Revenge / Shipyard / 1:96

  • OK - as you wish, Jim.


    The photo below shows the first layer of corrections. Is is placed only where it was needed and patches are made of several sublayers of newspaper scraps covered by larger piece where it was possible. Sanded finally.


    Just now, I'm thinking about second layer onto whole hull. But i should place the decks first, cut the "fine planking" and try if I have room (space) for it.


    Radek

  • 1. all windows in frames are a bit smaller than in covering pieces
    2. "nipples" on all high frames are useless (and it's quite difficult to cut these in my stage of building :) :) )

  • Outstanding, Radek! :)


    Thank you for the warning on the "nipples" in the framing...that will save a few folks some headaches when they try this model.


    Cheers!


    Jim

  • Next stage is "fine" planking. I have cut parts upward waterline.


    The "colour" upper parts (with round openings) fit sharp, becouse the uderlaying layer was made from one part.
    The only little problem is the poop deck - it was build "in air" without possibility of exact positioning.


    Brown parts with gunports fit worse...

  • The next thing is white underwaterline planking.


    The upper part is glued now and I hope these pieces will be late this evening or tommorow morning.


    Radek

  • when the regulus (to be vivian) arrives, i'm gonna mesure the wood deck area and see about useing real wood venere and the deck hatches on the stern will be wood and may use plastic to make the hatch frames and paint the frames with aluminum paint. yesterday i took a trip to monterey to get some ideas and for those of you building sailing ship models, best way to replicate the standing rigging (the black ropes) use regular white thread and paint it with enamel black model paint, satin is the best to replicate the satiny look of the tar and will also keep it from fraying and for the running rigging or the tan lines, use tanned cotton thread and use bees wax on it.

  • wood deck, hatches...


    I thought about it (see Victory project), but I have made decission finaly, that my Revenge should be paper (carton) ship, so it will be. (OK, rigging and tacklets no :) )


    May be, my next ship will be of wood completely (Longridge is inspiring :) )

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

    Edited once, last by Radek ().

  • @ Michael Urban: Have you finished The Victory project? (One ship from the three, at least?)
    If so, how did you do underwaterline - that means white - planking finishing (Scorpio posted some pictures, if I remember). Is it only common white color or something special?


    @ all: I have read somewhere in internet very usefull paper concerning white, copper or black underwater planking - how it was made on historical sailing ships. BUT I had to reinstal my computer a month before and I forgot to save internet favorities :(. So if anybody other have read this page and remember the URL, could you post it to me, please?


    And finally - another pictures

  • I should report a problem with piece nr. 145 (145a) - it is 2mm wider than shoud be.
    First I thought that it is my fault - that I made planking too slim and therefore there incurred a gap between the ship hull and the gallery deck - but when I compared it with another consequential pieces, the result is that nr. 145 should be about 2mm narrower.


    The picture below shows my solution - I have cut off two stripes on possitions of stern knees pieces.
    Another solution is to print another pieces nr. 145 and 145a, but I am on holliday and without access to good color printer. :)

  • Hi, Radek! :)


    I'd say your hull planking came out very well indeed!


    From what I recall, the underwater section (the white area) is left a slightly off white to represent a tallow coating ships used before copper was used, such as with HMS Victory. I don't recall the exact time period when coppering was first used, but I think this ship was one of the pre-coppering era ships.


    I have this ship and hope to build it sometime in the near future, so I really appreciate all the tips, expansive descriptions of problems and techniques you are treating us to here...thank you so very much! :]


    Looking forward to more!


    Cheers!


    Jim

  • Thanks a lot for your kind words.


    Another suggest: mark the positions of stern knees on nr. 145 - it is very difficult to place these parts right, becouse it must look good from every point of view. (not my case :()

  • Next stage of building stern gallery.


    Some notes:


    1. Cut first all pieces (sheeted-out red railing included) and compare lenghts of all parts.


    2. You should made decision if to joint pieces straight or to made chamfers (my case).


    3. Glue the gallery deck to hull first, then the railing. The knees after it!
    It was my fault that I have glued all knees and the deck is after gluing reiling pieces deformed.

  • =D> =D>


    Hallo Radek,


    its built so pefectly, that I mean, you´ve make it in a wooden material.


    Best wishes


    Hansi

    Die ersehnte Ruhe in der Freizeit hat ihre Tücken. Man könnte zum Nachdenken kommen.


    Im Bau
    Maly Modelarz - PzKpfw VI "Tiger" Ausf. H1
    - Immer noch nicht fertig - wird auch nie fertig

  • Thanks a lot for your kind words.


    I have an idea of building a wooden sailing ship in future. But the work on Revenge will take another half year (at least) and after it...

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Thanks Malo.



    I have found informations about colouring of the underwater part of hull finally. In Czech unfortunately :).


    The main idea is that the white colour was made from PbO (plumbum oxid) and should be "dirty white".


    But all models I have seen are bright white - my Revenge will be so!

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • My work in last days could be characterized like: Find five differences!


    I glued gunwale and railing parapets, decorative white strips.


    Next step will be doors, windows, ladders...

  • The rudder. Unfortunately this picture could not show hinges with "glue nails" (white dots on the white stripes on the white part of rudder :) ).
    The little wire hooks are prepared for rudder chains.

  • Thanks Raimund,


    but I had to admit that while rudder looks quite well, the connection between stern and side planking is terrible. That was my bug - I layed side planking first and the stern "mirror" pieces after it.


    The right sequence should be:
    1. all flat stern pieces
    2. side planking
    3. keel from stem to stern + stern post
    4. brown and white decorative stripes ... aarr timbers I should say :)


    Radek

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

  • Thanks Josef


    I have two versions in my mind: First - make only standing rigging, or second - make all.


    The standing rigging will be more difficult and must be made anytime. The main problem is the scale of the model combined with the material. I believe that it is impossible to cut over 200 triangular block strops (or deadeyes) in different sizes of paper and have guaranteed sufficient stiffness for all.
    So I am in contact with a guy having laser-cutter machine - he promised me to cut sample block strops in four different sizes from 2mm to 4mm. The problem is the price of hundreds pieces... He should let me know the next week.


    Another problem are ropes (and cables). I have finished my ropewalk machine, but it is quite useless, becouse I will need very thin ropes to fit in scale. :)


    If I make the sails, these will be of paper. First, I use paper wheresover it is possible, and second, on paper could be the royal heraldy printed directly.



    I am looking forward your build of this ship. You are very accurate modeller, so I am curious if your Revenge will have same problems with arranging in layers of all hull openings. (For me, it was quite tricky to build the gunwale from four or five layers and preserve the exact possitions of all gunports...)


    Radek

    Images

    • kladka.gif

    built/gebaut: ABC - Arizona, M20, LT40, Sd. Kfz. 251/1,D, Zarkov - Dauphin Virgin HEMS Air Ambulance
    current work/im Bau: Revenge 1588

    Edited once, last by Radek ().

  • Hi,
    a new picture of my (Sweet) Revenge :-).


    The railing with knees. If somebody will built any sailingship like this, I suggest not to use straight joint between (colored) gunwale parapet and railing balusters, but re-construct this part of ship. (Make the railing as a part of inner gunwale, for example.)


    Radek

  • Asking what I was doing last days? Holes. Hundreds of holes. 1208 holes exactly...


    (I considered alternative solution - to make gratings of wood. BUT, as I said previously, my ship should be of paper wherever possible :) )


    Radek

  • Thanks a lot, Jörg,


    The model is beatifull colored, becouse the original ship was beatifull colored. As all known ships of that age - Golden Hind, Mayflower,...


    The other problem is quallity of the model. I have attached photo of the original stern piece. (My model ship is build from copy - copies, becouse it is my first sailingship and the model is very bad documented. I had to crumple and rebuild some parts...) You can see quite bad quality of the heraldic on stern, so I attached the same royal symbol from a main sail template.

  • Hi Radek,
    This is a most enjoyable thread to read. Everything is spot on. This is a model that will bring you much pleasure when completed!
    John

    Edited once, last by John ().