Oh, wann wird die Super Constellation mal fliegen?
Posts by mixbou
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Die Super Constellation ist richtig wunderschön!
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Noch keinen Super Connie, leider. Wir mussen noch etwas länger warten.
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Ich kann schon die Wright Cyclonen hören....
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Das wird wunderbar.
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Nächste Jahr, ich kann kaum darauf warten. Kann ich schon reservieren??
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Phantastisch, ich kann kaum warten auf dieses Modell!
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Ja, dass waren die Fenster, die ich gesehen hab, aber ich verstehe jetzt, ich war zu schnell! Entschuldige.
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Kann ich vielleicht eine kleineBemerkung machen: die Cockpitfenster haben eine Mittelfenster, so dass da 7 Fenster gibt.
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Kann nicht warten! Eine grosse Connie, eine Traume. Und mit der KLM Bemahlung......
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Sehr schön! Der Motor siehst aus ob er richtig laufen kann!!
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Very impressive! The detailing of the engine is outstanding, and the tight fit of the fuselage is a textbook example of how to make a good paper model!
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Yes, it is a beautiful build, and an interesting cardmodel construction!
Regarding the slots in the outer wing panels, these are meant to delay stalling of the outer wing in keeping the ailerons effective, and act as fixed slats at a high angle of attack.
When landing on the decks of an aircraft carrier, one wants to get in as slowly as possible, which leads to the wing acting at a high angle of approach to maintain sufficient lift. If stallingl occurs at approachal, at least the ailerons will have additional airflow resulting effectively because of these slats, therefore maintaining them being effective resulting in the aircraft kept under lateral control. I also do assume, that in very tight turns and possibly on the cost of losing some airspeed, the inside turn wing would also be reaching to higher angles of attack, so also in this aspect these fixed slats could be saving the day.The wing panel attachment points are typical for Douglas: the DC-3 Dakota had the same construction (if you look at the 'spanwise' lines you'll notice this aircraft had also 3 spars, making this a very strong wing) and the outer wing panel was bolted with probably 24 bolts to the center panel on L-shaped brackets on the outside surface of the wing. A V-strip covers these bolts for streamlining. This way of constructioning also offers very easy and quick replacement of damaged outer wing panels.
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Ich habe seit jahren acryl Parketlack gebraucht, es ist farblos , last sich gut mit weich Pinsel anbringen und ist etwas elastich, siehe Foto für den Glanz. hersteller ist Rambo (Sikkenslakken)
Gruss -
What a beautiful realistic effect the strips of paper have on the hull representing steelplate reinforcements! The transparant paper as template is indeed a good sulution, I used it on the scratch-built KLM DC-6B, described I think on this forum some time ago.
I'll be following your thread with great interest.
Groet. -
Very impressive and beautifully designed!
Any idea, anyone, about the two little windows in the nose? Maybe they are just landinglights, but then a rectangel shape is unusual.
I noticed, that the exhaust follows the same "jetpipe" effect as was used in the Convair liners.
greetings! -
What a great design for a model of a 1950's airliner! I can't wait to download it and start building it.
I was wondering what the two little windows are in the very nose of the aircraft. Were they meant for a bomber vision, like all Russian airliners used to have in the Cold War era?
It is also interesting to see how the Iljushin engineers solved the aerodynamic problem of getting as little interference in the airstream between wing and fuselage by designing a large fairing at the leading edge of the wing, resulting in a more or less perpendicular mating of the wing at the underside of the fuselage. I am truly impressed.
Thanks! -
wenn man tss adriatiki googlet, wird man dieses bild bekommen:
http://www.photoship.co.uk/JAl…/slides/Adriatiki-01.html
HGr
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Sehr interessant! Wo finde ich Michael Urban's Homepage, bitte?
Vielen Dank! -
I would recommend in order to protect this fine model against dust, to spray it first with an inkjet fixative, in Canada you will probably have Krylon Clear. For large unsupported paper area's you must spray very light coats, and I would think 2 or three at the least, with a good drying time in between layers. This is to avoid the blobbing of the paper material. When dry, you can varnish the model with a clear acrylic varnish. Use matt on this stone building. As a result, you will have a model, that you can lightly wipe with a damp cloth to clean it.
Much succes! -
Ein schönes Modell! Est ist doch schade, das diese Grand Ladies of the Seas nicht mehr da sein. Gelüklich hat die Iniative das Schiff "Rotterdam zu retten gutes Erfolg gehabt. Jetzt liegt diese Lady in Rotterdam!
O tempora, o mores... -
Verzeihung, est ist nicht Zealot, aber Paper Modellers
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Ein wunderschone Modell, und es gibt genau die "Gesichtsausdruck" der DC-8 wieder.
Ich hoffe, das für Privatgebrauch da keine Probleme gibt mit Bezug der Copyrights usw.Mit die B 707 von Bob, und die DeHavilland Comet von Lex (auf der Forum Zealots) haben wir jetzt eine richtige Ubersicht der erste Jets aus der 50er Jahre.
Neben die Frage um KLM Farben habe ich noch eine Vorschlag. Wen es möglich ist, die Schlussnaht nicht am Rumpfunterseite zu stellen, sonst unter die Rahmen, dann kann ich eine Abdruck in SilverPapiere (Red River, aus die USA) machen, und dann die Rumpfunterseite an eine normal Abruck auf weisse Papier von Rumpfobersiete zu kleben, sehe das Beispiel von Cometmodell.
(Die foto komt später, weil meine pc ein bisschen gecrasht ist mBz My Documents X( )
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Hier einige "lebensechte" Fotos meiner DC-6B wie ein Fluggast die gesehen könnte haben in die Fünftziger Jahre. Mit Hilfe von paintshop Pro X2.
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another one
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Another one
fixed. please upload images as jpg. Old Rutz
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I have finished the DC-6B and will make some pictures under the thread "Fun with Models" which I think is in another forum. Meanwhile, to show what the overall effect is of such a large scale (1 : 50) model, and the specific technique of paper panels on balsa, as I showed in previous entries, here are some pictures. They are still raw, I need to adjust lighting and colour in some, bur it will give you an impression.
Don't hesitate to ask any questions
regards. -
What a beautiful model! Civil ships are really more interesting to look at, and the details of the Johan v. Oldenbarneveld are outstanding, especially the mahogany top of the railings!
Prachtig, prachtig!
MixbouScaldis, could you please print the window panes a shade darker, than the light blue you are now using? It would make a more realistic effect, I believe. If you look at photographs, the windows are really quite dark.
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Vielen Dank, René. Ich habe gerade gegoogled und auch eine Englische Lieferant gefunden, mit ungefähr ähnliche preise. Deutlich ist Decalpaper, entweder klar oder weis, teuer, zwischen 2 oder 3 Euro! Na ja, man lebt doch einmal.
Ich werde einige details geben wenn ich diese Decal machen soll. Ich habe bereits einige Foto's im Thread "Scratch build DC-6B" eingeschlossen. Hier ist eine Abbildung der Entwurf. Im Dc-6B threads werde ich herauslegen wie ich hierzu gekommen bin.
Grüsse,
Mixbou -
Hallo Kartonisten,
Für meine DC-6B in 1:50 soll ich spezielle selbstentwurfen Decal machen, die ich in Inktjet Printer will fertigen. Mein eigen Vorrat ist völlig benutzt, also ich brauche neue. Moduni hat nur 10 x 15 cm im Restvorrat, aber keine A-4 klar und weiss. Kann jemand mir ein Lieferer empfehlen?
Vielen Dank
Mixbou -
This is going to be a fabulous model!! I will look forward to download it, when available.
Can you tell us how to print with sufficient accuracy so that the backside print is exactly on the right place? What I mean is, when you cut out the window on the front sife of the print, how will it align correctly with the print on the backside?
Good luck,
Mixbou -
Hi everybody,
I thought I should show you some progress on the DC-6B. As you can see, the fuselage and wings are now fully pannelled and from some distance, it is beginning to look like an aircraft. I have varnished wings and fuselage with water-based parquet high gloss varnish, which is absolutely colourless and somewhat UV-resistant.Before attaching the horizontal tailplanes, I must first prepare the KLM colouring, for which I will use normal decals. I have both white and transparant decals, which can be printed on any inktjet printer, a Canon i4500 Pixma in my case, because of the more UV resistant inks it uses.
In Paint Shop Pro I have painted the blue cheat lines which go under (narrow one) and above (wide one) the cabin windows On the upper cheatline I have inserted the text "The Flying Dutchman" and "De Vliegende Hollander" in light blue, and further I made or scanned the various KLM logo's and registration marks etc. Then I printed this design on a A-4 normal white paper to check if the sizes are correct, by glueing them temporarly with photo (rubber) glue. The effect is already looking like a 1950's KLM airliner, although I am not quite sure of the correct hue for KLM-blue. I am now using blue with RGB-code 24-77-116. I probably will have to try a small piece on actual decal paper and see how it works on the model. If anybody has suggestions for a correct colour-code, I'll be gratefull.
Bye for now
Mixbou -
Hallo Olivia,
Die filigraine Scheiben sind doch richtige Kunstwerke! Wie hast Du dass gemacht? Mit eine feine Laubsage? Und wie macht mann dass, begint man von ausser und dann nach die innere Cirkels? Ich bin erstaunt!
HGr
Mixbou -
The air intakes above and below the nacelle were not much to my liking in the card model, so I modified them, see pictures.
I added two lips under the air opening in the front by extending two lips which I curved and closed. Further, two narrow v-shaped slits were cut half way the intake, so that they would become slightly more curved. The engine now looks better.
Next I will show you, how the aircraft looks like up to now.
Mixbou -
So, let's see how the engines will look like. As I said, I will build them from a copy of a 1956 card model of the KLM Douglas DC-6B, published by EMSCO in The Netherlands. The original scale is 1 : 66 2/3, which I scaled up to 1:50 (130% size increase).
In the first picture, I noticed the underside of the inside nacelle did not show the bulge covering the main wheels when retracted. So, I slightly extended the shape and made two V-shaped slits. When closing the nacelle, I burnished this part, closed the slits with a little strip of card and got a nice bulging underside. The fit of the other sections of the engine, the middle part and the engine cowling with the curved front inlet is perfect. Again, the cowling and the front opening were burnished to take away the angular shape it would otherwise have.Being a copy, the silver colour was reproduced as grey, and the blue colour of the cowling decoration had yellowed with age. Therefore, this needs to be painted in the final stage.
The propeller needs some more volume in the blade and the hub, so I filled it with heavy card, and cut away a sharp edge to form the trailing edge. To simulate the propeller blade pitch housing, I rolled thin strips around the blade foot. Later I will cover the leading edge with black tissue paper to simulate the rubber de-icing boot. It is not yet visible in the pic's, this will come later.
The last part will be an overview of the aircraft with wing and engine, to check if the overall impression is good enough.
Bye for now
Mixbou -
Sorry, I inserted the wrong pictures, without explanatory text. Here are the correct ones.
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Hello everybody,
I have some more pictures of the progress made sofar.
First, I started panelling the right wing. To begin, I made a paper strip to carry the panels over both the roots of the outer wing and center wing, which forms an integral part of the fuselage, see pictures. When dry, I slit a razor knife between the two root wing ribs, so that I had on both the outer wing and the center wing a paper strip lying in the same plane. That means that a panel on the center wing will match exactly a panel on the outer wing, so that the two parts are still detacheable. I hope I am expressing myself clearly, if not just ask me.Next step is starting panelling the leading edge. This I made from long sections stretching for almost half the wing span, and then cutting this in three parts, so that I will have nice panel lines, while the whole remains in one continuing and straight line.
The rest of the wing is panelled in the same way as the fuselage.
Next comes a test build of an engine, to see how it will fit. I will put this in the forum later this afternoon.
Greetings,
Mixbou -
Ja, dass ist sehr schön! Ich habe das auch versucht mit meine Dgitalcamera auf Naheaufname gestelld. Es gibt eine Tulpezeichen auf meine Canon Powershot, womit man auf ca 10 oder 15 cm Entfernung fotografieren kann. Damit hab ich erst eine aufname gemacht von der Flugel wann es noch nicht am Rumpf geklebt ist. Ich habe dieser auf eine tisch gesetzt im Garten und eine Aufname gemacht als wäre man in die Cabine (lange Aufnamezeit und also kleine diaphragma fur grosse Scharftiefe), und dan in PaintShopPro selektiert und auf eine Aufname von die wirkliche Welt (Aalsmeer, in der Nahe von Schiphol, Amsterdam) "geklebt". Dann habe ich eine Photo gemacht van ein anderes Model der Super Constellation (das Modell mit Panele auf Balsaholz, siehe meine andere Threma). Mit was hin und her schieben so dass die Perspektive stimmt schlieslich die defitieve Photo zusammengesteld. Siehe die Printscreens, die hier beigefugt sind.
Grusse,
Mixbou -
It is now time to prepare the first window panel for assembly onto the fuselage.
First however, I want to detail the inside of the panel. Airliners of the fifties had little fabric curtains in homely colours fitting the windows. Those were the days, which I remember as a 10 year old, flying in one of KLM's DC 6B's to South America, and these real curtains were much finer than the horrible plastic sliding panels airliners now have...
For this, I used the tissue paper in which they wrap up china plates and cups in the department store. I have painted it with acrylic paint in beige, cut out small strips which are squeezed into a diabolo shape and glued to the inside of the window panel, at the window sides.Further, I modelled more or less a passenger head out of a small scrap of balsa, with some plastic putty, to make a rounded shape. A tiny triangular piece of paper is attached as a nose, and then I painted it with flesh colour, and brown hair, including an indication of eyes and mouth.
Since the fuselage will be dark inside after finishing the fuselage, there is no need for too much detail, you will barely see the little head. It gives a lively effect if you see a hint of passenger faces behind the windows.I fixed the figure to a bulkhead inside the fuselage and finally glued the window panel onto the fuselage.
See the pictures, which also includes an general overview with the framework of the wings and horizontal tailplane. Just to get a feeling of how the KLM livery will look like when I make the decals at the final stage, I drew the KLM stripes in a photo painting programme, so that picture is a fake of course.
Till the next time.
Mixbou -
I have covered the framework of the fuselage with paperstrips in such a way, that the surface is smooth and in one plane, and so that the panels can be attached with ease onto the fuselage frame, see the various puictures.
Now it is time to start building the panels with the windows of the DC-6B. I started with a copy from the side view with a selection of the windows. I printed these windows in the correct size (1:50) to the backside of silver cardboard. (I am going to use silver cardboard on the right side and white glossy cardboard on the left side of the fuselage. That is because KLM had two colour schemes in the 1950's: white roof and aluminium at windows and vertical tailplane, but later, from around 1954 colour liveries had white painted area's at the windows and the vertical tailplane. I want to show both colour schemes on the model)
With a punch that I bought at internet, and which has rotating punches as you push the top, giving very neat holes at various diameters, I punched out the 4 corners of each windaw outline. Then the straight line connecting the corners were cut, and an open window results. From the plastic address window of a heavy duty envelope, I then cut the outlines of the windows in the exact shape as the outline in the aluminium cardboard, and with some plastic glue the treansparant pane was secured in the outline cut out in the aluminium cardboard, from the back. In that way I made the whole length of the window panel.
Next step is marking the correct position of the windows on the fuselage. The side view in the middle bulkhead gives a clue for this, I stuck a pin at the bottom line of the windows postion and one at the end of the fuselage and stretched a thin thread between the pins, see pictures. The DC-6B window line at the underside of the windows runs at a level of around 0,9 of the window hight beneath the side cockpit window back to the leading edge of the horizontal tailplane. Thie postion of the thread was marked on all bulkheads and longerons where posibble to give a guidance for the postion of the later window panels. I hope the pictures make this proces clear.
Checking the fit of the panels over the length of the fuselage will be the subject of the next thread.
So long and enjoy your weekend.
Mixbou