Posts by lisiming

Designers have always been accustomed to the conventional bamboo-joint style design. Why hasn’t there been a model that places all the seams where they truly exist? So I decided to give it a try.

I chose this bird because it has a simple structure and not too many protrusions, making it very suitable for some bold experiments. After completing all the work, I might consider selling it—if there are enough people interested.

This bird is so rare that I could hardly find any complete information. I can't guarantee that the details are accurate. I would be very grateful if anyone is willing to share some photos of the inside of the landing gear bay.

It wasn't a great experience, and I wouldn't buy any products that use the same printing technology.

The designer failed to account for the interference between parts 9 and 10 and the internal structure, requiring appropriate removal of some material.

Following the reference photos, I installed the joystick in front of the seat instead of the raised section indicated on the drawing.

A piece of metal mesh was installed in the opening on the left rear side according to the reference photos.

After measuring the length of the parts, I modeled the radome and fabricated it using an FDM 3D printer. Additionally, I used MASTER’s metal pitot tube and static dischargers.

The test fit went smoothly with virtually no discrepancies.

The printing technology used by ANS for this model results in colors that peel off relatively easily.

I covered these flaws with oil paints.

I used 3M spray adhesive to attach the middle plastic interlayer.

The back was given an embossing treatment

The designer did not specify in the instructions that the raised parts on both sides and the bottom need to be bent.

There is a slight difference between the color number of the paint I have and the color of the model, but it doesn’t matter—just use oil paints to add a bit of filter effect, and they can be adjusted to match.

Before starting, I vectorized all the internal components and bridge strips and then laser-cut them.

All the details are three-dimensional.Some parts were modified based on reference to the physical photos.

The effect without paint.If you plan to paint, it's best to reinforce all the joints with 502 (CA) glue.

After hand-painting the pedals with Tamiya aluminum color, the texture is pressed onto a metal mesh filter.

The joystick uses 3D-printed parts, which are very delicate.

There is a seal strip around the cockpit cover, which I separated into individual pieces here.

After adding some pipelines, I hand-painted 1000-grit gray primer, followed by panel lining with oil paints.

A touch of additional detail was added to the landing gear locking mechanism.

I will sort out more details later.

After checking the errors, I spent a day creating the instruction.

However, this will still save a lot of time. It only took about 1 day to assemble the main components.Use several 0.5mm steel pipes to connect the bones.

This is an attempt to use FDM printing instead of traditional ribs.

So I decided to carry out this project at a 72 scale. I won't spend too much time on the details and verifying whether they match the real thing.

I don't use borders; they make the seams stand out.

I tried to draw some aging effects. However, after printing them out, I realized their size was too small, and they didn't have the desired effect.Nose, the size of the filler is just right.

In terms of sticking, there is not much difference from traditional methods. It is still need to bridging and then putting it on.

All the little things were installed, and only the pipelines for the landing gear remained!

To accommodate this chair, I did not install the rear guide rail.

the cannopy has been closed

This time I first glued the joist to the fuselage, and then I glued the skin of the spine .

I modeled the hatch based on the three-view drawing, and then I got this.

Quote from Udo

Hallo,

Bitte jetzt nicht falsch interpretieren. Da ich die englische Sprache nicht gut behersche, würde ich mir wünschen, dass die Beiträge doch in Deutsch erscheinen. Ich stelle bloß fest, dass es jetzt immer mehr Beiträge in Englisch hier gibt.

Ja, ich kann mit die Beiträge ins deutsche übersetzen lassen, aber der Aufwand stört mich einfach.

So und jetzt könnt ihr mich steinigen, da ich in Deutschland nicht fließend englisch spreche.

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I'm not an English speaker, I work with a translator. Translating into English rather than German just to make sure that the meaning of what I am saying is not unduly biased.

Ich spreche kein Englisch, ich arbeite mit einem Übersetzer zusammen. Ich übersetze ins Englische statt ins Deutsche, nur um sicherzustellen, dass die Bedeutung dessen, was ich sage, nicht übermäßig voreingenommen ist.

Quote from Chris A.

Whats that for a building stand?

Nice modeling so far!

It just called 'plane stand'.I bought it because it was really cheap, but I don't think it played a big role in building the model

Many places show that the publisher did not use the thickness recommended by the author. The inner parts are always too short.

starting to refine the landing gear.

The best practice is to glue all the parts on the outer side of the wing before installing the spar, and don't forget to paint the inside of the main wing black. I have fixed the flaps at a 45-degree angle, so the wing will not be able to fold.

I fabricated these rounded corners using capillary steel tubes.

I copied a part of the MiG-29 and used the color etched pieces from Eduard.

I added L-shaped supports on the sidewalls

顶部的皮肤宽度有点短，这里产生了大约 0.5mm 的间隙

Quote from Gummikuh

Zur Sprühkleberfrage...:
Ich mache das auch mitunter, mit diesem doppelseitigen Klebeband komme ich nicht zurande.
Cockpitteile auf mit der Druckseite nach unten eine Unterlage legen. Sprühkleber draufsprühen, fertig.
Ist eigentlich eine ziemliche Schweinerei und man sollte das vorher üben. Vor allem unterschiedliche Sprühkleber ausprobieren. Aus den Dosen von Tesa und 3M kommt der Mist eher in Flocken raus. Kann man zum Spanten aufdoppeln gut verwenden, aber nicht für filigrane Cockpit-Verstrebungen.
Recht gut ist der Sprühkleber von UHU, das ist wirklich ein Sprühnebel.
Nächstes Problem kann sein, dass sehr kleine Teile vom Treibgas weggeweht werden. Dann kraucht man auf dem Boden rum und sucht halb eingesprühte Teile. (Die sich natürlich schon mit Staub und Katzenhaaren verbrüdert haben :-))
Dann muß man die Teile entweder vorab mit Stecknadeln fixieren, oder mit Fixogum.

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The spray glue I use is not very sticky, especially when the amount is small.So sometimes I will deliberately spray it on the mat before placing small parts.

Quote from René Pinos

lisiming I have no concerns but measured the thickness especially for you. The thickness is 0.1 mm only.

Give us some detailes how you proceed with the spray glue.

I just cut out the pieces, colored them, and then sprayed glue on the back.Then it can be fixed to the glass. It requires a bit of adjustment。sometimes it may leave glue marks, but they can be removed with the thinner.

Sometimes the thickness of the double-sided tape can cause additional errors, I am used to gluing the hatch cover with spray glue

I tried sticking tin foil in the place of stainless steelwithspraying glue

Quote from Wanni

Oh-Ooooohhhhhh….

Bad Colours – Sad Colours…!

I am very interested in your report, becaus I bought the new Su-7B from MSModel.

The quality error appeared also in the report of walkira`s PZL W-3A:

Thread

MSModel - PZL W-3A Sokół in 1:33 scale

Hi

This time I will present You process of building new ANSWER model from MSModel series: PZL W 3 Sokół in 1:33 scale. In build I use laser cut frame and reinforcements elements.

The frame of this model is quite similar to that of the W3/Anakonda model from GPM

For beginning - main hul frame


kartonbau.de/attachment/828486/ kartonbau.de/attachment/828487/ kartonbau.de/attachment/828488/ kartonbau.de/attachment/828489/




Then I glue to frame flor and wall parts

kartonbau.de/attachment/828493/ …

walkiria

Jun 3rd 2023

It is very annoying ….

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They should at least try it out before printing the model, and the cost of this kind of problem shouldn't be borne by the customer, especially when I choose to support the genuine copy with the hefty additional postage and taxes

Quote from René Pinos

感谢您的提议 Chris，

但我很高兴这个套件不是那么像怪物一样。老实说，你甚至可以没有你无论如何都看不到的踏板。我将以更详细的版本再次制作面板，用玻璃背衬，也许有人在看它。从 MS 购买的树脂轮子一团糟，这就是为什么上面有 ResKit 的 1/32 轮子。

MS Verlag 的自行车：

[attach='906893'，'无'，'true'][/附件][attach='906894'，'无'，'true'][/附件]

LG 勒内

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Yes, it looks like they only intend to use it as a replacement for polished wheels, and not to play the performance of 3D printing。So I made my own 33 scale wheels, with a 3D printer

Fill errors, fill errors, and expand errors

Where is the quality supervision of Answer? Or maybe we're talking about something that doesn't exist

I'm going to start both projects at the same time, in one thread

Quote from Zaphod

您好 LIsimeng，

一个出色的结果！我特别钦佩你处理的所有困难部分都非常顺利地连接起来。它看起来非常逼真。

感谢您与我们分享您的建造过程照片！

亲切问候

扎弗德

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Thank you for your comment, it's been a pleasure interacting in this forum

Finished. Just in time to have a red and blue gradient background, like the cover.

Some close-ups

the gaps

It's going to be a while before the 3D printed tires and I can't wait to take some photos first

A project that was being carried out at the same time as me-262。 one point I wanted to give up, but I finally decided to complete this model.

After completion, they will be firmly glued. Because I didn't accurately calculate the position of the axis, and I didn't think of a suitable plan to lock the landing gear and cover in the closed state.

Quote from Zaphod

Hello Lisi,

so far everything looks great !

Will the landing gear be retractable?

Kind regards

Zaphod

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The connection of various parts can be called hell. But in the end, I combined them together. This is definitely the second most uncomfortable model I've ever done.