Posts by pawell

    Hi Henni,
    i just want to say "grats". nice build. =D>

    there's only one thing - which is not your fault - i miss on this plane. please do not understand it as if i'm propagating fascism or anything, but i don't understand why there's no swastika (hakenkreuz) on the tail... i know it's forbidden by german law to display nazi symbols, but the kit is from poland - so there should be no problem with it ?(. I personally don't like this attemps - which remind of censorship too much - on historical models, it seems a bit hypocritical to me. the different thing is the fascism propagation by all those neonazi groups of course. Well, time to stop flooding your gallery thread. :)

    by the way, this kit will probably be my next project, so i'd like to thank you for your construction report, i think it will be helpfull.

    Hi bernie,

    no need to repeat myself and tell you how great the work is. Could you tell us something more about how did you build the figure? Is it a wire skeleton covered with paper (that's how it looks to me, but i'm totally unsure)?

    By the way, the headless painter could be a cool hero for a short horror story, leave him as is... :) And another reason why i like him - he reminds me about myself yesterday - i was a headless painter as well, i decided to practice russian alphabet a bit by writing "POBEDA!" and "ZA SSSR!" on Il-2 bombs and today morning i realized it would be probably impossible to write on that bombs because they're hanging just behind the wheel wells doors... So this is how headless painting ends... :)


    Originally posted by bernie
    Let´s make an agreement
    - I will take this diorama with me to Prague in April and waiting from you your presence with finished model on Paper Spring Prague - Chodov - OK?

    that sounds like a plan... i don't feel like promising anything right now, but i'd like to get there.


    Originally posted by bernie
    BTW for Czech understanding cardmodellers opened DF

    thanks for the link, i'll check it asap.


    Originally posted by misiek
    TAD ladna robota jakie ma wymiary ???

    i hope you don't mind if i answer instead of TAD: :)

    wingspan/rozpietiosc: 28 cm
    lenght/dlugosc: 26 cm


    bernie bernie, you're trying to force me to go to Brno on February 24 to see it with my own eyes, right? this diorama is really breathtaking... but i WILL NOT go there, i would spend a fortune on new models which i don't have time to build... :)
    um, or maybe...

    [Blocked Image:]
    no uz opravdu trochu brzdi, zacinam se citit menecenne :)
    do Brna to predpokladam privezes? kruci, kdyz o tom tak mluvim, jsem vicemene rozhodnutej, ze tam nepojedu, ale... gr, dilema :)


    Original von pawell
    it's unbelievable how well did you do with this poor kit.

    did i really write "poor"? what i had on mind was something much much worse... :rolleyes:

    hi TAD,
    it's unbelievable how well did you do with this poor kit. i cannot believe my eyes since i have bought this kit some time ago - it was my first and last experience with Modelik - and i decided not to waste time building it.
    i wouldn't ever say this model could look quite good, because the construction seems to be poor, simplicity is the second name of this model and the print quality - do i have to mention it? :)

    so congrats again a pozdrawiem cie z prahy :)

    btw, one question - did you repaint the model or is it original colour? maybe it's just the light, but mine seems to be quite different - blue on bottom part and much lighter black on upper camo (plus the borders in the camo pattern don't look like single sharp line but are doubled a bit - maybe an extremely bad print on my kit?).

    hi josve,
    i don't speak polish much, but since polish and czech language are quite similar, i hope i can help you:

    Blaszka - i believe this is a small or thin sheet of metal

    Przòd - this means the front part of something

    Szpilka - i'm not sure about this, it sounds like a stick of wood to me, but i have a feeling i've seen it in the meaning of "pin" on some polish forum, dunno.

    Nitka - this one is easy, it's the same in czech - it means "a thread" (like the thread you use with a needle to saw something)

    i apologize to all Poles if i ravish their beautiful language, feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. :)

    that sounds like a great idea, bernie, thank you for hint.

    i'll try it as soon as i get to the wheel wells, where i'll need some more rivets - so i'll give you some feedback approximately about the year 2500 (plus minus some centuries) :).

    well, one can see you have "some" experience in cardmodel building... :)


    Originally posted by fuchsjos
    A question: In some pictures it looks, as if you engraved the plate joints and rivets emphasized. Is this true or is it only the outstanding print.
    If it is true, how do you doing it?

    Hi Josef,
    you're right, on most parts (except for wings, where it would take probably half a year to do it :)) i tried to do the rivets and joints between the sheets plastical. sometimes it was hard to tell if they should rise above the surface or they should be embedded down into it, so i probably did some mistakes, but who cares. :)

    the way how do i do it is quite simple - i use a pinhead to push it through the paper. for the raised rivets, i get their position on the side without print using a round toothpick and a sheet of carbon paper - you have to put the carbon paper below the model part (so that it has its "active" side up) and slightly push on each rivet with the toothpick. this gives you small points on the back side of paper, so you know where to push. there's a little problem with parts which should be reinforced with thicker card, because it's impossible to push through that thick paper. you have to do it either before you reinforce it (and you'll probably find out that the rivets disappear as the glue dries) or make the rivets embedded into the part (lower than the surrounding surface) which is "wrong" in terms of historical/technical accuracy, but looks quite good anyway.

    if anyone has an idea about how to solve this little problem, please share it. the rivets in 1/33 are a bit too small to make them from paper/wire as is usual on vehicles in 1/24 scale, so i don't know. maybe a little drops of glue would do the trick, but it would require some fine painting.

    hi all,

    thanks for support, it's really very motivating.

    now, when the wings await to be done, i'm building everything else because i'm a bit scared of this crucial phase - oh well, seriously, i'm not :) - it won't be the first model i wrecked by doing the wings geometry wrong...
    well, seriously now, second try - i didn't have enough free time in one piece to dare to build these large sections during today and yesterday, so i was working on armament and other accesories. I glued all four rockets (no need to show photos, they all look about the same due to some miracle :) ), prepared the caps for front wheels (i still have to add some "screws" and paint it) and built one more cockpit equipment - the rockets & bombs release controller with the cocking levers. in the original kit, this controller was simplified too much, so i decided to add some detail. the colours of painted and printed surfaces look different on the shot (probably because of the flash), but there's no such difference visible in normal lighting.

    hi Gil,
    your tutorial is really interesting. it could come handy one day when i get my dream model - Fairey Swordfish - somewhere, or when i decide to leave WWII skies and move to earlier planes :)

    Zaphod, Mindaugas

    you guys are too fast for me :)
    thanks for your kind words. after I finish the model, I'll take some shots and red-circle some of my faults, so you can see it's not perfect at all... :)

    from what I can tell (I have two unbuilt Halinski models here and two other from GPM, plus I've seen some more), both publishers publish fine quality models. Halinskis models have more parts - which is not necesarilly an advantage, i can't imagine how it's possible to build some of that 1x1 mm sized and twice folded parts :) - and quite nice weathering printed on them - the weathering on Bf 110G2 is a real masterpiece. GPM seems to offer some freedom on how complex model do you want to build, which sounds good to me too. There's only one thing I don't like a little bit - some kits from GPM (you can see it on some scans on this forum) has printed highlights on the parts to enchance higher/lower areas, edges and so on, and I think it's a bit overdone on some models.

    the frame for the wings is quite similar on all models i guess. one more thing to add although - this part was a brainteaser to me, because i didn't find any system like "all parts will point their face side away from the fuselage or upside", so i spent a lot of time rotating the parts and frying my brain - not to mention that the lines for where to glue other parts were printed in the same linetype for the front and back side of the part. :)

    the card used to reinforce the ribs was from a package from some of my xmas gifts - a t-shirt i believe (if it wasn't the t-shirt, it would have to be the socks, which i find a bit improbable :))

    next will be two shots of finished gunners compartment. to be honest, this place would easily rank to the "Top ten places I would hate to be at" in real plane in wwii - the gunner didn't have seat, just a belt to sit on and four handles, he had almost no protection, just some armor plates added in/onto the fuselage, plus the machinegun had only 150 shots. i've read some statistics according which a pilot had a chance about 8:1 to survive a combat flight, and some more statistics which said that there was almost seven gunners killed for one KIA pilot. :(

    well back to the model:

    Hi Kartonists,
    it's about time to update this report a bit. i was quite busy over last days, so the progress is not big, but i decided to publish it here anyway. the shots were taken yesterday in a bit of hurry, so i have to admit some of them really _should_ have better quality, but i will continue with build instead of taking them again. :)

    at first, grats to a nice model and thanks for a step-by-step wheel building photos.

    i have one little little little suggestion - maybe it's just the light, but the wheels look too black to me. i believe you could get a (very slightly :)) better look by drybrushing them with white or light grey colour. but that's just a small hint... :)

    very well done, as all your builds - so no surprise at all :)
    the damaged shield was a great idea, it improves the look of the gun alot... i'm looking forward to see finished diorama and i'm curious about how you'll make the paper soldier - i'm thinking of building a paper soviet wwii pilot myself, so any inspiration will be welcome... :)