Micromodel: Old London Bridge

  • Hallo,


    Jetzt, wo ich seit einigen Monaten eure Bauberichte geniesse, möchte ich auch einen Beitrag liefern an der Freude am Lesen und mein erster Baubericht erstellen.
    Ich möchte mich dabei der englischen Sprache bedienen und zwar aus zwei Gründen.
    Erstens, wenn ich etwas mehr Wörter widmen will an einem Bauvorgang, komme ich auf Englisch doch wesentlich schneller voran, und zweitens möchte ich auch an einige englischsprachige Architekturanhänger, der Baubericht betrifft ein Architekturmodell, die Gelegenheit bieten den Bericht zu lesen (ich meine zu wissen dass jeder hier der englischen Sprache mächtig ist).
    Deutschsprachige Reaktionen sind selbstverständlich herzlich willkommen!


    Model: Old London Bridge
    Model Series: Micromodels
    Size: LxWxH = 22.5 x 6.5 x 3 cm
    Scale: approx. 1:1250 ( I read on the internet the original is some 280 m. long)
    Number of Sheets: 12
    Number of Parts: approx 200
    Presentation format: courtesy John


    For a description and history of this bridge I can recommend following link: Old London Bridge
    My interest in micromodels was aroused when a saw an assembled model of Westminster Abbey at a fair a couple of months ago, a really charming piece of work.
    The last micromodel report I found in the forum, the Houses of Parliament by Ulrich ( great build Ulrich), seems to be over a year old so I thought it would be of interest to enter this report.


    Progress may be slow at times because I am currently also building HMVs Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse.
    I originally planned to complete that model before starting another one but, judging the pace of building, this plan would move this report into next year (2010 indeed). I dont want to wait that long with the Old London Bridge report.


    The original kit is no longer available so I ordered a reprint. This ships as 5 printed 160 g. sheets.
    In spite of the cardboard reinforced envelope used for shipping the sheets suffered some folding during transportation. Not a big problem since I will scan and reprint anyway.
    This gives me the opportunity to touch up the colours, make enhancements to the model and make a reprint when something goes horribly wrong. No second thought here as the original is already a reprint.


    Being a micromodel, its parts are small, but not the smallest Ive handled (some KWdG parts are smaller).
    The challenge here is, given the sketchy drawing style that makes the lines appear quite bold in relation to the size of the parts, to judge exactly where to cut and score in order to arrive at a straight assembly.
    On the other hand, I expect the real thing must have looked quite raggedly in its heydays; a little "warping" may not be a bad thing. And when things really get out of hand there's always the possibility of a reprint.


    It may take some time before I present the first parts cut and glued in place as the first thing to do involves some cosmetic surgery.....


    Cheers for now,


    Bruno

  • Hello Bruno,


    This will be a most interesting thread. All the best with the build.

    Looking at the picture of the sheets above, I see that no tabs are used where edges of roofs, chimneys, etc, are joined. They are butt jointed. Makes sense. Will you be using a white glue?


    Cheers...John

  • Hello Bruno.
    I think it will be a very interesting modell.
    Micromodells are little beautiful modells I like very much.
    I will read your report every day.
    Good luck
    Chrissi

  • Gents,


    Thanks for your interest and your encouraging words.


    John,
    White glue is preferable here indeed.
    I will join without tabs wherever possible (even when tabs are provided). The thickness of the card in relation to the size of the parts will undoubtedly lead to non-rectangular assemblies when joining via tabs.
    My experience is that it is impossible to compensate for the tab offset as this int.al. depends on how deep the score is. Fortunately most parts are small enough to be butt jointed.


    Michael,
    The first few pictures on this site led me to believe I was looking at a computer rendered model.
    It turns out to be a huge model, very impressive.


    Zaphod,
    You could scale it up, but then I guess you would find it somewhat lacking in detail.



    In the meanwhile Ive spent some time on the model without having touched a single cutter or pot of glue; instead Ive been doing some nip and tuck using the computer.
    The first picture shows the original cards; the second one the result after editing.
    In my initial post I mentioned the challenge of accurate cutting and scoring.
    Ive used Paint Shop Pro to reshuffle and line up the parts and Ive added some auxiliary lines.
    All of this to support orthogonal cutting and scoring. I have added the piers on card 3 to get the complete set on one sheet.
    The two parts of the archway I have joined to create a single "spine" for the model.
    The creator of the model also suggests to add lots of chimneys so I have doubled all these parts.
    Quite a job but I think it will pay off later on (4 cards down; 8 to go).
    Next job at hand is to touch up the colours; with every scan/reprint coulour saturation decreases and colours were already less than vibrant on the sheets I received.
    After that the real job can start, the other cards will be edited as and when required.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Colour saturation has been satisfactorily adjusted; the reprint (pic 1) is as close to the original as I can get it.


    I will start with the spine of the model; the set of arches that span the river.
    The cut and folded spine, together with the strips of card that hold the ceilings to the arches, are shown on pic 2. Ill cut the ceiling parts from the strip right before joining them with the spine.


    The model has a single part for the arches and the arch ceiling strips (pic 1). I have decided to separate arches and ceiling strips and to join them as separate parts. Working this way I can better control the ceiling strip width and arrive at a rectangular archway cross-section when the ceiling strips are joined in place.


    There is another reason to separate arches and arch ceiling strips.


    I have noticed that the left and right sides of the arches are not an exact match. This is illustrated by the pins that are placed in the cusps of the arches (pic3). Most of the pins do not run perpendicular to the length of the spine; nor are they positioned horizontally.
    This implies that neither side of the spine is a good reference to start joining the ceiling strips at the arches.


    The ceiling strips have to be joined with both left and right sides of the arches at the same time, gently nudging the ceiling strips in place as close to the arches edge as possible. This without leaving any ceiling strip edges visible under the arch, while at the same time keeping the spine from twisting (not unlike building the frame of a ship model).
    A piece of thick card, cut to size to hold the ceiling strips in place and keep the spine aligned, comes in handy (pic4).


    This assembly method also implies that the lengths of the ceiling strips can only be determined when they are exactly in place. I plan to join oversized ceiling strips and cut them to size with a pair of small scissors when they are glued in place.


    I'm not quite sure what this plan will lead to. If it succeeds it will certainly look good. If not: reprint and start over again a little less ambitiously. Fingers crossed....


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Hello Bruno,
    A most impressive start to this project, Bruno. You really have thought through the preparatory work before picking up the knife. Your attention to detail is going to produce a beautiful model.


    You may have sparked a new interest in the Micromodel line.


    Cheers...John

    Edited once, last by John ().

  • The archway has been assembled and its edges have been coloured (pic1).
    The assembly method of joining individual oversized arch ceiling strips (pic2) and cutting these to size after the glue has set (pic3, I apologize for the poor quality of the picture) has turned out quite well.
    I have cut the strips to size a couple of minutes after joining them, when the glue has set but has not yet completely dried. Waiting too long would have lead to having to cut through dried patches of glue (glue was generously applied) making a quality cut more difficult.


    All in all, Im quite happy with the result. The part is not twisted and has a rectangular cross-section as planned. Had I tried to join all arch ceiling strips flush with both sides of the arches Im sure the part would have looked like an Italian Rotini.


    The arch walls are coloured on the inside as well as on the edges to hide the overlaps from sight once the archway is joined to the piers.


    The gaps between the strips will no longer be visible once the archway sits on the piers supporting it.
    In the original part these gaps are not there. With these gaps the archway retains some flexibility. This might come in handy when joining it with the piers.


    Next in line are the 17 piers. The model suggests to apply split matches representing the piles that run the perimeter of the piers (pic4). Im not sure, I fear that split matches on the scale of the model would translate to sequoia trunks on a 1:1 scale.
    Ill prepare a sample with and without piles and ask for your opinion.


    Cheers,


    Bruno

  • I have built two sample piers, one with and one without piles at its perimeter.


    Split matches didnt work for me. The grain of the wood caused them to splinter long before I had cut them to size.


    The picture shows strands of 0.5 mm wire painted with acrylic and attached to the front pier.
    On a 1:1200 scale that still corresponds to 60 cm diameter piles. I doubt whether they were really that big (more like half the size I would think).


    Going even smaller makes no sense I guess as such level of detail does not match with the drawing style of the model.
    In addition to that adding piles to the piers would bring a level of detail to them that would be found nowhere else on the model.
    The piers would also become far too heavy and too wide, almost closing the gaps between them.


    I fear all this would eventually lead to an unbalanced model so I have opted for the original design as shown by the rear pier.


    Im still very interested in your views on such matters and on this case in particular. Please let me know.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Hello Erasmus,



    although the enriched pier looks nice, your doubts are grave indeed.


    I wouldn´t fear overdetailing of one section of the model -I trust that you could put in the extra detail in the other sections too.


    But the piers really would move too close together, the optical impression would be considerably hambered.


    Looking forward to your next steps


    Zaphod

  • Today I completed the 17 piers. I had already noticed that not all of these parts are accurately sized.
    On many of them the sides are too small, both length - and widthwise (pic1).
    This error is beyond repair so I used Paintshop to stretch the images and I made a reprint of the piers.


    Pic2 and 3 show the current state of the model.


    I did not build the piers as closed boxes as the model suggests. This would make them difficult to assemble and, when assembled poorly, could result in tensions in the part, causing it to twist.
    I cut off the bottom side and put in two strips of card instead, giving the part the necessary stability whilst retaining the flexibility to join it later on with the river without leaving any gaps (pic4).


    Next parts in line are the two bridgeheads. First need to edit the sheets that hold these parts.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Servus Bruno,


    Good decision to keep just the texture of the piers.


    I does not match to the "spirit of this kind of models".


    Some times "less is more".


    greetings from Vienna, Herbert

  • Hallo Erasmus,
    Deine Brücke gefällt mir sehr gut. Gerade auch in diesem Maßstab.




    Mit freundlichen Grüßen


    modellschiff

                                                                                   Artikel 1 GG:

    Die Würde des Menschen ist unantastbar.

    Sie zu achten und zu schützen ist Verpflichtung aller staatlichen Gewalt



  • Hallo erasmus!°


    Es feut mich sehr, endlich wieder einmal einen Baubericht über ein Modell
    von Micromodels zu sehen.


    Ich bin ein großer LIebhaber dieser Winzllinge und stolz darauf,
    eine beachtliche Sammlung von Originalen zu besitzen.


    Grundsätzklich verbaue ich wie du nur Reprints oder von mir eingescannte Bogen.
    Die Originale sind mir einfach zu schade.


    Besonders schön sind auch die Modelle der Serie "Tore Londons"


    Dein Einverständnis vorausgetzt, kann ich hier später ja einmal
    ein paar Modelle zeigen.


    Gruß


    Adolf

    Es gibt nichts Gutes:
    außer man tut es!


    Erich Kästner


    Etiam si omnes - ego non

    Edited once, last by Adolf Pirling ().

  • An allen Kartonista,


    Danke für eure Interesse an meinem Bau.


    Adolf,


    Bitte zeige deine Micromodels! Wie vorher erwähnt war ich begeistert vom Westminster Abbey Micromodel. Ich freue mich auf einen Blick auf deine Winzlinge.


    Wie du wahrscheinlich gelesen hast habe ich wie du gescannt und ge-reprint (wird die Deutsche Sprache ähnlich verstümmelt wie die Niederländische?).
    Für ein befriedigendes Bauresultat habe ich aber zusätzlich die Teile bearbeiten müssen mit Paintshop weil die "Handwerkstil" des Modells, insbesondere bei diesen Kleinteile, direkt zu passungenauigkeiten führt (zumindestens bei mir). Wie sind da deine Erfahrungen beim Bau deiner Micromodels?


    Gruss,


    Bruno

    Infinite Diversity in Infinite Combinations

  • Hallo erasmus!


    Danke, dass ich deinen Baubericht hier einmal kurz stören darf.


    Die bisher von mir gebauten Modelle hatte eine relativ gute Passgenauigkeit.
    Größere, also Modelle mit sehr vielen kleineren Einzelteilen, habe ich bisher noch nicht gebaut.
    Bei Moorgate habe ich an mehreren Stellen kleine Klebelaschen montiert.
    Vom Originalbogen werden die Teile fast ausschließlich stumpf verklebt.


    Gruß


    Adolf

  • This thread has been a bit quite for a while. All time available for modelling was spent on editing the cards on the computer. This is far from finished (it does take a lot of time); this post is to show the envisaged improvements of these efforts by presenting house no.3 as an example.


    Pic.1 shows the results of the editing process. The required footprint of the house is copied from the destination location on the archway. The widths of the walls of house no.3 are modified to match this footprint.
    The upper house is the edited one, displayed transparently to show the auxiliary lines that support scoring and cutting. After editing it matches the size of the archway footprint.
    The original part (bottom of picture) seems to be too small.


    Pic.2 and 3 show the original part located on the archway. It matches the width of the bridge (as expected, see pic.1) but lengthwise it is too small. When other parts suffer the same flaw this may result in gaps between the houses.


    Pic.4 compares original and edited parts. The edited part is slightly longer and rectangular after assembly. The original part is skewed after assembly. The thick lines make it very difficult to cut and score parts this small with the required precision.


    Pic.5 and 6 show the edited part located on the archway. I think it is slightly too long; a matter of the right compensation for the carton fold offset.
    I also seem to have lost a bit of shading on the wall near the ridge of the roof. I want to keep this as it is essential to the atmosphere of the model.


    Next try should be ok, incl. roof, colours and shading.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Where to buy these models???


    I've heard that byou can by complete compilations on CD, legal scans, anybody know where!?!


    When you see a build like this you wnat to do it also...


    Very nice...

  • George,


    Follow the "Zeist bouwplaten" link on this forum.
    Once there, select "News, Site map" in the menu on the left.
    This page has info on micromodels.
    You can also mail the guy, he's quite prompt with his answers.


    Good luck!


    Bruno

    Infinite Diversity in Infinite Combinations

  • I have edited and printed the parts for one of the bridgeheads and for the adjoining 8 houses.
    This has taken a lot of time behind the screen, but once you start this theres no way back.
    One thing leads to another and in the end Ive marked all cuts and scores by auxiliary lines.


    I feel that joining the roofs to the walls with some overhang may enhance the atmosphere of the model.
    Ill cut roofs and walls from the sheet as separate parts and find out what amount of overhang looks nice while joining them. To do this I may need some extra material, so I have cloned the roofs of each house.


    I now get to pick up my cutter again and do some 3D-modelling. Its about time.


    Cheers,


    Bruno

  • One of the bridgeheads and the first few houses sitting on it are assembled - but not yet joined (pic1).


    The location of the middle house on the bridgehead (house 1) falls short of the edge of the bridgehead (pic3).
    This allows pinpoint joining of the last house in the row - no.8 - with the archway. The row of houses will extend from there. Working this way house no.1 can, in spite of tolerances in house sizes, be joined with the bridgehead without any overhang.


    An unwanted gap is left between the straight edge of the archway and the sloped edge of the bridgehead (pic2).
    In order to lose this gap I cut a hole in the bridgehead edge that fits the cross-section of the archway (pic3).


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • House 3 is the first to build that carries chimneys.


    I feared 170 g. paper (Canon MP-101) would deliver folds that look like canyons in relation to the size of the part. The depth of the scores also influences the size of the edges, making an orthogonal assembly somewhat of a lucky shot. I expected better results from 106 g. paper (Canon HR-101N).
    The result from the 170 g. paper is not as poor as I expected, but the 106g. paper does result in a cleaner assembly (pic. 1).


    There is another difference between the two paper types: the 170g. paper - designed for card modeling - soaks up the ink, whereas with the 106g. paper the ink seems to lie more on the surface.
    When scoring the 106g. paper the ink is more or less scratched off (pic. 2). Not necessarily a problem when scoring with a sharp cutter (the blade I used here was nearing its end of life) and when colouring the edges afterwards.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Servus Bruno,


    Stelle einemal einen Maßstabswürfel dazu.


    Damit man besser sieht in welcher Größe du baust.


    Ich sage: :respekt: :respekt: :respekt:


    Liebe Grüße, Herbert

  • After a short break (one week of holiday on the beautiful island of La Palma 8)) I have resumed building.
    Houses 4 and 5 have been added Herbert, thanks for the suggestion to add the cube to the picture.


    The spikes on the towers are made of 0.3 mm brass wire. The close up picture inflates dimensions and, although the spikes are not on scale (a 50 mm. diameter spike would require a 0.04 mm wire about 1/10 of the diameter of the wire used here and roughly the diameter of a human hair!), when viewing the model with the bare eye (specs are allowed) it looks quite ok to me.


    Cheers,


    Bruno

  • House 8 is a gate flanked by 2 towers.
    The model suggests to top the two towers with dome shaped pieces of wood into which a pin is inserted.


    I tried to shape a skewer by inserting it into a precision drill and then holding the end against a piece of sandpaper. This went half well, but the resulting piece of wood was so tiny that, when trying to insert a pin, it immediately split.


    I then tried to build the dome by stacking small discs of paper of decreasing diameter, made with a set of socket punches (got that idea from the ornaments on Micros Villa Braun model). Holes in the center allow the pin to pass through. Too small, cannot make the discs/holes align. The result would make even Gaudi roll over in his grave.


    I then tried a technique described by GlueMe. He uses it to make nozzles to the barrels of anti aircraft guns: apply a drop of (white) glue and shape it while it is drying. I only had to apply it and wait for it to dry.

  • House 8 has been quite a learning experience.


    Considering its a first attempt at trying a technique that is new to me Im happy with the result (while at the same time developing an increasing respect for GlueMes capabilities).


    This row of houses is complete. Ill now continue working my way up the bridge from the other side, starting with editing the parts on the computer.


    Regards,


    Bruno

  • Gents,


    Thanks for your appreciation and for your kind words.


    The latest addition to the model is "Traitors Gate":


    "and upon that bridge likewise existed "from time out of mind" a notable tower, which, if not so pleasing to the eye, was neverless one of London sights. It was called "Traitors' Gate," and upon its summit were long erected the bodiless remains of many a once proud warrior".


    They are there, four of them. The pale complexion needs no further explanation. After receiving their eyes (or eye sockets, who knows how long theyve been there) they looked a bit like aliens, so I decided to give them some hair as well. Can you spot the older guy who is growing bald? (nothing personal John ;))


    Cheers,


    Bruno

  • House 16 is another gatehouse opposite traitors gate. The combination of the two gates is very similar to the entrance to a medieval keep.


    The construction method of house 16 joins a number of semi-cylinders to a rectangular base; two ¾ cylinders to the edges and two ½ cylinders to the front (pic1).
    I had some serious doubts whether this construction method would produce the desired result.


    4 Such semi-cylinders of equal diameter are very difficult to build to begin with, leave alone their axes will line up in one plane once they are joined to the base.
    In addition to that, matching the diameters of the cylinders to the width of the base revealed that contrary to what the construction sketch shows there will be no gaps between the cylinders.


    This opens up possibilities for a different construction method: I built the part around a base of 4 full cylinders.
    Pic2 to 4 show the components, the assembled part and its location on the bridge.

  • Hallo erasmus,


    einfach ein Klasse Bau von dir, für mich währe sie zu winzig.


    Bitte mach weiter so.


    Grüße
    Ernst