Model Storage Box/Display Base

PART ONE: The Base

I have been asked to describe the design and construction of my card model storage boxes. Not only do they store models safely, they allow them to be easily transported to shows and events. They can even be stacked to save space. That is not all. The base of the box provides a solid platform for the construction of diorama scenes. Heavy scenes can be built up with plaster and wire such as mountainous military scenes. The base will not warp.

An added feature of the box is that the lid can be placed under the model to raise it up for interest on a flat table. Several models probably would be of different heights, and the lids, acting as risers would add interest to an otherwise flat, unexciting table display.

An extension of this project would be to standardize the size of the base for several models, make opaque cardboard lids for each one, but construct one transparent plastic or glass lid for use on any one of the bases. This would work if you like to rotate your home display on a regular basis and feature only one model at a time.

Here is a drawing of the box showing its parts. The moulding (A) has an inner rabbet to receive the base (B) and a deeper outer rabbet to receive the lid (E). I have not indicated dimensions in these diagrams. In Canada, wood products are measured in imperial measure.

Lagerkisten / Grundplatten für Modelle

TEIL 1: Die Grundplatte

Ich bin gefragt worden, doch mal die Bauweise meiner Lagerkisten für Kartonmodelle zu zeigen. Man kann darin die Modelle nicht nur sicher lagern, sondern auch sehr einfach zu Ausstellungen und Messen transportieren. Man kann sie sogar stapeln, um Platz zu sparen. Aber das ist noch nicht alles. Der Boden der Box dient gleichzeitig als Grundplatte für den Aufbau eines Dioramas. Man kann auch sehr schwere Dioramen aus Gips und Draht aufbauen ohne daß sich der Boden verzieht.

Eine weitere Eigenschaft dieser Kisten ist, daß man den Deckel unter das Modell stellen kann, um dieses etwas höher aufzustellen. Mehrere Modelle haben wahrscheinlich unterschiedlichen Höhen und die Deckel gestalten dann die Darstellung etwas interessanter, die sonst auf einem ebenen Tisch sehr unspektakulär wäre.

Eine Erweiterung dieses Projekts wäre es, die Größe der Grundplatten mehrerer Modelle zu standardisieren, um dann für jedes einen eigenen Deckel aus Karton zu bauen und eine transparente Plastik- oder Glasabdeckung, die dann für alle verwendet werden kann. Das würde funktionieren, wenn man zuhause seine Modelle regelmäßig durchtauscht und immer nur ein Modell stehen hat.

Hier ist eine Zeichnung, welche den Aufbau zeigt. Die Form (A) hat eine innere Nut, welche die Grundplatte (B) aufnimmt und eine äußere Nut, welche den Deckel (E) aufnimmt. Ich habe hier keine Bemaßung eingezeichnet, Holzprodukte werden in Kanada zöllig gemessen.

Section 1-1 shows the moulding and base in profile. Notice that the base sits proud of the moulding. This reveal adds interest to the finished base.

Continuing with the diagram, the footprint of the model (D) is bonded to a 1mm card (C) with spray adhesive which in turn is bonded to the base (B). I build architectural models, so there is usually a printed model 'footprint' involved. If the model requires that access holes be cut in the footprint, the card is not bonded to the base until the model has been constructed.

The lid (E) is constructed from corrugated cardboard or if the model is to be transported in inclement weather, plastic corrugated sheet. The finger holes (F) make the lid easy to remove and replace carefully over the model. The sides of the box overlap the ends as seen in Section 2-2 and a wooden triangular strip (H) reinforces the internal corners. Duct tape (G) fastens all the box parts together.
A velcro strap (J) warps itself around the base and the lid.

The Moulding
Construction of the base begins with the wooden moulding. This diagram shows how two mouldings (A ) and two triangular sections (H) can be shaped and ripped from one piece of wood.

1. The pieces of stock. (1 x 3 pine, used here, is actually 2 1/2" x 3/4 " dressed).
2. A jointer is used to cut the rabbets. The long lid rabbet is 1/4" wide x 1/2" deep; the base recess rabbet is 1/4" wide by 3/16" deep. This leaves a 1/4" centre section.

1. The deep rabbets cut.
2. The shallow rabbets cut.

1. Ripping the moulding.
2. The pieces.
3. Ripping the triangular strips on a bandsaw.

The Base
1. Sizing the base.
The footprint of the model has been bonded to 1mm card and is being used to determine the size of the base. The base is a sheet of 1/4" MDF.

1. As well as using these boxes for card models, they come in handy for other displays. Here a display unit (a belfry for turned bells) is being used to determine the size of its base. The display can be loaded, transported easily in a car, and set up in a flash by taking off the lid at a vendor's table.
2. The cut...

1. The moulding lengths are marked directly on the stock using the base.
2. The mitred corners are cut using a mitre saw.
3. The cut...

1. Mitred corners.
2. The mouldings are glued around the base and pinned at the corners.
3. An assembled base.
4. A primed base.

1. Bumper feet are fastened to the base. They are made of Polylastomer, a durable, non-staining, non-marring plastic (superior to rubber). Do you notice something distinctively Canadian about the screw heads?

1. The completed base.

Hello Günter,

Thank you. No, I am not a carpenter. When you see the shot in Part Two of my report, you will see the top of my table saw in a condition that would make a grown man cry.

Günter, I am a retired school teacher. Woodturning is my passion now as well as card modelling. I will show some Christmas ornaments at the end of this report.

Cheers...John

PART TWO: The Lid

The cardstock for the lid comes from preformed shipping boxes. Brown or white coated corrugated knockdown containers are available at most office supply outlets. I ignore all cuts and scoring made in the material and cut out the largest panels possible.
1. The material.
2. Cutting out panels with a framing square and box cutter.

The ends of the box are made first.
1. Measuring up an end.
2. Ripping cardboard on a table saw. (Absolutely nothing wrong with a simple knife and rule...)

1. Cross cutting an end to the height of the box.
IMPORTANT: Determine the highest point of your model. Add 3 cm.

1. Testing the ends of the box.

Leif!
It is so good to hear from you! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Thank you for your kind comments.
John

A critical element of the lid is the grip hole. You have to be able to grab hold of something that is not going to slip out of your hands. You want to be able to get the lid back on without damaging the model.

Since I make a lot of boxes, I decided to make the cutting of the grip holes easier. I made a jig.
1. The jig closed.
2. The jig open.

1. The jig open with one end of the box registering up against a stop.
2. The jig closed.

The jig not only locates the holes, it prevents tear out.
1. Boring a hole.
2. The holes.
3. Cutting out the web.
4. The finger grips.

Now that the ends are complete, the sides of the box are measured up. They overlap the ends.
1. A side piece longer than necessary is taped to an end.
2. The side piece is lightly tacked to the end with masking tape.

1. The left side tacked temporarily.
2. The right side being marked for length. Notice that measurements are taken directly from the parts in place.

1. One side tacked in place.
2. Measuring for corner reinforcement.
3. In place.

1. Two corners reinforced.
2. All reinforced.

1. Measuring up the lid.

Thanks Herbert and Thomas.

The box does not look very attractive at all with all its raw edges exposed. A strong edging is required to strengthen and enhance the look of the box. This will be white duct tape.
1. All the lid parts tacked in place with masking tape.

The first step in cleaning things up is to cover the four vertical edges of the lid.

The Horizontal edges:
1. Lay a longer than necessary strip of tape along the top edge of the top.
2. Trim the tape to a distance 1" longer than the top at each end.
3. Fold down the tape onto the side of the lid.

1. Make a slit in the end of the overlap back to the corner.
2. Lift one edge of the tape and draw the other edge around the corner.
3. Finish the corner by bringing the other tab downward.
4. A finished corner.

This procedure is repeated as you work our way around the other edges of the top.

1. The completed box.
2. The lid acting as a riser.
Now all I need is a model to fill the box!

Here is a better example of how the lid can raise up the model and give it impact. Several lids could be placed at various angles on a table. A table covering could be draped and shaped over them. I don't think the box lids would be very attractive just by themselves under the models. The finger grips and all the taping would become distracting. But a table covering would unify the look and allow the eye to focus on the models. Someday I may be able to set up such a display.
John