Restart.
I decided to rebuild the bike again for the following reasons:
1. The rear springs are made “too flat.”
2. I accidentally applied a lot of CA glue while lightly attaching the springs.
3. Two axles are also firmly bonded to the frame, along with the springs.
As a result, the wheels will not level flat at the end.
Although I can try to remove those parts and save money, I decided to start fresh.
The picture shows the area where the accident occurred.
Wish me luck.
Real Axles
Also, used the same paper for making pipes
Attached the springs to the chassis and made the step, toolbox and diesel tank.
Used thin COVID-19 test kit instruction paper.
Added the spring harness ( ?? don't know how it is called 
)
Leaf Springs - 1
Tedious Meditation Process
Hi Seo,
Thanks a lot, but I cannot be sure how long it would take.
Hi Snake7,
Thanks a lot for letting me know. I’ll take a look in detail.
Frame / Chassis
Will use the same method as Ty2; LC+Air Spray.
Pretty simplified version for the truck. So, added bolt heads as I like.
I may look around reference photos for any detail up.
Hi All,
Long time no see.
I start a long term project, Faun L900 & Sd.Ah.115, which is German Heavy Cargo Truck and Low Carrier Trailer.
Let's see how long it would take.
Added a generator, manifold and some small details.
Added the bracket for generator and some more details.
Added the cover/bracket at the front
Added small magnet (OD 1.9mm, T 0.9mm) at the engine mount positions, “just for the case”
Added the oil pan at the bottom.
Added some bolt heads
Little progress today.
Added OD 2.5mm pipe that goes though the engine block. Also attached brass wire around the engine block head.
Hi Osborne,
Thanks for asking.
I’m using weathering using diluted paint + pastel powder. I think you can check the build log of KrAZ or Ty2.
It’s been busy for a couple of weeks and today coming back to work.
The engine block.
Updated the design for more details and better assembly.
completed the engine block housing
Added the casing for the differential gear, painted and weathered. Couldn’t take enough photo during the work. sharing the pictures during and after weathering.
Made some progress on rear axle.
Magnets work well.
I could use a bit more stronger one.
Moving to Axles.
Rolling 0.1mm thick paper on 2mm brass tube making 48mm long, 3mm OD paper pipe.
Attach magnets to make the wheels detachable.
Completed one set of tires for a Jeep
Added small bolt heads
And prepare inner side of the wheel
Completed the assembly
Painted and weathered
magnets works well
Next up.
Axles
WIP
Made some progress today with those wheels.
2x front, 2x rear and the spare wheel.
It’s a meditation program.
Wheel prototyping.
After iterations, got to have all sizes tuned.
Can see imperfection now, but those will be fixed.
Jig that helps for the outer shape.
Assembly completed
Ready for making more.
Made the tires for Jeep. Need 5
The change is making room for magnet.
Before sanding
After sanding
Attach tread
Round fold the tread part and hold the shape using weights.
5x Tires Completed.
Hi Henryk and Gustav,
Thanks a lot for your encouragement.
Tire Prototyping
Tried to follow the original plan, but I decided to go other method. The picture above shows the first trial (at the bottom) and the 2nd round result (at the top). I think works better.
The structure I choose is sandwich method.
Simulated at illustrator and designed the parts (paper rings)
Prepared the paper rings, got them together and attached tire tread.
(Unfortunately, lost the pictures of the process. Will share the photo when I make the tires for Jeep)
Painting.
Using Black Acrylic paint. Did brush painting for the tire to create some surface texture to make the weathering easier as I decided to use “pastel powder” based method as I did for KrAZ 255B long time ago.
if you look closer, you will see the paint surface is rough (not smooth). It will help to hold pasted powder more naturally.
Create some pastel powder (white, yellow), mix and apply on the surface. No rule here, just applied pastel as I liked.
tire prototyping completed.
Confirmed the structure, painting method and weathering method.
For the mass production, I may add/implant small magnet, so that I can have the Jeep detachable from the base.
Hi All,
Selected this model as my next project, Modelik Willys Jeep 1/25, which I got from a friend of mine a couple of months ago.
Cannot be sure how long it would take but I’m expecting shorter build than my previous 2-yr project, Ty-2
Let’s see how it goes
Hi Andi,
Thanks a lot !
Hi All,
As you know, I used small magnets to make parts detachable with ease.
I put it to the test and sharing with you.
Thanks a lot for all your supports for the build report.
Let me come back with next project.
OUTSTANDING
Thanks, HaJo !!
Congratulations on completing a magnificent work. Very, very finely detailed and finished.
You can't do better. Ten points.
Hi Klaus, Thanks a lot for your comments and points 
Gigantic !!!!!! Both thumbs up!
Hi hänschen, Thanks! Yes, It turns out to be... very big... (maybe too big) Still trying to find the best place to put it. 
Congratulation, this is the best steam locomotive model I have seen over the past years.
Many thanks for showing us your construction report.
Hi René, thankys a lot for your kind words and very glad to know you enjoy the build.
Amazing pics of your black beauty! I love this incredible firehorse!
Many thanks for this report and two years of practise one of the finest arts of papercraft I have ever seen!
If you come back with a new Projekt, I will be your guest again... of course!
But now lets celebrate your great masterpiece!
With kind regards from good old germany!
Hi Matthias, Really glad to know you like the build. Surely, I will be starting something, but I'm considering something smaller next time.
One can't say it better...
Hi Fiete, haha, Thanks a lot !
With few words, a masterpiece! I like it
Hi Robson, Thanks a lot !
Hi Reinhard, Thanks !
this is, without a doubt, one of the highest quality models i've ever seen on our forum with a construction report to match. Thanks to the slight sepia tint some of those photos could easily be confused with an old postcard from maybe the 50s-60s.
I applaud your skill and truly hope that this won't be your last locomotive. But no matter what you decide to tackle next, i'll certainly be watching!
Hi Johannes, Thanks for your comment. I cannot be sure when, but I also hope I make another locomotive in the future. Anyways, I'm thinking about some model that is relatively smaller than locomotive
Dear Joon!
Realy greatfull, your are a master!
Wow, Thanks a lot, Christoph !
Great job, great end result, fantastic photos!
Great to know you liked the build and pictures. Thanks Henryk !
Wonderful, it looks so real
Hi Peter, Thanks a lot for your comment !
Hi All,
Thanks a lot for your support so far.
Let me share a bit more pictures.
Perhaps some of you have noticed and wondered about the locomotive numbers 307 and 110. Initially at the beginning of the build, like I did when I was building Py-27, I was concerned about the possibility of failure and thus constructed two locomotive frames. Later on, I changed my plan and decided to build two Ty-2s for my daughters, even though I am uncertain if they will want the locomotives in the future. Nevertheless, I find comfort in knowing that I have created something for them with my own hands.
Sharing photos of 307 and 110.
And followings are the size comparison with my previous models.
With KrAZ 255B
With Py-27
307 and 110 again.
Thanks a lot.
Have great days.
Completed
It took 2 full years to get these pictures.
It has been great joyful learning.
Hope you like the pictures taken under the sun.
Thanks a lot for your comments, sharing opinions and suggestions.
I’ll post some more pictures for a few days before wrap up the Ty-2 build project.
Applied weathering on the railroad.
Before weathering
Applied diluted black and brown acrylic paint.
Applied few more and completed the railroad weathering.
Hi Hänschen,
Thanks for letting me know the correct name. The build log updated.
Painted the pipe and the rubber bead transition.
And applied metal coat on the rail top.
A large scale weathering next
Added the water pipe.
Somehow based on my imagination.
Installed the pipe and set the length and the shape.
Ready for painting.
Made the tunnel Gummiwulst-Übergang (or Rubber bead transition) between the loco and the tender.
Thanks a lot Hänschen for letting me know the correct name of it.
Start with paper rings and a napkin paper strip.
Carefully attach the napkin to inner side of the paper ring. Need to be very careful as it’s very thin.
Attach small magnet to have the ‘tunnel’ detachable.
Installed the magnet at the matching location at Tender side and did fit check.
Install and get its shape and thickness when it is in place (compressed)
Using CA glue, gradually drop by drop, get the shape and the size fixed.
Well dried and ready for painting
Few steps more.
Thanks, Hajo !
It got somehow dried.
While it is completely dried, added the pipe connection between tender and loco.
Painted
Current status with Py27 side by side
Hi Helmut,
Thanks a lot for your comment!
Glad to know you enjoy the build.
Taking longer than I thought.
Anyways,
Johannes and Jan,
Thanks tons for your advice!
Your tips definitely helped a lot.
Carefully attached magnets in place for both loco and tender.
Following picture shows the maximum side angle/tilt that magnet force can hold the tender.
It seems the magnet gaps are well dialed in.
(strong enough to hold the model, but weak enough to remove the model from the base)
Moving on.
Started to attach ballast grains. The wood glue solution is prepared based on Jan and Johannes. (wood glue + water + a bit of dish soap)
Coming back to Paper modeling from woodworking
Attached the rail on the base
Put rail clip one by one
Attach on the base using the jig that keeps the tail in place
Add the connector between rails
Assembly Completed
Took some pictures with the locomotive.
It sits at the middle of the base well.
However, I think the base with can be optimal around 5.4~5 inch. 5 inch is too tight.
Next
Magnets
Attached thin wood sheets creating the mound for the rail.
Mark position for ties and attached masking tapes for black paint.
Applied black paint and removed the tapes
Prepare wood strips and applied wood stain
Attached the wood strips on positions.
Made a jig that will keep the rail at the center.
Managed to flatten one side of the slab using hand planner. It’s first time handling hardwood/oak and I’m learning a lot.
Flattening using hand planner.
Before and After.
As you can see, it slightly bent to the right (last night) and now the right hand side is flatten. About 2mm was shaved off at both ends.
Then sanded using 80, 120, 220, 400 and 800 grit.
Can see the reflection after sanding.
Next step.
Before applying Tung Oil, applied masking tape on the area where thin wood sheets will be bonded.
After Tung Oil first coat, it starts to show the color I was looking for.
A couple more coats to be applied.
Although flattening is not completed, did a quick fit check with the loco.
Length 36.5 inch (93 cm)
Width: 5 inch (13cm)
Coming back to hand planning
Thanks a lot, Jan !
Will keep in mind.
Made the rail and the clips.
Need many rails to cover 36.5 inch
And found a red oak slab
Need to cut to size and flatten it.
Cutting is completed (36.5 inch x 5 inch)
Next step,
Flatten the slab using hand planer.
I think it’s going to be long process:
A. Red Oak Flattening using hand planer,
B. sanding,
C. Apply Tung oil and
D. let it dry for a while
Not sure if you already did and just omitted it in the post, but don't forget to add a few drops of dishsoap. It breaks the surface tension of the water making it easier for the glue mixture to penetrate into all the little nooks and crannies.
Thanks a lot !! Johannes !!
Will try definitely 👍
Completed the experiments on mock-up/prototype.
Prepared mock-up wood base.
Add ballast on it.
Tried to find the right viscosity of diluted wood glue. It seems 50:50 is giving good result.
Tried to use different ballast types which are both left over from Py27.
Let it dry for a while
Definitely see clear difference.
I like the lighter version better. Will use it for Ty2
Size comparison with Py27
Getting ready for the real base construction.
Need to prepare good wood plate first ( 36.5 in x 5 in )
Hi Henryk and Krisztián,
Thanks for comment.
just few steps more. Hope all goes well.
Tried different tie sizes and rail clips.
Now, the types, sizes and combinations are pretty much determined.
Also preparing small base for mock-up
