Posts by Joon Kwon

    Made the “tunnel” between the loco and the tender.

    Please kindly let me know what the proper name of it.

    Start with paper rings and a napkin paper strip.

    Carefully attach the napkin to inner side of the paper ring. Need to be very careful as it’s very thin.

    Attach small magnet to have the ‘tunnel’ detachable.

    Installed the magnet at the matching location at Tender side and did fit check.

    Install and get its shape and thickness when it is in place (compressed)

    Using CA glue, gradually drop by drop, get the shape and the size fixed.

    Well dried and ready for painting

    Few steps more.

    Carefully attached magnets in place for both loco and tender.

    Following picture shows the maximum side angle/tilt that magnet force can hold the tender.

    It seems the magnet gaps are well dialed in.

    (strong enough to hold the model, but weak enough to remove the model from the base)

    Moving on.

    Started to attach ballast grains. The wood glue solution is prepared based on Jan and Johannes. (wood glue + water + a bit of dish soap)

    Coming back to Paper modeling from woodworking

    Attached the rail on the base

    Put rail clip one by one

    Attach on the base using the jig that keeps the tail in place

    Add the connector between rails

    Assembly Completed

    Took some pictures with the locomotive.

    It sits at the middle of the base well.

    However, I think the base with can be optimal around 5.4~5 inch. 5 inch is too tight.



    Attached thin wood sheets creating the mound for the rail.

    Mark position for ties and attached masking tapes for black paint.

    Applied black paint and removed the tapes

    Prepare wood strips and applied wood stain

    Attached the wood strips on positions.

    Made a jig that will keep the rail at the center.

    Managed to flatten one side of the slab using hand planner. It’s first time handling hardwood/oak and I’m learning a lot.

    Flattening using hand planner.

    Before and After.

    As you can see, it slightly bent to the right (last night) and now the right hand side is flatten. About 2mm was shaved off at both ends.

    Then sanded using 80, 120, 220, 400 and 800 grit.

    Can see the reflection after sanding.

    Next step.

    Before applying Tung Oil, applied masking tape on the area where thin wood sheets will be bonded.

    After Tung Oil first coat, it starts to show the color I was looking for.

    A couple more coats to be applied.

    Thanks a lot, Jan !

    Will keep in mind.

    Made the rail and the clips.

    Need many rails to cover 36.5 inch

    And found a red oak slab

    Need to cut to size and flatten it.

    Cutting is completed (36.5 inch x 5 inch)

    Next step,

    Flatten the slab using hand planer.

    I think it’s going to be long process:

    A. Red Oak Flattening using hand planer,

    B. sanding,

    C. Apply Tung oil and

    D. let it dry for a while

    Completed the experiments on mock-up/prototype.

    Prepared mock-up wood base.

    Add ballast on it.

    Tried to find the right viscosity of diluted wood glue. It seems 50:50 is giving good result.

    Tried to use different ballast types which are both left over from Py27.

    Let it dry for a while

    Definitely see clear difference.

    I like the lighter version better. Will use it for Ty2

    Size comparison with Py27

    Getting ready for the real base construction.

    Need to prepare good wood plate first ( 36.5 in x 5 in )

    Hi Henryk and Krisztián,

    Thanks for comment.

    just few steps more. Hope all goes well.

    Tried different tie sizes and rail clips.

    Now, the types, sizes and combinations are pretty much determined.

    Also preparing small base for mock-up

    Preparing for the rail mass production.

    The block is the ‘mold’

    Three paper strips to be passing though the hole and glued together

    Made two piece (60mm in length), placed on a mock-up base (55mm) and did fit check with proto tender wheel.


    Comparison of Py-27 rail mock-up.

    and then,

    Measured the complete locomotive lengths, width and distances between wheels.

    Now need to go and find a good wood base.

    37 inch (L) x 5 inch (W) x 0.5 inch (T)

    Added the coal top.

    Prepare the base that will be covered by coal grains.

    The magnets helps the part snap into the right position.

    Apply primer, fit check and let it dry

    Apply coal grain on top with white wood glue


    It looks the coal basket is “too full”.

    Will consider to make another version later

    (when the new version is needed)

    Applied Weathering at the wheel structure internal.

    Before Weathering

    After Weathering

    Picture doesn’t show the weathering effect that much :huh:

    And made the mock-up of coal box filler.

    Checked and found I don’t have enough coal grains to fill the box. So, need some structure that will go inside of the box and become base for thin layer of coal grains.

    And made the structure and installed

    Used magnets to make it detachable and snap in to potion when it is being placed.

    Coal surface to cover the top

    Hi Joon

    Outstanding. You teach us what perfection is!



    Hi Andi,

    Thanks a lot for your comment, Andi !

    Adding some guard (?) for the break system.

    (Based on Draccus’ build log.)


    The connection to tender.

    Added magnets matching to what already installed at tender body side.

    Tender wheels attachment test.


    Attach to body


    As expected.

    Size comparison with Py27

    weathering to follow

    Wow, Maciek,

    Thanks a lot for sharing the photo of the actual Ty2 “110” !!

    Although it’s too late to change it, but I fully appreciate your kindness, sharing the photo.

    Thanks a lot, Maciek!

    Tender Break

    Assembly completed

    painted and mounted

    Problem is… the breaks are barely seen (mostly blocked by the frame ).

    What can I say… haha

    Wheel Mass Production



    Painted&weathered wheels and added the paper pipe (ID 3mm, OD 6mm, Length 48.5mm) between wheels.

    Painted the pipe, applied the metallic enamel (Humbrol 27003), polished (using cotton polisher) and removed the masking tape to reveal white area.

    Wheels ready.

    Hi Johannes,

    Wow, many thanks a lot for sharing the background.

    Will go with 54.5mm this time.

    When I ever make another locomotive sometime in the future, I’ll make sure I keep the wheel distance correctly.

    Huge Thanks again, Johannes !

    Thanks a lot, Helmut !

    Not much progress today, but mostly on the dimension check for the tender wheels and the structure.

    As the first step, made a mockup of the wheel structure and did the fit check. No obvious interference found.

    Next, tried to check the wheel to wheel distance.

    First, calculated the distance between tender wheels (based on original plan) and fount it around 59mm.

    To make sure, I pulled the locomotive and measure the wheel distance and found it around … 8| 54~55mm (I would say… 54.5mm)

    54.5 vs 59mm


    Don’t know what is the right number for the gap for 1/25 model, but it seems I need to go with 54.5mm to match that of Locomotive.

    Hi Matthias,

    Thanks a lot for your comment.

    I’m glad that you like the build.

    Added the tender breast control rod.

    prepare parts

    the spring

    Fit check and paint

    Not perfect, but just move on.

    Painted and weathered