[FERTIG] Gpm F-4e Phantom 1/33

Although I have not finished IJN battle ship Fuso build, all of a sudden I felt tempted to make airplane model.
I might have been infected by the virus flew from Canada.
Anyway, shipbuilding is a exhaustive work and I need some refleshment. I opted for GPM F-4E PHANTOM among my stock because this model has relatively small number of parts and suitable for refleshment I thought.
The model was published in 1999 so the quality might be different from present one.
Today made part of cokcpit. So far fit is good.
After finished this plane I can intercept the virus coming from Canada fly with Hornet
Hummm, oh no, these days virus might come across the Pacific ocean through optical cable and suddenly show up on PC screen saying hello with beaming smile and its the beginning of delightful modeling life :prost:

Oh my Buddha, I have started build report of F-4E casually without thinking consequences but reading you guys comments I feel the heat. I should have made it in advance on the sneak and if it turns into cream puff, start posting pretending as if I am making it on real time.

But the die is cast.

What should I do? Ah, I am lucky. Only four people knew that I am making F-4E. O.k. dont worry about me if it doesnt turn into cream puff, I could bunk off like puff of wind skipping over the bank puffing.

Thank you Henni. Why I was not aware of F-4E thread. It very helpful but the thread starter seems to stop posting about three months ago. I hope he resumes posting before I finish fore part of fuselage so that I can follow him.

Today I made parts of rear cockpit. I forgot to note in previous posting that as you can see the picture of the sheet, there are many number 3 and 4 parts. First digits were not printed and I had to identify them.

Cut out parts and peel off paper at the back side of mountain fold line and chamfer all the edges.
Shape each part before glueing them.
Made round shape parts, which are fixed on the head rest, from 0.5mm dia. brass rod and painted it with yellow lacquer.

Spent a lot of time to make only one section of fuselage because of fit.
I do not know what is the cause. I cut too small or...
Anyway, finally glued 3 layers of strip of paper around side of frame then filed them. Finally got a proper fit. Check it putting next skin and I believe what I have done must be correct..... I hope so.
If wrong... I do not want to think about it tonight.

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Original von Stephan Hintze
Hi Yu,

now i testet your method and i must say :yahoo: yeah ... thats really great and not difficult. Thanks for that hint. If i knew this before starting the T-22 I had better results - because the green paint i mixed doesn´t fit to the original green ....

best wishes, Stephan

Oh my wife.
Kiyomis my wife (expression between my friend and me for every thing is not fine because both of our wifes name is Kiyomi) I shouldnt have shown it.
And I have to apologize to paper manufacturer because it is unlikely that you consume a lot of paper by making holes on 9 papers out of 10.

I think your T-22 is very good.
If we can chamfer the edges with perfect triangle cross section, theoretically we do not need to paint the edges. I do not like to paint the edges because sometimes the paint run off onto printed surface and it ruin the surface(when you take close-up photos it stand out).
Also another advantage is that we can have sharp edge.
My opinion it that this technique is very effective for small parts that are put on deck of ships because they are visible and sharp edge gives good impression.
And by cutting off back side paper it becomes easy to fold each part.

Now you are member of the CETA (it stands for Cutting-Edge Technology Association)

Cut out parts for bottom of fuselage where missiles will be glued later then glue them.

Cut out frame but it was a little bit smaller so glue strip paper around then filed it until it fit to the skin.

Glue sections applying glue on one or two gluing tab at a time. When apply glue insert stick through the opening on frame.

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Original von Airgoon
Hi Yu,

Does it have anything to with the fact that your cutting mat is light grey and the rest of us have dark green ones...?
Or is it the smell of cherry blossoms or the jasmine tea...?
(Just kidding... )

Kind regards,
Norm

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Hi Norm,

How observant you are.
Jasmine tea does have nothing to do with it because I always take coffee
I think one of cause must be the color of light grey cutting mat as you pointed out. Please take a look at an attached photo.
I shoot the photo putting model in front of computer screen where sunset backdrop picture is shown. You can see reflecting red color of backdrop on the model.
Another cause must be luminosity. Back to aeons ago Western people migrated to northern hemisphere where sunshine duration is relatively short all through the year that gave people vulnerable to sunshine but beautiful blue, green and grey eyes.
Perhaps because of this European people seem to prefer dim lighting. I noticed this after living in Seattle for three months renting apartment. Brightness of lighting inside the apartment was darker than Japanese.
Have you ever taken a look at the photo taken from satellite orbiting the space? You can clearly see the outline of Japan with bright lighting in the night time. Japanese prefer bright lighting though they must cut it down to save fossil fuels.
In my room there are three pieces of fluorescent lights on the ceiling. One burnt out several months ago but still bright enough to make paper model and take photos showing the model better than actual one.

Anyway to cut a long story short, its my tactics to play viewer a trick by taking photos with making good use of lighting and backdrop like window dressing. Recently I found out lighting technique have sometimes dramatic effect on showing models better.

Quote

Original von Airgoon
If I may ask out of curiosity - what is the advantage of applying the glue for the sections one or two tabs at a time?

Kind regards,
Normgoon

Hi Norm, me again
Again you are observant and its a great question.
The reason why I glue tabs one by one is that I do want to have flat and smooth skin surface. I do not want to let skin surface of one section project compared to adjacent section. After applying glue, push tab with stick from inside holding outside skin with finger tip in order to press them to make smooth surface. Also carefully glueing them can avoid having gap between edges of sections.
Those works sometimes take long time. If I apply glue for all tabs, glue on some of tabs dry before starting those works.
However, in case of the models like Halinkis recent release, which have perfect fit, it might not be necessary to glue tabs one by one.

Kind regards,

I am not a mustard but wasabi.

Glueing tabs one by one I have managed to made up to nose.

Today eat wasabi again to make parts around nose.
Cut out machine gun cover and glue 0.5mm thick card board to straighten up the edges then glue one side. After the one side's glue dried apply glue with used knife blade and hold the parts until glue dries. While drying glue I make coffee with right hand because after I started card modeling my wife turns a cold shoulder on me so I have to do everything by myself.

Next is parts for airintake
Cut out the parts an chamfer the edges
Then assemble
I was busy dealing with bad fit air intake parts forgot to take picture during build

Managed to make up to here

Hi Stephan

Thanks a lot
Your suggestion is very instructive and sounds perfect
I will try when my wife is in a good mood. Not now.

I forgot to post report about machine gun
Cut out parts and chamfer the edges as usual then put it in the place
I did not make barrels because they are not visible after completion.

Quote

Original von Airgoon
Hi Yu,

And you're telling me I'm too fast...?!?!?!

Greetings,
Norm

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In my case no problem because I am making this model as refleshment. I must make this as quickly as possible but this model is not suitable for refleshment. It took longer than I expected.

Made one section around middle of fuselage but the shape did not fit to adjacent one so I had to remove the frame then glued next skin first.
Measure the width then glue strip of 0.5mm thick card board around the unfit frame and filed. I repeated the same procedure until the frame fit to the skin.

Finally glued the modified frame.

When insert frame into the skin we must not push it hard. It must be pushed as gently as pushing three-month old baby's pretty cheek. Otherwise frame extend edge of skin and it causes dent and bent on the surface.

Finally made tail of fuselage
cut out paper and chamfer the edges
After shaping it before gluing, applied glue for all joints
After applying glue, it soften the paper then push the skin from both outside and inside to shape it.

Fuselage skinning has been completed

Hi tom

Thanks to your thread I was able to make my model without thinking in one way and another.
Good luck in the architecture model contest.

Hi Peter

I have been waiting that great question.
It was my wife. My wife took those picture for me because she loves me very much that she sits beside me and takes picture for me

This week I was on the road and have no time to make model.
Week end I was buried in model building.
First glued thick paper to the backside of fuselage around arrest hook base then glued part.
Frames for the wings are 1mm thick card and so thick that it can not be folded properly. So cut it into pieces then glued them after chamfered all the edges.
Glued wheel well parts and glued skins.

Today's work

Quote

Original von Airgoon
Hi Yu,

Please tell your wife she takes good pictures!

Later,
Norm

Are you jealous of our happy life? :nono:

Quote

Original von Airgoon
Please let me publicly apologize. I was just trying to be polite... :rotwerd:

Norm

Nope, you do not need to apology
I was just ribbing
Umm or you did want to say that you are the world's happiest marriage?

Here's to the world's happiest couple :prost:

Kindest regards,

Made fuel tank and exhaust nozzles

Cut out head part of fuel tank then chamfer all edges so that adjacent surface of paper can be glued together without gaps.
Second step is to shape each strip of paper into half round shape

Shape the part before glueing then apply enough glue inside.

While glue is damp dry push each paper from outside and inside to smoothen surface

Exhaust nozzle is consited of 3 parts; outside, inside and bottom part which has circle shape. Originally, inside parts seems to be rounded up printed surface inside but I used it printed surface outside then painted reverse side light brown.

continuation

Today made vertical fin, horizontal tail, hook arrester and wheels.

Hi Dan,

Thank you
My memory of high school life was Beatles, Simon and Garfunkle, Sylvie Vartan.... etc. Oops, I am giving my age away.

I forgot to report that the wing tips' dihedral angle doesn't come 12 degrees if you make kit as it is. I cut red color marked part of wing tip side (light gray side) about 0.5 to 1.0mm to have proper dihedral.
I do not remember how much I cut it because I was cutting it little by little until the dihedral comes approx 12 degrees.

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Original von GreMir
If you don't mind sharing the info - what is this nice stand you used for several photos?
Looks almost like something custom made for this purpose...

Thanks Michael
Stand I used is extendable one
Leg length at the shortest position is about 6 inches and the longest about 12 inches.
I guess you will have hard time to find out this kind in the States where all legs are long:D

Made short legs

Shape all parts before glueing so that it facilitate glueing

Now Phantom becoms toddler