Borsig Bn2t / Modelik / 1/25

Well, yes, I'm back to trains and to Modelik. They have an amazing range of train subjects, most of them fairly recent and definitely interesting.
The Borsig Bn2t should keep me happy for quite a while. It has something close to 738 parts and I'm quite sure that it will need at least as many rivets...
Let's start with the usual, lo-resolution, pictures of the kit.

Thanks, Chris and Royaloakmin
I'm quite sure this is a gook kit. Modelik has progressed a lot in train subjects since the T2-71...
I also have the Freudenstein (and others ;)) waiting but opted for this one because it is a bit more colourful.
The work starts with the structure and, inevitably, the rivets.

The main structure is complete. It still needs a lot of parts with truckloads of rivets...

@ Royaloakmin - It depends. For the black rivets, I use black paper, usually with double thickness, and there is no need to paint. For the red and greenish rivets, as well as for all the bolts, I have to paint the edges. It is tedious but easy. Hopefully, todays pictures are revealing

@ John - that's what I call good humour
Well, let's go to the final riveting chapter. I mean, before the next one

There is something good about the wheels on this model: they are just 4
I added some red rectangles to cover the spokes. They are visible on the last pictures.

Hello Bruno,

In my view, train subjects lend themselves very well to be modelled in paper. I have some more Modeliks waiting and their newest train (Jupiter) is already firmly on my whish list
Well, time to assemble the parts and add the brakes. As usual, the 'wires' are made from rolled thin paper. It is easier to paint and much easier to glue...

Thanks, Dalibor
Today, I show the cylinders. They are quite small and they have a fair share of nuts and bolts...

Royaloakmin - What do you mean with commercial nuts and bolts? Im using the parts provided in the kit. In fact, for the smaller parts the kit has a bigger number than needed. This is good because cutting those small hexagons with the trusty knife is a little tricky

@ Royaloakmin - please, post the pictures. I'll be glad to see them
The engine is still operating ? For tourism?
The bolts glued (with white glue) to anther sheet of paper are reasonably sturdy. I guess they don't delaminate as easily as card
Well, moving on the upper part of the train...

Big thanks for the pictures, Royaloakmin
The engine looks so nice! There are some slight differences to the kit, namely the brighter green and the doors, but yes, it is the same and it is a beauty
The couplings look almost too big but I see they are well modelled as well.

The last of today's pictures deserves a comment because Modelik grossly exaggerated the track!!! Fortunately, I noticed the fact before assembly and solved it by cutting a wide strip on the base plate and on all the sleepers.
The fault is not problematic but it is very surprising because broadly the same parts appear on older Modelik train subjects!...

Some more pictures, with small and nice details...

Thanks a lot for your comments, John and Andy
Today's pictures show the second (and last!) big bunch of rivets. Most of them are black and, by using black card, I didn't have to paint the edges 8)

Assembling the cabin was a piece of cake. I didn't yet glue the back, in order to keep an easy access to the cabin. There is still a lot of plumbing to do!

For the plumbing, I used paper coated wire. It proved quite easy to bend, because the diameter is not too big.

Hello Bruno, nice to here from you
As a general rule, I fold after cutting half thickness, along the fold line and on the outside. The fold quality depends a lot on paper thickness and quality. Modelik's paper is a bit too thick for my taste but the quality is fair. Anyway, I always smooth out the folds by pressing them with a nail. Passing the nail before painting the edge is good because the paper gets less ink and do so more uniformly along the fold line.
Well, that is the rule but there are exceptions. When the fold angle is small, I sometimes don't half-cut first. A table edge serves to mark the fold. When I have double thickness paper, I can half-cut the inner sheet and completely cut the outer one. Another possibility is to half-cut the outer sheet and remove a tiny (something close to paper thickness) bit of the inner sheet. The objective is always the same: reduce the stress on the paper so that it doesn't tear apart in some irregular and unwanted pattern while folding. Be a friend of your paper and it will reward you
Well, on to the last construction pictures

@Yu - you know, perfection is just a matter of scale To find flaws, you just have to look closer
And that is it The model was very enjoyable to build and a big improvement over the T2-71 that I assembled back in 2005. It is so good that I plan to build another train in the near future!
Well, let's go to the pictures...

Some lateral views...

Some more...

And a couple of details, to finish with. For the statistics, the model has something close to 740 parts and I added exactly 1088 rivets 8)