Dear visitor, welcome to Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um Papiermodelle, Kartonmodellbau und Bastelbogen. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains in detail how this page works. To use all features of this page, you should consider registering. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

1

Thursday, September 7th 2006, 10:09pm

Haut-Koenigsbourg

The construction of Haut-Koenigsbourg has been well documented by Jens in the Construction section and superbly photographed by him in the Gallery. At first, I thought it presumptuous of me to begin a duplicate build. Indeed, Jens' model can not be surpassed.

However, after viewing the black and white construction photos in the book, I feel that a different approach could be taken with some of the construction processes. Hopefully, we will arrive at the same point - a model well worth the effort. Hopefully, like Jens, I will have a smile at the end of the build similar to the one shown in his avator.

John

Der Bau der Haut--Koenigsbourg ist bereits von Jens sehr gut in seinem Baubericht dokumentiert worden und in der Galerie hat er sehr schöne Photos gezeigt. Zuerst dachte ich, es wäre anmaßend von mir diesen Bau nochmal zu machen. Tatsächlich kann man das Modell von jens nicht besser machen.

Nachdem ich jedoch die schwarz-weißen Bau-Photos im Buch gesehen habe, hatte ich das Gefühl man könnte für den Bau nochmal eine andere Vorgehensweise wählen. Hoffentlich komme ich am Ende an derselben Stelle an wie Jens - ein Modell, welches den Aufwand Wert ist. Hoffentlich kann ich am Ende genau so lachen wie Jens auf seinem Avatar.

John

Oliver Weiß

Professional

  • "Oliver Weiß" is male

Posts: 1,272

Date of registration: Apr 8th 2005

Occupation: Software Engineer

  • Send private message

2

Friday, September 8th 2006, 3:30am

Yeah! Go, John! You're just cranking out the masterpieces, aren't ya?


Cheers,


Oliver
  • FERTIG & JETZT ZU HABEN: Schaufelradschlepper "Anglia", 1866
  • In Vorbereitung: Ein echter "Publikumsliebling"
  • Meine Modelle sind unter http://www.waldenmodels.com/ zu bekommen!

Jens

Professional

  • "Jens" is male

Posts: 487

Date of registration: Jun 15th 2004

Occupation: Kartograph

  • Send private message

3

Friday, September 8th 2006, 10:56am

Hello John,
thanks for your compliments. I would mind building a model that was built a few months before, too, but give it a go. Maybe you can discover other ways to get closer to a satisfying model without the hassles I had. Also you have made more shots and comments of every building step than I did, so it's worth following your report. I am going to read it with interest like every report you wrote.

Danke für die Komplimente. Ich würde auch nicht ein Modell bauen wollen, das schon vor Monaten gebaut wurde, aber mach es ruhig. Vielleicht kannst Du andere Wege entdecken, um eher ein befriedigendes Modell zu bekommen ohne all die Schwierigkeiten, die ich hatte. Außerdem machst Du immer mehr Bilder und Kommentare zu jedem Bau-Schritt als ich, also ist Dein Bericht verfolgenswert. Ich werde ihn mit Interesse lesen wie jeden anderen Bericht, den Du geschrieben hast.

Best regards from

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

4

Friday, September 8th 2006, 9:54pm

Thanks Oliver.
Hi Jens. I am pleased you are okay with me tackling this model on the heels of your work. What struck me was the similarity this French model has to the Betexa model of Pernstein Castle. In Pernstein, many of the parts were suspended in the air awaiting support from other parts. In this model, there are supports that run down to the base, but other parts span the supports like bridge structures. I am going to attempt building it from the ground up. More of that when I get some parts ready to group together.

The first major structure in this model is a substantial fortified tower. It is tapered. I could have turned it upside down and dropped a template disk in from the bottom to ensure roundness, but I wanted to try Leif's idea of drawing a circular disk into place in a fuselage part by means of two holes and a hooked tool. (Outlined in the Pierrefonds build.)

This first shot shows the tapered tower with the bottom disk in place.

Danke Oliver,
Hallo Jens. Es freut mich, daß Du kein Problem damit hast, wenn ich mich in deinen Fußstapfen an dieses Modell wage. Was mir auffiel war die Ähnlichkeit dieses französischen Modells mit dem Modell des Pernstein Castles von Betexa. Bei Pernstein hingen viele Teile in der Luft während sie auf Stützung durch andere Teile warteten. Bei diesem Modell gibt es viele Stützen die zum Boden reichen, aber andere Teile verbinden die Stützen wie Brücken. Ich werde versuchen es vom Boden aus zu bauen. Mehr dazu, wenn ich ein paar Teile zum zusammenstellen habe.

Das erste größere Teil bei diesem Modell ist ein beachtlicher befestigter Turm. Er ist kegelförmig. Ich hätte ihn umdrehen können und eine Schablonenscheibe von unten reinfallen lassen können, aber ich wollte mal Leif's Idee versuchen, eine Scheibe mittels zwei Löchern und einem Hakenwerkzeug an Ort und Stelle zu ziehen (Beschrieben im Pierrefonds Bau).

Dieses erste Bild zeigt den kegelförmigen Turm mit der Bodenplatte.
John has attached the following image:
  • firsttowerdy5.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

5

Friday, September 8th 2006, 9:59pm

And here is the shot of the top disk with two holes punched in it. The hook tool is a modified rug hooking tool. Because the tower is tapered inward as it rises, it was easy to draw the disk up with the tool engaged in the holes. The system works well.

Und hier das Bild der oberen Scheibe mit zwei ausgestanzten Löchern. Das Hakenwerkzeug ist ein modifiziertes Häkelwerkzeug. Weil der Turm sich nach oben verjüngt, ist es einfach die Scheibe mit dem in die Löcher eingeklemmten Werkzeug nach oben zu ziehen. Das funktioniert sehr gut.
John has attached the following image:
  • reinforcementhd1.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

6

Sunday, September 10th 2006, 4:35pm

The Grand Bastion

One of the buildings that sits atop this tower features face gable ends. In this picture you can see one of the gables and the strip of paper that will wrap up, over, around and back down the other side. I do not feel I have the skill to edge glue this strip properly. I don't put much faith in the little tabs. So I will attempt to make a template or armature that will form the gable to the proper thickness. Then I can wrap the paper strip over solid material.( I'm writing this as I think this one through... )




Jens

Professional

  • "Jens" is male

Posts: 487

Date of registration: Jun 15th 2004

Occupation: Kartograph

  • Send private message

7

Sunday, September 10th 2006, 8:43pm

Hello John,

this gable is indeed one of the more tricky parts of the castle, and just right at the beginning. I think making templates of the roundings and applying the strip onto them will get a better result, so give it a try. All the other parts down to the rocks will fit easily from then on.

Best regards from

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

8

Sunday, September 10th 2006, 10:01pm

Hi Jens.
Yes, a template should work. Here is the first one shaped out of 1/8 in. hardboard.

I would want to first score the bends where the strip of paper breaks around the solid template. However, in this case, you don't know where the bends will fall. I will assume that the wet glue will soften the paper strip enough that it can be tooled over the template gently as one proceeds. I'll start from the centre and work both ways.

We'll see...


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

9

Monday, September 11th 2006, 10:12pm

The strip went on quite well.


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

10

Tuesday, September 12th 2006, 4:14pm

Jens, you are right. This is a tricky model from the outset. In this picture, you can see the completed roof with the gable ends in place.

I have found that needle nosed pliers are quite helpful with these tight fits. Here, an access hole has been cut in the cone of the subroof so that the pliers can reach in and grab that little roof that closes the end of the terrace.

I have a question for you Jens. What is the significance of an exclamation mark on a fold line? I've never seen them before.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 12th 2006, 5:21pm)


Jens

Professional

  • "Jens" is male

Posts: 487

Date of registration: Jun 15th 2004

Occupation: Kartograph

  • Send private message

11

Wednesday, September 13th 2006, 7:52am

Quoted

What is the significance of an exclamation mark on a fold line?

Hello John, quite a nice gable. If you mean the exclamation mark on B16 (a wall) I think it just has to say "Don't forget to score this, too". The marks on B1 (the garden floor) are just there to give hints to the tiny edges you just have to pay attention for, nothing else. I haven't found any other exclamation marks on the rests of my second sheet, so I think the ones you mean seem to be just a little pretentious...
I see you don't want to enhance the roofs with the cut out skylights, like I did. This is interesting, I thought you'd do this, too...

Best regards from

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

12

Wednesday, September 13th 2006, 1:41pm

Thanks Jens. That also is how I read those exclamation marks.
John

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

13

Wednesday, September 13th 2006, 10:18pm

Plan of Attack

I mentioned earlier that some parts on this model are either suspended in air or bridge other parts. Here is the first attempt to extend supporting card down to the base. This wall bridges two towers. The 1mm card not only fills the gap, it runs up inside the wall to the machicolations above. Going up inside the walls may not be always possible, but at least lower sections will be plumb and firm.

Whether this reinforcement will make any difference to the fit of other outer parts such as ramparts remains to be seen.


This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 13th 2006, 10:20pm)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

14

Friday, September 15th 2006, 3:22am

Terrassen Garten

In front of the Grand Bastion is a high walled garden. Here is its substructure - built from the ground up. The brown card is the stiffener that was shipped in the model book. You can see the outer wall 'skin' ready to be swung into place.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 15th 2006, 4:55am)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

15

Friday, September 15th 2006, 3:24am

RE: Terrassen Garten

The wall...

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 15th 2006, 3:26am)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

16

Friday, September 15th 2006, 8:32pm

Hi Martin,
Thanks for sharing this thought with me. Being able to pass by on a bicycle would be a dream for me. The mountains sound beautiful.
Someday perhaps...
John

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

17

Friday, September 15th 2006, 9:00pm

In studying the little half timbered buildings that sit on the top of the garden walls, I have come to the conclusion that the way they are designed could lead to frustrations. However, one must realize that the card model designer can only work with the materials he has been given. Often his publisher does not give him the luxury of incorporating extra card of various thicknesses 'kit style' to enhance parts. Everything depends on paper and folds. (Schreiber does provide 1mm card for the reinforcement of critical platform parts on some models.)

At 1:400 folds on some tiny architectural parts can mean inaccuracies in sizing and parts that tend to be under tension. They can 'spring'. The classic case here with these little buildings is where one wall, the outer wall, folds down from the roof, then back under and then back up again! All within the space of 5 mm.

In my humble opinion, tabs sometimes can just get in the way of good clean work. I have decided to cut off the joining and return tabs on these buildings and build them up with card or other material. This will keep both inner and outer walls parallel and will lock the roof angles.

At least that's the plan...

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 16th 2006, 12:24am)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

18

Saturday, September 16th 2006, 12:25am

Thanks Martin.
Cheers...John

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

19

Wednesday, September 20th 2006, 7:02pm

To build up these walls and buildings atop them, two strips of MDF were ripped on a table saw equipped with a small fine toothed circular saw blade. The strips are 6 x 4.5 mm and 3 x 8.5 mm respectively.


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

20

Wednesday, September 20th 2006, 7:06pm

The walls snaked their way along the garden edge. The strips were measured and cut so that they were at least 2 mm shorter than each section of the wall. This meant that the angles at the ends of each section were free to mesh unhindered with the next joined part of the wall.


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

21

Wednesday, September 20th 2006, 7:11pm

Here we see a section of the wall on the left with the house reinforced.


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

22

Wednesday, September 20th 2006, 9:30pm

Finally, here is a section of this south wall section. I use the words buildings or houses for the structures above these walls. Actually they were called hoardings. At one time, wooden hoardings were temporarily built on top of battlements to protect the defenders.


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

23

Wednesday, September 20th 2006, 10:13pm

Hoardings became more functional with the passage of time. Building them on this model makes me think of similar structures on Wartburg Castle as seen here. Actually, Wartburg is very much like Haut-Koenigsbourg; long and narrow, with its main towers and buildings concentrated in the center.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 20th 2006, 10:20pm)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

24

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 2:23am

This model has been quite challenging so far. It definetely is not an entry level model for a novice card modeller.My appreciation for Jens' completed model grows daily!

Here is a view of the first section of the fortress.



John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

25

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 2:24am

...and a second view.


Oliver Weiß

Professional

  • "Oliver Weiß" is male

Posts: 1,272

Date of registration: Apr 8th 2005

Occupation: Software Engineer

  • Send private message

26

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 2:55am

Great Work, John!

It is an absolute pity that you're not posting these pictures to the Kartonbau.de server. Imageshack will delete them if they aren't viewed in a while, so this excellent thread will be lost to posterity. If you have trouble uploading I'll be happy to work with you to get this resolved!


Cheers,


Oliver
  • FERTIG & JETZT ZU HABEN: Schaufelradschlepper "Anglia", 1866
  • In Vorbereitung: Ein echter "Publikumsliebling"
  • Meine Modelle sind unter http://www.waldenmodels.com/ zu bekommen!

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Oliver Weiß" (Sep 21st 2006, 2:57am)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

27

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 3:23am

Hi Oliver,
I've been through this with Jan and Michael. I can not post to the server anything greater than 60kb. They gave me an exemption and allowed me to post to ImageShack on the Pierrefonds build. Then Jan took the images and placed them on the forum's server. That's a lot of work to ask Jan to repeat. I have not approached him about the images on this build.

Thanks for offering to help. It's just an unanswered question why my images will not upload to the forum's server. (over 60kb) We've tried everything.

John

Jens

Professional

  • "Jens" is male

Posts: 487

Date of registration: Jun 15th 2004

Occupation: Kartograph

  • Send private message

28

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 7:30am

Hello John,

the comparison with the Wartburg hoardings and the ones of Haut-Koenigsbourg is interesting: I have made this comparison, too, but due to the fact of different construction. Siegmund's Wartburg has hoardings constructed with four different parts: a base plate, the two walls and an extra roof, which made them easy to assemble and stable, too. The hoardings of Haut-Koenigsbourg roll themselves in like a "Q". The walls roll over to the roofs, the inner wall and a bottom strip. This is what could make these buildings a little unsteady. Fixing them in their interior might be indeed a help, but this would have meant a little of too much work for me, then. I was troubled enough with my self-enhanced roof dormers, I guess.
Fixing the outer walls right to the ground might help, too, but we don't know yet, how the other buildings will contribute to the whole castles contortion, especially the rocks and basement walls. Let's hope they will not be impedimental at a later stage.
You will see that the rocks will cause you enough trouble, especially the rock piece E8, which won't fit at all onto the wall, except with cutting it into two halfs (like some other pieces).
But so far it is a well done first step. The major building will surprise you with best fitting, although complicated uncoiling parts.

Best regards from

Jens

Professional

  • "Jens" is male

Posts: 487

Date of registration: Jun 15th 2004

Occupation: Kartograph

  • Send private message

29

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 7:37am

John, BTW:

don't you mark the lines on the back of some parts, like the floor ground on hoardiong B14? I haven't seen a line, which should be done across the marks outside, having the signs "o-- --o". They contribute to level accompanying floors and pieces. And L'Instant Durable has economized their printings by omitting the back printing of such guide lines, obviously...

Best regards from

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

30

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 12:29pm

Hi Jens,
Thanks for the heads up on what pitfalls await me. I hope I will not be dashed upon the rocks!

Yes, I mark the back sides for reference with a pencil. That's how I levelled the reinforced garden floor. Early on in card modelling, before I saw the light, I used my light box for parts but now it's just so much easier to do what was intended - slip the point of the knife into the center of the 'o' 's and joint the prick marks on the back. I know instruction illustrations show this technique, but I guess I just wanted to see the line. It doesn't increase accuracy at all. Realized that I could keep the work moving along without having to go downstairs to the darkroom. I was a bit slow on that one. Dumb! I don't mark back sides of wall tops that fold over on themselves. Never understood why that is necessary. Parts usually snuggle up under the 'shelf' created by the foldover.

Also, little prick marks on each side of the yellow tabs ensures an accurate scoring on the back.
John

Edit: Jen, now I understand what you meant! You were talking about lack of a reference line running along the wall where part B17 has been glued down. The reason no line appears here is that I was using the back edge of the blue foldup tab to align with the break line of the roof at the eave at the back. In retrospect, it might have been a good idea to draw the line anyway. But I was sure that the solid material would keep everything parallel and perpendicular. Very observant Jens.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 21st 2006, 2:13pm)


Jan Hascher

Moderator - DerTranslator

  • "Jan Hascher" is male

Posts: 6,038

Date of registration: Sep 23rd 2004

Occupation: Filtrierer

  • Send private message

31

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 12:47pm

Hi John,
I will transfer the images when I find some time. No problem, I have seen this allready. :D

Cheers
Jan
Jeder, der einen Post mit "Ich habe zwar keine Ahnung, aber..." beginnt, möge bitte den Absenden-Button ignorieren.

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

32

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 1:08pm

Thank you Jan.

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

33

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:40pm

A Tip: Attaching Horizontals to Vertical Walls

Following up on the discussion with Jens above about marking the back side of parts with a reference line, here's a tip that really helps keep anything you want to land on that line on that line.

Here is a wall section that will have a courtyard glued perpendicular to its back side half way up. Note that the top of this wall has been folded. This will be helpful when we have a look at the back side.
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 1.jpg

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 21st 2006, 9:55pm)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

34

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:45pm

Here's the back side. Card is used to create a shelf that will allow the courtyard to snuggle up under it. Since we are working from the top down, the card can rest against the top of the wall at the fold and extend down to the pencil line. The edges will be parallel.
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 2.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

35

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:48pm

Here's another view of the brown card attached to the wall. You can clearly see the shelf created by its thickness.
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 2A.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

36

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:49pm

Now the courtyard is introduced to the back side of the wall.
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 3.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

37

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:51pm

It fits in and up under the shelf.
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 4A.jpg

John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

38

Thursday, September 21st 2006, 9:53pm

After it's glued in place, other pieces of card lock its tabs and reinforce the lower portion of the wall.

One caveat. Reinforcing walls is great fun, but just make sure that the wall you reinforce doesn't have something hanging off of it! You've got a problem if you discover too late that there is another part waiting to be glued to the back side of your reinforced wall. Of course, if you are resourceful, there are ways around that... but it's better to look before you spray.
John
John has attached the following image:
  • Step 4C.jpg

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 21st 2006, 10:02pm)


John

Master

  • "John" is male
  • "John" started this thread

Posts: 2,681

Date of registration: Oct 4th 2005

Occupation: retired school teacher

  • Send private message

39

Saturday, September 23rd 2006, 1:54am

There are a lot of lovely details tucked into the inner spaces of this model. Here are some in a courtyard area.

I will probably be taking only a few of these detail shots. You will find excellent photos taken by Jens in the Architectural Construction Reports and Gallery. I would like to focus now on photographing the major areas and what effect building the walls down to the base will have on the accuracy of attaching the rocks, ramparts and paper base. The parts look rather daunting with their copious number of folds.
John
John has attached the following image:
  • innerdetailsbk8.jpg

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "John" (Sep 23rd 2006, 1:59am)


Oliver Weiß

Professional

  • "Oliver Weiß" is male

Posts: 1,272

Date of registration: Apr 8th 2005

Occupation: Software Engineer

  • Send private message

40

Saturday, September 23rd 2006, 2:12am

I tremendously enjoy this build, John - not only because of the great photography, but also because this is a great-looking castle. I'm so sorry I didn't visit it, nay I didn't even know about it! when I lived in Germany. Only a few hours away, to boot....
Looks like I'm going to have to buy the kit =)

Cheers,


Oliver
  • FERTIG & JETZT ZU HABEN: Schaufelradschlepper "Anglia", 1866
  • In Vorbereitung: Ein echter "Publikumsliebling"
  • Meine Modelle sind unter http://www.waldenmodels.com/ zu bekommen!

1 user apart from you is browsing this thread:

1 guests

Social bookmarks