Display MoreHallo Daniel,
das ist merkwürdig. Diese 109 habe ich nie besessen und aus meiner F-4 habe ich Korrekturteile ausgeschnitten.
Hat Halinski die womöglich zweimal in einen Bogen gedruckt?
VG
Zaphod
I think I got the errata from the trop too.
I guess that Halinski used the trop kit to make F-2 by changing colors and upgrading a few parts.
I remember that the internal surface part was a bit bigger than expected.
I make the inner surface part thinner by sanding
and then add one more inner surface part.
Here are the output of the cowling works.
Now adding rings one by one.
One more
.
One more
inside
I added extra thin papers to strenthen the parts.
The instant glue is good for quick drying but brittle.
The cowling construction starts.
The original parts in the kit has errors so the publisher put errata in the kit publised later.
I don't remember the kit which had errata but I built the model and saved the errata.
The first ring
I was asked how I glued parts side by side from time to time.
No special method. Just slowly aligning the sides and gluing them with small amount of an instant glue.
One more part are added to the fuselag
Display MoreHello Seo,
wow, great choice and great progress, nice adversary for the Dauntless.
Kind regards
Zaphod
I found a nice drawing for what you said "nice adversary"
Display MoreHello Seo,
thank you for the fantastic pictures ! She looks as if she is ready to tumble along the flight deck and to take off in search for Shokaku and Zuikaku.
Kind regards
Zaphod
I am glad you liked the Dauntless. I like the movies of the old and the new Midway.
Amazing, Seo, an incredible result! Many Thanks for showing us your work.
... and please, never give up building this beautyful warbirds!
Regards from germany!
Matthias
Matthias, Thank you so much for your kind encouragement. I still can see pieces of paper model parts with magnifying glasses. I am on my way.
Hello Seo!
A wonderfull Plane! Congratulations!
Christoph, Thank you so much for your kind encouragement.
Hey, Seo,
great! I´m looking forward to see this ship grow.
I´m impressed that you try a crossover between to editions.But regarding the precision of Grygiels work (I assume, that he´s responsible for both editions), I´m sure, you will manage that.
All the best
Till
Till, Thank you so much for advice. I haven't thought parts would be different on different editions. I just assuemd that Halinkski changed only colors, upgrading a few sections. I will be careful of them.
Display MoreHello Seo,
wow, great choice and great progress, nice adversary for the Dauntless.
Kind regards
Zaphod
Thank you so much for your wonderful proposal.
Constructing a Zero would be a lot of fun.
Und noch ein paar Bildchen.
(ich hab gesehen, dass eine Höhenruderfläche etwas runterhängt - leicht labile Konstruktion - ist schon repariert.
It is a beautiful construction. Great !!!
The bottom front section is put from the front
After adding one more part of the fuselage
Here are four sub section of assemblies.
Putting the bottom middile section to the fuselage first
Followed by the bottom rear section.
Done
The parts for the rear section fuselage and the vertical stabilizer
I decided to separate the frame into four assemblies.
The original design is to build one body frame and to cover the frame with surface parts.
Due to the tailhook bay and the rear wheel bay, it was very difficult to align all the parts together.
It will be much clear when I assembly those separate frame assemblies.
The inner surface of the rear wheel bay is glued first.
The original instruction is to put this inner surface to the frame and to cover the frame with the outer surface.
Again very difficult to align the hole.
The same risk for the tailhook bay.
It was very difficult to align the tailhook bay (assembled bay to the frame) to the surface part when I covered the frame.
I attach the bay first to the surface part.
The work starts from the back portion of the fuselage.
Joining outside surface parts without frames inside
.
I started a new bottle of CA glue. Fresh glue always works best for getting those quick, clean joins.
(Gmini)
Ich habe eine neue Flasche CA-Kleber angefangen. Frischer Kleber funktioniert einfach am besten, um diese schnellen und sauberen Verklebungen hinzubekommen.
I’m starting a new Halinski project: the A6M2 Zero (Issue 3/2005).
I actually built this same kit about 20 years ago, but the Zero is one of those planes I’ve always wanted to tackle again to see what I can do with my current skillset. My plan for this build is to incorporate the flaps from the 2015 Halinski version. While it might have been easier to just build the 2015 kit, I really prefer the colors on the 2005 edition.
After doing some research into IJN colors, I confirmed that the grey tones were used early in the war, while the green camouflage became the standard later on. So, I’ll be borrowing the flap design from the newer kit but sticking to the 2005 model for everything else. I've already treated the sheets with a fixative spray to get things started.
(Gemini)
Ich starte ein neues Halinski-Projekt: die A6M2 Zero (Ausgabe 3/2005).
Eigentlich habe ich genau diesen Bogen schon vor etwa 20 Jahren einmal gebaut, aber die Zero ist eines dieser Flugzeuge, die ich unbedingt noch einmal in Angriff nehmen wollte – einfach um zu sehen, was ich mit meinen heutigen Fähigkeiten heute daraus machen kann. Mein Plan für diesen Bau ist es, die Landeklappen der 2015er Halinski-Version zu integrieren. Es wäre zwar wahrscheinlich einfacher gewesen, direkt das 2015er Modell zu bauen, aber mir gefallen die Farben der 2005er Ausgabe viel besser.
Nachdem ich mich ein wenig in die IJN-Farben eingelesen habe, wurde mir bestätigt, dass die Grautöne in der frühen Kriegsphase verwendet wurden, während die grüne Tarnung erst später zum Standard wurde. Ich werde also das Design der Landeklappen vom neueren Bogen übernehmen, aber ansonsten beim 2005er Modell bleiben. Ich habe die Bögen bereits mit Fixativ eingesprüht, damit es jetzt losgehen kann.
Thank you so much for your supports and encouragements.
Here come the photos for the complete SBD Dauntless as promised.
Well, absolutely fantastic, my dear paper model engineer.
Display MoreHello Seo,
OUTSTANDING
!
Regards
HaJo
Thank you so much for your kind encouraging words. Till and Hajo.
Thanks a lot.
It´s the same way I do it, except I use simply wax to fill the moulds.
I just asked because your result is so nice.
In Inwalds manual a description is seen that he seems to use thermoplastic (?) plastics, lays it over the moulds and heatens it, so it nestles against the mould.Quite funny.
Till,
I actually tried a similar technique using thermoplastic film, but I couldn't get it to work quite right. Gravity alone wasn't enough to pull the film over the mold—the 'natural sag' just didn't work. I even built a DIY vacuum platform to try and pull the heated film down and wrap the mold completely. It helped a little, but the results weren't great. For proper vacuum forming, I think I’d need a much better heater and a stronger vacuum pump.
I also experimented with heat-shrink tubing (the kind used for wire insulation). That worked to an extent, but the film thickness was an issue after shrinking; it became too thick and started looking opaque. Plus, the uneven thickness meant the optical clarity was not uniform over the place. To top it off, the canopy would often shrink a bit more after being removed from the mold, so the final size was off.
In the end, I’ve decided to stick with my 20-year-old tried-and-true method: epoxy molds and PVC film. I picked up a budget heat gun from Amazon for about $30, and it turns out you don't need a high-end industrial one—1800W is plenty for 0.2mm thick PVC film. While PVC isn't perfect, it’s cheap and easy to find in letter-sized sheets.
A couple of tips from my experience:
I hope these would be helpful.
(Gemini helped)
ich habe tatsächlich mal eine ähnliche Technik mit Thermoplast-Folie ausprobiert, aber ich habe es nicht wirklich zufriedenstellend hinbekommen. Die Schwerkraft allein hat nicht ausgereicht, um die Folie über die Form zu ziehen – das „natürliche Durchhängen“ (sag) hat nicht funktioniert. Ich habe mir sogar eine eigene Vakuum-Platte gebastelt, um die erhitzte Folie nach unten zu ziehen und die Form komplett zu umschließen. Das hat zwar ein bisschen geholfen, aber die Ergebnisse waren nicht berauschend. Für richtiges Vakuum-Tiefziehen bräuchte ich wohl ein wesentlich besseres Heizelement und eine stärkere Vakuumpumpe.
Ich habe auch mit Schrumpfschläuchen experimentiert (die, die man für Kabelisolierungen nutzt). Das hat bis zu einem gewissen Punkt funktioniert, aber die Materialdicke war nach dem Schrumpfen ein Problem; die Folie wurde zu dick und wirkte irgendwann trüb. Dazu kam, dass die ungleichmäßige Dicke die optische Klarheit beeinträchtigte. Zu allem Überfluss ist die Haube oft noch etwas nachgeschrumpft, nachdem ich sie von der Form genommen hatte, sodass die Passform am Ende nicht mehr stimmte.
Letztendlich bin ich bei meiner 20 Jahre alten, bewährten Methode geblieben: Epoxid-Formen und PVC-Folie. Ich habe mir eine billige Heißluftpistole für ca. 30 $ bei Amazon gekauft. Es hat sich herausgestellt, dass man kein industrielles Profigerät braucht – 1800 W sind für 0,2 mm starke PVC-Folie völlig ausreichend. PVC ist zwar nicht das allerbeste Material, aber es ist günstig und in Briefbogengröße (Letter-Size) überall zu bekommen.
Hier noch ein paar Tipps aus meiner Erfahrung:
Ich hoffe, das hilft dir ein wenig weiter!
Display MoreHello Seo,
congratulations to another outstanding plane finished !
It is a prould moment when these flaps which demand so much work have been installed !
Did you do a Zero already?
Kind regards
Zaphod
Zaphod,
Thank you very much for your kind encouragement.
Yes I made one Zero around 2007. It was one of my Second Halinski model.
Hmmm... I was thinking P-38 Lighting could be my next but the Zero could be a good selection for a next model.
Thank you for your suggestion.
I remember Halinski has 4 Zero models. One with grey color and three with green color. I like a grey one but it is an old model published as Halinski 3/2005. Later Halinski upgrade the model kit with flaps, publishing it as Halinski 3/2015 but it had a green color. I thought I might build a grey one with flaps. The old model kit needs a few modification in the main wing frame and needs flap parts from the later new model kit.
After several small parts, SBC Dauntless is done.
It takes about a year and a half year to finish it.
After cleaning up my desk and schedules, I will upload more photos of the complete SBD Dauntless.
The rear machine gun
More photos after the flaps are installed.
.
The works for both side flaps
Finally, the work for the center flap
The rear seat assembly is installed.
Bombing gun sight
The minor works for the lid of the machine gun storage.
Excellent canopy, Seo.
Happy new year for you
Dieter
Display MoreHello Seo,
the canopy has turned out great !
KInd regards
Zaphod
Great as everything else.
How have you made the canopy?
Thank you so much for your kind encouragements. Dieter, Zaphod and Till.
Till, I used a well-known method.
Canopy molds were formed with parts in the paper kit and the paper canopies were filled with epoxy to harden them.
I used a heat gun to soften a sheet of a 0.2 mm thick PVC film (In US, I could easily get this PVC film. The PVC film is for a binding cover) and then I pushed the mold to wrap the mold with the film. I heard that you might expect better results with polystyrene. I could not get the PS film easily.
The rear porton of the canopy
The canopy is done
I hope I could finish the SBD this year but I leave a-week-long work to 2026.
I wish everyone in this forum enjoys building paper models in 2026 as well.
Happy New Year !!!
The front canopy is installed to the fuselage.
The work for thermal forming of the canopy.
The canopy frame for the front portion.
The rear wheel and the arresting hook
