Thanks for asking.
I’m using weathering using diluted paint + pastel powder. I think you can check the build log of KrAZ or Ty2.
It’s been busy for a couple of weeks and today coming back to work.
The engine block.
Updated the design for more details and better assembly.
completed the engine block housing
Hi Henryk and Gustav,
Thanks a lot for your encouragement.
Tried to follow the original plan, but I decided to go other method. The picture above shows the first trial (at the bottom) and the 2nd round result (at the top). I think works better.
The structure I choose is sandwich method.
Simulated at illustrator and designed the parts (paper rings)
Prepared the paper rings, got them together and attached tire tread.
(Unfortunately, lost the pictures of the process. Will share the photo when I make the tires for Jeep)
Using Black Acrylic paint. Did brush painting for the tire to create some surface texture to make the weathering easier as I decided to use “pastel powder” based method as I did for KrAZ 255B long time ago.
if you look closer, you will see the paint surface is rough (not smooth). It will help to hold pasted powder more naturally.
Create some pastel powder (white, yellow), mix and apply on the surface. No rule here, just applied pastel as I liked.
Confirmed the structure, painting method and weathering method.
For the mass production, I may add/implant small magnet, so that I can have the Jeep detachable from the base.
Thanks a lot !
As you know, I used small magnets to make parts detachable with ease.
I put it to the test and sharing with you.[External Media: https://youtu.be/e3Cbz0DHWwo]
Thanks a lot for all your supports for the build report.
Let me come back with next project.
Thanks, HaJo !!
Congratulations on completing a magnificent work. Very, very finely detailed and finished.
You can't do better. Ten points.
Hi Klaus, Thanks a lot for your comments and points
Gigantic !!!!!! Both thumbs up!
Hi hänschen, Thanks! Yes, It turns out to be... very big... (maybe too big) Still trying to find the best place to put it.
Congratulation, this is the best steam locomotive model I have seen over the past years.
Many thanks for showing us your construction report.
Hi René, thankys a lot for your kind words and very glad to know you enjoy the build.
Amazing pics of your black beauty! I love this incredible firehorse!
Many thanks for this report and two years of practise one of the finest arts of papercraft I have ever seen!
If you come back with a new Projekt, I will be your guest again... of course!
But now lets celebrate your great masterpiece!
With kind regards from good old germany!
Hi Matthias, Really glad to know you like the build. Surely, I will be starting something, but I'm considering something smaller next time.
One can't say it better...
Hi Fiete, haha, Thanks a lot !
With few words, a masterpiece! I like it
Hi Robson, Thanks a lot !
Hi Reinhard, Thanks !
this is, without a doubt, one of the highest quality models i've ever seen on our forum with a construction report to match. Thanks to the slight sepia tint some of those photos could easily be confused with an old postcard from maybe the 50s-60s.
I applaud your skill and truly hope that this won't be your last locomotive. But no matter what you decide to tackle next, i'll certainly be watching!
Hi Johannes, Thanks for your comment. I cannot be sure when, but I also hope I make another locomotive in the future. Anyways, I'm thinking about some model that is relatively smaller than locomotive
Realy greatfull, your are a master!
Wow, Thanks a lot, Christoph !
Great job, great end result, fantastic photos!
Great to know you liked the build and pictures. Thanks Henryk !
Wonderful, it looks so real
Hi Peter, Thanks a lot for your comment !
Thanks a lot for your support so far.
Let me share a bit more pictures.
Perhaps some of you have noticed and wondered about the locomotive numbers 307 and 110. Initially at the beginning of the build, like I did when I was building Py-27, I was concerned about the possibility of failure and thus constructed two locomotive frames. Later on, I changed my plan and decided to build two Ty-2s for my daughters, even though I am uncertain if they will want the locomotives in the future. Nevertheless, I find comfort in knowing that I have created something for them with my own hands.
Sharing photos of 307 and 110.
And followings are the size comparison with my previous models.
With KrAZ 255B
307 and 110 again.
Thanks a lot.
Have great days.
the tunnelGummiwulst-Übergang (or Rubber bead transition) between the loco and the tender.
Thanks a lot Hänschen for letting me know the correct name of it.
Start with paper rings and a napkin paper strip.
Carefully attach the napkin to inner side of the paper ring. Need to be very careful as it’s very thin.
Attach small magnet to have the ‘tunnel’ detachable.
Installed the magnet at the matching location at Tender side and did fit check.
Install and get its shape and thickness when it is in place (compressed)
Using CA glue, gradually drop by drop, get the shape and the size fixed.
Well dried and ready for painting
Few steps more.
Carefully attached magnets in place for both loco and tender.
Following picture shows the maximum side angle/tilt that magnet force can hold the tender.
It seems the magnet gaps are well dialed in.
(strong enough to hold the model, but weak enough to remove the model from the base)
Started to attach ballast grains. The wood glue solution is prepared based on Jan and Johannes. (wood glue + water + a bit of dish soap)
Coming back to Paper modeling from woodworking
Attached the rail on the base
Put rail clip one by one
Attach on the base using the jig that keeps the tail in place
Add the connector between rails
Took some pictures with the locomotive.
It sits at the middle of the base well.
However, I think the base with can be optimal around 5.4~5 inch. 5 inch is too tight.
Managed to flatten one side of the slab using hand planner. It’s first time handling hardwood/oak and I’m learning a lot.
Flattening using hand planner.
Before and After.
As you can see, it slightly bent to the right (last night) and now the right hand side is flatten. About 2mm was shaved off at both ends.
Then sanded using 80, 120, 220, 400 and 800 grit.
Can see the reflection after sanding.
Before applying Tung Oil, applied masking tape on the area where thin wood sheets will be bonded.
After Tung Oil first coat, it starts to show the color I was looking for.
A couple more coats to be applied.
Thanks a lot, Jan !
Will keep in mind.
Made the rail and the clips.
Need many rails to cover 36.5 inch
And found a red oak slab
Need to cut to size and flatten it.
Cutting is completed (36.5 inch x 5 inch)
Flatten the slab using hand planer.
I think it’s going to be long process:
A. Red Oak Flattening using hand planer,
C. Apply Tung oil and
D. let it dry for a while
Not sure if you already did and just omitted it in the post, but don't forget to add a few drops of dishsoap. It breaks the surface tension of the water making it easier for the glue mixture to penetrate into all the little nooks and crannies.
Thanks a lot !! Johannes !!
Will try definitely 👍
Completed the experiments on mock-up/prototype.
Prepared mock-up wood base.
Add ballast on it.
Tried to find the right viscosity of diluted wood glue. It seems 50:50 is giving good result.
Tried to use different ballast types which are both left over from Py27.
Let it dry for a while
Definitely see clear difference.
I like the lighter version better. Will use it for Ty2
Size comparison with Py27
Getting ready for the real base construction.
Need to prepare good wood plate first ( 36.5 in x 5 in )
Preparing for the rail mass production.
The block is the ‘mold’
Three paper strips to be passing though the hole and glued together
Made two piece (60mm in length), placed on a mock-up base (55mm) and did fit check with proto tender wheel.
Comparison of Py-27 rail mock-up.
Measured the complete locomotive lengths, width and distances between wheels.
Now need to go and find a good wood base.
37 inch (L) x 5 inch (W) x 0.5 inch (T)
Added the coal top.
Prepare the base that will be covered by coal grains.
The magnets helps the part snap into the right position.
Apply primer, fit check and let it dry
Apply coal grain on top with white wood glue
It looks the coal basket is “too full”.
Will consider to make another version later
(when the new version is needed)
Applied Weathering at the wheel structure internal.
Picture doesn’t show the weathering effect that much
And made the mock-up of coal box filler.
Checked and found I don’t have enough coal grains to fill the box. So, need some structure that will go inside of the box and become base for thin layer of coal grains.
And made the structure and installed
Used magnets to make it detachable and snap in to potion when it is being placed.
Coal surface to cover the top
Outstanding. You teach us what perfection is!
Thanks a lot for your comment, Andi !
Adding some guard (?) for the break system.
(Based on Draccus’ build log.)
The connection to tender.
Added magnets matching to what already installed at tender body side.
Tender wheels attachment test.
Attach to body
Size comparison with Py27
weathering to follow
Very nice model, but tender had a different number and kind of plate. The number was "417" and written by white paint
With best regards!
Thanks a lot for sharing the photo of the actual Ty2 “110” !!
Although it’s too late to change it, but I fully appreciate your kindness, sharing the photo.
Thanks a lot, Maciek!
painted and mounted
Problem is… the breaks are barely seen (mostly blocked by the frame ).
What can I say… haha