Posts by Yu Gyokubun

Thank you for introducing Tatebanko with detailed explanation.

I, being Japanese, even didn't know about the story of Hachinoki noh play , which is very interesting. It reminds me of the Kamakura warriors throughout Japan rushed to the battlefield shouting "Iza Kamakura" during the Mongol invasion.

Behind the mobilization there must be the result of accumulating efforts for ruling by the Kamakura Shogunate like a story described in Hachinoki noh play.

Best regards,

Yu

Hello Jan,

Thank you for the info about Thunder Mesa Studio.

It's an interesting site. I want to build a layout like that someday.

After posting the previous thread I made several rolling stocks using squared timbers.

Many of the rolling stocks are freelance scratch built.

Long ago I built many paper models and posted them at this gallery and construction reports. Since then, stopped building not only paper models but other models.

About three years ago I started building narrow gauge layout to find especially how to make rocks, trees and water. My test build of small layout completed about half a year ago. Size is only 130 cm long and 65 cm wide. Almost all rolling stocks are scratch build freelance made of plastic sheet and wood. Only one steam locomotive is brass kit assembled about 20 years ago.

Now that I have retired lately, I will build both model railroad layout and paper models again.

In this layout I put mirrors at the back of the river and near the turn out to make my layout look larger than it is.

Also trees in the back are smaller than in the front for perspective.

Glue me, as well as your exceptional skill what impresses me is your tenacity that gives me courage to try further.
Don't be engrossed in Lego. Don't forget that there are many paper modelers who look forward to your update.

Last night I dreamt I went to Germany again. It seemed to me I stood by an insane modeler and he started building small model. Seeing his job, I was spellbound. Curiously, my dream came true. Gluuuuuuue meeeeeeeee!

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@ Yu - well, I bet we share the same taste for the way to build paper models. We are not alone (John, are you there? ) The short answer to your question is no. However, I almost always pass the nail over the edges. It softens the edges and helps to hide some fuzz that may occur while cutting. Is that what you mean?

Thank you for the tip of hiding fuzz with nail. Why asked about chamfering the cut edge is that paper edge on sand dome looks very thin. If we could chamfer both sides of the edges of paper that is to be glued right angle, cut edge wouldn't show up. Theoretically, so but in practice it is almost impossible.....

This is really interesting and fun to see. John, did you change your taste for paper modeling?
If there is a pretty blond girl standing on the jetty and winking cutely at the captain... I want to build such a paper model someday.....
Thank you for your inspiration

Cheers,
Yu

frettchen, I built this kit about 4 years ago but I didn't built the pedal in such a precise way. I should have built it after learning your thread

HI Dalibor,

Very careful work on small parts in the cockpit, outer skin, everything is fine!!!

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Originally posted by YY DAD
Is there any step to follow after I finish building a model? Like informing somebody or ......

Thank you.

YY DAD

Congratulations on your great work!!!

At the first page, just edit the title adding [fertig] which means "finished" then administrator will move your report to "abgeschlossene Bauberichte".

Congratulations, Ricardo.
This is the way to build papermodel that I pursue.
By the way, did you chamfer the edges of back side skin of the sand dome?

Ricardo,
I want you to make some flaw on your build otherwise I have no other words but to repeat 'perfect' always....

Yu

Servus frettchen,

Congratulations on your Jak-1b that looks very good!!!

Yu

Glen-san,

It's nice to be able to follow your thread again here so that I can memorize your tips and techniques by heart. One time isn't enough for me to lean...

Yu

Before gluing hull plate I glued right and left side bow tips together then glued entire hull to the formers.

First glued horizontal plate to the bottom edge of upper hull plate then glued the other side to the top edge of lower hull plate. In the middle I found length of horizontal plates are short. I might have overlooked corresponding parts but I decided to make it from original deck that I didnt use and kept it for in case. Cut out grey part to make parts for connecting two horizontal plates.

first picture : cut out portholes
second picture : smoothen the portholes edge using brass rod
third picture: slice projected paper by smoothing
fourth picture: glued rims for porthole
last picture: glued thin film back of hull plates

I used gold painted electric wire for bow section and brass wire for stern section.
As diameter of electric wire looks a bit smaller than brass wire, for 1:300 ship model size of electric wire looks ideal but painting it is nightmare One more drawback of brass wire is its elasticity. Although wrapping electric wire and brass wire around same diameter brass rod, because of elasticity diameter of rim made of brass wire get bigger. Advantage of brass wire is, of course, we dont need to paint it.

After I had glued rims to the bow section I knew metallic brush has brass wire. At nearby hardware store I bought one metallic brush and found brass wire looks almost same diameter as electric wire. I made rims for stern section using brass wire

Thanks hagen-san, Mainpirat-san for your kind words.
frettchen, I like longitudinal hull plate as real ship has so I tried it and result. May be I can find better way next time.

Taking time I built upper hull plates.
In the first place, I made rims for the porthole. What I came up as material was electric wire. Its diameter is 0.1mm and I though it is an ideal size but drawback is I have to paint it dipping them in the pool of gold paint. I glued them to the both sides of bow section.

Great work, John, I learned through your thread that size doesnt matter. The most important thing is love and passion. Your passion for building turned paper into gem

Yu

Helmut-san,

The idea of building brases is very instructive and your way of building the model with great care is my preference.

Cheers,
Yu

[quote
Dear Yu san,

It's a great honor to get your feedback. I was so impressed by your works of Bf-109F and Spitfire on Halinski web-site a couple of years ago. Since then, yours work became a golden standard to me. Whenever I have problems, I study remarkable finishes on your models and imagine over and over again how you did. That's one of the reason I started Halinski WWII air fighter building. Now you may guess why I am using blue background for photos. I've tried my best but still I could not reach quality yet. I wish I could achieve a bit more before I finish last 20 fighters.

I hope you will give me sharpest feedback. I really appreciate your inspiration.

Sincerely,

YY DAD[/quote]

Dear YYDAD-san,

Its also great honor for me to receive an almost undue amount of
complements from you one of talented modelers.

You are too humble. With only a couple of build your works have already reached to excellent level. After finishing 20 fighters your works will surely reach to a diamond standard. Even now your works stimulate me to make greater efforts.

Its really nice to meet you here.

Kindest regards,

Yu

John,

If you didn't put your glasses beside the model and I didn't read the thread from the beginning, I would think the Linderhof a large size model. It is really inspirational!!! I'm getting the urge to build small building to impress my wife

Cheers,
Yu

Servus Olli-san,

Small world is one of my favorite genres.
I guess especially spinner build at this scall must have been difficult but you have done it very nicely. It makes my finger itchy for small size airplane.

Gruss
Yu

Hi YYDAD,

How nice spinner, cowling and small skins between fuselage and vertical tail. It's my favorite way of building airplane!!!

Yu

John,

Even at small size your build is as nice as in building bigger one. Why didn't I think of small size that will remove the cause of worrying about keep space!

Have base of deck done.
Next update will be side walls

To match the color of edge parts with hull plate, cut out the parts from original kit. Also I cut out tracks from original kit and glued it on the downloaded deck.

Lately business trip, gardening and honey-do list deprives me of time for more important matter. During two-week long business trip I was very concerned about mismatched deck plate so after coming back home I scrambled to check the deck and corresponding basement thoroughly and found only mismatched section is bow. Since this deck consists of three sections, I reprinted only bow section and cut it about 2mm longer than previous one then replaced it as is shown in the first picture. After cut out turret base I found next mismatch in the second picture so cut off yellow hatched part of formers in the third picture.

Thanks Helmut, hearing your compliment on hull plating is rewarding.

I forgot to mention in previous post that this kit consists of 14 pages of parts and 6 pages of formers. The paper size is almost same as A4 size. As you will see in the attached photos fineness of parts is remarkable considering this kit is 1:300 scale. I was a little bit concerned about paper quality whether I can roll it and fold it but it looks pliable for detail work.

@OHI-san and Olli-san,
Thank you for your kind words
This kit looks very nice so I want Maly Modelarz to publish more of ship kits at this scale. For me 1:300 seems to be ideal size because it doesn't take up keep space but has enough detail

frettchen,
Thanks. I added edition number to the title

John,
Thank you for your nice words. Lately I cannot take much time off to build paper models. I will concentrate on this model for the time being but when I have time I want to build a building model using techniques I learned in your threads.

Hi Helmut,

Window frame build looks not easy but you have done it excellently

Hi Michael,

Is your avatar your pretty son's?
I guess you have already lost your job as professional milk warmer and you can devote your time to model building.
Your beautiful ship inspires me to build a passenger ship that romantic image could impress my wife who always complains my paper model build

Greetings,
Yu

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Original von Jörg Schulze
Hi Yu-san,

good to hear and read from you again. Please, could you post the edition number from this MM kit ? It looks pretty new and well designed. Some more pictures from the kit itself would be nice, too.

regards,
Jörg

Hi Jörg-san,

Since I am on the road this week, I will post the edition number of this kit and some more pictures from the kit itself one week later. In my opinion, this kit looks very nice as you said.

regards,
Yu

Having seen finished hull, tone difference between paper and copy paper bugged me so much that I decided to remove them all by sanding them down and replaced with 4.5mm-wide regular copy paper and just glued them side by side.
After having under water hull plating done, I installed deck plate that is also downloaded from konradus.net. As is shown in the second picture with arrow mark length of the deck didnt fit with the basement so I have to modify it after come back home this weekend

Next step was reinforcement plating on the side. First glued parts supplied in the kit onto paper and added red colored pre-printed 7mm-wide paper strips onto it.

Replaced lower deck with downloaded one from this site: http://konradus.net/download/kemot/hiei_pdf.zip) Downloaded deck color is superb but since the color of edges do not match with side hull plating supplied in the kit, cut out edges from kits parts and glued it onto the downloaded deck

After glued formers, I cut 7mm-wide non-printed paper strips and glued them on formers then glued printed same width paper on it and finally glued 3.5mm wide regular copy paper over the seams of 7mm wide paper so that we can hide seams between 7mm wide paper strips.

When I built 1/430 Fuso I tried to have underwater hull plating that runs longitudinal direction. At that time I glued 4mm-wide regular copy paper over the hull skin that is supplied in the kit but it caused rather lumpy surface as is shown in the first picture. So, in building this ship I decided to add longitudinal formers in between formers supplied in the kit as experimentation. Assuming plate width as 3.5mm at 1/300 scale I glued 2mm thick cardboard every 7mm interval so that 7mm wide paper can be glued on formers smoothly less causing divots and dents.
Japanese ships plate during the WWII was installed by means of riveting as shown in many pictures in these sites: http://blog.livedoor.jp/irootoko_jr/?p=14 http://blog.livedoor.jp/irootoko_jr/?p=21

I havent posted here for several months but I didnt forget about paper modeling. I am building this Japanese battle ship Hiei. You can find explanation here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_battleship_Hiei The ships name Hiei was taken after Mount Hiei on which sacred old temple built about 1,200 years ago is still resting.
The kit is designed 1/300 scale but it has as enough details as 1/200 scale.