_3v.jpg]
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I started this model because of our lithuanian forum's contest (or as we call it "Group Build"). We elected the topic - WWII Germany, and consequently I started this project. I have aquired this model long ago. I had many choices for the contest (like B&V 138, Me-329 or even two smaller fighters like Me-262 + FW-190). The greatest Heinkel's opponent was Ju-52. But after some discussions with fellow modelers, I decided to leave it for the future, because Junker would consume all my summer (it is a VERY compelx model). I have to finish the model till this year's December.
    Model looks quite nice. Nice printing, detalization, colors, paper and so on. It has a minimal weathering (some shading). I don't know anything about fit, but we'll see. But I sense, that this is going to be a good model. Still... there're pics of a complete model on the magazine's cover.
    About "improvements": I really don't know.. Maybe I will do some scratch detalization, according to schemes and pictures, but I'm not going to do any major conversations or big works - like light illumination. Maybe spinning propellors :P Remeber, that I used lighting and extra detalizaton in my previous projects, like SR-71 or P-38? By the way, I did not forget my SR-71. It is not finished yet, but I'm going to distribute my time for both models, that SR-71 would have at least minor progress.
    Since this is a big model, I will have quite a work on reinforcing it. Thanks to my friend, who provided me with some special (thin, easy to work with) plywood, special foam, that I can't find it anywhere to buy (USSR legacy :rolleyes:) and other materials. He acquired this stuff long ago. Mostly from abandoned soviet airport near his home. If I was building small AFV, tanks or cars, I wouldn't have such problems. They are small, don't have large area's, big weight, areas under stress (like wings, bending down within time). But... since I love huge models, I have to do something with this. Also I was thinking (but only just thinking) about removeable wings. Just for better storing. And the last thing - we'll have some fun with this complex cockpit.


    About model:


    Magazine: GPM
    Issue: 8/2003
    Release date: 2003
    Part count: Don't know. If I find out - i will post.
    Difficulty level: 3 from 3 (according to GPM)
    Lenght: 50cm
    Wingspan: 68cm
    Height: 14cm
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pictures of magazine:


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8012-1.jpg]
    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8015.jpg]
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    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8023-1.jpg]


    It should look like that :):


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8026-1.jpg]


    And this is from what I was choosing for Group Build :) (There are no Maly Modelarz or some other rough models). But still, those vehicles were just to add to "German" topic. Mostly I build airplanes (maybe in future I will take ground vehicle).


    [Blocked Image: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/Mindauxx/IMGP8020-1.jpg]


    Thats all. Within the progress I will post more information about plane itself and model. Good luck! ;)
    --


    :twisted:

    Hello,


    It's been a long time since I last posted in this forum. I missed everyone very much here :) I hope I will be active here like I was during old days :) Unfortunately I haven't done much on SR-71, but the P-38 Lightning is allmost finished. I will show it here very soon :) Well, I was rather busy several last months, because I was finishing school, moving to university and so on. There wasn't much time left among those studies. I will tell more later, but what I can say, that I have made my way to Architecture University ;)


    Also, I have fixed the broken image links in this topic! :]


    Good luck everybody ;)
    --

    Hey pawell,


    Your model is incredible!!! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


    I just bought an IL2m3 also, but not from GPM. It is from WAK (a new publisher). It has a different paintjob. I hope, that in the future your build review will help me, since our models are very similar.


    And I've got a question? What is the real colour of the interior? Mine is some greyish sky-blue. Your is a bit more greyish. In addition, my seat is of the same colour as interior, and in your case it is silver.
    So how everything should be?


    Thanks and good luck! ;)
    --

    Hallo Harrier,


    Wow! Your Flying Fortress is turning out really nicely! I've never seen a build report of a such plane! Huge applauses from me!! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


    Also I like the idea of your box-model holder. I will make a similar box for myself. It helps to keep model safe and it reduces surface touching, which damages the surface: paint and paper.


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Thank you all for the warm comments. I am happy to be back and to talk with my friends on this forum again!


    Ok, back to model!


    I've made the air intakes. Someone here said, that intakes were a really bad nightmare, but I had worse spots. The worst thing that awaits is the skinning of the are between engines - the back of the plane..


    So, from the beginning. The intake is not very well designed. It is closed! That black disc should be a little deeper! But model is designed so.. and in order to change this, the intake should be redesigned at the beggining of building the engine frame. Lets say, the exaust tubes are deeper and they look better than those frontal intakes. The air intakes look like covered with some kind of plates (like the red plates, that are used to cover parked SR-71s). Another problem - the contraction on the right. It didn't met in one point. Look at the photo of the real intake. The tube of air intake is separate and the contraction occurs outside the tube. The contraction mets in one point.


    Danke für die netten Worte. Ich bin froh zurück zu sein und mit meinen Freunden hier im Forum zu reden!
    Ok, zurück zum Modell!
    Ich habe die Lufteinläße gebaut. Irgendwer hatte gesagt, die wären ein echter Alptraum, aber ich hatte schlimmere Stellen. Das schlimmste, was mich erwartet, ist die Beplankung zwischen den Triebwerken- auf der Rückseite der Maschine.
    Aber von Anfang an. Der Einlaß ist nicht sehr gut konstruiert. Er ist geschlossen! Die schwarze Scheibe sollte etwas tiefer sitzen! Aber das Modell ist so gedacht...Um das zu ändern, sollte der Einlass geändert werden, bevor die Triebwerke gebaut werden. Die Auslassröhren sind sozusagen tiefer und sehen besser aus als die vorderen. Die Einlässe sind mit einer Art Platten geschlossen (ähnlich den roten Platten, die zum Abdecken bei geparkten SR-71 verwendet werden). Ein weiteres Problem - die Einschnürung an der rechten Seite. Sie trifft sich nicht in einem Punkt. Schaut euch das Photo des echten Einlasses an. Die Röhre ist separat und die Einschnürung tritt an der Aussenseite auf. Die Einschnürung trifft sich in einem Punkt.


    [Blocked Image: http://img430.imageshack.us/img430/7097/img10041pw.th.jpg]


    So when I finished it, I got and ugly gap. I've filled it with tissue dipped in white glue and then I filled it fully with several covers of dilluted glue. Overall it is not so bad, but there I have a small flat area that is athwart to the flight path - air resistance!! It is not like in real model... But in this place much work is needed and the results are unknown. So I will leave it as it is. But I want to warn others, who are going to build this model, to examine and make changes for those tricky places. This place needs to be redesigned from the beginning. I would suggest not to make the outer parts that contract, but to make separate intake tube with inside and outside parts and then to attach that contracting tip to the side of the tube. One more thing that goes together with those problems - the inner tube was deformed a little bit. It should be perfectly round (like in photo of real plane), but it is a little bit deformed. But this is a minor problem. Another problem is, that outer parts do not fit perfectly with inner tube. I tried to make the inner tube to protrude, because then I can trim it according to the outer parts. If inner tube was deeper and outer parts were protruding, so then all the trimming would have made all the intake area totally spoilt. And lastly I've put some dilluted glue on the edges in order to make them round. Later I am going to paint all those white areas.


    Als ich also fertig war, klaffte hier eine Lücke. Ich habe sie mit in Weißleim getränktem Tissue gefüllt und denn Rest dann mit mehreren Lagen verdünntem Leim aufgefüllt. Alles in allem nicht so schlecht, aber nun ist da eine flache Fläche, die genau in Flugrichtung zeigt - Luftwiderstand! Ist halt nicht wie beim Original. Aber an dieser Stelle wäre viel Arbeit erforderlich mit ungewissem Ausgang. Also lasse ich es so wie es ist. Aber ich möchte alle anderen, die sich an diesem Modell versuchen wollen, hier genau hinzuschauen und die nötigen Änderungen zu machen. Diese Stelle muss von Grund auf umkonstruiert werden. Ich würde vorschlagen nicht die sich verjüngende Aussenseite zu nehmen, sondern eine einzelne Röhre anzufertigen mit Innen- un Aussenseite und dann die sich verjüngende Spitze von aussen anzubringen. Das Ganze zieht ein weiteres Problem nach sich. Die innere Röhre hat sich etwas verformt. Sie sollte perfekt kreisrund sein, aber ist etwas krumm geworden. Aber das ist ein kleineres Problem. Ein weiteres Problem ist, daß die Aussenteile nicht genau passten. Ich habe versucht, die innere Röhre etwas hervorstehen zu lassen, damit man diese zurechttrimmen kann. Würde man das mit der äußeren Röhre machen, wäre diese verdorben. Ich habe zum Schluß noch etwas verdünnten Leim auf die Kanten gegeben, damit sie rund werden. Diese weiseen Bereiche werde ich später noch übermalen.


    [Blocked Image: http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/508/imgp5337eng5ao.th.jpg]


    Next - tail. I've engraved panel lines with empty ballpointpen and ruler. This was made on my soft exercise book (the softer surface is - the deeper and sharper panels lines are, the harder surface is - vice versa). Also I've laminated the tail on double layer of whatman in order to make the tail really hard. Also I did one interesting thing. I've learnet the configuration of the tail and rudder on SR-71. And... it seems that the rudder in SR-71 is not like in classic planes (when the rudder is on the end of the tail). Whole tail above the lower line is a moveable surface (rudder)! So I cut out the rudder and painted edges in black. Then I painted that whatman for lamination in black also (in order not to see white colour underneath). And then I attached those tail parts leaving a small gap between them. Now the rudder looks like it is a separate part from tail.


    This technique is great, when separate aerodynamic surfaces are not designed on the model (lets say, A.Halinski designs separate surfaces, so there's no need to do this). Another - easier but not so impressive way is to engrave lines, between those surfaces, using very soft surface and ballpointpen. Soft surface is needed to get very deep panel lines. Also there's a way to change the whole designing of those surfaces, but then paper of the same colour is needed, there's much work when doing pivots, redesigning frameworks and the result might seem not so good...


    Als nächstes das Leitwerk. Ich habe die Beplankunsstöße mit einem leeren Kugelschreiber und einem Lineal eingraviert. Das habe ich auf meinem weichen Übungsbuch gemacht (je weicher die Oberfläche ist, umso tiefer werden die Gravuren, und umgekehrt). Zusätzlich habe ich das Leitwerk noch auf Karton laminiert, um es richtig hart zu machen. Ausserdem habe ich nochwas interessantes gemacht. Ich habe die Konfiguration der Ruder der SR-71 herausgefunden. Und es sieht aus, als wären die Ruder bei der SR-71 nicht so wie bei klassichen Flugzeugen (wo das Ruder am Ende der Flosse ist). Das gesamte Leitwerk ist eine bewegliche Fläche (Ruder)! Also habe ich es abgeschnitten und die Kanten schwarz gemalt. Dann habe ich den Karton zum verdoppeln auch schwarz eingefärbt. Dann habe ich diese Leitwerksteile mit einer kleinen Lücke dazwischen montiert. Jetzt sieht es aus, als wären sie vom Leitwerk getrennt.
    Diese Technik ist großartig, wenn beim Modell keine separat konstruierten Ruder vorhanden sind (bei Halinski z.B. haben die meisten Konstruktionen sowas schon). Weiterhin - einfacher aber nicht so beeindruckend ist das gravieren der Linien zwischen diesen Flächen mit dem Kugelschreiber und einer weichen Oberfläche. Man kann auch die Ruder komplett neu konstruieren, aber dann braucht man Papier derselben Farbe, die Scharniere sind sehr aufwendig, die Spanten auch und das Ergebnis sieht vielleicht gar nicht so gut aus...


    [Blocked Image: http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/471/imgp53428fy.th.jpg]


    Some additional frame parts were added - to get extra tightness and precision:


    Ein paar Spanten wurden zur Verstärkung hinzugefügt:


    [Blocked Image: http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/471/imgp53456su.th.jpg]


    And finished exaust tubes:


    Die fertigen Treibwerksauslässe.


    [Blocked Image: http://img426.imageshack.us/img426/1848/imgp53496bh.th.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --

    Hello guys,


    I've been busy lately. School, sports and other things disturb me and I can't model.


    Also the journey home from Slovakia wasn't very lucky. I've been in accident. Our bus crashed.


    Hallo Leute,
    ich war in letzter Zeit sehr beschäftigt. Schule, Sport und andere Sachen haben mich vom bauen abgehalten.
    Und die Rückreise aus Slovakien war auch nicht sehr glücklich. Wir hatten einen Unfall mit dem Bus.


    [Blocked Image: http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/691/avarija011lp.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/5129/avarija034ds.th.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4/avarija134kq.th.jpg]


    In the small village it drove into the turn on a slippery road and suddenly one car overtook us and stopped because some cars were turning left (they were letting by several opposite drivers). Our bus driver started to break, but he saw that he won't make it. So the choise was - stopped cars or the trench. Driver thought, that he would slip pass those cars on the roadside, but the roadside was too narrow. But the worst thing, that there was a concrete bridge across the trench to houses. So driver expected to slip pass the bridge and then to fall into trench, but the bus slided into the trench before the bridge. Bus crashed into the bridge and all bus front was pushed till the stairs into passengers salon. The resting (the one who sit on the left side) driver tried to jump into salon, but his legs were caught. One leg was broken in two places (one open break), thights were slashed and one rib was broken. If he hadn't jumped up, so the hips might got broken. So it is better than broken hips...


    Passengers were not hurt. Just some minor wounds, hurts and other sundries. I was just scraped in several places.


    But I want to say a very big THANKS for all people of Poland. You are the best! If you read my topic I want to express my biggest thanks for you!!!


    People, whose bridge was, quickly brought tea, wraps and let us inside.


    The rescue workers arrived in several minutes. They quickly evacuated all people and freed the trapped driver. People that complained about their health were taken to hospital.


    Then they took us to their station-house, gave us food and everything we needed. As we waited for other bus they've been with us and when we got in another bus, they even thanked us for such a nice time spent togeher. But wait! We are the ones that must thank those polish men!


    By the way. These rescue workers are called "Straz" in polish language.


    Polish people left me the best impression they could!


    Oh, and I had much more serious wound in the "Freeride Zone". I've pulled the straps of my left knee.
    This is a man from our group on that zone where we rode.


    In dem kleinen Dorf ist er auf glatter Strasse in eine Kurve gefahren, als uns plötzlich ein Wagen überholte. Der musste dann bremsen, weil andere Autos links abbiegen wollten, die einige andere Autos durchließen. Unser Busfahrer fing an zu bremsen, aber hat schon gesehen, daß er es nicht schaffen würde. Die Wahl war also - die Autos oder der Strassengraben. Der Fahrer dachte, daß er am Strassenrand noch zwischen den Autos durchpassen würde, aber es war zu eng. Aber das Schlimmste war, daß dort eine Betonbrücke über den Strassengraben zu den Häusern führte. Der Fahrer dachte, er könnte an der Brücke vorbei in den Graben rutschen, ist aber genau davor reingerutscht. Der Bus ist also voll in die Brücke gekracht und die Front bis zur Treppe in den Fahrgastraum gedrückt worden. Der links sitzende Fahrer hat noch versucht in den Innenraum zu springen, ist aber an den Beinen erwischt worden. Ein Bein war an zwei Stellen gebrochen (ein offener Bruch) und ein paar Rippen waren gebrochen. Wenn er nicht aufgesprungen wäre, hätte er sich vielleicht noch die Hüfte gebrochen...


    Passagiere sind nicht verletzt worden. Ein paar kleinere Wunden, Verletzungen und andere Blessuren. Ich habe nur diverse Kratzer abbekommen.


    Aber ich möchte ein großes DANKESCHÖN an die Menschen in Polen schicken. Ihr seid die Besten! Wenn ihr das hier lest, ich möchte meinen großen Dank aussprechen.
    Die Leute, denen die Brücke gehörte, haben uns Tee und Decken gebrahct und uns reingelassen.
    Die Rettungsleute kamen innerhalb weniger Minuten. Sie haben die Leute sehr schnell herausgeholt und auch den eingeklemmten Fahrer befreit. Leute, denen es schlecht ging, wurden ins Krankenhaus gebracht.
    Sie haben uns dann mit in die Rettungsstation genommen und uns Essen und alles, was wir brauchte, gegeben. Sie haben die Zeit mit uns verbracht, während wir auf einen anderen Bus gewartet haben und als wir dann los mussten, haben sie uns noch für die nette Zeit gedankt. Aber Moment! Wir sind diejenigen, die sich bei den polnischen Leuten bedanken müssen.
    Übrigens, die Rettungsleute heissen "straz" auf polnisch.
    Die polnischen Leute haben die besten Eindruck bei mir hinterlassen!
    Oh, viel schlimmere Verletzungen habe ich mir in der Freeride Zone zugezogen. Ich habe mit die Bänder am linken Knie abgerissen.
    Hier ein Mann aus unserer Gruppe:

    [Blocked Image: http://img486.imageshack.us/img486/4594/slovakija20060374wg.th.jpg]


    Some photos of climbing to the south side (no lifts are lifting to the peak, so people must go on foot)
    Also we found ourselves in a very difficult situation - a cloud, where visibility is about 8 meters. But this was the most fun part of holiday!



    Ein paar Bilder vom Erklimmen der Südseite (Lifte gibts da nicht, man muss zu Fuss hoch)
    Wir sind auch noch in eine schwierige Situation gekommen, weil hier eine Wolke aufgezogen ist, mit Sichtweiten um 8m. Aber das hat am meisten Spaß gemacht!


    [Blocked Image: http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9692/slovakija20060779ms.th.jpg]


    When we were returning, the cloud descended:
    Als wir zurückkamen, waren die Wolken weg.
    [Blocked Image: http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2121/slovakija20061196tr.th.jpg]


    Thats all. Good luck! ;)
    --