Posts by pawell

    Hi all,
    i'm finally getting close to the end of this build, so i'll add some overview shots. i didn't do much work on it (as always :)), mostly i connected the already done parts to the plane. i also didn't paint some white edges (tips of the wings, edges of cannons covers), it's still in my to-do list. some flaws can be seen here (like those damn underwing pods, there are some egdes visible on the fuselage to wing part and so on), i'll try to repair what i can and the rest will stay as is, nothing is perfect... :)
    i'm quite happy i'm almost done with this model, i'm starting to feel the slight loss of fun factor on it, because i'm building it quite long already, so it's about time :). there's not much to do in fact, the last bigger part will be the canopy, which i hope to prepare today evening and finish tomorrow when i get some suitable foil to do the glazing.

    hi mm,
    as far as i know, there are 3 basic ways to do the rivets - they differ by the final look, required skill and amount of time spent :) - but all the methods are quite time consuming.


    1) you can use small drops of glue like you've already said, you have to repeat putting the drops on place until the head or nut or whatever is big enough. i use my "common" disperse glue, but i guess most of glue types can be used. if you don't want to paint it (which is not your case), you can try even mixing the glue with a pencil lead powder - if the glue is transparent or semi-transparent and the amount of lead powder is just right (which was the biggest problem for me when i tried it), you can partly see the original colour and partly the "metallic" black areas; this looks like a weathered rivet if you're lucky :). i tried this, but aside from the common problem "how to make all the rivets the same size" there are another pitfalls - the amount of lead as noted before and a proper mixing. i was able to get one rivet i liked for each ten or so i did at the beginning, and after some practice this ratio got to approximately 1:1. at this point i decided to give up, but i believe some more practice (like a year or two :D) would definitely help it.


    2) you can push the rivet "out from the paper" with some blunt pointy thing, like an old ball pen or the head of a pin, from the side without the print. this is probably the fastest and easiest method (and my favourite as well), but the results are unluckily the worse. the rivets made this way are pretty good for scales like 1:33, but i think they won't be good enough for larger scales like 1:25 or 1:16. the only "trick" here is how to get the position of the future rivets from the printed side to the other. i use a carbon paper, which i put under the sheet with the kit parts (it has to have its "active" side up) and then i push slightly at each rivet i want to have marked on the side without print with a round toothpick or something similar (pointy, but not too sharp) - you get small black dots on the side without print this way so you know where exactly to push like described before. last note - you have to use a somewhat soft workpad (like a sheet of card or a harder mousepad), not a hardened steel plate... :)


    3) you can cut the rivets (and also hexagonal nuts) with some kind of punch-and-die set and glue them at place. i don't have much experience with this method, only from what i see on forums - and i tried cutting some rivets with a home made punch-and-die-thing-that-doesn't-work-exactly-well, but this won't probably help you :)
    with this method you get the best results imho, but i guess it's a bit toilsome if you need large amounts of rivets/nuts.


    i hope this helps, maybe someone else will add some experience as well.

    oh well, watching the photos, i have two more notes:
    1) the "springs" on the landing gear legs are to be painted again, somehow the paint went off while completing them :)
    2) the bottom front part of the fuselage has a basic weathering applied - it was done with a mix of dry chalks, ground on sandpaper to a fine powder and applied with a stick for cleaning your ears :). as a final result, i want to have something similar like you do with preshading on plastic kits.

    hi all,
    i've finally found some time to update this report - but it's gonna be just a teenie weenie little update anyway.


    so first for some wheelworks and the landing gear. i decided to paint the whole construction of the gear with acrylic paint - i didn't like original colour which seemed too light to me for possible weathering (bad for me and history it's the only gray i had - RLM 02 luftwaffe grey :) - but i couldn't wait so i used it).
    the wheels are made with method described before, the insides are more like "my fantasy" but i'm afraid that the original insides from the kit were not much closer to a real plane. the "screws" are made of small drops of disperse glue (glueing was repeated for several times) and it's painted with humbrol metallic enamel. tires are finished with four narrow strips of 80 g/m2 office paper rolled around the wheels.

    hi flu,
    that's true, geebee seems to be ok, but it's not that usual on older models - as far as i know (someone wrote it here somewhere), geebee was not original model from modelik - it was designed by someone else and given to them. it was said as well, that geebee's author designed two new models for modelik, so i believe they're just fine, but older models are most definitely not (i have a jak-3 from 1999 from modelik and it is very poorly designed, the colours are not good and the print is very bad too).
    but it's good to know what models are worth buying, so i really like discussions like this.

    and now back to il-2:
    i need to complain to someone, so here we go:
    the underwing pods with wheelwells are by far the worst part i have encountered on this model... oh my. the fit is quite terrible, rear formers are about maybe 4 milimeters too big, so they require a lot of cutting. almost whole pod is to be assembled from two parts - inside and outside, which would be enough for closed doors and gear up, but when building the plane with gear down, it's just "not-the-best-at-all" solution. according to instructions, one is supposed to build the pods as closed and then cut and form the doors, but it's complicated and should be constructed in a different way imho.


    i also tried the fit on the wing - it is pretty good, although it's not wide enough in the place where the cut former is - but it's easy to repair. but i found another flaw - when i put the gear inside the pod, there's no distance between the pod and the gear (see attachment), which i'll have to solve somehow - i'll probably move the whole gear construction backwards :(
    and, um, did i tell you there's no assembly drawing for this part?


    well, enough of complaining. i have to admit this part upsets me a bit (and i believe i have quite great patience) - but on the other way, it's done wrong just compared to the rest of this kit, which is outstanding...

    for the present, i'm thinking about 120 or 140 g/m2 paper - it looks quite fine, it seems not too soft for big parts and not too heavy for forming detail, but i'll see more when i try it :)
    and i'll have to try, because this is my second download project - first one was a japanese anime figure i gave to a friend, and i printed it on 80 g/m2 office paper and reinforced with the same - it wasn't really bad, but i think that heavier paper in one piece could be better.

    thank you for your words of praise, bernie...
    when i saw the original graphics, that was exactly what i thought - but on the other hand, it's an advantage when recolouring it, since the fills are really solid, not dotted like on scans.
    i have reskinned the fuselage so far (i'll add some more weathering, my idea is to have a really used plane), now the wings wait, which will be the most important part - there are some ribs that should be "visible" on the camo to add some realism.
    regarding the exhaust smoke marks - i'm still undecided if i do them before print on paper or after assembly - but maybe i'll do both, some basic sketch in bitmap and fine tuning when built.
    you're right about the red guards emblem (that star&flag thing) - i have some scratches on it in original file (in 600 dpi), but they're almost invisible in this resized sample - which probably means i'll have to enchance them a little bit more.
    about the print - i'm not sure yet, i'll have to do some test prints. but first things first - so i'm working on it only when i need a pause building sturmovik.

    hi all,
    this is just to let you know i didn't die yet... :)


    i didn't do much work on il-2 since the last report - i've completed the wheels and built the landing gear and i started work on one of two wheel wells. i don't have any shots yet, i'll hopefully post something by the end of week.


    and by the way, i've decided what will be my next project - and i'm working on preparations when i'm waiting for glue/paint to dry on sturmovik.
    i feel mother russia needs some reinforcements for our brave comrades, so next plane will be polikarpov i-16 "rata" from free download from modele kartonowe. i decided to try some repainting in computer and after several hours spent on wings palette i decided to do "red 21" in winter camo.

    hi,


    ramatoto:
    i guess it's quite hard to translate czech text to any other language without knowing czech (and that other language of course :)). there are some online dictionaries (just plain dictionaries, not translators as far as i know) like http://www.slovnik.cz, but they can translate only single words, "undeformed" by gramatical use. there is a few software translators as well, but none of them is free - we have PC Translator at work, the translations are really funny sometimes, but this is what would help you at least to understand a bit.


    @all:
    just yesterday i took some shots from this book with historical town - i didn't know that some introduction already exists here :). i think there's no need to post my shots as well, i used about the same system as the author of thread did.
    btw, this book is in the last line in my signature, so now you know why the smileys are there :)

    Hi,
    Andreas is right. ABC is a somewhat popular czech magazine targeted to young people. It has more than 40 years long history and a very long tradition in publishing card models (of various quality) as well. The models are in form of an "attachment" - there are about 6-8 pages in the middle of each issue, which have a heavier paper and contain 2 or 3 cardmodels (or parts, if a model is divided into several parts). Lots of czech cardmodel builders started with a model from this magazine, so it's quite well known here and is a favourite source of models. There was a lot of great models, especially architectural models from architect Vyskovsky were a real masterpiece.
    Feel free to ask if you have some more questions.

    Quote

    Originally posted by ME 109
    1) Wyciac po sklejeniu


    cut after glueing


    Quote

    Originally posted by ME 109
    2)
    W przypadku wykonywania wersji z silnikiem usunac ten frangment poszycia


    this is probably approximately:


    if you build the version with engine, remove this part (or part of this part or something, dunno exactly) :)


    i hope i didn't translate the second part completely wrong, i'm sure with the first half, but i don't understand the last word... but maybe this will be enough for you.

    bernie:
    thank you for valuable hint, i'll probably try it when building the pilot. for this first test model, i modelled the head in an easier way - i took a paper handkerchief, put some disperse glue on it and formed a rough head shape by rolling it in my hands. it allows you to model the shape more and more precisely as the glue dries (until it dries too much of course). then i took a cigarette paper and glued it on the "head", making sure the facial part is smooth and rolled the cigarette paper around it as if i was wrapping a candy. when the glue was dry enough, i cut two twisted parts of that cigarette paper (up and down on the head). this way, i got a thing i could call a head with some enthusiasm, with smooth face (i tried to shape it then with a pin and it worked quite well). the roughest parts are on bottom and top, where i cut the cig paper, but it's in places where it doesn't matter.


    but don't forget - my figure will be in 1/33 scale, so it will be much less detailed than your flak gunner - this method would be probably not usable for bigger scales.


    MichiK
    thank you for the link, i'll check it.

    hi bernie,
    i'll check my favourite bookstore as soon as i find some time for it, as well as the library - of course if i don't find anything suitable sooner.
    by the way, yesterday i did a test build of the figure - and i guess i'll make a report called "how do i do it completely wrong" :) well it wasn't THAT bad, technically it was ok, which is what i needed to know... the result looks like a local weirdo from the park looking for some little girls to rape, but even that is quite good because i did expect much worse result :)

    Hi all,
    i'd like to ask you for help. i need a c o l o u r photo of a soviet pilot from WWII era. I searched a lot, but didn't find anything suitable. There's a lot of B&W footage, but that's not what i need.


    Thanks in advance.

    and as the last post in this update, a to-do list:


    - finish the wings, solve the problem with horizontal steering flaps
    - build the wheel wells
    - build the landing gear
    - build the oil cooler
    - build the propeller
    - build the canopy
    - put all the small parts on place (cannons, pitot pipe, some handles, antenna...)
    - do a weathering (at least at the bottom light blue part and behind the exhaustion pipes)


    a "maybe-to-do-still-not-decided" list:


    - do some more weathering
    - varnish the model (although probably not, i have no previous experience, so i'm scared :))
    - build some kind of mini-diorama - just a flat grassy ground, maybe with a *little* muddy puddle, wheel tracks, a pilot... uhm, i'll see... :)

    in the meantime, i glued the exhaustion pipes on their place, which took me about 2 hours :rolleyes:. i had to cut a "wedge" at the inner end of each pipe, so they point backwards as they should. the pipes are made of paper, painted with mix of humbrol metallic enamels and drybrushed with aquarels. when i finish the build, i want to add some weathering, so the pipes hopefully look a bit like burned dirty metal.

    i also finished the deadly load of my sturmovik - two bombs and 4 rockets. i wrote an inscription in russian alphabet onto each bomb - "POBEDA!" ("victory!") and "ZA SSSR" ("for the soviet union"). a day later i realized i was like a headless painter from bernies awesome diorama (here) because the bombs are placed just next to the wheel wells doors. now i have to pretend i intended to do it like this, as if the ground personnel painted it before arming the bombs (and i was lucky since this variant is more probable :)). the poor quality of inscriptions is intentional - i wanted to simulate a lime-wash writing done with a really raw brush.

    left wing reflector was from simple one piece, which i didn't like. i cut out the printed yellow circle representing the bulb, added the cone behind this and painted silver. after a lot of thinking, i built the "bulb" with the method i've never tried before (and i haven't seen it anywhere either, so maybe i'm an inventor - hooooray! ;)). i used a transparent foil used for wrapping the food. i created a bubble from this foil, twisted it several times so the air cannot get out and wrapped around with a thread. to be absolutely sure it will stay as it was, i covered it with a thick layer of disperse glue.
    below you can see both parts separately, assembled together and the final look in the wing. i was unable to take better shots, as it would probably require some kind of diffuse box or light tunnel :)

    this is all i can say about the wings, i hope i'll manage to make them as good as possible anyway. the problems stated are not really big ones, but they're quite serious which surprised me on this kit.


    and now for something completely different. there are two empty shells outlets on the bottom part of the wings, which i decided to cut out. i don't know what was inside of this holes, so i decided to make "a black emptiness" with several pieces of paper painted black.

    i started to build a wings. i have to say, construction of wings is the weakest link of this kit so far. there's several pitfalls here:


    - first of all, the "pseudo-3d" print on part 56, which is the wing surface nearest to the fuselage, is heavily overdone, which creates a very unnatural look. i forgot to take a photo to demonstrate this, so i'll add it next time.


    - the inner ribs and formers are done quite well and create a good frame, but there's a few problems - you can see on attached image. marked as "A" - there's a reflector in the left wing in this place, so i had to cut a large part of the former. marked as "B" - there should be enough space for the steering part, but it is not, because it's about 1 or 2 mm shorter. i believe this is not my fault, because there's only one part that can affect it - 59d - which was shorter already in the kit. one more problem is with the flaps, if you build them open - the inside covers are ok, but the frame (59e) doesn't sit at the edge of the flap; it's ok at the side closer to fuselage, but on the other side is about 5 mm wide gap.


    - generally, the fit of parts is not as good as i'd want it to be - mostly at the connection between two wing surfaces (56 and 60). luckily, there will be a thin long part covering this joint.

    um, btw, sorry for spamming your thread with offtopic comments, but i highly regard your hints and opinions. at least this thread stays in most current, which is exactly what it deserves (your photos of course, not my spam :))

    Quote

    Originally posted by bernie
    S naradim umi delat kazda p..a!!!


    :] :]


    Quote

    Originally posted by bernie
    Regarding your signs on bombs - do not worry that not readable! For sure the soldiers did not wrote them in order to be readable when hanged on plane - you catched reality 8)


    that's exactly what came on my mind, the most probable is that they painted it before arming it, but i wrote one inscription from front to back (for the left bomb) and the other from back to front, so that it can be read from both sides. i'm afraid that would require a lot of thinking for the common russian soldier (no offence meant :)) if he painted it when the bomb wasn't placed on the plane yet. but i'll probably leave it as it is, dunno yet. i'll update my construction report with some photos when i get home so it will be clear what i'm talking about.