Posts by lisiming

  • original 1/32 BF109F-2

    Quote from Walter Schweiger

    Straight strips will never fit into curved parts. They should look like part 2a. Everything else is useless. And cut the stright strip into pieces to fit is.... even as a beginner i haven't done such a crazy thing

    Give it a try and you might change your mind. In fact, I've been doing this since several models ago. It doesn't need to fit perfectly—as long as it does its job, that's enough.

  • original 1/32 BF109F-2

    Quote from Jan Hascher
    Quote from lisiming

    Instead of designing separate standard bridging strips for each skin panel, this kit provides a single pre-cut straight bridging strip

    Hmm, I don’t think this is a good idea for such a detailed model like yours. The strips are quite important for the fit and should a) conform to the shape and b) their thickness needs to be included in the design. Just my 2ct.

    Based on my experience, even adhesive edges designed to follow curves still need to be cut into segments to ensure proper bonding. Of course, curved adhesive edges always perform better—this simplified design is adopted for universality and to save on layout costs.

  • original 1/32 BF109F-2

    Quote from Chris A.

    A very well designed model. I particularly like toe idea of the seperate Glueing strips.
    Only thing I would do is color them to avoid white flashes.
    Different colors obviously to match the camouflage pattern.
    Can the model be bought somewhere?

    I'm not very familiar with how to sell products abroad, but if you need it, these issues can all be overcome. Without counting any taxes or fees, the price for this would be $19.

  • original 1/32 BF109F-2

    Hello my friends. It’s with great excitement that I’d like to introduce this to you — a revolutionary paper model kit.
    First of all, as you can see, this is a fully laser-cut set. Every frame structure and skin panel is pre-cut by laser; all you need to do is pop out the parts and glue them together. This cuts down more than half of your building time. In fact, the designer built a complete model from the kit in just one afternoon at the show, and put it on display at the booth right after finishing.
    Second, the skin segmentation has been redesigned with unmatched realism. Every builder has run into the same frustration: why do designers place seams in such illogical spots? This kit completely changes that situation. All panel seams sit exactly where they belong — matching the real aluminum panel joints on the full-size aircraft.
    Furthermore, the kit comes complete with accurate rivet lines and engraved panel lines, with clear differentiation between rivets and access panel fasteners. For the paint scheme, it features realistic weathering, with only subtle artistic exaggeration applied to engine oil stains.
    The assembly instructions follow a layout similar to KA models, though far less complicated thanks to the lower part count. Overall, this kit is categorized as a beginner-friendly build in terms of difficulty.

  • 1/16 spitfire XVIe

    This is a paper model… no doubt about it. Yes, I’ve started a brand-new project again. There’s no way to resist it—you can’t hold back inspiration when it comes. In terms of pushing the boundaries of paper modeling, this project combines the design concepts of the MiG-21 and F-84 builds.

  • original 1/33 F-84B-26

    Quote from Chris A.

    Awesome. Just stumbled over that construction. A brilliant job so far. If you ever consider selling this, count me in please.

    I’m still not sure whether to manufacture them myself for sale, or sell the designs directly to ANSWER.If I manufacture them myself, I can offer a fully laser-engraved version.

  • MSmodel No.003 MIG-21MF

    The canopy frame and the fuselage are connected in a bridge-like manner.

    It can be clearly seen in the photo that the connecting part between the front windshield and the fuselage should be integrated. This is an issue that should have been considered during the design phase.

    remodeled the tail section.One is convergent, the other is divergent.

  • MSmodel No.003 MIG-21MF

    I reverse-modeled the fuselage based on the internal framework.

    I then manufactured this using an FDM printer, which I call the "printed inner shell." Compared to gluing cardboard, this saved approximately 7 days of work. It's also more robust, provides stronger support for the skin, and is less prone to bamboo jointing issues. Setting aside traditional preconceptions, FDM printing technology complements paper modeling to a remarkable degree—it's truly a match made in heaven.

    Instead of fabricating inner lining pads for the intake, I directly applied metallic paint to the backside. Cutting away the black lines caused the skin to fit somewhat poorly. Overall, the longitudinal length has been shortened, and the first few sections became too short transversely. But in short, the more coherent skin effect is worth it. Although I employed very aggressive techniques, the actual construction process was no different from traditional framing. The skin is still glued together first before being fitted over the frame, rather than being directly attached to the printed surfaces.

    The rivets were rearranged according to the reference photos. Laser-engraved rivets with a diameter of 0.3mm and slotted screws with a diameter of 0.5mm.

    The exterior was dry-brushed with Tamiya Aluminum, followed by painting scorch marks.

    The interior was painted with gunmetal.

  • F-16 "Dirty Diana", Maly Modelarz, 1:33

    A strong internal framework is indispensable for installing the skin.

  • original 1/33 F-84B-26

    I did a test build of the wing's internal structure. I found the horizontal-section bulkheads rather troublesome to glue and prone to significant error, so I removed them and added two new spars instead. Since these spars are not parallel to each other, the elastic modulus of the framework in the horizontal direction hasn't decreased too much.

  • ANGRAF nr.1/2015 MIG-23MF

    It wasn't until yesterday that I finally had time to take completion photos of the model. This isn't my first time building this kit, but my opinion of it is completely opposite to what it was a few years ago—as my skills have improved, I've become increasingly picky. Especially once you've mastered modeling skills, many design flaws that could have been easily avoided or improved become increasingly unbearable. Perhaps I shouldn't be so harsh; for the designer, this is just a job, and there's no need for perfection. I miss the KA series.

  • original 1/33 F-84B-26

    Seams are divided according to the actual object's joints, and double-curved surfaces are an unavoidable challenge. In traditional design and production processes, paper is generally not considered stretchable, but in fact, this is feasible. At a paper model gathering about a week ago, DAFU, a master paper modeler from Chongqing, demonstrated parts cleverly manufactured using this method, so I immediately gave it a try.

    For small double-curved surfaces, such as spinner cowlings and missile seeker heads, they can be easily produced using just a ball tool and a dapping block. However, the fuselage is such a large double-curved surface that it's difficult to find male and female molds of matching size. But using ceramic bowls and spoons, I managed it. Not a perfect fit, but it worked.

    It can be noted that I directly attached the front windshield frame to the inner skin, aiming to eliminate the height difference.

    To accommodate this skin, the fuselage bulkheads are arranged more densely as well. I spent about three days adjusting the bulkheads, then setting up the alignment pins. I really hate eyeballing positions—if there's room for alignment pins, I won't rely solely on positioning lines.

  • original 1/33 F-84B-26

    Designers have always been accustomed to the conventional bamboo-joint style design. Why hasn’t there been a model that places all the seams where they truly exist? So I decided to give it a try.

    I chose this bird because it has a simple structure and not too many protrusions, making it very suitable for some bold experiments. After completing all the work, I might consider selling it—if there are enough people interested.

    This bird is so rare that I could hardly find any complete information. I can't guarantee that the details are accurate. I would be very grateful if anyone is willing to share some photos of the inside of the landing gear bay.

  • ANGRAF nr.1/2015 MIG-23MF

    The designer failed to account for the interference between parts 9 and 10 and the internal structure, requiring appropriate removal of some material.

    Following the reference photos, I installed the joystick in front of the seat instead of the raised section indicated on the drawing.

    A piece of metal mesh was installed in the opening on the left rear side according to the reference photos.

  • ANGRAF nr.1/2015 MIG-23MF

    After measuring the length of the parts, I modeled the radome and fabricated it using an FDM 3D printer. Additionally, I used MASTER’s metal pitot tube and static dischargers.

    The test fit went smoothly with virtually no discrepancies.

    The printing technology used by ANS for this model results in colors that peel off relatively easily.

    I covered these flaws with oil paints.

    I used 3M spray adhesive to attach the middle plastic interlayer.

    The back was given an embossing treatment

    The designer did not specify in the instructions that the raised parts on both sides and the bottom need to be bent.

    There is a slight difference between the color number of the paint I have and the color of the model, but it doesn’t matter—just use oil paints to add a bit of filter effect, and they can be adjusted to match.

  • ANGRAF nr.1/2015 MIG-23MF

    Before starting, I vectorized all the internal components and bridge strips and then laser-cut them.

    All the details are three-dimensional.Some parts were modified based on reference to the physical photos.

    The effect without paint.If you plan to paint, it's best to reinforce all the joints with 502 (CA) glue.

    After hand-painting the pedals with Tamiya aluminum color, the texture is pressed onto a metal mesh filter.

    The joystick uses 3D-printed parts, which are very delicate.

    There is a seal strip around the cockpit cover, which I separated into individual pieces here.

    After adding some pipelines, I hand-painted 1000-grit gray primer, followed by panel lining with oil paints.

    A touch of additional detail was added to the landing gear locking mechanism.